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Dave
July 3rd 06, 08:34 AM
OK then not quite pain.

I have recently got back on a bike for the first time is over 20 years and
have gradually built up to what was my longest ride yet of 60miles (OK not
as far as some of you go).

A few hours after the ride I noticed that my hands felt really odd and I can
barely use my knife and fork or hold other househord objects.

This morning it is not much better and the bottom of my forearms are odd
too.

I have decided that I need to get some new gloves as the ones I have are now
past it and will probably get some gel ones. I also realise that I am
probably holding the bars too tight, but on a bumpy canal towpath I feel the
need to, and hopefully in time I will feel happier not gripping too tight.

Has anyone got any other ideas however of how to prevent this and anything I
can do now to restore my full usage.

Thanks
Dave

BigRab
July 3rd 06, 08:51 AM
Dave wrote:

> I have recently got back on a bike for the first time is over 20 years
>
> Has anyone got any other ideas however of how to prevent this and anything I
> can do now to restore my full usage.
Hi Dave:

Assuming no medical problems, you may want to raise you handlebars a
little to take some of the weight off your hands and arms. We all tend
to ignore the fact that we're not teenagers any more and set our bikes
(and our sights!) just the same as we used to when we were more limber
LOL.

It may be that your 'gradual' build up just wasn't gradual enough.

If your ride was particularly gnarly then it could be as simple as uour
forearm muscles being pumped up for an unacustomed period.

Check Specialised Body Geometry gloves, they're well made with no seams
in the wrong places and some nicely placed gel-like pads in the heel of
the palm to protect the ( ? ) ulnar nerve.

You'll probably just have to give it time to subside but icing your
sore bits (no, not like a cake lol) for a while every day.

Robert

David Martin
July 3rd 06, 09:03 AM
Dave wrote:
> OK then not quite pain.
>
> I have recently got back on a bike for the first time is over 20 years and
> have gradually built up to what was my longest ride yet of 60miles (OK not
> as far as some of you go).
>
> A few hours after the ride I noticed that my hands felt really odd and I can
> barely use my knife and fork or hold other househord objects.
>
> This morning it is not much better and the bottom of my forearms are odd
> too.
>
> I have decided that I need to get some new gloves as the ones I have are now
> past it and will probably get some gel ones. I also realise that I am
> probably holding the bars too tight, but on a bumpy canal towpath I feel the
> need to, and hopefully in time I will feel happier not gripping too tight.
>
> Has anyone got any other ideas however of how to prevent this and anything I
> can do now to restore my full usage.

IANAMD, however I have suffered similar in the past. It may not be the
arms that are the problem. Typically I would expect problems that could
be resolved using gloves to be immediate and acute (ie the pain goes
when you let go). It coult be strain in your neck, leading to pressure
on the relevant nerves and subsequent pain in the arms.

You could try neck stretches and/or a more upright riding position.
Your rough riding could well be causing you strain in the neck,
especially on longer rides.

This is just a suggestion. Best to get yourself to a qualified medic to
get better suggestions.

...d

Peter Clinch
July 3rd 06, 09:08 AM
Dave wrote:

> I have recently got back on a bike for the first time is over 20 years and
> have gradually built up to what was my longest ride yet of 60miles (OK not
> as far as some of you go).

It's as far as I go.

> A few hours after the ride I noticed that my hands felt really odd and I can
> barely use my knife and fork or hold other househord objects.

Not had that, but mu limit used to be 60 miles as after that the degree
to which I was leaning weight through my arms took too much of a comfort
toll.

As has been suggested you might try moving things so you're sat more
upright to take weight off your arms and hands. On the downside,
that'll slow you down as you'll be catching more wind.
Or perhaps a more radical solution, which has eliminated discomfort in
my arms, neck, shoulders and back completely: get a recumbent bike.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

Simon Brooke
July 3rd 06, 09:36 AM
in message >, Dave
') wrote:

> A few hours after the ride I noticed that my hands felt really odd and
> I can barely use my knife and fork or hold other househord objects.
>
> This morning it is not much better and the bottom of my forearms are
> odd too.

