Cable Lugs

[Gags]

I mentioned in a previous post that I scored a Cecil Walker 853 Reynolds
frame that has some rust on it and I am going to get it repainted.
Basically, the rust is around the two cable lugs on the top tube that are
for the rear brake cable (one front, one rear). They are going to have to
be removed from the frame and replaced and so I am after some advice.

I was initially thinking of having no lugs at all but now I am considering
getting them replace with the type of lugs used to route hydro
cables.....these are basically a cradle that you can then slip a small cable
tie into. I would then run a brake cable that has an outer sheath along the
entire length of the cable. I see the advantage of this being that it would
reduce the amount of water that could get in the cable and so I wouldn't
have to clean the cable as often.

Is there any reason that brake cables are run with the bare section of cable
between the lugs on the top tube or is it purely a convenience/historical
thing?? I know that all of the weight weenies are currently taking deep
breaths at the thought of that extra 45cm or so of cable outer so I might
have to get the painter to put on an extra thin layer of paint to make up
the difference!!

So what's in this year......full length cable outers or normal lugs with
exposed section???

I wait with bated breath!!!

Gags

[SteveA]

Gags Wrote:
> I mentioned in a previous post that I scored a Cecil Walker 853 Reynold
> frame that has some rust on it and I am going to get it repainted
> Basically, the rust is around the two cable lugs on the top tube tha
> ar
> for the rear brake cable (one front, one rear). They are going to hav
> t
> be removed from the frame and replaced and so I am after some advice
>
> I was initially thinking of having no lugs at all but now I a
> considerin
> getting them replace with the type of lugs used to route hydr
> cables.....these are basically a cradle that you can then slip a smal
> cabl
> tie into. I would then run a brake cable that has an outer sheath alon
> th
> entire length of the cable. I see the advantage of this being that i
> woul
> reduce the amount of water that could get in the cable and so
> wouldn'
> have to clean the cable as often
>
> Is there any reason that brake cables are run with the bare section o
> cabl
> between the lugs on the top tube or is it purely
> convenience/historica
> thing?? I know that all of the weight weenies are currently taking dee
> breaths at the thought of that extra 45cm or so of cable outer so
> migh
> have to get the painter to put on an extra thin layer of paint to mak
> u
> the difference!
>
> So what's in this year......full length cable outers or normal lug
> wit
> exposed section??
>
> I wait with bated breath!!
>
> Gags
My steel tourer from 1984 runs the rear brake along the top of the to
tube through 2 lugs. Has, and always has had, outer complete, unbroke
from the lever to the caliper.

Steve

--
SteveA

[Skewer]

Gags wrote:
>
<snipped for brevity>
> Is there any reason that brake cables are run with the bare section of cable
> between the lugs on the top tube or is it purely a convenience/historical
> thing?? I know that all of the weight weenies are currently taking deep
> breaths at the thought of that extra 45cm or so of cable outer so I might
> have to get the painter to put on an extra thin layer of paint to make up
> the difference!!

My understanding was that less cable sheath = less total cable drag which
improves shifting and reduces braking effort.
This was the marketing spiel behind a few Teflon cable sheath/liner kits.

Sheldon may help.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html
>
> So what's in this year......full length cable outers or normal lugs with
> exposed section???
>
> I wait with bated breath!!!
>
> Gags
>

Skewer

[flyingdutch]

only disadvantage i can see to this is (and its a 'maybe') th weight o
said cable housing sagging down on cable? Nah, that sounds silly now
have read that...
All tourers (well good ones) inc my burgundy Bianchi tourer and mtb
have em along the top, dont they?

why not dril l2 holes in the toptube and go internal? :

--
flyingdutch

[eddiec]

The other option if you're worried about the risk of cable friction o
sag on the cable for those 'otherwise naked' cable runs would b
something like this:

http://www.sram.com/en/avid/cablesystems/fullmetaljacket/

Officially designed for cable disc use, but i'm sure it could meet you
needs... Of course you wouldn't want to ding the housing, which migh
make it a high worry-factor item

--
eddiec

[aeek]

flyingdutch Wrote:
>
> why not drill 2 holes in the toptube and go internal? :D

trade cable rust for frame rust

--
aeek

[suzyj]

Gags wrote:

> Basically, the rust is around the two cable lugs on the
> top tube that are for the rear brake cable (one front, one rear).
> They are going to have to be removed from the frame and
> replaced and so I am after some advice.

Must be some impressive rust to trash the braze-ons. Be careful tha
it hasn't destroyed the top tube as well, as 853 top tubes are usuall
only 0.4mm thick. Replacing the top tube is a fairly big job.

> I was initially thinking of having no lugs at all but now I am
> considering getting them replace with the type of lugs used
> to route hydro cables.....these are basically a cradle that you
> can then slip a small cable tie into.

There are braze-ons that simply encircle the cable, so you can run
full length of cable outer along the top tube. Have a look a
http://www.framebuilding.com/Braze-ons.htm for some options.

No matter what you do, these braze-ons attract rust. One way t
minimise this is to put them on the top of the tube, so that they don'
collect so much sweat.

I use a pair of the ART110 braze-ons at about the 8-o'clock position o
the tube. That's probably very similar to what your frame has now.
find that despite the potential for rust that having the braze-ons her
introduces, it's a convenient spot for them. I don't like having th
cable on top of the tube, as I often rest my ample bottom on the to
tube at traffic lights. Having them at the 8-o'clock position puts th
cable out of the way.

I'd recommend against running the cable outer along the top tube. Al
that cable outer just traps sweat against the top tube, which may mak
it rust quicker. In addition, it'll increase the force needed for th
rear brake.

Best of luck,

Suz

--
suzyj