This Old Bike: Resuscitating a Cannondale SM 500

[Scott Gordo]

Last week I garbage picked a mid-80's Cannondale I've earmarked to
gift on the cheap. (Read as: I'd like to spend somewhere under $50).
It's not an uninteresting bike.

Here's a pic of what looks like the same bike model:
http://www.firstflightbikes.com/SM500.htm

The parts are largely Suntour, SR, and Sugino. It's complete except
for a rear wheel and part of the rear brake.

The brakes are Dia Compe roller cams. They're probably the most
notably retro-stylish element of the bike. The front brake is
complete, but the rear brake is missing the triangular cam that
activates the arms. I have a grinder and could try and mimic the
front, but thought I'd ask here first in case someone has one sitting
at the bottom of a greasy bin they'd consider parting with.

The rear spacing is 130mm, and those cartoonishly huge stays are most
definitely NOT going to spread into a 135mm (without the threat of
pipe-bomb like shrapnel.) So I guess I'm on the hunt for a 130mm rear
wheel. I plan on hitting my local shops to dive into their collection
of old rear wheels, but the odds of finding something of that vintage
and purpose still serviceable aren't great. The Suntour shifting is
friction, so I think that any 6 speed arrangement should work
tolerably. Any good ways to reduce the width of an MTB hub without
getting too fiddly with redishing and etc?) Other recommendations? I
know that Walgoose mtbs tend to be 6sp in the back. I'd assume that
they're 135mm spacing but I don't have any info on that. Not a proud
moment when I'm considering putting a Walgoose wheel on, but there you
have it.

Note: I just read that firstflightbikes.com profile, which says that
previous versions came with a 24" wheel. I'll be checking the serial
code tonight.

Thanks for reading!

Scott

[Steve Gravrock]

On 2007-04-10, Scott Gordo > wrote:

[...]
> http://www.firstflightbikes.com/SM500.htm
[...]
> The rear spacing is 130mm, and those cartoonishly huge stays are most
> definitely NOT going to spread into a 135mm (without the threat of
> pipe-bomb like shrapnel.) So I guess I'm on the hunt for a 130mm rear
> wheel. I plan on hitting my local shops to dive into their collection
> of old rear wheels, but the odds of finding something of that vintage
> and purpose still serviceable aren't great. The Suntour shifting is
> friction, so I think that any 6 speed arrangement should work
> tolerably. Any good ways to reduce the width of an MTB hub without
> getting too fiddly with redishing and etc?) Other recommendations? I

Are you comfortable building your own wheels or willing to pay someone
to do it for you? If so, just use a road hub. I'm sure somebody still
makes hubs for freewheels, and in any case they're about as rare as dirt
on eBay.

[Tom Nakashima]

> [...]
>> http://www.firstflightbikes.com/SM500.htm
> [...]
>> The rear spacing is 130mm, and those cartoonishly huge stays are most
>> definitely NOT going to spread into a 135mm (without the threat of
>> pipe-bomb like shrapnel.) So I guess I'm on the hunt for a 130mm rear
>> wheel. I plan on hitting my local shops to dive into their collection
>> of old rear wheels, but the odds of finding something of that vintage
>> and purpose still serviceable aren't great. The Suntour shifting is
>> friction, so I think that any 6 speed arrangement should work
>> tolerably. Any good ways to reduce the width of an MTB hub without
>> getting too fiddly with redishing and etc?) Other recommendations? I
>

Phil Wood rear hub with 130mm spacing - freewheel for 6/7/8 sp.
http://www.philwood.com/
-tom

[Ozark Bicycle]

