Questions about Ultegra 10sp groupset

[Travis]

There are some great prices on Ultegra 10sp stuff at Probikekit and
other places. Using the "kit builder" you can choose which bits you
want, and don't want.

Can anyone give some relative newbie pointers on the pros and cons of
different casettes: 11-23, 12-23,12-25,12-27. Undoubtedly a large
amount of personal preference plays a role, but presumably there are
some guidelines about which casettes are suitable for which roles.
Obviously the bigger casettes are better for really steep hill climbing
because it gives a lower granny gear, but perhaps there is more to it
than meets my eye.

What is the deal with different cranklengths, 170mm, 172.5mm, 175mm?
Are they primarily selected for fit, or do they serve different
purposes? On my Trek 2300 the front wheel quite often hits my toecap
(leaving ugly black scuffs on my shoes). Does this mean I should go
for a shorter crank? (I have 172.5mm right now). I'm a reasonably big
bloke (190cm tall). I don't do any competitive cycling at this point
(crits, TT etc), main use is just commuting and touring, but I like to
do both as fast as possible.

I have no idea what this thing is: Prorace Braze-On to Band-On Gear
Adaptor: 31.8mm or 34.9mm. What does this do, do I need one for a Trek
2300 being converted from Ultegra 9sp to Ultegra 10sp, and do I need a
31.8mm or 34.9mm?

Also, which 10sp bits work on a 9sp groupset? Do I have to buy it all
at once, or could I buy, say, a new crank and rings now and the rest
later? I assume that 10sp STI shifters do not work on a 9sp groupset
(which is unfortunate, because my 9sp STIs are flakey and if I could
just replace those alone I'd probably be fine for a while).

Travis

[Random Data]

On Sat, 20 May 2006 23:55:51 -0700, Travis wrote:

> Can anyone give some relative newbie pointers on the pros and cons of
> different casettes: 11-23, 12-23,12-25,12-27.

Basically you can have close ratios to get optimum cadence for a given
speed, or you can trade that for a broader range so you can climb steeper
hills. For a recreational/commuter cyclist, broad ranges are a good thing.
I'd suggest a 25 or 27. Heck, my commuter's had an 11-34 on it in the past.

> What is the deal with different cranklengths, 170mm, 172.5mm, 175mm?
> Are they primarily selected for fit, or do they serve different
> purposes?

Fit and preference. A longer crank gives more leverage, which is easier to
push for those who like a slow cadence. 175 is fairly typical, and 2.5mm
won't dramatically change things either way. At 190cm I'd suggest 175s
are sane, and a bit of toe clip is fairly common on a lot of bikes.

> I have no idea what this thing is: Prorace Braze-On to Band-On Gear
> Adaptor: 31.8mm or 34.9mm.

Road front derailleurs traditionally bolted on to a brazed-on tab on the
seat tube. The band there is a clamp that goes around your seat tube
to adapt a traditional front derailleur. Have a look at your current
front derailleur to determine if you need one, and the size. Trek's
website may also have info on sizing.

> Also, which 10sp bits work on a 9sp groupset?

I'm not sure, but I'd say shifters and cluster have to go together.
Anything else you can probably mix and match, but I'm not that familiar
with road compatibility.

--
Dave Hughes |
"One of the main causes of the fall of the Roman Empire was that,
lacking zero, they had no way to indicate successful termination of
their C programs." -- Robert Firth

[Gags]

"Travis" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> There are some great prices on Ultegra 10sp stuff at Probikekit and
> other places. Using the "kit builder" you can choose which bits you
> want, and don't want.
>
> Can anyone give some relative newbie pointers on the pros and cons of
> different casettes: 11-23, 12-23,12-25,12-27. Undoubtedly a large
> amount of personal preference plays a role, but presumably there are
> some guidelines about which casettes are suitable for which roles.
> Obviously the bigger casettes are better for really steep hill climbing
> because it gives a lower granny gear, but perhaps there is more to it
> than meets my eye.
>
If you are running the standard 53/39 cranks, then I would suggest going for
a 12-25 cassette. This is a good middle of the road range of ratios and
will let you get up fairly steep hills at a reasonable cadence. I would
suggest that the 11-23 would be OK for fairly flat terrain or for TT
specific bike and the 12-27 might be OK for something like the Alpine
Classic.

> What is the deal with different cranklengths, 170mm, 172.5mm, 175mm?
> Are they primarily selected for fit, or do they serve different
> purposes? On my Trek 2300 the front wheel quite often hits my toecap
> (leaving ugly black scuffs on my shoes). Does this mean I should go
> for a shorter crank? (I have 172.5mm right now). I'm a reasonably big
> bloke (190cm tall). I don't do any competitive cycling at this point
> (crits, TT etc), main use is just commuting and touring, but I like to
> do both as fast as possible.
>

Crank length is generally a function of the length of your legs and
generally taller people need longer cranks. Shorter cranks may be suited
for someone who likes spinning at a higher cadence and they will put a
little less stress on knees. I am 195cm and I run 175mm cranks on all my
bikes except for the track frame that I am building up that has 165mm cranks
(need more clearance on the track).

If your shoe hits your tyre it is more likely a reflection of the geometry
of your frame.

> I have no idea what this thing is: Prorace Braze-On to Band-On Gear
> Adaptor: 31.8mm or 34.9mm. What does this do, do I need one for a Trek
> 2300 being converted from Ultegra 9sp to Ultegra 10sp, and do I need a
> 31.8mm or 34.9mm?
>

Front Derailleurs either have a clamp to go around the seat tube (band-on)
or they bolt directly to a small tab that is brazed or welded to the frame
(braze on). The adaptor that you refer to will fit a seat tube of either
31.8mm or 34.9mm and will provide a small tab to the side of the frame so
that you then can use a braze-on type FD.

