Think i found a new way to get off crank arms...

[TJ Poseno]

I was trying to get my crank arms off today, and they didnt seem to
agree with coming off. So what i did is loosen both of the bolts hold
on the crank arms, then went off and rode the bike in the driveway to
get them loosened, I also put the pedals parallel with the ground and
kinda of stood on them and stomped, trying to put the pressure in the
opposite direction it usually is. I got the left one off in no time
and the right came a little later. It seemed to work great for me,
since i have no crank puller.

Also I usually but Park tools, but i got a recent biek catolog andthe
have spin doctor tools for really cheap. Are they good quality? For
the price?

crank puller for $8, 13 - 19mm cone wrenches 16.99

[Michael Dart]

"TJ Poseno" > wrote in message
om...
> I was trying to get my crank arms off today, and they didnt seem to
> agree with coming off. So what i did is loosen both of the bolts hold
> on the crank arms, then went off and rode the bike in the driveway to
> get them loosened, I also put the pedals parallel with the ground and
> kinda of stood on them and stomped, trying to put the pressure in the
> opposite direction it usually is. I got the left one off in no time
> and the right came a little later. It seemed to work great for me,
> since i have no crank puller.
>
> Also I usually but Park tools, but i got a recent biek catolog andthe
> have spin doctor tools for really cheap. Are they good quality? For
> the price?
>
> crank puller for $8, 13 - 19mm cone wrenches 16.99

New to you, old to the rest of us who have had the threads on a crank strip
out rendering a puller useless. But I recommend getting the right tool for
the job.

Mike - and watch those threads! ;^)

[Werehatrack]

On 24 Jul 2003 21:01:45 -0700, (Chalo) may
have said:

(TJ Poseno) wrote:
>
>> I was trying to get my crank arms off today, and they didnt seem to
>> agree with coming off. So what i did is loosen both of the bolts hold
>> on the crank arms, then went off and rode the bike in the driveway to
>> get them loosened, I also put the pedals parallel with the ground and
>> kinda of stood on them and stomped, trying to put the pressure in the
>> opposite direction it usually is. I got the left one off in no time
>> and the right came a little later. It seemed to work great for me,
>> since i have no crank puller.
>
>If you actually did this, your cranks are most likely finished. Once
>you distort the square taper bores, they'll never stay tight again.
>
>I hope you were pulling my leg.

On cheap cranks, where the taper in the crank is actually in a steel
insert, it might not damage the hole....maybe....but then again, it
might. Not worth taking the chance, if the hub threads aren't damaged
where the puller goes.

--
My email address is antispammed;
pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
it's also possible that I'm busy.

[Paul Southworth]

In article >,
TJ Poseno > wrote:
>I was trying to get my crank arms off today, and they didnt seem to
>agree with coming off. So what i did is loosen both of the bolts hold
>on the crank arms, then went off and rode the bike in the driveway to
>get them loosened, I also put the pedals parallel with the ground and
>kinda of stood on them and stomped, trying to put the pressure in the
>opposite direction it usually is. I got the left one off in no time
>and the right came a little later. It seemed to work great for me,
>since i have no crank puller.

As long as your cranks stay tight afterwards there's nothing wrong
with it. But if you mash the flats in the crank arm (because the
spindle is so much harder than the crank arm) they will begin to
loosen even with the bolts installed. If that happens you'll know
you rode it loose too long and you can either put a piece of a coke
can on the spindle and hope for the best or put the crank arm in
the recycle bin.

Think of it like turning a tight steel bolt with a long handled
wrench made out of aluminum, and pushing with all your weight on
it - if the fit is perfect (bolt installed, nothing damaged) then
you can push pretty damn hard on it. But if the fit is sloppy the
wrench is going to be trashed. Most of us have seen this happen
with a forged and hardened steel open-end wrench; doing it to an
aluminum part is a bad joke by comparison.

--Paul

[TJ Poseno]

I didnt do any damage, but i didnt say go and jam up and down the
street for a couple fo hours, just enough untill the came off. I didnt
go nuts.

I will be buying a crank puller here sometime, just seemed to work for
me, neither of my bikes cost more than $25, so if i did damage
something, but thanks for the warning, maybe i will retire this
method.

[Phil Brown]

>
>I didnt do any damage, but i didnt say go and jam up and down the
>street for a couple fo hours, just enough untill the came off. I didnt
>go nuts.

If it came off you did some damage.
Phil Brown

[Chris Zacho The Wheelman]

That's also a great way to open up the tapered fittings in the arms and
put yourself in the market for some new cranks.

IOW, I wouldn't recommend it!

May you have the wind at your back.
And a really low gear for the hills!
Chris

Chris'Z Corner
"The Website for the Common Bicyclist":
http://www.geocities.com/czcorner