Pedal crank keeps coming loose.

[Alan]

Hello

I wonder if anyone could give me a clue about what might be happening with my
bike (a no-name MTB).

I've had it about 3 1/2 years and it's used daily.

Last week I noticed a slight clunk when pressing down on the left pedal - one
that could be felt but not heard. I assumed a bearing was going.

A few days later the crank became loose.

I bought a tool to retighten the nut that holds it onto the bar that runs
through the bottom bracket (sorry, I don't know the correct term for that -
pedal axel?).

What is odd, though is that no matter how hard a tighten it withing 5 minutes of
use the nut had unscrewed and the crank is loose. Also, even when tight, when
pressing down on the left pedal it makes a sort of creaking sound.

Any suggestions would be gratefully received.

Alan

[John]

"Alan" > wrote in message
...
> Hello
>
> I wonder if anyone could give me a clue about what might be happening with
> my
> bike (a no-name MTB).
>
> I've had it about 3 1/2 years and it's used daily.
>
> Last week I noticed a slight clunk when pressing down on the left pedal -
> one
> that could be felt but not heard. I assumed a bearing was going.
>
> A few days later the crank became loose.
>
> I bought a tool to retighten the nut that holds it onto the bar that runs
> through the bottom bracket (sorry, I don't know the correct term for
> that -
> pedal axel?).
>
> What is odd, though is that no matter how hard a tighten it withing 5
> minutes of
> use the nut had unscrewed and the crank is loose. Also, even when tight,
> when
> pressing down on the left pedal it makes a sort of creaking sound.
>
> Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
>
> Alan


Hi try here, http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=123

John

[vernon]

"Alan" > wrote in message
...
> Hello
>
> Last week I noticed a slight clunk when pressing down on the left pedal -
> one
> that could be felt but not heard. I assumed a bearing was going.
>
> A few days later the crank became loose.
>
> I bought a tool to retighten the nut that holds it onto the bar that runs
> through the bottom bracket (sorry, I don't know the correct term for
> that -
> pedal axel?).
>
> What is odd, though is that no matter how hard a tighten it withing 5
> minutes of
> use the nut had unscrewed and the crank is loose. Also, even when tight,
> when
> pressing down on the left pedal it makes a sort of creaking sound.
>
> Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
>
> Alan
>
The permanent fix is to fit a new crank which probably means buying a
complete chainset. Sadly what has happened to you is that the crank has
worked loose and the clunking around the square bottom bracket has worn a
shoulder or raised a ridge inside the square housing of the crank. You will
not get a snug fit on the crank no matter how hard you try and the crank
will always work loose. I had this happen to me on an Audax ride last year
and despite several tightenings the crank bolt loosesened itself enough to
fall off leading to the loss of the left hand crank. I had to pedal 4 - 5
miles one legged before I got to a bike shop in Ripon and a replacement
chain set was fitted.

-=V=-

[Peter Amey]

vernon wrote:
> "Alan" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>Hello
>>
>>Last week I noticed a slight clunk when pressing down on the left pedal -
>>one
>>that could be felt but not heard. I assumed a bearing was going.
>>
>>A few days later the crank became loose.
>>
[snip]
>>
>>Alan
>>
>
> The permanent fix is to fit a new crank which probably means buying a
> complete chainset. [snip]

I was able to buy a LH crank on its own from the LBS earlier this week.
About £8 ISTR. It was for the the Peugot "racer" I mentioned in an
earlier thread which had a damaged crank taper exactly as you describe.

Peter

>


--
www.amey.org.uk

[Alan]

On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 17:38:26 -0000, "vernon" > wrote:

>The permanent fix is to fit a new crank which probably means buying a
>complete chainset. Sadly what has happened to you is that the crank has
>worked loose and the clunking around the square bottom bracket has worn a
>shoulder or raised a ridge inside the square housing of the crank. You will
>not get a snug fit on the crank no matter how hard you try and the crank
>will always work loose. I had this happen to me on an Audax ride last year
>and despite several tightenings the crank bolt loosesened itself enough to
>fall off leading to the loss of the left hand crank. I had to pedal 4 - 5
>miles one legged before I got to a bike shop in Ripon and a replacement
>chain set was fitted.

This does seem to be what has happened. I looked on Wiggle for cranks, but they
all cost stupid money. You could get two bikes from Sterling House for the price
they want for a pair of cranks. (All right, not ones you'd actually want to
ride, but you get my point).

