View Full Version : Broken freehub
Hi All,
I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
bodge it together.
Here are some pics:
http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
freehub stick and not be useable.
So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
ring.
These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
parts if the warranty falls through.
Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
Joseph
jim beam
April 8th 08, 05:26 AM
wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
> bodge it together.
>
> Here are some pics:
>
> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
>
> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
> freehub stick and not be useable.
>
> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
> ring.
>
> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
> parts if the warranty falls through.
>
> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
>
> Joseph
i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. there are
plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
and reliable. even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. the ratchet
rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
On Apr 8, 6:26*am, jim beam > wrote:
> wrote:
> > Hi All,
>
> > I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
> > into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
> > bodge it together.
>
> > Here are some pics:
>
> >http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
> >http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
>
> > The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
> > raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
> > freehub stick and not be useable.
>
> > So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
> > freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
> > ring.
>
> > These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
> > parts if the warranty falls through.
>
> > Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
>
> > Joseph
>
> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. *there are
> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
> and reliable. *even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. *the ratchet
> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
I think they are indented because they got pushed out of phase from
the break.
I have a warranty replacement on the way, but I think I will find a
suitable hub now for eventual replacement.
Joseph
jim beam
April 8th 08, 01:49 PM
wrote:
> On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam > wrote:
>> wrote:
>>> Hi All,
>>> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
>>> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
>>> bodge it together.
>>> Here are some pics:
>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
>>> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
>>> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
>>> freehub stick and not be useable.
>>> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
>>> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
>>> ring.
>>> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
>>> parts if the warranty falls through.
>>> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
>>> Joseph
>> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
>> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
>> and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
>> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
>> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
>> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
>
> I think they are indented because they got pushed out of phase from
> the break.
they indented because they're weak relative to the load. shimano are
/always/ "out of phase", and they hardly ever fail.
>
> I have a warranty replacement on the way, but I think I will find a
> suitable hub now for eventual replacement.
>
> Joseph
On Apr 8, 6:26*am, jim beam > wrote:
> wrote:
> > Hi All,
>
> > I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
> > into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
> > bodge it together.
>
> > Here are some pics:
>
> >http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
> >http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
>
> > The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
> > raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
> > freehub stick and not be useable.
>
> > So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
> > freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
> > ring.
>
> > These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
> > parts if the warranty falls through.
>
> > Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
>
> > Joseph
>
> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. *there are
> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
> and reliable. *even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. *the ratchet
> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
I spoke too soon.
They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure.
AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
So will the spokes be too long?
Joseph
jim beam
April 10th 08, 05:06 AM
wrote:
> On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam > wrote:
>> wrote:
>>> Hi All,
>>> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
>>> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
>>> bodge it together.
>>> Here are some pics:
>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
>>> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
>>> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
>>> freehub stick and not be useable.
>>> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
>>> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
>>> ring.
>>> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
>>> parts if the warranty falls through.
>>> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
>>> Joseph
>> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
>> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
>> and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
>> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
>> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
>> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
>
> I spoke too soon.
>
> They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
> hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
> pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
>
> Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
> the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
>
> These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
> regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
> perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure.
> AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
> of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
> between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
> the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
>
> So will the spokes be too long?
>
> Joseph
you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily
measure, thus you can calculate erd. or you can disassemble the wheel
[since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. then you have all
you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement
hub. or whether the old ones will fit.
On Apr 10, 6:06Â*am, jim beam > wrote:
> wrote:
> > On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam > wrote:
> >> wrote:
> >>> Hi All,
> >>> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
> >>> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
> >>> bodge it together.
> >>> Here are some pics:
> >>>http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
> >>>http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
> >>> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
> >>> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
> >>> freehub stick and not be useable.
> >>> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
> >>> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
> >>> ring.
> >>> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
> >>> parts if the warranty falls through.
> >>> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
> >>> Joseph
> >> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
> >> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
> >> and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
> >> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
> >> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
> >> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
>
> > I spoke too soon.
>
> > They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
> > hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
> > pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
>
> > Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
> > the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
>
> > These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
> > regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
> > perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure.
> > AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
> > of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
> > between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
> > the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
>
> > So will the spokes be too long?
>
> > Joseph
>
> you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily
> measure, thus you can calculate erd. Â*or you can disassemble the wheel
> [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. Â*then you have all
> you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement
> hub. Â*or whether the old ones will fit.
I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc
spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the
spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.
Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American
Classic hub. Close enough.
Joseph
datakoll
April 10th 08, 10:05 AM
A Muzi suggests two welding rods joined with a stop on one end
"close enough" ?
