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Roger Ehrlich - CSCI/F1998
July 24th 03, 05:15 PM
I'm trying to remove my rear cogs - Older Suntour® two notched- FR-2, I
have this tool. as per instructions on
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml
*
I can't for the life of me get this cassette off the hub. I'm using > 75
ft-lbs of torque, and it still won't budge. There is no lockring, but
there is something more than the illustrations on the page shows. If I
look into the 2 notches there are 2 metal notches that seem to be from a
washer inside the hub, but right now they are not in a position to block
the freewheel from coming off, (ie: they are not againstthe notch wall).
I have also used WD40 & Liquid Wrench and there does not appear to
be any rust either. Any suggestions?

The cog cassette itself appears to be a 2 piece unit. Gears 9-12 - 2
smallest cogs is 1st piece, gears 1-8 on 4 cogs is the 2nd unit. It's
possible that the cogs for gears 1-8 are seperate pieces. I've cleaned the
cassette w/ varsol but cannot really tell unless I remove it. There is a
washer seperating these 2 pieces. However it appears that the Suntour
fastener that I use the FR-2 tool for afixes the entire cassette on the hub.
So I don't think I need chainwhip tools. There also appears to be NO
lockring on the cassette.

Thanks for your help, Roger

Sheldon Brown
July 24th 03, 06:13 PM
Roger Ehrlich - CSCI/F1998 wrote:
> I'm trying to remove my rear cogs - Older Suntour® two notched- FR-2, I
> have this tool. as per instructions on
> http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml
>
> I can't for the life of me get this cassette off the hub. I'm using > 75
> ft-lbs of torque, and it still won't budge. There is no lockring, but
> there is something more than the illustrations on the page shows. If I
> look into the 2 notches there are 2 metal notches that seem to be from a
> washer inside the hub, but right now they are not in a position to block
> the freewheel from coming off, (ie: they are not againstthe notch wall).
> I have also used WD40 & Liquid Wrench and there does not appear to
> be any rust either. Any suggestions?
>
> The cog cassette itself appears to be a 2 piece unit. Gears 9-12 - 2
> smallest cogs is 1st piece, gears 1-8 on 4 cogs is the 2nd unit. It's
> possible that the cogs for gears 1-8 are seperate pieces. I've cleaned the
> cassette w/ varsol but cannot really tell unless I remove it. There is a
> washer seperating these 2 pieces. However it appears that the Suntour
> fastener that I use the FR-2 tool for afixes the entire cassette on the hub.
> So I don't think I need chainwhip tools. There also appears to be NO
> lockring on the cassette.

I think you're a bit confused here...if the FR-2 fits, it is _not_ a
cassette, it's a freewheel.

Freewheels are tightened onto the hub threads by the action of pedaling,
so they commonly require a great deal of force to unscrew them. This is
one of the major faults of this system.

There are detailed instructions at http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

Sheldon "Unnnnnnggghhh!" Brown
+-------------------------------------------------------------+
| If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough! |
| --BOB Simon |
+-------------------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

Alex Rodriguez
July 24th 03, 07:51 PM
In article >,
says...
>
>
>I'm trying to remove my rear cogs - Older Suntour® two notched- FR-2, I
>have this tool. as per instructions on
>http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml
>*
>I can't for the life of me get this cassette off the hub. I'm using > 75
>ft-lbs of torque, and it still won't budge. There is no lockring, but
>there is something more than the illustrations on the page shows. If I
>look into the 2 notches there are 2 metal notches that seem to be from a
>washer inside the hub, but right now they are not in a position to block
>the freewheel from coming off, (ie: they are not againstthe notch wall).
>I have also used WD40 & Liquid Wrench and there does not appear to
>be any rust either. Any suggestions?
>
>The cog cassette itself appears to be a 2 piece unit. Gears 9-12 - 2
>smallest cogs is 1st piece, gears 1-8 on 4 cogs is the 2nd unit. It's
>possible that the cogs for gears 1-8 are seperate pieces. I've cleaned the
>cassette w/ varsol but cannot really tell unless I remove it. There is a
>washer seperating these 2 pieces. However it appears that the Suntour
>fastener that I use the FR-2 tool for afixes the entire cassette on the hub.
>So I don't think I need chainwhip tools. There also appears to be NO
>lockring on the cassette.

