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View Full Version : Re: 28 24 22 20 18 - sensible? doable? costly? Done! Thanks! £6.79!


AP
January 6th 07, 07:10 PM
Took about five hours in the end. Cost £6.79. Works beautifully.

Once everyone's advice had calmed me down and undauntificated me, I thought
'I can do this'. Found an ideal freewheel on ebay -
Shimano,14,16,18,20,22,24,28 - brand new, with a starting price of £3.84 +
£2.95 p&p. Searching on advanced>completed items only revealed that these
come up all the time, from the same seller, who's obviously bought a job lot
of 300, and mostly go for £3.84, tho' silly people who don't use advanced
search sometimes bid against each other and end up paying over the odds. So
that was that: £6.79. Delivered to my door. Perfick.

All I needed now was a clear afternoon and a house empty of kids. Today was
it.

In the event I decided not to bother with cold-setting. 'Springing' the
frame sounded like it might work, and would involve less risk, not to
mention lengths of 4 x 2. The axle turned out to be too short, but luckily I
managed to cannabalise one off an old wheel that was just a few mm longer,
and turned out to be just long enough. I moved the cones about and
experimented with spacers...the first time I put it back on the bike it was
more off-centre than it 'needed to be' (which was a fair bit in any case),
so I moved a 1mm washer from one side to the other and...

It *was* a bugger getting it back into the frame. Took quite a lot of
hauling and thumping and repositioning and trying again, but I never had any
doubt that I'd get the damn thing in in the end. And so it proved.

Getting there. I pulled some more cable thru' to give the rear shifter the
extra reach it needed to reach the now-much-further-away first sprocket, and
fiddled with the 'hi' and 'lo' screws to match the new block. Close. But no
cigar. The wheel was just too far off-centre, rubbing the brake blocks on
one side quite firmly, and tho' I'd been hoping I might get away with it, I
was clearly going to have to take the plunge into redishing after all.

Came back here and found Pete Biggs's message (Thanks Pete!)about how to go
about it, and thought 'yeah, that all makes sense. I can do that.'
Discovered within about ten spokes of course that it was easy peasy lemon
squeezy.. Worked perfectly. Took about fifteen minutes.

There's still a bit of fine-tuning to do. I still get a few spokes 'ticking'
just ever so slightly on the reaer shifter when I'm riding hard up a steep
hill in first. I tried to sort it out, but I think I just ended up making it
marginally worse, so I decided to leave it for another day. It works. It
works really nicely. I'm chuffed as ...um...

So - many thanks to all who responded to my earlier posts. I really couldn't
have done it without you. I've learned new skills and gained new confidence
and above all of course, now have a far better bike.

Re which, and to digress slightly, an earlier thread on brake blocks opened
up a can of worms about ebay: 'how can you risk xx in the new wild west?' v
'get real. Get bargains'. I have to say, ebay has been absolutely central to
my ability to get back into cycling in my mid-40s. I simply could not have
afforded to get a bike remotely as good as the one I now ride without it.

I bought a Benotto Modello 800. Michael Kone/Sheldon Brown say of Benotto:
"Some of the Italian examples are exquisite. Such an N.R. bike should be
worth perhaps $800." And it *is* exquisite. Seriously. I saw it in the
listings - a postage stamp size picture - and just thought instantly: I want
it. And I got it - for £56. (From a guy in Yeovil...and I live in London.
Try that without ebay.) True, it wasn't an N.R. bike. The gears were Sun,
other components from different manufacturers, but all clearly good stuff.
Apart from the saddle, which I couldn't get along with, so swapped for the
Vector from my old bike. True too, the chain was completely rusted up, it
had no handlebar tape, one of the tyres was badly perished, the headset felt
a bit odd, and the bottom braclket felt like it could use a good clear out,
but still...

With the help of people here and others I was encouraged to get stuck in,
and did, doing things I'd never attempted before (tho' of course always
variations on themes...once you've cleaned out and replaced wheel bearings,
a bottom bracket pretty soon looks like fairly familiar territory) using
bits I bought from ebay. Pretty soon the bike was in good nick, and riding
well...so I started some refinements. I added cleat pedals. Cannondales,
brand new, £15. Got some top of the range Shimano shoes to go with them:
£35. (True they'd been worn half a dozen times, but they fitted me perfectly
and I could never have squared new £120 shoes with 'er indores, so....) My
best coup was a super record rear mech, for which I paid something like £12,
including p&p. The Sun unit had been adequate but elderly, a bit inclined to
chatter and nag; with the SR everything suddenly became super-smooth and
positive. And then of course the new freewheel. Which gives me close ratios
where I need them, as against the 'one size fits all' block I had before,
which certainly didn't make best use of my options, given that I spend
relatively little time climbing 1 in 4s or going at 55 mph.

