Headset removal/install

[jp_nyc]

I'm wondering if it would be worth it for me to invest in headset tools
so I can finally do all work on my bikes. I guess I'm the one to answer
that.

My quesion is, what tools will I need to do all headset work? I checked
the Park website, and this is what I came up with:

1. Head cup removal tool (RT-1)
2. Crown race puller (CRP-1)
3. Bearing press (HHP-2)
4. Crown race setting tool (CRS-1)

The Park website also mentions a measuring caliper. I'm not sure what
that is, or what I would need it for.

Hammer, hex wrenches, grease, etc I have. Am I missing something? Some
of these tools are pretty expensive. I'm open to alternative
suggestions, or tools I might do without.

Thanks.

[Mike Krueger]

jp_nyc wrote:
> I'm wondering if it would be worth it for me to invest in headset tools
> so I can finally do all work on my bikes. I guess I'm the one to answer
> that.
>
> My quesion is, what tools will I need to do all headset work? I checked
> the Park website, and this is what I came up with:
>
> 1. Head cup removal tool (RT-1)
> 2. Crown race puller (CRP-1)
> 3. Bearing press (HHP-2)
> 4. Crown race setting tool (CRS-1)
>
> The Park website also mentions a measuring caliper. I'm not sure what
> that is, or what I would need it for.
>
> Hammer, hex wrenches, grease, etc I have. Am I missing something? Some
> of these tools are pretty expensive. I'm open to alternative
> suggestions, or tools I might do without.

The obvious alternative is to pay your LBS a few bucks to do this for
you, assuming they have the expertise to do it properly. A quality
headset, like a Chris King, should last the lifetime of a frameset.
Buying all the tools to perform what is essentially a one-time
operation is not cost effective, IMO.

[John Forrest Tomlinson]

On 26 Mar 2006 12:01:13 -0800, "jp_nyc" > wrote:


>2. Crown race puller (CRP-1)
> Some of these tools are pretty expensive.
> I'm open to alternative

If you're not planning on re-using the crown race, a drift punch and
hammer work OK on a lot of forks (all?). Sometimes you probably could
even re-use the race after removing it in this way.

JT

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[Nate Knutson]

jp_nyc wrote:
> I'm wondering if it would be worth it for me to invest in headset tools
> so I can finally do all work on my bikes. I guess I'm the one to answer
> that.
>
> My quesion is, what tools will I need to do all headset work? I checked
> the Park website, and this is what I came up with:
>
> 1. Head cup removal tool (RT-1)
> 2. Crown race puller (CRP-1)
> 3. Bearing press (HHP-2)
> 4. Crown race setting tool (CRS-1)
>
> The Park website also mentions a measuring caliper. I'm not sure what
> that is, or what I would need it for.
>
> Hammer, hex wrenches, grease, etc I have. Am I missing something? Some
> of these tools are pretty expensive. I'm open to alternative
> suggestions, or tools I might do without.
>
> Thanks.

Calipers ("measuring caliper" is a vague term, they're talking about a
vernier caliper, sometimes called a micrometer, but most commonly just
called calipers) are the most commonly used precision measuring tool
when it comes to bikes. Google images for vernier caliper. With
headsets, the most obvious way it's relevant is for checking
compatibilities, and they're also useful to see what something actually
measures in spite of what it's trying for. There are plenty of
measuring jobs where they're not necessary or not strictly necessary,
but they're definitely the best when seeing if a headtube is 30 or
30.2, or a crown race is 26.4 or 27, etc. Really calipers come into
play all the time and are worth having if you're into working on bikes.