Road vibration induced palsy. I used to suffer from this badly.

There are various things you can do to damp vibration. Firstly, if you're
not wearing track mitts with padded palms, get some. If you are wearing
them, get different ones with a different amount of padding. Second,
change your had position frequently while riding. If you have a bike
with straight bars, fit at least bar-ends. Thirdly, change your bar tape
or hand grips to ones with more vibration-damping material. Fourthly,
try not to grip your bars - learn to ride with your hands resting quite
lightly on them.

The change that makes the biggest difference is to change your front
forks to ones which dampen vibration more, ideally carbon fibre, but
this can be quite expensive. Contrary to what one would expect, not all
suspension forks are effective at reducing road buzz (although some
are).

Particular recommendations:

Specialized Body Geometry mitts (very padded) do not work at all well for
me - in fact they make it worse. My favourite mitts are some cheap
Altura ones and some ludicrously expensive Rapha ones, both of which
have fairly thin non-gel padding but distributed across the whole palm.

I use Cane Creek Ergo Control bar ends on my mountain bikes - they're
quite expensive but really good. However, not bar ends are as good as
proper dropped bars, because proper dropped bars give you far more
variation of hand position than any bar-ends.

Cork bar tape - any brand, I use 3T - or leather (although that's hard to
get hold of these days) works for me better than gel. In the past I used
to use Grab On foam bar covering which was extremely good but you don't
seem to be able to get it any more.

--
(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
;; Let's have a moment of silence for all those Americans who are stuck
;; in traffic on their way to the gym to ride the stationary bicycle.
;; Rep. Earl Blumenauer (Dem, OR)

POHB
July 3rd 06, 09:55 AM
Dave wrote:
>
> A few hours after the ride I noticed that my hands felt really odd
>
> I also realise that I am
> probably holding the bars too tight, but on a bumpy canal towpath
> ...

60 Miles on a canal towpath is a lot of bumpy. How about breaking the
route up with some road sections?

I found that moving my saddle back slightly helped with slight numbness
in the fingers. Although it means leaning forward slightly more, I'm
guessing that it takes the weight slightly off the hands and more onto
the legs as you pedal. Also some bar ends or other handlebar styles or
modifications that let you change hand position may help.

Arthur Clune
July 3rd 06, 10:24 AM
Dave wrote:

> I have decided that I need to get some new gloves as the ones I have are now
> past it and will probably get some gel ones. I also realise that I am

Maybe, but this isn't the real solution and will only mask the problem

> Has anyone got any other ideas however of how to prevent this and anything I
> can do now to restore my full usage.

1) Stay off the bike until your hands are better

2) Raise the handlebars.

3) Grip the bars less hard. You don't need to, even on a towpath. Try it!

--
Arthur Clune

John
July 3rd 06, 11:24 AM
"Simon Brooke" > wrote in message
...
> in message >, Dave
> ') wrote:
>
>> A few hours after the ride I noticed that my hands felt really odd and
>> I can barely use my knife and fork or hold other househord objects.
>>
>> This morning it is not much better and the bottom of my forearms are
>> odd too.
>
>. If you have a bike
> with straight bars, fit at least bar-ends.

It is hand/wrist position that does it to me. Straight bars are worst.
Riding on the hoods of a drop handlebar gives me straight wrists and no
problem.

For me mitts make very little difference and changing hand position only
works in that my hands/wrists are in a bad position less of the time. The
effect appears to be cumulative.

You may want to look at exactly where/how you have gone numb. One side of
the hand/specific fingers can be characteristic of a particular condition.

Blonde
July 3rd 06, 11:31 AM
Arthur Clune wrote:
> Dave wrote:
>
> > I have decided that I need to get some new gloves as the ones I have are now
> > past it and will probably get some gel ones. I also realise that I am
>
> Maybe, but this isn't the real solution and will only mask the problem
>
> > Has anyone got any other ideas however of how to prevent this and anything I
> > can do now to restore my full usage.
>
> 1) Stay off the bike until your hands are better
>
> 2) Raise the handlebars.
>
> 3) Grip the bars less hard. You don't need to, even on a towpath. Try it!
>
> --
> Arthur Clune

Yes, I agree with the above.