So, discounting the shoes, which can hardly be considered part of the bike,
I have paid in total something like £100 for a thoroughbred Italian racer
that's light, tight, eager and immeasurably faster and more responsive than
anything I've ever ridden before. Especially the old Peugeot piece of crap
for which I paid £62 hard-earned pounds (second hand) back in about 1976,
when £62 really was £62. I think I was getting £7.50 for my Saturday job at
the time, which gives you some idea. And now this! For a hundred quid! The
kind of bike that makes you simply pity anyone on a grand's worth of
mountain bike...but I'm sure that's a whole nother squabble...

ebay rocks!

Thanks again all.

DavidR
January 6th 07, 08:25 PM
"AP" > wrote

> Once everyone's advice had calmed me down and undauntificated me, I
> thought
> 'I can do this'. Found an ideal freewheel on ebay -
> Shimano,14,16,18,20,22,24,28 - brand new, with a starting price of £3.84
> +
>
> In the event I decided not to bother with cold-setting. 'Springing' the
> frame sounded like it might work, and would involve less risk, not to
> mention lengths of 4 x 2. The axle turned out to be too short,

I don't understand this. You were fitting a 7 speed which will fit in a 126
frame. What was the axle too short for and why spring the frame?

Are you saying that you spaced the hub for either of 130, 132 or 135 for
which the axle was too short and the frame too narrow? I think you could
take spacers out.

Rob Morley
January 7th 07, 12:14 PM
In article >, AP
says...
<snip>
> There's still a bit of fine-tuning to do. I still get a few spokes 'ticking'
> just ever so slightly on the reaer shifter when I'm riding hard up a steep
> hill in first. I tried to sort it out, but I think I just ended up making it
> marginally worse, so I decided to leave it for another day.

That would worry me. If it's only happening on hills your rear wheel is
probably flexing more than it should, and if the mech snags in a spoke
you can wreck your frame, wheel and mech in a moment.

Pete Biggs
January 7th 07, 02:37 PM
Rob Morley wrote:
> In article >, AP
> says...
> <snip>
>> There's still a bit of fine-tuning to do. I still get a few spokes
>> 'ticking' just ever so slightly on the reaer shifter when I'm riding
>> hard up a steep hill in first. I tried to sort it out, but I think I
>> just ended up making it marginally worse, so I decided to leave it
>> for another day.
>
> That would worry me. If it's only happening on hills your rear wheel
> is probably flexing more than it should, and if the mech snags in a
> spoke you can wreck your frame, wheel and mech in a moment.

Also, spokes could get scratched or scored just from the tickling, and
slightly damaged spokes are more likely to break. (It's rare for spokes to
break other than at the ends, but still you don't want to increase the
possibilty).

~PB

Simon Brooke
January 7th 07, 05:12 PM
in message >, AP
') wrote:

> In the event I decided not to bother with cold-setting. 'Springing' the
> frame sounded like it might work, and would involve less risk, not to
> mention lengths of 4 x 2. The axle turned out to be too short, but
> luckily I managed to cannabalise one off an old wheel that was just a few
> mm longer, and turned out to be just long enough. I moved the cones about
> and experimented with spacers...the first time I put it back on the bike
> it was more off-centre than it 'needed to be' (which was a fair bit in
> any case), so I moved a 1mm washer from one side to the other and...

The technique I used was with a length of threaded rod, two nuts, two
washers. You put the rod in the drop-outs, and wind the nuts apart to
spread them. You need to go a surprisingly long way past the width you're
aiming for, because the steel is springy. Take it a bit at a time - wind
out, slacken off, measure, wind out, slacken off, measure.

This is easy and not very risky. Obviously, for steel frames only.

--
(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; It's dangerous to be right when the government is wrong.
;; Voltaire RIP Dr David Kelly 1945-2004

Simon Brooke
January 7th 07, 05:15 PM
in message >, Rob Morley
') wrote:

> In article >, AP
> says...
> <snip>
>> There's still a bit of fine-tuning to do. I still get a few spokes
>> 'ticking' just ever so slightly on the reaer shifter when I'm riding
>> hard up a steep hill in first. I tried to sort it out, but I think I
>> just ended up making it marginally worse, so I decided to leave it for
>> another day.
>
> That would worry me. If it's only happening on hills your rear wheel is
> probably flexing more than it should, and if the mech snags in a spoke
> you can wreck your frame, wheel and mech in a moment.