It's not like Wiggle not to be able to supply what you need. Am I searching for
the wrong thing (Cranks)? There are more crank tools than cranks.

[Alan]

On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 12:35:22 -0600, mb > wrote:

>On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 18:27:33 +0000, Alan wrote:
>
>>
>> It's not like Wiggle not to be able to supply what you need. Am I searching for
>> the wrong thing (Cranks)? There are more crank tools than cranks.
>
>You could also search for "chainset".

Unfortunately, again, only for stupid money.

This is a basic part that should only cost a tenner or so. (I only need the left
crank).

I'm rather perplexed.

[Matthew Haigh]

Alan wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 12:35:22 -0600, mb > wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 18:27:33 +0000, Alan wrote:
>>
>>> It's not like Wiggle not to be able to supply what you need. Am I searching for
>>> the wrong thing (Cranks)? There are more crank tools than cranks.
>> You could also search for "chainset".
>
> Unfortunately, again, only for stupid money.
>
> This is a basic part that should only cost a tenner or so. (I only need the left
> crank).
>
> I'm rather perplexed.

Try ebay - a quick search for left crank brought in a few. Changing the
search terms could find more - but measure the one you've got (if it
doesn't have a length stamped on it), they do come in different lengths.
Also, look carefully at the fitting; you'll probably have square taper,
some of these have octalink (splined) fittings.

Matt

[vernon]

"Alan" > wrote in message
...
> On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 12:35:22 -0600, mb > wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 18:27:33 +0000, Alan wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> It's not like Wiggle not to be able to supply what you need. Am I
>>> searching for
>>> the wrong thing (Cranks)? There are more crank tools than cranks.
>>
>>You could also search for "chainset".
>
> Unfortunately, again, only for stupid money.
>
> This is a basic part that should only cost a tenner or so. (I only need
> the left
> crank).
>
> I'm rather perplexed.
>
Have a look at www.sjscycles.co.uk click on tranmission then crank sets,
you'll find a range of LH cranks from around £9.00 + p&p they all seem to
be 170mm long. I recall reading some debate somewhere where someone arguing
that equal cranklengths being essential and their argument being blasted out
of the water by someone who discovered that they'd been riding with
different crank lengths for several months and hadn't noticed.

Good luck with your search.

-=V=-

[Simon D]

Alan brought next idea :
>
> I looked on Wiggle for cranks, but
> they all cost stupid money. You could get two bikes from Sterling House for
> the price they want for a pair of cranks. (All right, not ones you'd actually
> want to ride, but you get my point).
>
> It's not like Wiggle not to be able to supply what you need. Am I searching
> for the wrong thing (Cranks)? There are more crank tools than cranks.

There's no way you should have to buy a complete chainset (unless,
possibly, you want a perfect match), or indeed pay silly money for a
left-hand crank (unless you're trying to match an expensive model,
obviously).

What are the markings on the existing crank? If it's Shimano, for
example, it will have a part number starting FC***** . Shimano's UK
agents used to (It's been a few years since I was in the trade) hold
good stocks of replacement cranks, which were reasonably priced
(£10-ish for the basic models). You'll need to know the length, too -
it will probably be stamped on the crank somewhere.

Post back here with any clues about the identity of the chainset (the
cranks and chainrings combined) and I or someone else will probably be
able to suggest a source for a reasonably-priced replacement.

--
Simon

[MJP]

"Alan" > wrote in message
...
> On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 12:35:22 -0600, mb > wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 18:27:33 +0000, Alan wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> It's not like Wiggle not to be able to supply what you need. Am I
>>> searching for
>>> the wrong thing (Cranks)? There are more crank tools than cranks.
>>
>>You could also search for "chainset".
>
> Unfortunately, again, only for stupid money.
>
> This is a basic part that should only cost a tenner or so. (I only need
> the left
> crank).
>
> I'm rather perplexed.

If you know someone with reasonable engineering skills, get the crank
internal mating faces made true i.e flat and at 90 degrees to each other.
This will make the crank a loose fit on the axle but with the correct
geometry.
This looseness can then be compensated for by the judicious use of something
like, brass or stainless steel shims.