> Also, which 10sp bits work on a 9sp groupset? Do I have to buy it all
> at once, or could I buy, say, a new crank and rings now and the rest
> later? I assume that 10sp STI shifters do not work on a 9sp groupset
> (which is unfortunate, because my 9sp STIs are flakey and if I could
> just replace those alone I'd probably be fine for a while).
>
> Travis
>

If you are looking to renew your 9spd setup, this mob have 9 spd Ultegra
shifters for $300US. (about $400AU)

http://tinyurl.com/jqtsx

Gags

[Donga]

Gags wrote:
> If you are looking to renew your 9spd setup, this mob have 9 spd Ultegra
> shifters for $300US. (about $400AU)
>
> http://tinyurl.com/jqtsx

Also worth looking at www.cambriabike.com for shifters and assorted
bits - good range and fair prices. I bought a right/rear unit from them
a couple of years ago - other shops force you to buy pairs, and it's
the right/rear that is the problem mostly.

You might get a bit (not a lot) more life out of your STI shifter by
pumping RP7 through it.

Donga

[Travis]

Gags wrote:
> "Travis" > wrote in message
> oups.com...

> Front Derailleurs either have a clamp to go around the seat tube (band-on)
> or they bolt directly to a small tab that is brazed or welded to the frame
> (braze on). The adaptor that you refer to will fit a seat tube of either
> 31.8mm or 34.9mm and will provide a small tab to the side of the frame so
> that you then can use a braze-on type FD.

Ok, well after measuring my tube with a ruler is 31.8mm. The
derailleur currently on there seems to be attached with a band.
Presumably I'll need one of these adaptors because the Ultegra stuff at
Probikekit is braze on?

> If you are looking to renew your 9spd setup, this mob have 9 spd Ultegra
> shifters for $300US. (about $400AU)

An entire 10sp groupset costs just over twice that from Probikekit.
Hardly seems worth repairing my 9sp unless I can do it for one or two
hundred dollars.

Travis

[Bleve]

Travis wrote:

> An entire 10sp groupset costs just over twice that from Probikekit.
> Hardly seems worth repairing my 9sp unless I can do it for one or two
> hundred dollars.

I'll have your old bits :)

[Bruce Dickson]

Travis wrote:

> What is the deal with different cranklengths, 170mm, 172.5mm, 175mm?
> Are they primarily selected for fit, or do they serve different
> purposes? On my Trek 2300 the front wheel quite often hits my toecap
> (leaving ugly black scuffs on my shoes). Does this mean I should go
> for a shorter crank? (I have 172.5mm right now). I'm a reasonably big
> bloke (190cm tall). I don't do any competitive cycling at this point
> (crits, TT etc), main use is just commuting and touring, but I like to
> do both as fast as possible.

There is a school of thought that someone your height should be on
cranks a lot longer than 175mm. Have a look at
http://www.cranklength.info/ and the archives over at rec.bicycles.tech
if you are interested. I am 192cm tall with a 91cm inseam and changed
from 175 to 185mm several years ago and am very happy with them. But
you could quite possibly use 170mm, 172.5mm or 175mm and still sleep
well at night.

Bruce.

[Bleve]

Bruce Dickson wrote:
> Travis wrote:
>
> > What is the deal with different cranklengths, 170mm, 172.5mm, 175mm?
> > Are they primarily selected for fit, or do they serve different
> > purposes? On my Trek 2300 the front wheel quite often hits my toecap
> > (leaving ugly black scuffs on my shoes). Does this mean I should go
> > for a shorter crank? (I have 172.5mm right now). I'm a reasonably big
> > bloke (190cm tall). I don't do any competitive cycling at this point
> > (crits, TT etc), main use is just commuting and touring, but I like to
> > do both as fast as possible.
>
> There is a school of thought that someone your height should be on
> cranks a lot longer than 175mm. Have a look at
> http://www.cranklength.info/ and the archives over at rec.bicycles.tech

Thanks for posting this link, it's very interesting. have you read
Bontrager's bikefit theory? It's on Sheldon's site, and here's alink to
a copy on mine :

http://www.aboc.com.au/docs/kops.html

[Donga]

monsterman wrote:
> Hey Adam what gives?? - bring back the Darth Vader avatar !! My nephew
> received a Mr Potato Head toy for his birthday last weekend. It was a
> darth vader kit labelled "Darth 'Tater". For some reason I found that
> funny.

??? MM, isn't it a bit early in the day for what you must have been
doing?

Donga
;-)

[adam85]

monsterman Wrote:
> >
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>
> Hey Adam what gives?? - bring back the Darth Vader avatar !! My
> nephew received a Mr Potato Head toy for his birthday last weekend.
> It was a darth vader kit labelled "Darth 'Tater". For some reason I
> found that funny.

shhh....don't tell the usenet people..they'll all want one!

Adam
(prepping the coffee machine for tonight's giro)


--
adam85

[Stuart Lamble]

On 2006-05-23, adam85 > wrote:
>
> monsterman Wrote:
>> Hey Adam what gives?? - bring back the Darth Vader avatar !! My
>> nephew received a Mr Potato Head toy for his birthday last weekend.
>> It was a darth vader kit labelled "Darth 'Tater". For some reason I
>> found that funny.
>
> shhh....don't tell the usenet people..they'll all want one!

I don't. I already have one. And a Spudtrooper, too.

I hear that they're also coming out with an R2D2Tater soon ...

--
My Usenet From: address now expires after two weeks. If you email me, and
the mail bounces, try changing the bit before the "@" to "usenet".