Paul Kopit[_2_]
April 11th 08, 03:01 PM
On Thu, 10 Apr 2008 02:05:04 -0700 (PDT), datakoll
> wrote:
>
>
>A Muzi suggests two welding rods joined with a stop on one end
>"close enough" ?
Nipple on brake/derailleur cable. Measure to opposite hole and add
about 3 mm.
datakoll
April 12th 08, 03:21 AM
On Apr 11, 10:01*am, Paul Kopit > wrote:
> On Thu, 10 Apr 2008 02:05:04 -0700 (PDT), datakoll
>
> > wrote:
>
> >A Muzi suggests two welding rods joined with a stop on one end
> >"close enough" ?
>
> Nipple on brake/derailleur cable. *Measure to opposite hole and add
> about 3 mm.
tooooo flexible for clods like me
but pair o' vice grips, rim againsta wall fur suppport and urine
jim beam
April 12th 08, 03:50 PM
wrote:
> On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam > wrote:
>> wrote:
>>> On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam > wrote:
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> Hi All,
>>>>> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
>>>>> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
>>>>> bodge it together.
>>>>> Here are some pics:
>>>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
>>>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
>>>>> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
>>>>> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
>>>>> freehub stick and not be useable.
>>>>> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
>>>>> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
>>>>> ring.
>>>>> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
>>>>> parts if the warranty falls through.
>>>>> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
>>>>> Joseph
>>>> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
>>>> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
>>>> and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
>>>> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
>>>> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
>>>> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
>>> I spoke too soon.
>>> They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
>>> hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
>>> pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
>>> Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
>>> the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
>>> These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
>>> regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
>>> perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure.
>>> AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
>>> of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
>>> between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
>>> the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
>>> So will the spokes be too long?
>>> Joseph
>> you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily
>> measure, thus you can calculate erd. or you can disassemble the wheel
>> [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. then you have all
>> you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement
>> hub. or whether the old ones will fit.
>
> I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc
> spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the
> spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.
>
> Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American
> Classic hub. Close enough.
>
> Joseph
question: why use that hub? they're not on the list of racing greats.
or reliability greats either come to that. is it flange size?
On Apr 12, 4:50Â*pm, jim beam > wrote:
> wrote:
> > On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam > wrote:
> >> wrote:
> >>> On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam > wrote:
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>> Hi All,
> >>>>> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
> >>>>> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
> >>>>> bodge it together.
> >>>>> Here are some pics:
> >>>>>http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
> >>>>>http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
> >>>>> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
> >>>>> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
> >>>>> freehub stick and not be useable.
> >>>>> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
> >>>>> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
> >>>>> ring.
> >>>>> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
> >>>>> parts if the warranty falls through.
> >>>>> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
> >>>>> Joseph
> >>>> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
> >>>> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
> >>>> and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
> >>>> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
> >>>> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
> >>>> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
> >>> I spoke too soon.
> >>> They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
> >>> hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
> >>> pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
> >>> Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
> >>> the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
> >>> These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
> >>> regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
> >>> perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure.
> >>> AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
> >>> of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
> >>> between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
> >>> the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
> >>> So will the spokes be too long?
> >>> Joseph
> >> you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily
> >> measure, thus you can calculate erd. Â*or you can disassemble the wheel
> >> [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. Â*then you have all
> >> you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement
> >> hub. Â*or whether the old ones will fit.
>
> > I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc
> > spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the
> > spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.
>
> > Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American
> > Classic hub. Close enough.
>
> > Joseph
>
> question: why use that hub? Â*they're not on the list of racing greats..
> or reliability greats either come to that. Â*is it flange size?
The only reason I am considering it is the flange size makes it almost
a drop-in replacement for the Chung Huar hub that is there.
The rim is 24 hole, and I want bladed spokes. So if I replace with an
Ultegra or Dura Ace I'll have a super reliable hub, but I'll have to
buy new spokes too, as the flange size is significantly different.
It's basically a question of economy. Over priced semi-reliable AC
hub, or similarly priced top quality Dura Ace + new spokes?
Joseph
jim beam
April 12th 08, 04:28 PM
wrote:
> On Apr 12, 4:50 pm, jim beam > wrote:
>> wrote:
>>> On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam > wrote:
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam > wrote:
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> Hi All,
>>>>>>> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
>>>>>>> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
>>>>>>> bodge it together.
>>>>>>> Here are some pics:
>>>>>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
>>>>>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
>>>>>>> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
>>>>>>> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
>>>>>>> freehub stick and not be useable.
>>>>>>> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
>>>>>>> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
>>>>>>> ring.
>>>>>>> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
>>>>>>> parts if the warranty falls through.
>>>>>>> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
>>>>>>> Joseph
>>>>>> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
>>>>>> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
>>>>>> and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
>>>>>> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
>>>>>> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
>>>>>> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
>>>>> I spoke too soon.
