Riding through floods

[sp4rky-m4rky]

Have you riden through a flood on your unicycle? one that comes up
higher than your hub? I went riding on my 07 KH 20 and went through a
flood that came up to like the top of the tyre. I was wondering will I
now need new berrings? my dad thinks that they will now be shot because
water would have goten in. I know that a new set of berring wont cost
much but I would rather not buy a new set. If you have been through
deep floods what, if anything was damaged by it?


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[The.Mars.Volta]

im pretty sure kh bearings are sealled, so they should be fine, i
think...

you're uni should be fine mate. dont worry about a thing(i think)


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juggle508 wrote:
> I know why Tomsey is so good at backs and why Shaun owns at normal
> flips.
> It has to do with the gravitational pull. Like how the toilet flushes
> in the opposite direction down there. Well its easier down there to
> flip backwards then forwards
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[Chexjc]

I think it'll be fine. But if the wheel stops spinning as well...then
you may want to buy new ones.


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[henkka]

I rode on the beach and in the sea. Wheel stopped spinning later and I
thought there might be sand in/on the bearrings. I took bearrings off
and cleaned them, now I just need to put those back and try if wheel
spins as well as before. Hopefully it does.


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[sp4rky-m4rky]

henkka wrote:
> I rode on the beach and in the sea. Wheel stopped spinning later and I
> thought there might be sand in/on the bearrings. I took bearrings off
> and cleaned them, now I just need to put those back and try if wheel
> spins as well as before. Hopefully it does.



When you say you cleaned them, do you mean just cleaned off the outside
of them?


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[The.Mars.Volta]

henkka wrote:
> I rode on the beach and in the sea. Wheel stopped spinning later and I
> thought there might be sand in/on the bearrings. I took bearrings off
> and cleaned them, now I just need to put those back and try if wheel
> spins as well as before. Hopefully it does.


is it a kh though?


sparky, im 99% sure that your sealled kh bearings are gonna get wreck,
do you honestly think that, the man himself, kris holm, would not water
proof his unicycles????


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juggle508 wrote:
> I know why Tomsey is so good at backs and why Shaun owns at normal
> flips.
> It has to do with the gravitational pull. Like how the toilet flushes
> in the opposite direction down there. Well its easier down there to
> flip backwards then forwards
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[sp4rky-m4rky]

The.Mars.Volta wrote:
> is it a kh though?
>
>
> sparky, im 99% sure that your sealled kh bearings are gonna get wreck,
> do you honestly think that, the man himself, kris holm, would not water
> proof his unicycles????



So you think its not going to be ok now or do you still think its going
to be ok, Im confused now :o


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[tholub]

Generally, water is bad for bearings, but our bearings are pretty
low-performance anyway; even if they're not working very well, they
still generally work well enough. I rode all of Moab this year with
dead bearings; my uni sounded like I'd installed spoke beads, but it
didn't really affect my riding.

Just ride it and see how it goes.


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[The.Mars.Volta]

sp4rky-m4rky wrote:
> So you think its not going to be ok now or do you still think its going
> to be ok, Im confused now :o


it will most likely be perfectly fine. so dont worry about it aye.


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juggle508 wrote:
> I know why Tomsey is so good at backs and why Shaun owns at normal
> flips.
> It has to do with the gravitational pull. Like how the toilet flushes
> in the opposite direction down there. Well its easier down there to
> flip backwards then forwards
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[sp4rky-m4rky]

The.Mars.Volta wrote:
> it will most likely be perfectly fine. so dont worry about it aye.



I am worried about it, thats the problem. My wheel may stop spinning :(


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[agentQ]

Water should not fully seize the bearings. Yes there very well could be
damage done to them but your wheel is not going to lock up. If you are
so worried about it just order another set so if there is any problems
you have back up. An extra set of baerings isnt a bad thing to have
anyway, as after a year of abuse on a wheelset you can definitely tell
the differnce between new and old bearings, water damage or not.