On Apr 10, 3:03 pm, "Tom Nakashima" > wrote:
> > [...]
> >>http://www.firstflightbikes.com/SM500.htm
> > [...]
> >> The rear spacing is 130mm, and those cartoonishly huge stays are most
> >> definitely NOT going to spread into a 135mm (without the threat of
> >> pipe-bomb like shrapnel.) So I guess I'm on the hunt for a 130mm rear
> >> wheel. I plan on hitting my local shops to dive into their collection
> >> of old rear wheels, but the odds of finding something of that vintage
> >> and purpose still serviceable aren't great. The Suntour shifting is
> >> friction, so I think that any 6 speed arrangement should work
> >> tolerably. Any good ways to reduce the width of an MTB hub without
> >> getting too fiddly with redishing and etc?) Other recommendations? I
>
> Phil Wood rear hub with 130mm spacing - freewheel for 6/7/8 sp.
> http://www.philwood.com/

Ah, yes, Phil Wood! The perfect solution for a "garbage picked" bike
where the OP has a total budget of $50.

[Ozark Bicycle]

On Apr 10, 9:38 am, "Scott Gordo" > wrote:
> Last week I garbage picked a mid-80's Cannondale I've earmarked to
> gift on the cheap. (Read as: I'd like to spend somewhere under $50).
> It's not an uninteresting bike.
>
> Here's a pic of what looks like the same bike model:http://www.firstflightbikes.com/SM500.htm
>
> The parts are largely Suntour, SR, and Sugino. It's complete except
> for a rear wheel and part of the rear brake.
>
> The brakes are Dia Compe roller cams. They're probably the most
> notably retro-stylish element of the bike. The front brake is
> complete, but the rear brake is missing the triangular cam that
> activates the arms. I have a grinder and could try and mimic the
> front, but thought I'd ask here first in case someone has one sitting
> at the bottom of a greasy bin they'd consider parting with.
>
> The rear spacing is 130mm, and those cartoonishly huge stays are most
> definitely NOT going to spread into a 135mm (without the threat of
> pipe-bomb like shrapnel.) So I guess I'm on the hunt for a 130mm rear
> wheel. I plan on hitting my local shops to dive into their collection
> of old rear wheels, but the odds of finding something of that vintage
> and purpose still serviceable aren't great. The Suntour shifting is
> friction, so I think that any 6 speed arrangement should work
> tolerably. Any good ways to reduce the width of an MTB hub without
> getting too fiddly with redishing and etc?) Other recommendations?

Check with Bike Parts USA:

http://www.bikepartsusa.com

Look under 26" wheels. They'll probably have something for under $30
with a 5/7 speed freewheel hub (look at #01-141854, for example). It
might be bolt-on, not QR, but is that a big deal? If it is 135mm
spacing, reducing it to 130 is not a big deal.


> I know that Walgoose mtbs tend to be 6sp in the back. I'd assume
that
> they're 135mm spacing but I don't have any info on that. Not a proud
> moment when I'm considering putting a Walgoose wheel on, but there you
> have it.
>
> Note: I just read that firstflightbikes.com profile, which says that
> previous versions came with a 24" wheel. I'll be checking the serial
> code tonight.
>
> Thanks for reading!
>
> Scott

[JD]

On Apr 10, 1:51 pm, "Ozark Bicycle"
> wrote:
> On Apr 10, 9:38 am, "Scott Gordo" > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Last week I garbage picked a mid-80's Cannondale I've earmarked to
> > gift on the cheap. (Read as: I'd like to spend somewhere under $50).
> > It's not an uninteresting bike.
>
> > Here's a pic of what looks like the same bike model:http://www.firstflightbikes.com/SM500.htm
>
> > The parts are largely Suntour, SR, and Sugino. It's complete except
> > for a rear wheel and part of the rear brake.
>
> > The brakes are Dia Compe roller cams. They're probably the most
> > notably retro-stylish element of the bike. The front brake is
> > complete, but the rear brake is missing the triangular cam that
> > activates the arms. I have a grinder and could try and mimic the
> > front, but thought I'd ask here first in case someone has one sitting
> > at the bottom of a greasy bin they'd consider parting with.
>
> > The rear spacing is 130mm, and those cartoonishly huge stays are most
> > definitely NOT going to spread into a 135mm (without the threat of
> > pipe-bomb like shrapnel.) So I guess I'm on the hunt for a 130mm rear
> > wheel. I plan on hitting my local shops to dive into their collection
> > of old rear wheels, but the odds of finding something of that vintage
> > and purpose still serviceable aren't great. The Suntour shifting is
> > friction, so I think that any 6 speed arrangement should work
> > tolerably. Any good ways to reduce the width of an MTB hub without
> > getting too fiddly with redishing and etc?) Other recommendations?
>
> Check with Bike Parts USA:
>
> http://www.bikepartsusa.com