There's quite a few other tools to add to the list if you want to do
*everything* yourself. The biggest question marks are the cutting tools
(headtube reamer facer/reamer, and crown race mill to a lesser extent),
which are very expensive. I'm not sure what the civilian rate is on
these but it would take quite a few uses out of them to have it make
more sense to buy them than have a shop do it. How necessary they are
is contentious and you'll hear different things, especially from the
wood-blocks'n'hammers contigent, but basically at least the
reamer/facer is necessary if you want to be able to install a headset
and know it's as good as it can be, and some frames you'll meet might
have actual problems with head tube facing, and sometimes you might
want to put a currently available ISO headset in a JIS frame (there's
not a lot of availability for JIS headsets), and nice new frames really
should have their headtubes faced, etc. There's plenty of situations
where just popping in the cups is fine, but if I'm messing with
someone's headset I always want to have access to these tools if need
be.

For doing overhauls on headsets that you know aren't having problems
with facing, you don't need these, nor do you need any of the cup/race
installation/removal tools.

For threaded headsets you'd also need headset wrenches, which come in
many sizes with 32 and 36 the most common.

[Phil, Squid-in-Training]

Nate Knutson wrote:
> jp_nyc wrote:
>> I'm wondering if it would be worth it for me to invest in headset
>> tools so I can finally do all work on my bikes. I guess I'm the one
>> to answer that.
>>
>> My quesion is, what tools will I need to do all headset work? I
>> checked the Park website, and this is what I came up with:
>>
>> 1. Head cup removal tool (RT-1)
>> 2. Crown race puller (CRP-1)
>> 3. Bearing press (HHP-2)
>> 4. Crown race setting tool (CRS-1)
>>
>> The Park website also mentions a measuring caliper. I'm not sure what
>> that is, or what I would need it for.
>>
>> Hammer, hex wrenches, grease, etc I have. Am I missing something?
>> Some of these tools are pretty expensive. I'm open to alternative
>> suggestions, or tools I might do without.
>>
>> Thanks.
>
> Calipers ("measuring caliper" is a vague term, they're talking about a
> vernier caliper, sometimes called a micrometer, but most commonly just
> called calipers) are the most commonly used precision measuring tool
> when it comes to bikes. Google images for vernier caliper.

To the OP:
Verniers are the best when it comes to bikes. Verniers can be mistreated
pretty heavily before they don't function correctly. Dial calipers can have
grungy gears and condensation in the dial, etc. Digital calipers are not
only generally junk, they're friggin electronic! Since when did rulers need
batteries?

Unless you have a visual impairment, vernier calipers are the only way to go
unless you're OCD and can keep your stuff in order.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

[Pete Biggs]

jp_nyc wrote:

> I'm open to alternative
> suggestions, or tools I might do without.

*Cyclus* headset tools are professional-quality and cheaper than Park's.
The head cup press and remover are most handy and a joy to use compared
with bodging without the proper tools. Even if no money is saved, it is
convenient not to have to wait or leave your bike at the shop to get a
headset fitted, and just satisfying to DIY (and to know that you could DIY
whenever necessary), like with everything else on the bike.

Not quite so difficult or inconvenient to deal with forks, so crown race
remover and setter could be left until another time if the budget is
tight.

~PB

[Donald Gillies]

So, last year I invested in an $80 set of tools (cyclus from BC /
renaissance cycles / banana_brain on ebay) to do all the headset work.
I have 20 bikes so it was worth my while.

Now, I can put the cool tool down a head tube and give it three whacks
and out pops the lower bearing cup, unharmed.

I _don't_ have a crown race remover - i still need to use a
screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape and gentle tapping for that.

A few days ago I pressed a headset back into my trek 500 frame. It
was so easy that I let my kids do it. When I got done, i reflected on
whether it was really worth the $80 when i could have down the same
thing for about $12 (long lag bolt, lots of washers, two nuts, and my
giant crescent wrench.)

I haven't had the opportunity to use the crown race installer
(basically the cup popping tool fits into a giant sheath that can fit
down over a steerer tube and tap on all sides of a crown race at
once, as long as the steerer isn't too big - 25" may be the limit..)