Also you may get some extra cushioning by using some fatter tyres, if
there is enough clearance for these, and/or pumping up the tyres to a
slightly lower pressure than usual.

Different geometry/shape of the frame and forks can make a difference
to how much vibation and shock your arms get. It may be possible to fit
a different fork with more 'rake' or even a suspension fork to help
with this.

Simply fitting a suspension seat post may help to some extent, if all
of the above suggestions do not. I personally do not like these for
various reasons unrelated to their shock absorbing qualities, but some
people do find them useful.

Paul Boyd
July 3rd 06, 11:40 AM
Dave said the following on 03/07/2006 08:34:

> Has anyone got any other ideas however of how to prevent this and anything I
> can do now to restore my full usage.

In a lot of the replies, it seems to be assumed you have a mountain bike
or hybrid. Is this actually the case?

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

Dave
July 3rd 06, 01:20 PM
"Paul Boyd" > wrote in message
...
> Dave said the following on 03/07/2006 08:34:
>
> > Has anyone got any other ideas however of how to prevent this and
anything I
> > can do now to restore my full usage.
>
> In a lot of the replies, it seems to be assumed you have a mountain bike
> or hybrid. Is this actually the case?
>
> --
> Paul Boyd
> http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

The bike is a hybrid. Nothing fancy compared with some that I looked at. At
the lower end of cost and lighter that some bikes that I looked at.

I had decided that having ridden some mountain bikes on roads, tracks etc in
testing, I felt that it would largely be wasted on my needs and plans. I
wanted something suitable for for tracks and the road.

In the end I bought a Ridgeback Speed, upto now I am finding it a good bike
for me with the exception of this.

Dave

Brian G
July 3rd 06, 01:53 PM
Dave wrote:
> "Paul Boyd" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Dave said the following on 03/07/2006 08:34:
>>
>>> Has anyone got any other ideas however of how to prevent this and
> anything I
>>> can do now to restore my full usage.
>> In a lot of the replies, it seems to be assumed you have a mountain bike
>> or hybrid. Is this actually the case?
>>
>> --
>> Paul Boyd
>> http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/
>
> The bike is a hybrid. Nothing fancy compared with some that I looked at. At
> the lower end of cost and lighter that some bikes that I looked at.
>
> I had decided that having ridden some mountain bikes on roads, tracks etc in
> testing, I felt that it would largely be wasted on my needs and plans. I
> wanted something suitable for for tracks and the road.
>
> In the end I bought a Ridgeback Speed, upto now I am finding it a good bike
> for me with the exception of this.

You've had lots of advice already. One little trick I've found useful
on flat bars is simply to alter the aspect of the hands/wrists from time
to time on the ride. I.e., sometimes arch the wrists slightly by
sliding the knuckles down towards the front wheel, and sometimes do the
reverse slightly. (None of this while braking, obviously).

--
Brian G

Paul Boyd
July 3rd 06, 02:01 PM
Dave said the following on 03/07/2006 13:20:

> The bike is a hybrid. Nothing fancy compared with some that I looked at. At
> the lower end of cost and lighter that some bikes that I looked at.

Don't need to sound apologetic! I've just bought a "budget" MTB to get
back into it, knowing full well that I can't do justice to a £2500 bike.
Yet...

> In the end I bought a Ridgeback Speed

My first ever MTB was a Ridgeback, waaaaaay back in 1986. I found some
photos of it the other day, and a 20 year old MTB don't 'alf look
old-fashioned compared to modern bikes!!! At the time, no-one knew what
a mountain bike was!

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

Bryan
July 3rd 06, 02:20 PM
One thing that I don't think I have seen is to check the saddle
position. If it's tipped forward, you put undue strain on the neck,
shoulders, arms and wrists. The saddle should be flat, allowing weight
to be put in the sit bones, not your arms.