Those guys have some weird old/oddball stuff, good prices and have
provided good service to me.

JD some things can't be found at the LBS or QBP

[[email protected]]

On Apr 10, 7:38 am, "Scott Gordo" > wrote:
> Last week I garbage picked a mid-80's Cannondale I've earmarked to
> gift on the cheap. (Read as: I'd like to spend somewhere under $50).
> It's not an uninteresting bike.
>
> Here's a pic of what looks like the same bike model:http://www.firstflightbikes.com/SM500.htm
>
> The parts are largely Suntour, SR, and Sugino. It's complete except
> for a rear wheel and part of the rear brake.
>
> The brakes are Dia Compe roller cams. They're probably the most
> notably retro-stylish element of the bike. The front brake is
> complete, but the rear brake is missing the triangular cam that
> activates the arms. I have a grinder and could try and mimic the
> front, but thought I'd ask here first in case someone has one sitting
> at the bottom of a greasy bin they'd consider parting with.
>
> The rear spacing is 130mm, and those cartoonishly huge stays are most
> definitely NOT going to spread into a 135mm (without the threat of
> pipe-bomb like shrapnel.) So I guess I'm on the hunt for a 130mm rear
> wheel. I plan on hitting my local shops to dive into their collection
> of old rear wheels, but the odds of finding something of that vintage
> and purpose still serviceable aren't great. The Suntour shifting is
> friction, so I think that any 6 speed arrangement should work
> tolerably. Any good ways to reduce the width of an MTB hub without
> getting too fiddly with redishing and etc?) Other recommendations? I
> know that Walgoose mtbs tend to be 6sp in the back. I'd assume that
> they're 135mm spacing but I don't have any info on that. Not a proud
> moment when I'm considering putting a Walgoose wheel on, but there you
> have it.

As long as you're hitting the local shops to look
for old parts, you could look for the rollercam cam,
but a better solution is to replace it with a U-brake.
They fit the same posts.

If you can find a cheapish 26" 6 or 7 speed wheel,
freewheel or cassette, there is likely to be a spacer
on the left side of the hub, and replacing the spacer
with 5mm less spacer will take a 135mm wheel down to
130mm. If you do that you may need to replace with
a shorter axle or grind some off the end.

[A Muzi]

> On 2007-04-10, Scott Gordo > wrote:
> [...]
>> http://www.firstflightbikes.com/SM500.htm
> [...]
>> The rear spacing is 130mm, and those cartoonishly huge stays are most
>> definitely NOT going to spread into a 135mm (without the threat of
>> pipe-bomb like shrapnel.) So I guess I'm on the hunt for a 130mm rear
>> wheel. I plan on hitting my local shops to dive into their collection
>> of old rear wheels, but the odds of finding something of that vintage
>> and purpose still serviceable aren't great. The Suntour shifting is
>> friction, so I think that any 6 speed arrangement should work
>> tolerably. Any good ways to reduce the width of an MTB hub without
>> getting too fiddly with redishing and etc?) Other recommendations? I

Steve Gravrock wrote:
> Are you comfortable building your own wheels or willing to pay someone
> to do it for you? If so, just use a road hub. I'm sure somebody still
> makes hubs for freewheels, and in any case they're about as rare as dirt
> on eBay.
Yes, that's true.
But a Shimano 135 mountain hub from bike shop garbage may have the left
side 5mm spacer removed, the axle trimmed and -voila- 130mm hub free.