[vernon]

"MJP" > wrote in message
reenews.net...
>

> If you know someone with reasonable engineering skills, get the crank
> internal mating faces made true i.e flat and at 90 degrees to each other.
> This will make the crank a loose fit on the axle but with the correct
> geometry.
> This looseness can then be compensated for by the judicious use of
> something like, brass or stainless steel shims.
Been there, done that, doesn't work. One has to get the taper *exactly*
correct - there's no room for error. The effort to sort out the problem
quite simply isn't worth it. Finding the: 'someone with reasonable
engineering skills' needs to accompanied with them having access to
reasonable engineering facilities. Such folk as as rare as the mythical
'KeilKraft long grass' that the eponymous manufacturer urged its customers
to test glide their freshly constructed model aeroplanes over.

[Don Whybrow]

vernon wrote:
>
> Have a look at www.sjscycles.co.uk click on tranmission then crank sets,
> you'll find a range of LH cranks from around £9.00 + p&p they all seem to
> be 170mm long. I recall reading some debate somewhere where someone arguing
> that equal cranklengths being essential and their argument being blasted out
> of the water by someone who discovered that they'd been riding with
> different crank lengths for several months and hadn't noticed.
>
> Good luck with your search.

I rode around for a while with unequal crank lengths after the LBS
stripped the threads when trying to remove an old set of pedals. The
only LH crank they had in stock was 5 mm longer than the RH one. I never
noticed after a few miles.

One other thing to watch out for is the orientation of the square hole
in the crank. Some are in line with the crank and others are at 45
degrees so you either have a square or diamond hole. If you fit
different ones to different sides, it could make peddling awkward.


--
Don Whybrow

Sequi Bonum Non Time

Evolution is a harsh mistress.

[Sandy Morton]

In article >, Alan
> wrote:
> What is odd, though is that no matter how hard a tighten it withing
> 5 minutes of use the nut had unscrewed and the crank is loose.
> Also, even when tight, when pressing down on the left pedal it
> makes a sort of creaking sound.

> Any suggestions would be gratefully received.

Sorry to be late on this one - I was Curling today.

Don't think about replacing it - the taper will have belled and will
be useless on a bike but don't throw it away.

Your LBS will be able to sell you one and give you change from a
tenner - if you want them to fit it a tenner should suffice.

Arguments start!

Don't grease it but fit it dry and belt it up as tightly as you can -
oil on the bolt/nut is OK. I use a Campag ratchet with a bit of gas
pipe welded to the handle for extra leverage. I don't get returns.

Arguments end!

The old crank would be valuable to many Model Engineers since it is
normally made of good quality alloy - I have made a few 1cc engines
using them and a few other bits and pieces

--
T h e - e x t e n d e r ! ! ! !

[MJP]

"mb" > wrote in message
...
> On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 21:21:50 +0000, MJP wrote:
>
>>
>> If you know someone with reasonable engineering skills, get the crank
>> internal mating faces made true i.e flat and at 90 degrees to each other.
>> This will make the crank a loose fit on the axle but with the correct
>> geometry.
>> This looseness can then be compensated for by the judicious use of
>> something
>> like, brass or stainless steel shims.
>
> You don't seem to know what you're talking about. Go away.
>
> --
You are not an engineer then?

[Rob Morley]

In article >, Alan
says...
> On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 12:35:22 -0600, mb > wrote:
>
> >On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 18:27:33 +0000, Alan wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> It's not like Wiggle not to be able to supply what you need. Am I searching for
> >> the wrong thing (Cranks)? There are more crank tools than cranks.
> >
> >You could also search for "chainset".
>
> Unfortunately, again, only for stupid money.
>
> This is a basic part that should only cost a tenner or so. (I only need the left
> crank).
>
> I'm rather perplexed.
>
>
http://froogle.google.co.uk/froogle?q=left-hand-crank&scoring=p

[Rob Morley]

In article ws.net>,
MJP
says...
>
> "mb" > wrote in message
> ...
> > On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 21:21:50 +0000, MJP wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> If you know someone with reasonable engineering skills, get the crank
> >> internal mating faces made true i.e flat and at 90 degrees to each other.
> >> This will make the crank a loose fit on the axle but with the correct
> >> geometry.
> >> This looseness can then be compensated for by the judicious use of
> >> something
> >> like, brass or stainless steel shims.
> >
> > You don't seem to know what you're talking about. Go away.
> >
> >
> You are not an engineer then?
>
A replacement crank will cost him a tenner - what do you think the cost
would be to do a one-off machining job like that even if he could find
someone with the right kit who was willing to do it? And he'd still
have a crank that didn't fit properly.