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[sockmonster]

I rode through flood with a torker (which is really the unicycle to do
it with) where the water was so deep, I ended up swimming out, and I've
also hopped off a dock into a pond with the same unicycle. No problems
whatsoever.

The one thing I would do is get some WD-40 or something comparable and
spray the bearing while the wheel is spinning. It will displace any
water that may be in there, and prevent any possible rust. Also, keep
riding it.

Even without that, though, your unicycle will be fine. They're tough
machines. They can handle a little water now and then.

I rode a 36" through the rain for a month, and the outside of my
bearings are now a bit rusty, but that hasn't affected performance at
all.


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[tomtrevor]

a few weeks ago i rode through a 200m wide lagoon (salt water) that was
just deeper than the hub. i also rode on the beach heaps. i had to
replace the bearings, only one bearing got really screwed over, the
other was fine, im not sure why it was like that. but yea, bearings are
fairly cheap, if they start getting a bit stuck or sound a bit weird,
just replace them.


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[Chexjc]

It really isn't difficult to take them apart and clean them though. Open
it up, clean it with some WD40. If you're really concerned. a new set
won't cost you more than $25


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[tholub]

Chexjc wrote:
> It really isn't difficult to take them apart and clean them though. Open
> it up, clean it with some WD40. If you're really concerned. a new set
> won't cost you more than $25



WD-40 is really not what you want. If you open up the bearings, you
want to clean them with a degreaser (WD-40 does degrease, but it's not
the best degreaser), and then apply new grease. WD-40 is not much of a
lubricant.


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[feel the light]

Chexjc wrote:
> It really isn't difficult to take them apart and clean them though. Open
> it up, clean it with some WD40. If you're really concerned. a new set
> won't cost you more than $25


These are universal bearings, common to many devices. I have used
them on motorcycles for decades.
1. If you remove the bearing, you must replace it. Pulling it off
damages it.
2. Do not open the seal. Test the bearing by turning it with your
finger. If you feel any stickiness, it is damaged, replace it.
3 Properly installed, these things are tough and require no service. I
have had many go for 50, 000 + miles on motorcycle wheels with no
trouble. I just check and replace the rough ones at tire change time. I
have ridden through enough water and mud to bury a million unicycles.
The bearings are sealed. If you open the seal they won't be sealed
anymore. You will never get the seal back on right.
4. There is a bearing # on the side of the bearing. Almost every town
has a tool repair shop. Or auto store. Give them this number and they
will have your bearing for about 8$ US. There is no such thing as a
unicycle bearing. They are all standard. As long as the first part of
the number is right, and it is double sealed, it is what you want.
There is some variety in the last letters of the number , these denote
seal type, and it's not to important.
5 . When you tap it onto the axle, use a socket or pipe to hit just
the inner race of the bearing. If you drive it on smacking the outer
race, you will damage it.
So don't worry about your bearings. Just avoid blasting them with
a pressure hose. Normal water is OK. If they pass the "finger turn
test", leave them alone. There is no advantage to replacing a good
bearing, and if you open the seal you should throw it away. Blasting
with wd40 is also a bad idea. That may penetrate the seal and dilute
the grease.


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[Chexjc]

Well yea, like most things, once you tamper with them, they'll never be
like they were brand new. I realize now I forgot to mention that you'd
definitely have to apply another lubricant afterward.

^^he's right though, you're best bet is to replace them if they stop
working. I just replaced the bearings on my Torker, which was a little
bit more of a pain because they're an unusual size...but UDC sells them
now for $15 each.


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[skrobo]

hm
guess what
your pedals are going to have more problems than your other bearings
spray wd-40 in them spin them a few hundred times to get them nice and
clean, then get some high quality wax lubricant and use that, or use
some corrosion X. any silicone/grease lubricant should work, but i'm
leaning toward a wax lubricant(thats what i do, there are obviously ppl
who know more about it than i do, but it works)

wd 40 is not a real lubricant
in fact, it does quite the opposite, it removes and dissolves greases
and liquids, leaving your bearings dry, it will work as a VERY
temporary fix, but it is made to REMOVE lubricants and water(water
dissolvant? 40) not to lubricate.