>>>>> They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
>>>>> hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
>>>>> pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
>>>>> Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
>>>>> the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
>>>>> These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
>>>>> regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
>>>>> perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure.
>>>>> AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
>>>>> of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
>>>>> between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
>>>>> the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
>>>>> So will the spokes be too long?
>>>>> Joseph
>>>> you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily
>>>> measure, thus you can calculate erd. or you can disassemble the wheel
>>>> [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. then you have all
>>>> you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement
>>>> hub. or whether the old ones will fit.
>>> I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc
>>> spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the
>>> spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.
>>> Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American
>>> Classic hub. Close enough.
>>> Joseph
>> question: why use that hub? they're not on the list of racing greats.
>> or reliability greats either come to that. is it flange size?
>
> The only reason I am considering it is the flange size makes it almost
> a drop-in replacement for the Chung Huar hub that is there.
>
> The rim is 24 hole, and I want bladed spokes. So if I replace with an
> Ultegra or Dura Ace I'll have a super reliable hub, but I'll have to
> buy new spokes too, as the flange size is significantly different.
> It's basically a question of economy. Over priced semi-reliable AC
> hub, or similarly priced top quality Dura Ace + new spokes?
>
> Joseph
i'm pretty sure you can special order both dura-ace and ultegra in 24h.
you'll have absolute reliability then. and new spokes aren't such a
bad thing are they? ultegra + new spokes had got to compare favorably
with the cost of an ac hub.
On Apr 12, 5:28Â*pm, jim beam > wrote:
> wrote:
> > On Apr 12, 4:50 pm, jim beam > wrote:
> >> wrote:
> >>> On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam > wrote:
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>> On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam > wrote:
> >>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>> Hi All,
> >>>>>>> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
> >>>>>>> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
> >>>>>>> bodge it together.
> >>>>>>> Here are some pics:
> >>>>>>>http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
> >>>>>>>http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
> >>>>>>> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
> >>>>>>> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
> >>>>>>> freehub stick and not be useable.
> >>>>>>> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
> >>>>>>> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
> >>>>>>> ring.
> >>>>>>> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
> >>>>>>> parts if the warranty falls through.
> >>>>>>> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
> >>>>>>> Joseph
> >>>>>> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
> >>>>>> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
> >>>>>> and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
> >>>>>> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
> >>>>>> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
> >>>>>> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
> >>>>> I spoke too soon.
> >>>>> They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
> >>>>> hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
> >>>>> pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
> >>>>> Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
> >>>>> the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
> >>>>> These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
> >>>>> regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
> >>>>> perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure..
> >>>>> AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
> >>>>> of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
> >>>>> between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
> >>>>> the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
> >>>>> So will the spokes be too long?
> >>>>> Joseph
> >>>> you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily
> >>>> measure, thus you can calculate erd. Â*or you can disassemble the wheel
> >>>> [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. Â*then you have all
> >>>> you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement
> >>>> hub. Â*or whether the old ones will fit.
> >>> I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc
> >>> spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the
> >>> spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.
> >>> Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American
> >>> Classic hub. Close enough.
> >>> Joseph
> >> question: why use that hub? Â*they're not on the list of racing greats.
> >> or reliability greats either come to that. Â*is it flange size?
>
> > The only reason I am considering it is the flange size makes it almost
> > a drop-in replacement for the Chung Huar hub that is there.
>
> > The rim is 24 hole, and I want bladed spokes. So if I replace with an
> > Ultegra or Dura Ace I'll have a super reliable hub, but I'll have to
> > buy new spokes too, as the flange size is significantly different.
> > It's basically a question of economy. Over priced semi-reliable AC
> > hub, or similarly priced top quality Dura Ace + new spokes?
>
> > Joseph
>
> i'm pretty sure you can special order both dura-ace and ultegra in 24h.
> Â* you'll have absolute reliability then. Â*and new spokes aren't such a
> bad thing are they? Â*ultegra + new spokes had got to compare favorably
> with the cost of an ac hub.
Ultegra + new spokes is where I'm leaning now. I'm not having any luck
finding 24h aero Ultegra though. Local importer doesn't have it. I
think I'm the only guy in Norway who still will use conventional hubs
so they don't have anything beyond the bare basics.
New spokes wouldn't be a bad thing, but the ones I have were only used
on one ride!
Joseph
jim beam
April 12th 08, 07:12 PM
wrote:
> On Apr 12, 5:28 pm, jim beam > wrote:
>> wrote:
>>> On Apr 12, 4:50 pm, jim beam > wrote:
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> On Apr 10, 6:06 am, jim beam > wrote:
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> On Apr 8, 6:26�am, jim beam > wrote:
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> Hi All,
>>>>>>>>> I have a broken freehub on some wheels I'd like to use. I'm looking
>>>>>>>>> into warranty replacement, but if that doesn't work I'd like to try to
>>>>>>>>> bodge it together.