[Tony Raven]

MJP wrote on 21/01/2007 01:11 +0100:
> "mb" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 21:21:50 +0000, MJP wrote:
>>
>>> If you know someone with reasonable engineering skills, get the crank
>>> internal mating faces made true i.e flat and at 90 degrees to each other.
>>> This will make the crank a loose fit on the axle but with the correct
>>> geometry.
>>> This looseness can then be compensated for by the judicious use of
>>> something
>>> like, brass or stainless steel shims.
>> You don't seem to know what you're talking about. Go away.
>>
>> --
> You are not an engineer then?
>
>

I am and I'm with mb.

--
Tony

"...has many omissions and contains much that is apocryphal, or at least
wildly inaccurate..."
Douglas Adams; The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy

[Simon Brooke]

in message >, Sandy Morton
') wrote:

> In article >, Alan
> > wrote:
>> What is odd, though is that no matter how hard a tighten it withing
>> 5 minutes of use the nut had unscrewed and the crank is loose.
>> Also, even when tight, when pressing down on the left pedal it
>> makes a sort of creaking sound.
>
>> Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
>
> Sorry to be late on this one - I was Curling today.

Where!? Oh, indoor, I presume.

Is there ever going to be a winter?

--
(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
;; Sending your money to someone just because they've erected
;; a barrier of obscurity and secrets around the tools you
;; need to use your data does not help the economy or spur
;; innovation. - Waffle Iron Slashdot, June 16th, 2002

[Simon Brooke]

in message ws.net>, MJP
') wrote:

>
> "mb" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 21:21:50 +0000, MJP wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> If you know someone with reasonable engineering skills, get the crank
>>> internal mating faces made true i.e flat and at 90 degrees to each
>>> other. This will make the crank a loose fit on the axle but with the
>>> correct geometry.
>>> This looseness can then be compensated for by the judicious use of
>>> something
>>> like, brass or stainless steel shims.
>>
>> You don't seem to know what you're talking about. Go away.
>>
> You are not an engineer then?

There's a difference between what can be done in theory, and what can
practicably and economically be done in practice. The taper on the crank
needs to match the taper on the bottom bracket axle very precisely. And
new cranks aren't worth ten minutes of an engineer's time.

--
(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
"This young man has not the faintest idea how socialists think and does
not begin to understand the mentality of the party he has been elected
to lead. He is quite simply a liberal"
-- Ken Coates MEP (Lab) of Tony Blair

[Alan]

On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 17:28:38 GMT, (Alan) wrote:

>Any suggestions would be gratefully received.

Thank you all very much for all the help.

MJP, your idea would be good if you had a vintage bike and could not get an
authentic spare, but I think too much effort for a common, £10, part.

I have a friend, an ex toolmaker, who would have loved to do a job like that
just for the challenge, but he no longer has access to the tools required, and I
wouldn't have asked him in this case given the low cost of a replacement.

Alan

[Ben C]

On 2007-01-21, Sandy Morton > wrote:
> In article >, Alan
> wrote:
>> What is odd, though is that no matter how hard a tighten it withing
>> 5 minutes of use the nut had unscrewed and the crank is loose.
>> Also, even when tight, when pressing down on the left pedal it
>> makes a sort of creaking sound.
>
>> Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
>
> Sorry to be late on this one - I was Curling today.
>
> Don't think about replacing it - the taper will have belled and will
> be useless on a bike but don't throw it away.
>
> Your LBS will be able to sell you one and give you change from a
> tenner - if you want them to fit it a tenner should suffice.
>
> Arguments start!
>
> Don't grease it but fit it dry and belt it up as tightly as you can -
> oil on the bolt/nut is OK. I use a Campag ratchet with a bit of gas
> pipe welded to the handle for extra leverage. I don't get returns.

Never do anything up on a bike "as tightly as you can"! Bikes are
fragile and threads strip easily, and there are few things worse than
the sense of despair after stripping a thread.

> Arguments end!

[Pete Biggs]

Ben C wrote:
> On 2007-01-21, Sandy Morton > wrote:

>> Arguments start!
>>
>> Don't grease it but fit it dry and belt it up as tightly as you can -
>> oil on the bolt/nut is OK. I use a Campag ratchet with a bit of gas
>> pipe welded to the handle for extra leverage. I don't get returns.

This article does the arguing:
http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8f.11.html

> Never do anything up on a bike "as tightly as you can"! Bikes are
> fragile and threads strip easily, and there are few things worse than
> the sense of despair after stripping a thread.

Depends on component and tool. With a short basic allen key, for example,
you'd have to be the world's strongest man to do a square-taper crank up
tightly enough, let alone too tightly. But you need to be careful not to
overdo it when using a long wrench. The crank can end up too far up the
spindle.