Byan


--
Bryan

Rob Morley
July 3rd 06, 06:41 PM
In article >
Paul Boyd > wrote:
> Dave said the following on 03/07/2006 13:20:
>
> > The bike is a hybrid. Nothing fancy compared with some that I looked at.. At
> > the lower end of cost and lighter that some bikes that I looked at.
>
> Don't need to sound apologetic! I've just bought a "budget" MTB to get
> back into it, knowing full well that I can't do justice to a £2500 bike..
> Yet...
>
> > In the end I bought a Ridgeback Speed
>
> My first ever MTB was a Ridgeback, waaaaaay back in 1986. I found some
> photos of it the other day, and a 20 year old MTB don't 'alf look
> old-fashioned compared to modern bikes!!! At the time, no-one knew what
> a mountain bike was!
>
>
We had an early Rockhopper in the window for ages - aroused a lot of
interest but nobody was inclined to fork out £400 (or however much it
was). Only a year or two later Muddy Fox Couriers were flying out the
door as fast as we could get them at £300 a pop - it's funny how things
change. Does anyone remember the Dawes Ranger - ******* offspring of a
bicycle and a Range Rover?

Mark Thompson
July 3rd 06, 06:52 PM
> Don't need to sound apologetic! I've just bought a "budget" MTB to get
> back into it, knowing full well that I can't do justice to a œ2500 bike.
> Yet...

Heh, you don't have to wait until you can do justice to it, but just until
you can truly appreciate it. That's what I keep telling myself anyway.

To the OP, you already know to hold the bars loosely in your hands, so do
so! Gripping them tightly will do/is doing bad things to your
hands/wrists.

Simon Brooke
July 3rd 06, 11:07 PM
in message >, Mark
Thompson
('pleasegivegenerously@warmmail*_turn_up_the_heat_ to_reply*.com') wrote:

>> Don't need to sound apologetic! I've just bought a "budget" MTB to
>> get back into it, knowing full well that I can't do justice to a
>> œ2500 bike.
>> Yet...
>
> Heh, you don't have to wait until you can do justice to it, but just
> until
> you can truly appreciate it. That's what I keep telling myself anyway.

Absolutely. I can't - even nearly - 'do justice' to either my good road
bike or my good mountain bike. But I appreciate both of them - very much
indeed.

--
(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
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Paul Boyd
July 4th 06, 08:10 AM
Mark Thompson said the following on 03/07/2006 18:52:

> Heh, you don't have to wait until you can do justice to it, but just until
> you can truly appreciate it. That's what I keep telling myself anyway.

There's something less embarrassing about falling off a "cheap" bike
than falling off an expensive bike! You know, the "he's got an
expensive bike but can't even ride it!" syndrome :-)

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

Brian G
July 4th 06, 09:04 AM
Paul Boyd wrote:
> Mark Thompson said the following on 03/07/2006 18:52:
>
>> Heh, you don't have to wait until you can do justice to it, but just
>> until you can truly appreciate it. That's what I keep telling myself
>> anyway.
>
> There's something less embarrassing about falling off a "cheap" bike
> than falling off an expensive bike! You know, the "he's got an
> expensive bike but can't even ride it!" syndrome :-)
>

I was out riding with a group at the weekend. There was much admiring of
my bike. Guess who was the only one to throw the chain at the bottom of
the steep climb <embarrassed> !!

--
Brian G

Dave
July 5th 06, 08:35 AM
"Mark Thompson"
<pleasegivegenerously@warmmail*_turn_up_the_heat_to _reply*.com> wrote in
message 03.19...
> > Don't need to sound apologetic! I've just bought a "budget" MTB to get
> > back into it, knowing full well that I can't do justice to a o2500 bike.
> > Yet...
>
> Heh, you don't have to wait until you can do justice to it, but just until
> you can truly appreciate it. That's what I keep telling myself anyway.
>
> To the OP, you already know to hold the bars loosely in your hands, so do
> so! Gripping them tightly will do/is doing bad things to your
> hands/wrists.

Thanks to all for their suggestions.

Some I will try - like different gloves, hand positions, seat and bar
positions etc.

Some I will not, due to not wanting to buy another new bike.

Thanks again.

DaveB

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