>>>>>>>>> Here are some pics:
>>>>>>>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0624.jpg
>>>>>>>>> http://arbitrary.org/freehub/IMG_0625.jpg
>>>>>>>>> The hardened ring which engages the pawls has split. This makes the
>>>>>>>>> raised broken area rub on the inside of the hub shell, which makes the
>>>>>>>>> freehub stick and not be useable.
>>>>>>>>> So I'm thinking about filing down the ring where it is broken. The
>>>>>>>>> freehub has 5 pawls, so there should be good contact with the rest of
>>>>>>>>> ring.
>>>>>>>>> These are Joy-Tech hubs, and I don't know where to get replacement
>>>>>>>>> parts if the warranty falls through.
>>>>>>>>> Suggestions? (On how to get these wheels back on the road ASAP)
>>>>>>>>> Joseph
>>>>>>>> i think your best bet is to find a different hub completely. �there are
>>>>>>>> plenty of other freehubs out there that are proven to be long lasting
>>>>>>>> and reliable. �even cheap shimano can take scary abuse. �the ratchet
>>>>>>>> rings on your hub are indented at the root of most of the teeth - it
>>>>>>>> shows they're simply not strong enough for the job and re-failure, even
>>>>>>>> if they're replaced, is pretty much inevitable.
>>>>>>> I spoke too soon.
>>>>>>> They are having trouble sourceing what I need, and it also seems the
>>>>>>> hub-shell is toast too. 3 of the 6 pawls are jammed from having their
>>>>>>> pivot points mangled by the protruding broken ratchet.
>>>>>>> Shipping is so expensive from here in Norway, I am considering biting
>>>>>>> the bullet and just buying a new hub and building up the wheel myself.
>>>>>>> These are deep section carbon rims with bladed spokes. The spokes are
>>>>>>> regular elbow bend Sapim. It looks like American Classic rear hub is
>>>>>>> perhaps close enough to be a "drop in" replacement. But I'm not sure.
>>>>>>> AC hubs have a flange diameter of 66mm, and distance between flanges
>>>>>>> of 46mm. This broken hub has a flange diameter of 60mm and about 50mm
>>>>>>> between flanges. The lacing is 24 x2. It is hard to figure the ERD of
>>>>>>> the rims because the nipples are inside the rim.
>>>>>>> So will the spokes be too long?
>>>>>>> Joseph
>>>>>> you have your existing hub and spokes, whose dimensions you can easily
>>>>>> measure, thus you can calculate erd. or you can disassemble the wheel
>>>>>> [since you'll need to anyway] and measure directly. then you have all
>>>>>> you need to calculate your new spoke length for your chosen replacement
>>>>>> hub. or whether the old ones will fit.
>>>>> I guess for these purposes, ERD doesn't matter. Using Spocalc
>>>>> spreadsheet, I can just choose a somewhat similar rim, and compare the
>>>>> spoke lengths calculated using the 2 different hubs.
>>>>> Doing so, I get a length discrepancy of 1-2mm going to an American
>>>>> Classic hub. Close enough.
>>>>> Joseph
>>>> question: why use that hub? they're not on the list of racing greats.
>>>> or reliability greats either come to that. is it flange size?
>>> The only reason I am considering it is the flange size makes it almost
>>> a drop-in replacement for the Chung Huar hub that is there.
>>> The rim is 24 hole, and I want bladed spokes. So if I replace with an
>>> Ultegra or Dura Ace I'll have a super reliable hub, but I'll have to
>>> buy new spokes too, as the flange size is significantly different.
>>> It's basically a question of economy. Over priced semi-reliable AC
>>> hub, or similarly priced top quality Dura Ace + new spokes?
>>> Joseph
>> i'm pretty sure you can special order both dura-ace and ultegra in 24h.
>> you'll have absolute reliability then. and new spokes aren't such a
>> bad thing are they? ultegra + new spokes had got to compare favorably
>> with the cost of an ac hub.
>
> Ultegra + new spokes is where I'm leaning now. I'm not having any luck
> finding 24h aero Ultegra though. Local importer doesn't have it. I
> think I'm the only guy in Norway who still will use conventional hubs
> so they don't have anything beyond the bare basics.
>
> New spokes wouldn't be a bad thing, but the ones I have were only used
> on one ride!
>
> Joseph
do the math on 2x or even 1x - you may get lucky. and a 36h hub should
lace up to 24 spokes ok... there's a trick on calculating spoke length
if you're missing holes for this kind of lacing - should be online
somewhere...
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