Stuck octlink crank help - need to get at BB

[emma]

Damn, all was going so well but after a 10 mile ride with steep hills
the BB (I think) started to creak (swapped the sks new tourist pedals
which I thought were responsible for old knackered pedals and still get
hideous creak). Only trouble is I can't get the crank off the tighten
the BB on the drive side - its octalink. It seems stuck - I do have a
crankpuller on my lidl type toolkit but it doesnt seem to work. Any
hints or is it finally the the LBS for me?


Cheers,

Emma

[Jon Senior]

emma wrote:
> Damn, all was going so well but after a 10 mile ride with steep hills
> the BB (I think) started to creak (swapped the sks new tourist pedals
> which I thought were responsible for old knackered pedals and still get
> hideous creak). Only trouble is I can't get the crank off the tighten
> the BB on the drive side - its octalink. It seems stuck - I do have a
> crankpuller on my lidl type toolkit but it doesnt seem to work. Any
> hints or is it finally the the LBS for me?

Octalink BBs require a "special" crankpuller. The traditional ones just
disappear into the hole in the axle. The LBS will be able to sell you a
suitable tool, but the other option (If they're friendly enough) is to
get them to remove it, then fit a pair of self-extracting crank bolts.
That way you won't need the crank puller.

Jon

[Call me Bob]

On 12 Jul 2005 15:12:38 -0700, "emma" > wrote:

>Damn, all was going so well but after a 10 mile ride with steep hills
>the BB (I think) started to creak (swapped the sks new tourist pedals
>which I thought were responsible for old knackered pedals and still get
>hideous creak). Only trouble is I can't get the crank off the tighten
>the BB on the drive side - its octalink. It seems stuck - I do have a
>crankpuller on my lidl type toolkit but it doesnt seem to work. Any
>hints or is it finally the the LBS for me?

If you've got an octalink crankset, there's a good chance it came with
self extracting bolts. If so, removal is simply a matter of undoing
the crank bolt with an 8mm hex driver. You will feel the bolt slacken
right off, then quickly begin to tighten up again and become very
stiff. This resistance is normal and is just the bolt beginning to
force the crank arm from the BB spindle. You can safely give it some
welly if it needs it.

Both crank bolts have regular threads, so to undo them you will be
turning anti-clockwise.

If you don't have self extracting bolts, then you should (with some
care) be able to use your Lidl crank extractor. The problem you'll
have is that the Octalink BB spindle is hollow, so the plunger part of
the tool has nothing to brace against. See photo, helpfully provided
by Sheldon:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#octalink

You'll need to find a washer of the right size. It needs to just fit
inside the hollow of the crank arm, so that it can sit flush against
the end of the BB spindle, so the extractor plunger can push against
it.

You must ensure that the washer is not small enough to fall into the
end of the BB spindle where it will damage the thread. Position it
carefully so that it won't damage the thread on the inside of the
crank arm. The washer should also be strong enough to take the force
required to pull the arm from the spindle, if it deforms under
pressure you'll have a pig of a job getting it out.

If that goes okay and you are tightening the BB in the frame, it would
be best to slacken off the left hand side first, then re-do the right
hand side, then finally tighten left hand ring again.. Don't forget
about the left hand thread, on the drive side of the shell.

Greasing the threads and shell faces can help prevent creaks and
groans.

Post again if I've explained badly and you need clarification on
something or other.


"Bob"
--

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to a legal defence fund but only if 10,000 other people will
also make this same pledge." Phil Booth, NO2ID

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Email address is spam trapped, to reply directly remove the beverage.

[emma]

In an amazing piece of syncronicity I have discovered that a 1 euro
cent coin is a perfect fit instead of a washer, and futhermore doesnt
get stuck in the BB even when deformed slightly by the pressure. The
lidl tool then works perfectly, as long as you go gently. Many thanks
to bob for a trip saved and faith and BB restored :)

[Call me Bob]

On 13 Jul 2005 02:45:45 -0700, "emma" > wrote:

>In an amazing piece of syncronicity I have discovered that a 1 euro
>cent coin is a perfect fit instead of a washer, and futhermore doesnt
>get stuck in the BB even when deformed slightly by the pressure. The
>lidl tool then works perfectly, as long as you go gently. Many thanks
>to bob for a trip saved and faith and BB restored :)

Hoorah for the single currency!! :)


"Bob"
--

"I will refuse to register for an ID card and will donate £10
to a legal defence fund but only if 10,000 other people will
also make this same pledge." Phil Booth, NO2ID

Join the Pledge !!

http://www.pledgebank.com/refuse

http://www.pledgebank.com/faq


Email address is spam trapped, to reply directly remove the beverage.

[Dave Larrington]

Call me Bob wrote:
> On 13 Jul 2005 02:45:45 -0700, "emma" > wrote:
>
>> In an amazing piece of syncronicity I have discovered that a 1 euro
>> cent coin is a perfect fit instead of a washer, and futhermore doesnt
>> get stuck in the BB even when deformed slightly by the pressure. The
>> lidl tool then works perfectly, as long as you go gently. Many thanks
>> to bob for a trip saved and faith and BB restored :)
>
> Hoorah for the single currency!! :)

Don't try this with a BRITONS' penny, though, as they are made from cheese
and will deform horribly and not cause one's crank to come off.

Do not ask me how I know this :-(

--
Dave Larrington - <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/>
My only hope in life is to die before I get my comeuppence.