~PB

[Buck]

On 2007-01-21 11:07:34 +0000, "Pete Biggs"
> said:

> Ben C wrote:
>> On 2007-01-21, Sandy Morton > wrote:
>
>>> Arguments start!
>>>
>>> Don't grease it but fit it dry and belt it up as tightly as you can -
>>> oil on the bolt/nut is OK. I use a Campag ratchet with a bit of gas
>>> pipe welded to the handle for extra leverage. I don't get returns.
>
> This article does the arguing:
> http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8f.11.html
>
>> Never do anything up on a bike "as tightly as you can"! Bikes are
>> fragile and threads strip easily, and there are few things worse than
>> the sense of despair after stripping a thread.
>
> Depends on component and tool. With a short basic allen key, for
> example, you'd have to be the world's strongest man to do a
> square-taper crank up tightly enough, let alone too tightly. But you
> need to be careful not to overdo it when using a long wrench. The
> crank can end up too far up the spindle.
>
> ~PB

The correct torque for this is between 35 and 40 pounds feet assuming
it is a square taper bb and in reasonable condition.
--
Three wheels good, two wheels ok

www.catrike.co.uk

[Tony Raven]

Simon Brooke wrote on 21/01/2007 08:18 +0100:
>
> There's a difference between what can be done in theory, and what can
> practicably and economically be done in practice. The taper on the crank
> needs to match the taper on the bottom bracket axle very precisely. And
> new cranks aren't worth ten minutes of an engineer's time.
>

....and the axle is very very hard.

--
Tony

"...has many omissions and contains much that is apocryphal, or at least
wildly inaccurate..."
Douglas Adams; The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy

[Simon Brooke]

in message >, Ben C
') wrote:

> On 2007-01-21, Sandy Morton > wrote:
>> In article >, Alan
>
>> Don't grease it but fit it dry and belt it up as tightly as you can -
>> oil on the bolt/nut is OK. I use a Campag ratchet with a bit of gas
>> pipe welded to the handle for extra leverage. I don't get returns.
>
> Never do anything up on a bike "as tightly as you can"! Bikes are
> fragile and threads strip easily, and there are few things worse than
> the sense of despair after stripping a thread.

While I personally wouldn't do anything on my bikes up as tightly as I can,
I know better than to teach Sandy to suck eggs. Sandy does more bicycle
maintenance - on more bicycles - in a month than most of us will do in a
lifetime.

--
(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

A message from our sponsor: This site is now in free fall

[Mike Sales]

"Alan" > wrote in message
...
> On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 17:28:38 GMT, (Alan) wrote:
>
> >Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
>
> Thank you all very much for all the help.
>
> MJP, your idea would be good if you had a vintage bike and could not get
an
> authentic spare, but I think too much effort for a common, £10, part.
>
> I have a friend, an ex toolmaker, who would have loved to do a job like
that
> just for the challenge, but he no longer has access to the tools required,
and I
> wouldn't have asked him in this case given the low cost of a replacement.
>
> Alan
I have more than once filed the distortion out of the flats on a crank. It
worked fine, though one went enough further onto the axle that it contacted
the axle shoulders before it was`snugly tight on the taper. So I ground
enough alloy off the inside of the crank to allow it to go on fully. Worked
fine. My hand skills and engineering knowledge are poor.
The sane thing to do is buy a new one for less than a tenner from any
half way decent bike shop. But why not give it a try with a file?
Mike Sales

[David Martin]

Mike Sales wrote:

> I have more than once filed the distortion out of the flats on a crank. It
> worked fine, though one went enough further onto the axle that it contacted
> the axle shoulders before it was`snugly tight on the taper. So I ground
> enough alloy off the inside of the crank to allow it to go on fully. Worked
> fine. My hand skills and engineering knowledge are poor.
> The sane thing to do is buy a new one for less than a tenner from any
> half way decent bike shop. But why not give it a try with a file?

Great idea. I'll remember that next time I am 20 miles from the nearest
town on a Saturday night in the depths of the highlands and my cheapo
bodged crank breaks.

Worth a try, but don't ride further than you can comfortably walk home.

...d

[Jim Higson]

Sandy Morton wrote:

> Don't grease it but fit it dry and belt it up as tightly as you can -
> oil on the bolt/nut is OK. I use a Campag ratchet with a bit of gas
> pipe welded to the handle for extra leverage. I don't get returns.

