Replacing Dura-Ace brake pads

[MikeyOz[_36_]]

ok this is going to be a dumb question for some people.... I can take
it.

I usually get my brake pads replaced when I get a full service done by
the bike shop, however, due to my own recent maintenance on bike, plus
some seemingly CR&P brake pads they put in last time, I need to replace
my pads and I am stuffed if I am going to take the bike in to just get
pads replaced.

Whats involved, is it just an allen key/screwdriver job and some new
pads ? is that all... or is there a trick to it ?


--
MikeyOz

[dgarry[_4_]]

MikeyOz Wrote:
> ok this is going to be a dumb question for some people.... I can take
> it.
>
> I usually get my brake pads replaced when I get a full service done by
> the bike shop, however, due to my own recent maintenance on bike, plus
> some seemingly CR&P brake pads they put in last time, I need to replace
> my pads and I am stuffed if I am going to take the bike in to just get
> pads replaced.
>
> Whats involved, is it just an allen key/screwdriver job and some new
> pads ? is that all... or is there a trick to it ?
It's quite a painless task to replace Shimano brake pads..
I think you need a 2.5mm (possible 2mm) allen key to remove the bolt
that locks the brake pad into the brake shoe. It's best to remove your
front wheel before starting..
Always make sure to adjust the tension on the brakes afterwards as once
you have new brake pads fitted you might find your braking to be really
sharp now that the pads are closer to the rims ..


--
dgarry

[dgarry[_5_]]

dgarry Wrote:
> It's quite a painless task to replace Shimano brake pads..
> I think you need a 2.5mm (possible 2mm) allen key to remove the bolt
> that locks the brake pad into the brake shoe. It's best to remove your
> front wheel before starting..
> Always make sure to adjust the tension on the brakes afterwards as once
> you have new brake pads fitted you might find your braking to be really
> sharp now that the pads are closer to the rims ..
You might also want to try some different brake pads such as SwissStop
or Kool Stop if you don't like you're current brake pads..


--
dgarry

[Bleve]

On Apr 24, 10:33 am, MikeyOz <MikeyOz.2pi...@no-
mx.forums.cyclingforums.com> wrote:
> ok this is going to be a dumb question for some people.... I can take
> it.
>
> I usually get my brake pads replaced when I get a full service done by
> the bike shop, however, due to my own recent maintenance on bike, plus
> some seemingly CR&P brake pads they put in last time, I need to replace
> my pads and I am stuffed if I am going to take the bike in to just get
> pads replaced.
>
> Whats involved, is it just an allen key/screwdriver job and some new
> pads ? is that all... or is there a trick to it ?

No trick, that's it. If you haven't adjusted your brakes at all,
anyway :)

My D-A brakes have a removable brake block that you just undo with an
allen key, slide out the old rubber (needlenose pliers help
sometimes), slide in the new rubber & you're done. It's a 1.5mm allen
key, from memory, which is *not* on most multitools. It's easiest
with the wheel out, btw. The pads are curved and asymetrical, it is
possible to put them in upside down, but it should be fairly obvious
if you try!

Be careful not to undo the main big (4mm?) allen key that holds the
pad bracket, or you may find that you disturb the toe in of the pad,
and you might get some brake squeal. If you do, you can set the pad
up so that the leading edge of the pad touches last (think about the
direction the wheel is rotating) by a little (maybe .5mm or less) and
that will generally eliminate squeal. The pad mounting has a gimbal
so you can alter toe-in on it.

[MikeyOz[_37_]]

Bleve Wrote:
>
> No trick, that's it. If you haven't adjusted your brakes at all,
> anyway :)
>
> My D-A brakes have a removable brake block that you just undo with an
> allen key, slide out the old rubber (needlenose pliers help
> sometimes), slide in the new rubber & you're done. It's a 1.5mm allen
> key, from memory, which is *not* on most multitools. It's easiest
> with the wheel out, btw. The pads are curved and asymetrical, it is
> possible to put them in upside down, but it should be fairly obvious
> if you try!
>
> Be careful not to undo the main big (4mm?) allen key that holds the
> pad bracket, or you may find that you disturb the toe in of the pad,
> and you might get some brake squeal. If you do, you can set the pad
> up so that the leading edge of the pad touches last (think about the
> direction the wheel is rotating) by a little (maybe .5mm or less) and
> that will generally eliminate squeal. The pad mounting has a gimbal
> so you can alter toe-in on it.

Nope, have not touched 'em for that very reason, I would have attacked
it removing the bolt that holds the pad holder onto the brake caliper,
which I think is what dgarry pointed to ??

ta muchly.


--
MikeyOz

[Bleve]

On Apr 24, 11:50 am, MikeyOz <MikeyOz.2pi...@no-
mx.forums.cyclingforums.com> wrote:
> Bleve Wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > No trick, that's it. If you haven't adjusted your brakes at all,
> > anyway :)
>
> > My D-A brakes have a removable brake block that you just undo with an
> > allen key, slide out the old rubber (needlenose pliers help
> > sometimes), slide in the new rubber & you're done. It's a 1.5mm allen
> > key, from memory, which is *not* on most multitools. It's easiest
> > with the wheel out, btw. The pads are curved and asymetrical, it is
> > possible to put them in upside down, but it should be fairly obvious
> > if you try!
>
> > Be careful not to undo the main big (4mm?) allen key that holds the
> > pad bracket, or you may find that you disturb the toe in of the pad,
> > and you might get some brake squeal. If you do, you can set the pad
> > up so that the leading edge of the pad touches last (think about the
> > direction the wheel is rotating) by a little (maybe .5mm or less) and
> > that will generally eliminate squeal. The pad mounting has a gimbal
> > so you can alter toe-in on it.
>
> Nope, have not touched 'em for that very reason, I would have attacked
> it removing the bolt that holds the pad holder onto the brake caliper,
> which I think is what dgarry pointed to ??

Maybe. My D-A calipers here (1.5 metres from my desk :) ) have
cartridge brakes, all you have to do is pop the wheel out, undo the
small (1.5mm?) allen key, pull out the old pad, pop a new one in, do
up a new (ideally) allen key, reinsert wheel and check brake tension
is to your liking.

It's a good idea to take the opportunity to check for excessive rim
wear. Rim explosions are things you do *not* want to experience. I
was lucky, I was only doing 5km/h (and was on my way to pick up new
wheels! the irony!) when my front rim blew to bits :)

[MikeyOz[_38_]]

Bleve Wrote:
>
> It's a good idea to take the opportunity to check for excessive rim
> wear. Rim explosions are things you do *not* want to experience. I
> was lucky, I was only doing 5km/h (and was on my way to pick up new
> wheels! the irony!) when my front rim blew to bits :)

Had a look when I got home from work and I located the small allen key
nuts to undo, so it will be done. Wheels are fine and dandy.


--
MikeyOz