Agreed. Fix that as a matter of priority.

--
(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; Usenet: like distance learning without the learning.

Tony Raven
January 7th 07, 06:28 PM
Simon Brooke wrote on 07/01/2007 17:12 +0100:
>
> The technique I used was with a length of threaded rod, two nuts, two
> washers. You put the rod in the drop-outs, and wind the nuts apart to
> spread them. You need to go a surprisingly long way past the width you're
> aiming for, because the steel is springy. Take it a bit at a time - wind
> out, slacken off, measure, wind out, slacken off, measure.
>

I've found an automotive spring compressor with the arms reversed does
the job beautifully. Just hook the arms over the chain stays with a bit
of cloth to protect the paint and turn the centre to crank the stays
apart. Its also useful for holding the stays at the new distance while
you apply a big wrench to the dropouts to get them back in alignment. YMMV

--
Tony

"...has many omissions and contains much that is apocryphal, or at least
wildly inaccurate..."
Douglas Adams; The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy

AP
January 8th 07, 01:15 PM
I was indeed fittng a 7-speed which needs a 126mm frame - but in a 120mm
frame. Hence the 'springing' and the washers.
"DavidR" > wrote in message
...
> "AP" > wrote
>
>> Once everyone's advice had calmed me down and undauntificated me, I
>> thought
>> 'I can do this'. Found an ideal freewheel on ebay -
>> Shimano,14,16,18,20,22,24,28 - brand new, with a starting price of £3.84
>> +
>>
>> In the event I decided not to bother with cold-setting. 'Springing' the
>> frame sounded like it might work, and would involve less risk, not to
>> mention lengths of 4 x 2. The axle turned out to be too short,
>
> I don't understand this. You were fitting a 7 speed which will fit in a
> 126 frame. What was the axle too short for and why spring the frame?
>
> Are you saying that you spaced the hub for either of 130, 132 or 135 for
> which the axle was too short and the frame too narrow? I think you could
> take spacers out.
>
>
>

AP
January 8th 07, 01:22 PM
I appreciate the concern, but I really don't think there's anything that
involves any kind of real risk going on. It's a minor irritant, no more. I'm
pretty certain the wheel's essentially ok. Certainly none of the spokes
feels anything but tight when tinged with a screwdriver or whatever. And the
ticking really is very slight - one or two whispered ticks per wheel rev -
nowhere near enough to raise fears of everything getting tangled, or even of
wear to the spokes. I'm sure I could ignore it safely pretty much
indefintely.

Having said which, I did wonder: might it be possible to ease the whole
freewheel just a whisker out, perhaps by mounting a thin (1/2mm?) washer
between the freewheel and the wheel? Would this work? Do such washers exist?
"Pete Biggs" > wrote in
message ...
> Rob Morley wrote:
>> In article >, AP
>> says...
>> <snip>
>>> There's still a bit of fine-tuning to do. I still get a few spokes
>>> 'ticking' just ever so slightly on the reaer shifter when I'm riding
>>> hard up a steep hill in first. I tried to sort it out, but I think I
>>> just ended up making it marginally worse, so I decided to leave it
>>> for another day.
>>
>> That would worry me. If it's only happening on hills your rear wheel
>> is probably flexing more than it should, and if the mech snags in a
>> spoke you can wreck your frame, wheel and mech in a moment.
>
> Also, spokes could get scratched or scored just from the tickling, and
> slightly damaged spokes are more likely to break. (It's rare for spokes
> to break other than at the ends, but still you don't want to increase the
> possibilty).
>
> ~PB
>

Pete Biggs
January 8th 07, 04:53 PM
AP wrote:
> I appreciate the concern, but I really don't think there's anything
> that involves any kind of real risk going on. It's a minor irritant,
> no more. I'm pretty certain the wheel's essentially ok. Certainly
> none of the spokes feels anything but tight when tinged with a
> screwdriver or whatever. And the ticking really is very slight - one
> or two whispered ticks per wheel rev - nowhere near enough to raise
> fears of everything getting tangled, or even of wear to the spokes.
> I'm sure I could ignore it safely pretty much indefintely.

A scratch can turn into a crack which can lead to a broken spoke.

> Having said which, I did wonder: might it be possible to ease the
> whole freewheel just a whisker out, perhaps by mounting a thin
> (1/2mm?) washer between the freewheel and the wheel? Would this work?