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[skrobo]

i jumped off a few diving boards (1 and 3 meter) with mine and it is
fine


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[feel the light]

Come in 2 types, sealed and loose. You can service loose bearing pedals
if you want. It is a greasy, messy job. A fair amount of work to extend
the life of cheap pedals, but that's your call. An alternative to
Scrobos spray method would be to remove the nut from the spindle and
clean the mess with solvent, and reassemble with grease. Loose bearing
pedals are cheap, it's a messy job, your call , this procedure may or
may not be worth your time. Scrobos spray method sounds fast and easy.
Another cool idea is DMR v8 pedals. These cost like 30 $, are fairly
light, and come with a grease tube and have a grease fitting on them.
Fast and easy. I never tried them though, it just sounds a lot less
work then cleaning and reassembling the pedal.
Most better quality pedals come with sealed bearings. These may have
better, lighter (magnesium) platforms. These bearings are not serviced,
but rather replaced, just as wheel bearings should be. Only more often.
You can get a tube of 10 pedal bearings for 25 $ here.
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/MBB/686zz10
The downside of sealed bearing pedals, is if you don't replace the
bearings before they get to bad, the pedal may fall off. No biggy on a
trials uni, but a pain perhaps in muni, if you have to walk far.


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[Bike Psycho]

skrobo wrote:
> hm
> wd 40 is not a real lubricant
> in fact, it does quite the opposite, it removes and dissolves greases
> and liquids, leaving your bearings dry, it will work as a VERY
> temporary fix, but it is made to REMOVE lubricants and water(water
> dissolvant? 40) not to lubricate.



I agree that WD40 is not a lubricant. It does un-seize rusted parts,
but those are the type of parts which should have had grease on them in
the first place. WD40 will tend to deteriorate plastics, causing them
to crack etc. So i'd keep it away from my bearings (because of the
seals).
I've ridden my KH 24 up in the mountains on an overnight camping trip,
which happended to rain the whole time and was terribly muddy. But when
I got home I just popped the cranks off, carefully levered the cover
off the bearings, cleaned them with $2 aerosol degreaser and rinsed
with water, and repacked with a mountainbike bearing grease. (car axle
grease is fine too) They go back together as original and last a lot
longer than if they weren't serviced.


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[feel the light]

Those bearings would have lasted longer if you left them alone. The lip
of the seal fits finely around the race. The inside is packed with
grease from the factory. This will repel water, keeping it out of the
bearing, even if submerged.
To check your uni bearings, remove the wheelset from the frame. Spin
the outer part (race) with your finger. It should have some drag,
because it is filled with grease. But it should not have sticky spots.
On a motorcycle, any stick, no matter how slight, is cause to replace
the bearing. On a uni, this is your call. You are unlikely to need to
have it run another 10,000 miles before you can check it again, as is
the motorcycle wheel bearing check interval. Failure will not be sudden
and dramatic, instead, gradual, and noisy on a uni. This is why these
strange rumors about how to service uni bearings can take hold. These
bearings are very tough, and you can do all manor of bad things to
them. and they will hang in there on a uni. On a motorcycle, no one
ever takes a chance with a bearing. No one ever talks of messing with
the seals. These bearings are the same on both motorcycles and uni's.
But on a motorcycle, the idea that you would do a 200$ tire change and
50 $ labour, and then pry the seal off a dodgy sticky 8 $ bearing and
re grease it , when the certain result would be a high speed
failure...... Trust me. No competent mechanic ever services sealed
bearings. If they stick when the outer race is turned by your finger,
they are replaced.
KH has never made a bearing. Honda and Kawasaki order the same
numbers from the same bearing makers. All sealed bearings with the same
number, always marked on the side, are interchangable. Never pry the
seal off. Unless you are curious. Then replace the bearing. It's cheap
!:)
Oh, and the lip of the seal keeps water out because it's greased
inside, and grease is water repellent. WD40 is a grease solvent, and
will remove the grease around the seal. This allows water and dirt in.
So leave your wheel bearings alone! Spray the uni off with a garden
hose. Triply so if it has been near salt water, cause salt is terrible.
But leave the bearings alone until they feel sticky.:cool:


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[Bike Psycho]

Ok, cheers man. I'll save myself the effort next time!!:D :D :D
I guess my desire to service something on the uni took over, as my
mountainbike needs a lot of attention after a good mud bash:eek: :D


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[joemarshall]

feel the light wrote:
>
> KH has never made a bearing. Honda and Kawasaki order the same
> numbers from the same bearing makers. All sealed bearings with the same
> number, always marked on the side, are interchangable. Never pry the
> seal off. Unless you are curious. Then replace the bearing. It's cheap
> !:)
>



Except the ISIS hub bearings, which are an odd for KH, Nimbus and Qu-ax
ISIS hubs. I don't know if you can get hold of them from a standard
bearing place, I have a feeling they were ordered as custom sizes from
somewhere.

Joe


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[matti_marron]

i suggest soakage in WD40 or petrol it eats all the crap outta them,
then if the covers are removabl and you cen get to them to put grease
on them, well do so also if you put grease aroudn the gaps it will
water proof the bearings, but quite abit is needed for that


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[feel the light]

So maybe torker special orders them. I don't know why they would want to
use a non standard size, but they do.
Here is a link for KH bearings. Why would you want to spend an hour
screwing around getting solvent and grease on your hands when a new
bearing is 2$ ?:)
http://tinyurl.com/2aylbd


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[Chexjc]

feel the light wrote:
> So maybe torker special orders them. I don't know why they would want to
> use a non standard size, but they do.
> Here is a link for KH bearings. Why would you want to spend an hour
> screwing around getting solvent and grease on your hands when a new
> bearing is 2$ ?:)
> http://tinyurl.com/2aylbd



In the past I believe it was a pain in the @$$ to get ahold of the
Torker bearings. You had to go directly through the supplier in
Seattle.

UDC sells them now for $15 each:
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1001

UDC says the size is 21X40, which I guess is 1 mm larger inner
diameter...


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[feel the light]

I can't find a bearing house that has 22x42 either. This is the ISIS
size. Maybe they do this to open another revenue stream. They get the
bearing maker to whip up a batch in a unique size for 1$ each. Then
their customers must order it from them at many times as much. I can't
think of another reason to not pick a common size, like the 05 KH used.
Oh well. So now it's 8$ for a ISIS bearing instead of 2 $, and worse,
you won't find it locally.:(


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[sp4rky-m4rky]

Thankyou for all your advise and great response, I never exspected so
much from the questions I asked.

I notesed that when I banged my wheel set on the ground quite abit of
water came out from behind the ruber seals ie. from around the
berrings. This making it clear water had found its way in. After
reading all the posts, Against most advice, I flicked out the seals,
cleaned up the berrings, sprayed them out with an air compressor then
mixed up some good quality waterproof grease repacked them and slipped
the seals back. I havnt bin out on it much as I had a high speed
downhill mountain board accident and I am now lacking skin and movement
but I believe my wheel spins more freely than ever before and seeing as
I didnt damage the seals is in a better state than before.


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[feel the light]

I have replaced 100's of these things over the last 30 years. Mostly in
motorcycles. Always the bearings were of a standard size and number. I
think it's a bit of a crock of SH&$ that there is a mysterious need for
a unique size bearing in a unicycle. Pile of crap that the motorcycle
industry doesn't have to deal with. That motorcycles can be built in
all sizes and purposes for all recorded history with standard bearings,
and yet uni's need a unique size bearing is a plotted rip off. We are
being jacked deliberately.:(


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