Sorta depends on intended use, self image, budget, etc.
Phil Wood 130m hubs are nice too. Now we're between $0 and $360. . .
and we haven't even discussed FW versus CS!
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[Steve Gravrock]

On 2007-04-11, A Muzi > wrote:

> But a Shimano 135 mountain hub from bike shop garbage may have the left
> side 5mm spacer removed, the axle trimmed and -voila- 130mm hub free.

I wouldn't have guessed that, but it looks like you're right. If that's
the only difference, what's the benefit of the wider spacing on mountain
bikes?

[jim beam]

Steve Gravrock wrote:
> On 2007-04-11, A Muzi > wrote:
>
>> But a Shimano 135 mountain hub from bike shop garbage may have the left
>> side 5mm spacer removed, the axle trimmed and -voila- 130mm hub free.
>
> I wouldn't have guessed that, but it looks like you're right. If that's
> the only difference, what's the benefit of the wider spacing on mountain
> bikes?

it offsets the rim center a little more to the left, hence reducing the
spoke tension differential and the lateral flexibility a bit.

[Scott Gordo]

On Apr 10, 10:38 am, "Scott Gordo" > wrote:
> Last week I garbage picked a mid-80's Cannondale I've earmarked to
> gift on the cheap. (Read as: I'd like to spend somewhere under $50).
> It's not an uninteresting bike.
>
> Here's a pic of what looks like the same bike model:http://www.firstflightbikes.com/SM500.htm
>
> The parts are largely Suntour, SR, and Sugino. It's complete except
> for a rear wheel and part of the rear brake.
>
> The brakes are Dia Compe roller cams. They're probably the most
> notably retro-stylish element of the bike. The front brake is
> complete, but the rear brake is missing the triangular cam that
> activates the arms. I have a grinder and could try and mimic the
> front, but thought I'd ask here first in case someone has one sitting
> at the bottom of a greasy bin they'd consider parting with.
>
> The rear spacing is 130mm, and those cartoonishly huge stays are most
> definitely NOT going to spread into a 135mm (without the threat of
> pipe-bomb like shrapnel.) So I guess I'm on the hunt for a 130mm rear
> wheel. I plan on hitting my local shops to dive into their collection
> of old rear wheels, but the odds of finding something of that vintage
> and purpose still serviceable aren't great. The Suntour shifting is
> friction, so I think that any 6 speed arrangement should work
> tolerably. Any good ways to reduce the width of an MTB hub without
> getting too fiddly with redishing and etc?) Other recommendations? I
> know that Walgoose mtbs tend to be 6sp in the back. I'd assume that
> they're 135mm spacing but I don't have any info on that. Not a proud
> moment when I'm considering putting a Walgoose wheel on, but there you
> have it.
>
> Note: I just read that firstflightbikes.com profile, which says that
> previous versions came with a 24" wheel. I'll be checking the serial
> code tonight.
>
> Thanks for reading!
>
> Scott

Okay, checked the frame this morning and it is indeed built for a 26"
rear wheel so that's a good thing. Also took a hard look at the forks,
which look a little skewed. It's steel and doesn't look too f'd up (no
noticeable rippling in the paint), but the wheel is off center by
almost a cm. So I'll be trying to get that number back in line first.
Hoo boy....

Thanks for the tips. I think I'm going to take a swipe with the
grinder before I start searching for a U-Brake, but the fact that the
posts match is good info. And thanks for the website lead -- I'm going
to peruse my LBS's stock first, but the selection and prices on non-
Gucci outdated parts looked decent.

