So I wanna build a wheel...

[K2]

I've decided to take the plunge and take on learning (again) how to
build wheels myself. I've built a set a long time ago but didn't really
have the proper tools for the job and relied on the LBS to finish them up.
After having a couple "higher" end wheels fail I'd like to rebuild them
rather then trying to pay for replacements or paying someone else for
rebuilding. Besides, I really can use another hobby!
So with stand, dishing tool and tensiometer in hand how realistic would
it be for me to take on rebuilding a high tensioned wheel like a
Bontrager Race Lite (rear wheel). Is this any more difficult then
building a "standard" wheel or just a matter of having the proper specs
to work from?

thanks,

--
If replying directly, please remove the
cleverly decorated addition to my return address.

[Michael Dart]

K2 wrote:
> I've decided to take the plunge and take on learning (again) how to
> build wheels myself. I've built a set a long time ago but didn't
> really have the proper tools for the job and relied on the LBS to
> finish them up. After having a couple "higher" end wheels fail I'd
> like to rebuild them rather then trying to pay for replacements or
> paying someone else for rebuilding. Besides, I really can use another
> hobby!
> So with stand, dishing tool and tensiometer in hand how realistic
> would it be for me to take on rebuilding a high tensioned wheel like a
> Bontrager Race Lite (rear wheel). Is this any more difficult then
> building a "standard" wheel or just a matter of having the proper
> specs to work from?
>
> thanks,

Just do it. You won't regret it.

Set up your spot, get comfortable and be the wheel. Ohmmmmm!

Mike


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[[email protected]]

Karl Kras writes:

> I've decided to take the plunge and take on learning (again) how to
> build wheels myself. I've built a set a long time ago but didn't
> really have the proper tools for the job and relied on the LBS to
> finish them up. After having a couple "higher" end wheels fail I'd
> like to rebuild them rather then trying to pay for replacements or
> paying someone else for rebuilding. Besides, I really can use
> another hobby!

> So with stand, dishing tool and tensiometer in hand how realistic
> would it be for me to take on rebuilding a high tensioned wheel like
> a Bontrager Race Lite (rear wheel). Is this any more difficult then
> building a "standard" wheel or just a matter of having the proper
> specs to work from?

Judging from the discussions here on this newsgroup and my experience
talking to bicycle mechanics, you are possibly embarking on a bad
trip. The natural tendency of most people with a bit of mechanical
skill, is to build poor wheels because the way wheels work is counter
intuitive and the causes for spoke failures mostly invisible.
Besides, the reason for high spoke tension is also not obvious.

One of the most noted wheel builders, at the time I began riding,
built horrible wheels but guaranteed them, so most riders were happy
with getting free spoke replacements. He was a sincere man but, as
most in those days, had little understanding of the product. When he
saw me riding off a curb near his shop, he disowned my wheels and
those of riders who rode with me over rough roads.

It was those times that inspired me to write. Most of what is in the
book, from cover to cover was heresy to the pros, little of it being
common knowledge about wheels. Today, some of this has filtered down
but not easily. I strongly suggest you have a look at "the Bicycle
Wheel" before you start. It is probably the most important "tool" you
can buy.

http://www.avocet.com/wheelbook/wheelbook.html

Jobst Brandt

[Scott]

I started building wheels many years ago for the same reason. I simply
got tired of paying someone else to build me wheels that didn't last. I
figured I could build wheels that would come apart for free. It simply
takes patience, practice, a little reading, the right tools, maybe a few
mistakes, and the willingness to do the job right...which, of course, is
a matter that many are happy to debate. My pulling spokes on the rear
wheel, for example, are laced the way that makes the most sense to me.
Some experts will say they are wrong...some say they are correct. It
just doesn't matter 'cause I can't remember the last time I broke a
spoke. Go for it.




K2 wrote:
> I've decided to take the plunge and take on learning (again) how to
> build wheels myself. I've built a set a long time ago but didn't really
> have the proper tools for the job and relied on the LBS to finish them up.
> After having a couple "higher" end wheels fail I'd like to rebuild them
> rather then trying to pay for replacements or paying someone else for
> rebuilding. Besides, I really can use another hobby!
> So with stand, dishing tool and tensiometer in hand how realistic would
> it be for me to take on rebuilding a high tensioned wheel like a
> Bontrager Race Lite (rear wheel). Is this any more difficult then
> building a "standard" wheel or just a matter of having the proper specs
> to work from?
>
> thanks,
>


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[K2]

wrote:
> Judging from the discussions here on this newsgroup and my experience
> talking to bicycle mechanics, you are possibly embarking on a bad
> trip. The natural tendency of most people with a bit of mechanical
> skill, is to build poor wheels because the way wheels work is counter
> intuitive and the causes for spoke failures mostly invisible.
> Besides, the reason for high spoke tension is also not obvious.
>
> One of the most noted wheel builders, at the time I began riding,
> built horrible wheels but guaranteed them, so most riders were happy
> with getting free spoke replacements. He was a sincere man but, as
> most in those days, had little understanding of the product. When he
> saw me riding off a curb near his shop, he disowned my wheels and
> those of riders who rode with me over rough roads.
>
> It was those times that inspired me to write. Most of what is in the
> book, from cover to cover was heresy to the pros, little of it being
> common knowledge about wheels. Today, some of this has filtered down
> but not easily. I strongly suggest you have a look at "the Bicycle
> Wheel" before you start. It is probably the most important "tool" you
> can buy.
>
> http://www.avocet.com/wheelbook/wheelbook.html
>
> Jobst Brandt
Jobst,
this is one of the "tools" I was lacking to which I was referring in my
previous experience with building wheels.
thanks,
Karl

[NickD]

Built my first wheel a few weeks ago - it was a rebuild of my front
wheel - with nothing more than a spoke wrench. The axle had given out,
so just bought a replacement and used the same spokes. It helped that
it was a radial wheel, and I thought I'd just build it as it was (did
consider doing a cross pattern for more strength, but couldn't find a
recent enough version of spocalc for the hub).

So it was a *very* easy wheel, but I just took my time and was patient.
Just used the bike's forks to see how true it was. Took a few hours - I
suggest having a cold beer close by.

Am planning to build up a wheel on a Rohloff hub some time soon -
again, it'll be easy-ish because it's evenly dished.

Nick

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

K2 wrote:
> I've decided to take the plunge and take on learning (again) how to
> build wheels myself.

Good for you, how most of us started.

I've built a set a long time ago but didn't really
> have the proper tools for the job and relied on the LBS to finish them up.
> After having a couple "higher" end wheels fail I'd like to rebuild them
> rather then trying to pay for replacements or paying someone else for
> rebuilding. Besides, I really can use another hobby!
> So with stand, dishing tool and tensiometer in hand how realistic would
> it be for me to take on rebuilding a high tensioned wheel like a
> Bontrager Race Lite (rear wheel). Is this any more difficult then
> building a "standard" wheel or just a matter of having the proper specs
> to work from?

Generally a wheel is a wheel. Spokes, rims, nipples. Truing and
rounding is kinda tough with the paired spoke ridiculousness but all
the standard principals apply to this any any other bicycle wheel.
>
> thanks,
>
> --
> If replying directly, please remove the
> cleverly decorated addition to my return address.