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rusty
April 3rd 06, 11:51 AM
I have bought Magura HS33 for my GB Coker. When I test them either the
wheel or the frame flexes when us a bit of power on the Coker.
Do you guys have a large distance between your brake pads an the wheel
to avoid this? Or what should I do to remove the flexing (the wheel is
pretty tights see under)?

I had my wheel trued last year, so the spokes are pretty thight.

Components:
Airfoil rim, Unicycle.com Wide Coker hub, GB36 Coker frame

Anders
Norway
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Go away snow


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john_childs
April 3rd 06, 06:43 PM
rusty wrote:
> I have bought Magura HS33 for my GB Coker. When I test them either the
> wheel or the frame flexes when us a bit of power on the Coker.
> Do you guys have a large distance between your brake pads an the wheel
> to avoid this? Or what should I do to remove the flexing (the wheel is
> pretty tights see under)?
>
> I had my wheel trued last year, so the spokes are pretty thight.
>
> Components:
> Airfoil rim, Unicycle.com Wide Coker hub, GB36 Coker frame
>
> Anders
> Norway


A combination of more tension on the spokes and more distance between
the pads and the rim.

The wheel flex is one reason why Dave Stockton came up with his
Strongest Coker Wheel. In part to eliminate wheel flex that is
noticeable when using a brake.

Get the tension on the spokes as high as the wheel builder reasonably
can. I'm not sure how high you can go with the stock Coker spokes.
Dave Stockton uses the custom cut stainless steel spokes from Tom
Miller (The Unicycle Factory).

The other thing to check is to make sure the bearing clamps on the GB4
frame are tight enough. They only have a lip on one side of the clamp.
If the bearing clamps are too loose the frame can slide on the bearing
a bit. So tighten them up, but not too tight.

I have a GB4, Airfoil rim, Tom Miller spokes, UDC wide hub, and a
Magura brake. The wheel was built by a local rider and has a fair
amount of tension in the spokes. It all works well and the brake pads
don't rub the rim. The trick is a good wheel build with lots of
tension in the spokes.


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brycer1968
April 5th 06, 04:14 PM
John: I have been searching the threads on coker wheel building and
lots of folks talk about higher spoke tension, bu I never hear anyone
say how tight? If I knew this number, I'd be able to tell my LBS wheel
builder just how much they can tighten things down without worrying
about breaking anything. Do you or others out there have a
recommendation?

The wheel I want to build would use the UDC extra wide hub, Airfoil rim
and the ss 14 ga spokes (4 cross pattern) that UDC is now selling.
Thanks,
Bryce


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maestro8
April 5th 06, 07:32 PM
john_childs wrote:
> more tension on the spokes... Get the tension on the spokes as high as
> the wheel builder reasonably can.... a fair amount of tension in the
> spokes... lots of tension in the spokes.


So you're saying tighter bearing clamps will help? :p


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john_childs
April 5th 06, 08:07 PM
maestro8 wrote:
> So you're saying tighter bearing clamps will help? :p


Tight enough that the frame doesn't slide on the bearings under heavy
pedaling load or Coker XC muni use.

I only mention that because I've had my brake rub on my Coker before
and the cause was because one of the bearing clamps had gotten too
loose.


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john_childs
April 5th 06, 08:17 PM
brycer1968 wrote:
> John: I have been searching the threads on coker wheel building and
> lots of folks talk about higher spoke tension, bu I never hear anyone
> say how tight? If I knew this number, I'd be able to tell my LBS wheel
> builder just how much they can tighten things down without worrying
> about breaking anything. Do you or others out there have a
> recommendation?
>
> The wheel I want to build would use the UDC extra wide hub, Airfoil rim
> and the ss 14 ga spokes (4 cross pattern) that UDC is now selling.
> Thanks,
> Bryce


I don't know any numbers for tension. The process seems to be build
the wheel to a tension at which the wheel builder believes the wheel is
stiff enough. Ride it around. If it flexes too much then take it back
to the wheel builder for more tension. Repeat until it works well.

The stainless steel spokes also seem to stretch a bit after riding. Or
maybe that stretch is just due to spoke windup that releases after the
wheel has been ridden. In any event you'll likely have to take the
wheel back to the wheel builder for a fixup especially if it is their
first Coker Airfoil wheel.

My Coker wheel was built by a local Seattle rider, unisk8r. It has
been good. He has built several Coker Airfoil wheels.


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brycer1968
April 6th 06, 03:31 PM
john_childs wrote:
> I don't know any numbers for tension. The process seems to be build the
> wheel to a tension at which the wheel builder believes the wheel is
> stiff enough. Ride it around. If it flexes too much then take it back
> to the wheel builder for more tension. Repeat until it works well.
>
> The stainless steel spokes also seem to stretch a bit after riding. Or
> maybe that stretch is just due to spoke windup that releases after the
> wheel has been ridden. In any event you'll likely have to take the
> wheel back to the wheel builder for a fixup especially if it is their
> first Coker Airfoil wheel.
>
> My Coker wheel was built by a local Seattle rider, unisk8r. It has
> been good. He has built several Coker Airfoil wheels.





Thanks John. I appreciate the help.
Bryce


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