Get a bigger wrench. Seriously, you need a nice big wrench to remove a
freewheel, which is what you have, from your hub. Or, if you are lucky
enough to have a solidly mounted vice, use the vice to hold the tool and
spind the wheel.
-----------------
Alex __O
_-\<,_
(_)/ (_)

patrick mitchel
July 24th 03, 07:55 PM
Alex Rodriguez > wrote in message
...
> In article
>,
> says...
> >
> >
> >I'm trying to remove my rear cogs - Older Suntour® two notched- FR-2, I
> >have this tool. as per instructions on
> >http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml
> >
> >I can't for the life of me get this cassette off the hub. I'm using > 75
> >ft-lbs of torque, and it still won't budge. There is no lockring, but
> >there is something more than the illustrations on the page shows. If I
> >look into the 2 notches there are 2 metal notches that seem to be from a
> >washer inside the hub, but right now they are not in a position to block
> >the freewheel from coming off, (ie: they are not againstthe notch wall).
> >I have also used WD40 & Liquid Wrench and there does not appear to
> >be any rust either. Any suggestions?
> >
> >The cog cassette itself appears to be a 2 piece unit. Gears 9-12 - 2
> >smallest cogs is 1st piece, gears 1-8 on 4 cogs is the 2nd unit. It's
> >possible that the cogs for gears 1-8 are seperate pieces. I've cleaned
the
> >cassette w/ varsol but cannot really tell unless I remove it. There is a
> >washer seperating these 2 pieces. However it appears that the Suntour
> >fastener that I use the FR-2 tool for afixes the entire cassette on the
hub.
> >So I don't think I need chainwhip tools. There also appears to be NO
> >lockring on the cassette.
>
> Get a bigger wrench. Seriously, you need a nice big wrench to remove a
> freewheel, which is what you have, from your hub. Or, if you are lucky
> enough to have a solidly mounted vice, use the vice to hold the tool and
> spind the wheel.
> -----------------
> Alex __O
> _-\<,_
> (_)/ (_)
>
I use an 12" crescent wrench with a 36" pipe "cheater" extension to do the
deed

A Muzi
July 24th 03, 10:55 PM
"Roger Ehrlich - CSCI/F1998" > wrote in message
...
> I'm trying to remove my rear cogs - Older Suntour® two notched- FR-2, I
> have this tool. as per instructions on
> http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml
>
> I can't for the life of me get this cassette off the hub. I'm using > 75
> ft-lbs of torque, and it still won't budge. There is no lockring, but
> there is something more than the illustrations on the page shows. If I
> look into the 2 notches there are 2 metal notches that seem to be from a
> washer inside the hub, but right now they are not in a position to block
> the freewheel from coming off, (ie: they are not againstthe notch wall).
> I have also used WD40 & Liquid Wrench and there does not appear to
> be any rust either. Any suggestions?
>
> The cog cassette itself appears to be a 2 piece unit. Gears 9-12 - 2
> smallest cogs is 1st piece, gears 1-8 on 4 cogs is the 2nd unit. It's
> possible that the cogs for gears 1-8 are seperate pieces. I've cleaned the
> cassette w/ varsol but cannot really tell unless I remove it. There is a
> washer seperating these 2 pieces. However it appears that the Suntour
> fastener that I use the FR-2 tool for afixes the entire cassette on the
hub.
> So I don't think I need chainwhip tools. There also appears to be NO
> lockring on the cassette.
>
> Thanks for your help, Roger


The freewheel is attached to the hub as tightly as you standing up on a hill
in low gear. In fact, that's how you tightened it on.

You 'll need to secure the remover into the freewheel with the skewer or an
axle nut (so the tool does not cam out). Now mount the remover securely in
a well-mounted vise and unscrew the wheel from it. Be sure to stop and
loosen the skewer after the freewheel begins to turn.

"75lbs of torque"is pathetically out of scale for this job. It is on
_tightly_.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Chris Zacho The Wheelman
July 24th 03, 11:24 PM
Sounds to me what you got is not a freeHUB, but a freeWHEEL. Unlike
freehubs, these are totally separate units. And a B!%=E7# to remove.

If you have a bench vise, take the tool, insert it into it's slots in
the freewheel and then re-install the wheel's quick release skewer,
_loosely_.

Now take the wheel and laying it flat (freewheel tool down) put the tool
into the vise and tighten the vise jaws onto the tools flats. Grab the
rim and twist hard. This should give you enough leverage.

May you have the wind at your back.
And a really low gear for the hills!
Chris

Chris'Z Corner
"The Website for the Common Bicyclist":
http://www.geocities.com/czcorner

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