/s

[Paladin]

On Apr 10, 8:38 am, "Scott Gordo" > wrote:
> Last week I garbage picked a mid-80's Cannondale I've earmarked to
> gift on the cheap. (Read as: I'd like to spend somewhere under $50).
> It's not an uninteresting bike.
>
> Here's a pic of what looks like the same bike model:http://www.firstflightbikes.com/SM500.htm
>
> The parts are largely Suntour, SR, and Sugino. It's complete except
> for a rear wheel and part of the rear brake.
>
> The brakes are Dia Compe roller cams. They're probably the most
> notably retro-stylish element of the bike. The front brake is
> complete, but the rear brake is missing the triangular cam that
> activates the arms. I have a grinder and could try and mimic the
> front, but thought I'd ask here first in case someone has one sitting
> at the bottom of a greasy bin they'd consider parting with.
>
> The rear spacing is 130mm, and those cartoonishly huge stays are most
> definitely NOT going to spread into a 135mm (without the threat of
> pipe-bomb like shrapnel.) So I guess I'm on the hunt for a 130mm rear
> wheel. I plan on hitting my local shops to dive into their collection
> of old rear wheels, but the odds of finding something of that vintage
> and purpose still serviceable aren't great. The Suntour shifting is
> friction, so I think that any 6 speed arrangement should work
> tolerably. Any good ways to reduce the width of an MTB hub without
> getting too fiddly with redishing and etc?) Other recommendations? I
> know that Walgoose mtbs tend to be 6sp in the back. I'd assume that
> they're 135mm spacing but I don't have any info on that. Not a proud
> moment when I'm considering putting a Walgoose wheel on, but there you
> have it.
>
> Note: I just read that firstflightbikes.com profile, which says that
> previous versions came with a 24" wheel. I'll be checking the serial
> code tonight.
>
> Thanks for reading!
>
> Scott


This guy has a pretty huge inventory of old, used, bike parts and
stuff, and might have what you're looking for:

http://www.a1bicycles.com/

CDB

[JD]

Remember one thing, you can't polish a turd.

JD

[Scott Gordo]

On Apr 11, 6:22 pm, "JD" > wrote:
> Remember one thing, you can't polish a turd.
>
> JD

Historically, that never stopped me from trying. Some of my favorite
bikes have been turds.

/s

[Crazy Fred]

On Apr 10, 10:38 am, "Scott Gordo" > wrote:
> Last week I garbage picked a mid-80's Cannondale I've earmarked to
> gift on the cheap. (Read as: I'd like to spend somewhere under $50).
> It's not an uninteresting bike.
>
> Here's a pic of what looks like the same bike model:http://www.firstflightbikes.com/SM500.htm
>
> The parts are largely Suntour, SR, and Sugino. It's complete except
> for a rear wheel and part of the rear brake.
>
> The brakes are Dia Compe roller cams. They're probably the most
> notably retro-stylish element of the bike. The front brake is
> complete, but the rear brake is missing the triangular cam that
> activates the arms. I have a grinder and could try and mimic the
> front, but thought I'd ask here first in case someone has one sitting
> at the bottom of a greasy bin they'd consider parting with.
>
> The rear spacing is 130mm, and those cartoonishly huge stays are most
> definitely NOT going to spread into a 135mm (without the threat of
> pipe-bomb like shrapnel.) So I guess I'm on the hunt for a 130mm rear
> wheel. I plan on hitting my local shops to dive into their collection
> of old rear wheels, but the odds of finding something of that vintage
> and purpose still serviceable aren't great. The Suntour shifting is
> friction, so I think that any 6 speed arrangement should work
> tolerably. Any good ways to reduce the width of an MTB hub without
> getting too fiddly with redishing and etc?) Other recommendations? I
> know that Walgoose mtbs tend to be 6sp in the back. I'd assume that
> they're 135mm spacing but I don't have any info on that. Not a proud
> moment when I'm considering putting a Walgoose wheel on, but there you
> have it.
>
> Note: I just read that firstflightbikes.com profile, which says that
> previous versions came with a 24" wheel. I'll be checking the serial
> code tonight.
>
> Thanks for reading!
>
> Scott I did that to an old Schwinn Probe with a 5 speed wheel. Upgraded it to a 8 speed real easy and that was in 2002 and its still going since I did all the work. Even did the brakes to V's and the shifters to Gripshifters.