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

[Peter Cole]

jp_nyc wrote:
> I'm wondering if it would be worth it for me to invest in headset tools
> so I can finally do all work on my bikes. I guess I'm the one to answer
> that.
>
> My quesion is, what tools will I need to do all headset work? I checked
> the Park website, and this is what I came up with:
>
> 1. Head cup removal tool (RT-1)
> 2. Crown race puller (CRP-1)
> 3. Bearing press (HHP-2)
> 4. Crown race setting tool (CRS-1)
>
> The Park website also mentions a measuring caliper. I'm not sure what
> that is, or what I would need it for.
>
> Hammer, hex wrenches, grease, etc I have. Am I missing something? Some
> of these tools are pretty expensive. I'm open to alternative
> suggestions, or tools I might do without.

I've done several headset/fork installations on new frames and
replacements/swaps on old ones. I don't use tools other than basic hand
tools. No problems yet.

[Road Man]

Peter, what basic tools do you use to install a crown race? A friend
and I are puzzling over this right now.

Ken

"Peter Cole" > wrote in message
. ..
> jp_nyc wrote:
>> I'm wondering if it would be worth it for me to invest in headset
>> tools
>> so I can finally do all work on my bikes. I guess I'm the one to
>> answer
>> that.
>>
>> My quesion is, what tools will I need to do all headset work? I
>> checked
>> the Park website, and this is what I came up with:
>>
>> 1. Head cup removal tool (RT-1)
>> 2. Crown race puller (CRP-1)
>> 3. Bearing press (HHP-2)
>> 4. Crown race setting tool (CRS-1)
>>
>> The Park website also mentions a measuring caliper. I'm not sure
>> what
>> that is, or what I would need it for.
>>
>> Hammer, hex wrenches, grease, etc I have. Am I missing something?
>> Some
>> of these tools are pretty expensive. I'm open to alternative
>> suggestions, or tools I might do without.
>
> I've done several headset/fork installations on new frames and
> replacements/swaps on old ones. I don't use tools other than basic
> hand tools. No problems yet.

[John Forrest Tomlinson]

On 27 Mar 2006 00:45:15 -0800, (Donald Gillies)
wrote:

>A few days ago I pressed a headset back into my trek 500 frame. It
>was so easy that I let my kids do it. When I got done, i reflected on
>whether it was really worth the $80 when i could have down the same
>thing for about $12 (long lag bolt, lots of washers, two nuts, and my
>giant crescent wrench.

Bike Nashbar made a tool like the long bolt setup you describe and
sold it for about $20 for awhile -- worked fine for me. But I
recently got a bike-specific press. Haven't used it yet so I'm not
sure of any differences.

JT

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[John Forrest Tomlinson]

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 06:59:34 -0500, "Road Man"
> wrote:

>Peter, what basic tools do you use to install a crown race? A friend
>and I are puzzling over this right now.
>

A pipe of the proper size will work.

I'm curious about what basic hand tools are used to remove the cups
from the head tube.

JT


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[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

jp_nyc wrote:
> I'm wondering if it would be worth it for me to invest in headset tools
> so I can finally do all work on my bikes. I guess I'm the one to answer
> that.
>
> My quesion is, what tools will I need to do all headset work? I checked
> the Park website, and this is what I came up with:
>
> 1. Head cup removal tool (RT-1)
> 2. Crown race puller (CRP-1)
> 3. Bearing press (HHP-2)
> 4. Crown race setting tool (CRS-1)
>
> The Park website also mentions a measuring caliper. I'm not sure what
> that is, or what I would need it for.
>
> Hammer, hex wrenches, grease, etc I have. Am I missing something? Some
> of these tools are pretty expensive. I'm open to alternative
> suggestions, or tools I might do without.
>
> Thanks.

Specialty bicycle tools, even the Park ones(some are much more
expensive), can be expensive but if you want to have a bike shop in
your garage, so you can do any work, then get them. Probably don't
bneed the CRP-1 tho, if the race is steel, you can tap it off with a
punch. But if you do get it, need a vice to hold it.

