April 10th 07, 08:23 PM
I might be completely wrong on this, but here goes a question to every
Raleigh or classic bike owner/mechanic. I've just built up a new
VanSchothorst 26 1 3/8 Stainless Westrick with DT Swiss Competition DB
spokes with brass washers, on the original Sturmey front hub. I used
an upturned Raleigh Esquire as a truing stand for the initial lacing.
Ok, all went well, centred the wheel between the forks, all ok.
Transferred the wheel for the stage of bringing it up to tension and
accurate truing. For this i used a pair of 700c forks with a single
rod brake stay clamp with brake shoe for lateral and 6" steel rule
banded horizontally to gauge roundness. Got the wheel good and true,
but then noticed that it was quite a bit to one side. Scratched head,
thought it must have been bent forks on the Raleigh, so re-dished to
get it exactly central. After destressing the wheel prior to fitting,
i installed it in the 1984 Raleigh Superbe and would you believe it,
the wheel wasn't in the middle.
Now i've had my suspicions in the past, as i could insert a finger on
one side between tyre and fork stay from the back of the fork, but not
on the other side. I thought that this can't be right, so i checked my
other 4 3-speeds and you guessed it, all the same.
So here is my question, are your's the same, bigger gap on the right ,
than the left, i.e. the forks are biased to shift the wheel about 5mm
to the lefthand side. I've double checked by flipping up the bikes,
taking off the front wheel and hanging a pointed weight from exactly
half way netween the fork dropouts and predictably, it points about
5mm to one side on the underside of the mudguard.
Is there any reason for this quirk. Is there a practical reason for
it?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks, Nick.
Raleigh or classic bike owner/mechanic. I've just built up a new
VanSchothorst 26 1 3/8 Stainless Westrick with DT Swiss Competition DB
spokes with brass washers, on the original Sturmey front hub. I used
an upturned Raleigh Esquire as a truing stand for the initial lacing.
Ok, all went well, centred the wheel between the forks, all ok.
Transferred the wheel for the stage of bringing it up to tension and
accurate truing. For this i used a pair of 700c forks with a single
rod brake stay clamp with brake shoe for lateral and 6" steel rule
banded horizontally to gauge roundness. Got the wheel good and true,
but then noticed that it was quite a bit to one side. Scratched head,
thought it must have been bent forks on the Raleigh, so re-dished to
get it exactly central. After destressing the wheel prior to fitting,
i installed it in the 1984 Raleigh Superbe and would you believe it,
the wheel wasn't in the middle.
Now i've had my suspicions in the past, as i could insert a finger on
one side between tyre and fork stay from the back of the fork, but not
on the other side. I thought that this can't be right, so i checked my
other 4 3-speeds and you guessed it, all the same.
So here is my question, are your's the same, bigger gap on the right ,
than the left, i.e. the forks are biased to shift the wheel about 5mm
to the lefthand side. I've double checked by flipping up the bikes,
taking off the front wheel and hanging a pointed weight from exactly
half way netween the fork dropouts and predictably, it points about
5mm to one side on the underside of the mudguard.
Is there any reason for this quirk. Is there a practical reason for
it?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks, Nick.