June 26th 06, 08:29 AM
Did my 49th bike tour, finishing yesterday. With my wife Mary, her 30th
or so. I'm 56.
Flew to Durham Tees Valley (Teeside) with BMI baby.
Made our way to Durham in a couple of hours and stayed Friday night.
Noisy hotel. Next morning went to see famous view from across river, of
cathedral. Gosh, what a view!! An uberstunner.
Then saw cathedral (inside not that impressive) and took bike route to
Sunderland (not great) and along coast to South Shields. It was very
busy (Saturday and sunny), got ferry to North Shields and headed north.
Headed through grim Blyth to finish in B&B in Newbiggin on Sea. Great
Indian restaurant there, but slow. Next day headed north along bike
route which improved (there was need of improvement) and reached
Bamburgh with its magnificent castle. Stayed and ate in excellent Mizen
Head hotel.
Next day hit Lindisfarne just in time to go across on tidal causeway.
Weather was lovely at this time. Some good inland stuff. Saw
Lindisfarne (Holy Island). Not as good as Iona. Onward to Berwick on
Tweed.
Opinion so far. I'm glad we were told that "the Northumberland coast is
an area of outstanding Natural Beauty", because we wouldn't have known.
It's NOT particularly beautiful. It's okay. Some of the bike route is
assbusting stuff with bad surfaces etc, and some is very finicky
cycling.
The next bit to Edinburgh, which goes inland along the Tweed and then
North through the Moorfoot hills is BRILLIANT. Very quiet, very scenic,
good surfaces. Challenging enough. We stayed in Melrose in rooms above
Gary Moore's restaurant. Much ballyhooed. Rooms service etc were great
but my wife's Red Snapper was not very fresh. Fish has to be either
fresh or frozen. But not grey.
We had to cope with a lot of wind en route and on the leg to Edinburgh,
quite a few showers. The only downside of this route is that the entry
to Edinburgh is unnecessary long and fiddly. I'd have preferred a busy
road.
Took a day off next day and did the open-top bus, saw the castle, 2 art
galleries etc. A stunning city. As fine as I've seen. Stayed in a
poorish B&B, but cheap. Ate twice in good Italian place called Ciao
Roma. Had booked train to Newcastle which was 11 sterling each
including bikes. A bargain.
>From Newcastle headed off on Hadrian's way. Did nasty climb up to
Heddon on the Wall to see our first bit of Hadrian's wall. Back on the
route. We were into a fierce headwind and eventually stayed in
Corbridge (short day). Stayed in Golden Lion and ate in ?Wheatchaff
hotel which was good. Next day towards Haltwhistle, saw Vindolanda and
went to see wall, back towards Haltwhistle and then cycle route
(initially) towards Alston. Were on road now, quiet. Lovely scenery.
Could get nowhere to stay in Alston so continued with that sinking
feeling as we were unable to book in the next village by phone. This
was challenging cycling but with stunning light on the mountains. It
was magnificent. What a route. We continued towards Barnard Castle but
came across the middleofnowhere Landon Beck Hotel which by the grace of
god had a cancellation. Stayed and ate here. It was excellent. Good
company.
Next day cycled via Barnard Castle and main road via Darlington to
airport and home.
No punctures. Replaced my brake blocks.
Summary. Berwick to Edinburgh marvellous, the bit through the Moorfoot
hills being the best. Pennines bit stunning. Coast not great.
Lindisfarne interesting. See Edinburgh if you haven't.
or so. I'm 56.
Flew to Durham Tees Valley (Teeside) with BMI baby.
Made our way to Durham in a couple of hours and stayed Friday night.
Noisy hotel. Next morning went to see famous view from across river, of
cathedral. Gosh, what a view!! An uberstunner.
Then saw cathedral (inside not that impressive) and took bike route to
Sunderland (not great) and along coast to South Shields. It was very
busy (Saturday and sunny), got ferry to North Shields and headed north.
Headed through grim Blyth to finish in B&B in Newbiggin on Sea. Great
Indian restaurant there, but slow. Next day headed north along bike
route which improved (there was need of improvement) and reached
Bamburgh with its magnificent castle. Stayed and ate in excellent Mizen
Head hotel.
Next day hit Lindisfarne just in time to go across on tidal causeway.
Weather was lovely at this time. Some good inland stuff. Saw
Lindisfarne (Holy Island). Not as good as Iona. Onward to Berwick on
Tweed.
Opinion so far. I'm glad we were told that "the Northumberland coast is
an area of outstanding Natural Beauty", because we wouldn't have known.
It's NOT particularly beautiful. It's okay. Some of the bike route is
assbusting stuff with bad surfaces etc, and some is very finicky
cycling.
The next bit to Edinburgh, which goes inland along the Tweed and then
North through the Moorfoot hills is BRILLIANT. Very quiet, very scenic,
good surfaces. Challenging enough. We stayed in Melrose in rooms above
Gary Moore's restaurant. Much ballyhooed. Rooms service etc were great
but my wife's Red Snapper was not very fresh. Fish has to be either
fresh or frozen. But not grey.
We had to cope with a lot of wind en route and on the leg to Edinburgh,
quite a few showers. The only downside of this route is that the entry
to Edinburgh is unnecessary long and fiddly. I'd have preferred a busy
road.
Took a day off next day and did the open-top bus, saw the castle, 2 art
galleries etc. A stunning city. As fine as I've seen. Stayed in a
poorish B&B, but cheap. Ate twice in good Italian place called Ciao
Roma. Had booked train to Newcastle which was 11 sterling each
including bikes. A bargain.
>From Newcastle headed off on Hadrian's way. Did nasty climb up to
Heddon on the Wall to see our first bit of Hadrian's wall. Back on the
route. We were into a fierce headwind and eventually stayed in
Corbridge (short day). Stayed in Golden Lion and ate in ?Wheatchaff
hotel which was good. Next day towards Haltwhistle, saw Vindolanda and
went to see wall, back towards Haltwhistle and then cycle route
(initially) towards Alston. Were on road now, quiet. Lovely scenery.
Could get nowhere to stay in Alston so continued with that sinking
feeling as we were unable to book in the next village by phone. This
was challenging cycling but with stunning light on the mountains. It
was magnificent. What a route. We continued towards Barnard Castle but
came across the middleofnowhere Landon Beck Hotel which by the grace of
god had a cancellation. Stayed and ate here. It was excellent. Good
company.
Next day cycled via Barnard Castle and main road via Darlington to
airport and home.
No punctures. Replaced my brake blocks.
Summary. Berwick to Edinburgh marvellous, the bit through the Moorfoot
hills being the best. Pennines bit stunning. Coast not great.
Lindisfarne interesting. See Edinburgh if you haven't.