I don't know. It's been so long since I did anything with freewheels
(rather than cassettes).

> Do such washers exist?

I could send you a 0.5mm Marchisio cassette shim if it's any use, free of
charge. 35mm internal diameter, 42mm OD. Would that be the right size?

~PB
p at biggs dot tc

AP
January 8th 07, 09:07 PM
That's very kind of you, Pete - I really appreciate it. The hole in the
middle is 35mm, so I guess the size you're suggesting looks right. Gotta be
worth a try! And I take on board what you say about the tick...pretty much
anything, sentient or otherwise, might understandably get humpy about being
ticked, even slightly, thousands of times a day, every day. First proper
ride with the new setup today, by the way. What a transformation!
"Pete Biggs" > wrote in
message ...
> AP wrote:
> > I appreciate the concern, but I really don't think there's anything
> > that involves any kind of real risk going on. It's a minor irritant,
> > no more. I'm pretty certain the wheel's essentially ok. Certainly
> > none of the spokes feels anything but tight when tinged with a
> > screwdriver or whatever. And the ticking really is very slight - one
> > or two whispered ticks per wheel rev - nowhere near enough to raise
> > fears of everything getting tangled, or even of wear to the spokes.
> > I'm sure I could ignore it safely pretty much indefintely.
>
> A scratch can turn into a crack which can lead to a broken spoke.
>
> > Having said which, I did wonder: might it be possible to ease the
> > whole freewheel just a whisker out, perhaps by mounting a thin
> > (1/2mm?) washer between the freewheel and the wheel? Would this work?
>
> I don't know. It's been so long since I did anything with freewheels
> (rather than cassettes).
>
> > Do such washers exist?
>
> I could send you a 0.5mm Marchisio cassette shim if it's any use, free of
> charge. 35mm internal diameter, 42mm OD. Would that be the right size?
>
> ~PB
> p at biggs dot tc
>
>

DavidR
January 8th 07, 11:24 PM
"AP" > wrote
> "DavidR" > wrote
>>
>> I don't understand this. You were fitting a 7 speed which will fit in a
>> 126 frame. What was the axle too short for and why spring the frame?
>>
>> Are you saying that you spaced the hub for either of 130, 132 or 135 for
>> which the axle was too short and the frame too narrow? I think you could
>> take spacers out.
>>

>I was indeed fittng a 7-speed which needs a 126mm frame - but in a 120mm
>frame. Hence the 'springing' and the washers.
>
Ah, understood.

Rob Morley
January 9th 07, 01:21 AM
In article >, AP
says...

> Having said which, I did wonder: might it be possible to ease the whole
> freewheel just a whisker out, perhaps by mounting a thin (1/2mm?) washer
> between the freewheel and the wheel? Would this work? Do such washers exist?

They certainly used to - they're called freewheel spacers. :-) I don't
think you'll find a 0.5mm one though.

Tony Raven
January 9th 07, 08:11 AM
Rob Morley wrote on 09/01/2007 01:21 +0100:
> In article >, AP
> says...
>
>> Having said which, I did wonder: might it be possible to ease the whole
>> freewheel just a whisker out, perhaps by mounting a thin (1/2mm?) washer
>> between the freewheel and the wheel? Would this work? Do such washers exist?
>
> They certainly used to - they're called freewheel spacers. :-) I don't
> think you'll find a 0.5mm one though.
>

And I doubt 0.5mm will be enough

--
Tony

"...has many omissions and contains much that is apocryphal, or at least
wildly inaccurate..."
Douglas Adams; The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy

AP
January 9th 07, 11:10 AM
Well, Pete's kindly sending me one, so we'll find out soon enough! I will of
course report triumph or disaster.
"Tony Raven" > wrote in message
...
> Rob Morley wrote on 09/01/2007 01:21 +0100:
>> In article >, AP
>> says...
>>
>>> Having said which, I did wonder: might it be possible to ease the whole
>>> freewheel just a whisker out, perhaps by mounting a thin (1/2mm?) washer
>>> between the freewheel and the wheel? Would this work? Do such washers
>>> exist?
>>
>> They certainly used to - they're called freewheel spacers. :-) I don't
>> think you'll find a 0.5mm one though.
>>
>
> And I doubt 0.5mm will be enough
>
> --
> Tony
>
> "...has many omissions and contains much that is apocryphal, or at least
> wildly inaccurate..."
> Douglas Adams; The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy

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