Literally as tight as you can get?

I normally use an 8mm allen key in about 75cm of steel pipe. I press the end
down not very hard at all (which is still much, much more torque than I
could get with a normal length wrench)

Should I just tighten it as much as I can next time, or is that asking for
trouble?

[Jim Higson]

mb wrote:

> On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 20:41:50 +0000, Jim Higson wrote:
>
>> Sandy Morton wrote:
>>
>>> Don't grease it but fit it dry and belt it up as tightly as you can -
>>> oil on the bolt/nut is OK. I use a Campag ratchet with a bit of gas
>>> pipe welded to the handle for extra leverage. I don't get returns.
>>
>> Literally as tight as you can get?
>>
>> I normally use an 8mm allen key in about 75cm of steel pipe. I press the
>> end down not very hard at all (which is still much, much more torque than
>> I could get with a normal length wrench)
>>
>> Should I just tighten it as much as I can next time, or is that asking
>> for trouble?
>
> As tight as possible, with a 75cm lever? I would say that's asking for
> trouble.

That's what I was thinking, and why I don't.

[Sandy Morton]

In article >, Simon
Brooke > wrote:
> in message >, Ben C
> ') wrote:

> > On 2007-01-21, Sandy Morton > wrote:
> >> In article >, Alan
> >
> >> Don't grease it but fit it dry and belt it up as tightly as you
> >> can - oil on the bolt/nut is OK. I use a Campag ratchet with a
> >> bit of gas pipe welded to the handle for extra leverage. I
> >> don't get returns.
> >
> > Never do anything up on a bike "as tightly as you can"! Bikes are
> > fragile and threads strip easily, and there are few things worse
> > than the sense of despair after stripping a thread.

> While I personally wouldn't do anything on my bikes up as tightly
> as I can, I know better than to teach Sandy to suck eggs.

40ish years of practical experiance (sp) before tapered botton
bracket cranks were invented. I still have a bag of untapered cotter
pins if anyone needs some.

> Sandy does more bicycle maintenance

I buy WD40, Grease, Oil, Plus Gas, GT85, Chrome Cleaner and Polish in
the largest quatities which I economically can

> - on more bicycles

I am the smallest Cycle Hirer on the Bicycle Island- not by waist
line size - but I only have about 160 hiring cycles

> - in a month than most of us will do in a lifetime.

I enjoy hiring cycles to the great unwashed and I love getting my
hands dirty.

I'm happy I hope that you are too

[Pete Biggs]

Buck wrote:

> The correct torque for this is between 35 and 40 pounds feet assuming
> it is a square taper bb and in reasonable condition.

Campag say 32 to 38 Nm (23.6 to 28 lb ft).

That's with dry spindles.

Personally I use about 36 Nm with greased spindles.

~PB

[Rob Morley]

In article >, Mike Sales
says...

> I have more than once filed the distortion out of the flats on a crank. It
> worked fine, though one went enough further onto the axle that it contacted
> the axle shoulders before it was`snugly tight on the taper. So I ground
> enough alloy off the inside of the crank to allow it to go on fully. Worked
> fine. My hand skills and engineering knowledge are poor.
>
Sometimes you can get away with just cleaning up the taper with a fine
file, thoroughly degreasing everything and whacking it on good and
tight. When the taper has stretched, rather than filing it back I've
made a shim from a bit of Coke can, and it's worked fine (fiddly to cut
the right shape though).

[ian henden]

"Peter Amey" > wrote in message
...
> vernon wrote:
>> "Alan" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>>Hello
>>>
>>>Last week I noticed a slight clunk when pressing down on the left pedal -
>>>one
>>>that could be felt but not heard. I assumed a bearing was going.
>>>
>>>A few days later the crank became loose.
>>>
> [snip]
>>>
>>>Alan
>>>
>>
>> The permanent fix is to fit a new crank which probably means buying a
>> complete chainset. [snip]
>
New cotter pin???

[Danny Colyer]

ian henden suggested:
> New cotter pin???

YA Alan Holmes AICMFP.

--
Danny Colyer <URL:http://www.colyer.plus.com/danny/>
Reply address is valid, but that on my website is checked more often
"He who dares not offend cannot be honest." - Thomas Paine

[Alan Braggins]

Danny Colyer wrote:
>ian henden suggested:
>> New cotter pin???
>
>YA Alan Holmes AICMFP.

Oi, I have a bike with cotter pins (and fitted new ones not that long ago),
and I am _not_ Alan Holmes.