Removing cranks without a crank puller?

[unisteez]

I searched the forums but was unable to find anything..

I got my new cranks today and i would really like to put them on right
now, but seeing as i don't own a crank puller and the bike shop is
closed by now. What exactly can i do to get the old cranks off?

Thanks.


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[unisteez]

how can i get to the crank with a hammer? do you do it through the
spokes somehow?
i would have experimented with it, but i dont want to mess anything up.


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[skroboskim]

Unitik908 wrote:
> well do as i do, gently beat it with a hammer..
>
> Chase


... good luck hitting the crank w/ only a hammer... you need some kind
of punch to go through the spokes and if you don't want to scratch the
cranks put a small board between the "punch" and the crank ... and hit
as close as you can to where the crank meets the axle ... i have posted
about this before... and it may help to hold the crank/pedal off the
ground by putting the wheel on your legs


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[skroboskim]

a big bolt usually works as a "punch"


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[unisteez]

haha..man this is a tough choice.
i will go take a look at it. see if i think i can do it. if not..then
the guys at the shop will be seeing me bright and early tomorrow.


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[skroboskim]

Daytripper63 wrote:
> The safest way to do it is: DONT do it! no matter how bad you want the
> new cranks on , are you willing to risk damaging your uni and still not
> getting the cranks off and still have to go to the local bike shop...


I have never had a problem w/ the way i do it


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[madmattunipro]

Use a crank puller. The less extra impact and wear you put on your hub,
the better. Plus it's so much easier. Be patient, wait till your shop
opens, then go buy a puller, and you never have to wait again.


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[maestro8]

skroboskim wrote:
> I have never had a problem w/ the way i do it


I'm going to echo what madmatt said. You might not have a problem the
first time you use a hammer, or the 2nd, but the process of using a
hammer applies forces to the hub and cranks at angles that could cause
the metal to deform, weaken, or even crack (microscopically).

Generally the hub is made of a metal that is harder than the cranks,
and the cranks are the first to deform... so you probably won't be able
to get a good fit from hammer-removed cranks after the first or 2nd
removal. Weakening your hub is never a good thing... especially a
square-taper hub. It's like playing russian roulette... you'll never
know which big drop will lead to a disasterous hub failure. Do you
really want to risk a bruised pair of 'nads?


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