[John Forrest Tomlinson]

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 13:11:40 GMT, Bob > wrote:

>On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 07:47:38 -0500, John Forrest Tomlinson
> wrote:
>
>>>
>>
>>A pipe of the proper size will work.
>>
>>I'm curious about what basic hand tools are used to remove the cups
>>from the head tube.
>
>A pipe of the proper size will work :-)
>
>I use a soft round pipe, about 1" in diameter, with a flat edge.
>Gently tap around the edges with a light hammer slowly moving the cups
>down. The pipe should be softer than whatever the cups are made of.
>For alloy cups, a piece of hardwood will do it.

I don't understand. Is the pipe relatively small and are you sort of
tapping the pipe at an angle -- that is not parallel to the head tube?

JT

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[Mike Reed]

John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
> If you're not planning on re-using the crown race, a drift punch and
> hammer work OK on a lot of forks (all?). Sometimes you probably could
> even re-use the race after removing it in this way.

I've been getting by for 15 years doing it this way. I've never damaged
a headset. Of course, in that time, I've probably only
installed/removed 10 headsets -- not a high wear item.

I just get a really big 3/8" slotted screwdriver and tap it with a
rubber mallet. For the frame races, I install them by holding a small
section of scrap 1x4 pine flat against the race, and gently tap it with
a rubber mallet.

One disclaimer is that all my bikes are steel. Some aluminum steerers
though (no problems with those).

-Mike

[Nate Knutson]

And also, a lot of your repliers are overlooking that some fork/race
combinations (suspension forks in probably nearly all examples) gives
you zero overhang of the race for a punch.

[Michael Press]

In article
om>,
"Mike Reed" > wrote:

> John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
> > If you're not planning on re-using the crown race, a drift punch and
> > hammer work OK on a lot of forks (all?). Sometimes you probably could
> > even re-use the race after removing it in this way.
>
> I've been getting by for 15 years doing it this way. I've never damaged
> a headset. Of course, in that time, I've probably only
> installed/removed 10 headsets -- not a high wear item.
>
> I just get a really big 3/8" slotted screwdriver and tap it with a
> rubber mallet. For the frame races, I install them by holding a small
> section of scrap 1x4 pine flat against the race, and gently tap it with
> a rubber mallet.
>
> One disclaimer is that all my bikes are steel. Some aluminum steerers
> though (no problems with those).

Nobody has mentioned dead blow hammers and mallets. First
time I swung it I said `Where have you been all my life?'
Tailor made for persuading precision parts. Here is a
commercial site with a cut away picture

<http://www.wihatools.com/802serie.htm>

--
Michael Press

[Mike Reed]

Michael Press wrote:
> Nobody has mentioned dead blow hammers and mallets. First
> time I swung it I said `Where have you been all my life?'
> Tailor made for persuading precision parts. Here is a
> commercial site with a cut away picture

I've been meaning to pick one of those up for a looong time. I still
have some allowance left this month...

[A Muzi]

>>jp_nyc wrote:
>>>I'm wondering if it would be worth it for me to invest in headset
>>>tools
-snip-

> "Peter Cole" > wrote
>>I've done several headset/fork installations on new frames and
>>replacements/swaps on old ones. I don't use tools other than basic
>>hand tools. No problems yet.

Road Man wrote:
> Peter, what basic tools do you use to install a crown
> race? A friend
> and I are puzzling over this right now.

A piece of pipe. It can have a Campagnolo logo, a Bringheli
sticker, a Var bronze liner or it can just be a foot of
water pipe from a hardware store.
For aluminum seats, use the proprietary adapter or a piece
of scrap headset or similar to avoid gouging the surface.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[A Muzi]

> On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 06:59:34 -0500, "Road Man"
> > wrote:
>>Peter, what basic tools do you use to install a crown
race? A friend
>>and I are puzzling over this right now.

John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
> A pipe of the proper size will work.
> I'm curious about what basic hand tools are used to remove the cups
> from the head tube.

Punch and a hammer?

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[John Forrest Tomlinson]

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 13:45:14 GMT, Bob > wrote:

>
>The pipe is reactively large so that the curve of the pipe contacts a
>larger amount of the cup inner lip.

Cool. Never thought of that.

JT

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[Phil, Squid-in-Training]

John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
> On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 06:59:34 -0500, "Road Man"
> > wrote:
>
>> Peter, what basic tools do you use to install a crown race? A friend
>> and I are puzzling over this right now.
>>
>
> A pipe of the proper size will work.
>
> I'm curious about what basic hand tools are used to remove the cups
> from the head tube.

Take some smallish steel tubing about 10 inches long, cut it down lengthwise
about 4 inches, turn the blade around the axis of the tube 90 degrees, and
then cut it through lengthwise 4 inches, pull the tongs you've just made
outwards a bit until they plastically deform, and you've just made yourself
a Park RT-1.

Close off the other end with a star nut and top cap, or plug it up somehow
so you can more easily whack it.

Here's what an RT-1 looks like:
http://www.parktool.com/images/products/productimages/spr_RT-1_2005729_84414.jpg

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

[A Muzi]

>>On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 07:47:38 -0500, John Forrest Tomlinson
> wrote:
>>>I'm curious about what basic hand tools are used to remove the cups
>>>from the head tube.

Bob > wrote:
>>A pipe of the proper size will work :-)
>>I use a soft round pipe, about 1" in diameter, with a flat edge.
>>Gently tap around the edges with a light hammer slowly moving the cups
>>down. The pipe should be softer than whatever the cups are made of.
>>For alloy cups, a piece of hardwood will do it.

John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
> I don't understand. Is the pipe relatively small and are you sort of
> tapping the pipe at an angle -- that is not parallel to the head tube?

Yes. A punch or just a bar of steel canted to catch a
cup's edge inside the other end of the head tube will do it
in a pinch.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[A Muzi]

Nate Knutson wrote:

> And also, a lot of your repliers are overlooking that some fork/race
> combinations (suspension forks in probably nearly all examples) gives
> you zero overhang of the race for a punch.
>
Some of those have a small divot under the race to start a
punch/cold chisel - manufacturer feature or plan-ahead
installer.
Else begin with a blade, follow with cold chisel, working
around the race.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[Dave Larrington]

In article >, A Muzi
) wrote:
> >>jp_nyc wrote:
> >>>I'm wondering if it would be worth it for me to invest in headset
> >>>tools
> -snip-
>
> > "Peter Cole" > wrote
> >>I've done several headset/fork installations on new frames and
> >>replacements/swaps on old ones. I don't use tools other than basic
> >>hand tools. No problems yet.
>
> Road Man wrote:
> > Peter, what basic tools do you use to install a crown
> > race? A friend
> > and I are puzzling over this right now.
>
> A piece of pipe. It can have a Campagnolo logo, a Bringheli
> sticker, a Var bronze liner or it can just be a foot of
> water pipe from a hardware store.
> For aluminum seats, use the proprietary adapter or a piece
> of scrap headset or similar to avoid gouging the surface.

Mine is the barrel of a Silca track pump...

--
Dave Larrington - <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/>
God was my co-pilot, but we crashed in the mountains and I had to eat
Him.

[Michael Dart]

Road Man wrote:
> Peter, what basic tools do you use to install a crown race? A friend
> and I are puzzling over this right now.
>

I'm using a 12" long piece of 1 1/4" PVC pipe as a crown race setter. It
does the job quite well and won't mar metal parts. I also use it to push
down (not hammer down!) the top ring on CK headsets. The o-ring makes it
tough to slide on some steerers and the pipe gives a better grip to push
against.

Mike


--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth

[Jasper Janssen]

On 27 Mar 2006 00:45:15 -0800, (Donald Gillies) wrote:

>
>I haven't had the opportunity to use the crown race installer
>(basically the cup popping tool fits into a giant sheath that can fit
>down over a steerer tube and tap on all sides of a crown race at
>once, as long as the steerer isn't too big - 25" may be the limit..)

Doesn't seem to be functionally all that different from a long piece of
appropriately sized pipe, though.

Jasper