Old bike maintanence?

[HDGuzzi]

Greetings:
I recently won an early '70s Raleigh Sports on e-Bay which looks to
be
in pretty good shape overall. It hasn't been ridden in a long while,
and has what looks like to be some very minor rust/corrosion on some
parts of the frame (near rear drop-outs) and on the 3 speed hub chain
puller thingee. What advice might anyone provide with regard to clean
up and lubrication? Should the cables be lubed? I don't really want
to
take the crank off or open up the hub unless absolutely necessary.
The
seller told me it pedals and shifts smoothly so I'm hoping that I
won't have to go inside it at this point.
Also, where might I find some original Raleigh color (rootbeer?)
touch-
up paint, if such even exists?
Thanks in advance for any help, I'm looking forward to riding this
cool old
warhorse!

[landotter]

On Apr 16, 12:30*pm, HDGuzzi > wrote:
> Greetings:
> I recently won an early '70s Raleigh Sports on e-Bay which looks to
> be
> in pretty good shape overall. It hasn't been ridden in a long while,
> and has what looks like to be some very minor rust/corrosion on some
> parts of the frame (near rear drop-outs) and on the 3 speed hub chain
> puller thingee. What advice might anyone provide with regard to clean
> up and lubrication? Should the cables be lubed? I don't really want
> to
> take the crank off or open up the hub unless absolutely necessary.

You can search this group via Google Groups for detailed advice, but
some quick tips: lube the hub with motor oil. Whatever you've got in
the trunk of your Buick is fine. When the hub is done drinking, it
will seep from the side of the hub. Squeeze in a few drops every
couple months to top it up as it is a loss system. As far as the
cables go, yes, you may want to lube the shifter cable with your
choice of lube where it goes through the housing. You'd be best served
to replace the brake cables and housing with modern lined and
stainless kit that require no lubricant and will feel far superior.
Don't forget to replace the brake pads. Modern pads may need some
washers to reach the rim on a Raleigh Sports.

Best upgrade on that bike, if you want to invest in it, is to upgrade
to modern aluminum rims. Here's a Sprite I modernized:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/83/254286233_35f40ec18d_o_d.jpg

[HDGuzzi]

On Apr 16, 9:43*am, landotter > wrote:
> On Apr 16, 12:30*pm, HDGuzzi > wrote:
>
> > Greetings:
> > I recently won an early '70s Raleigh Sports on e-Bay which looks to
> > be
> > in pretty good shape overall. It hasn't been ridden in a long while,
> > and has what looks like to be some very minor rust/corrosion on some
> > parts of the frame (near rear drop-outs) and on the 3 speed hub chain
> > puller thingee. What advice might anyone provide with regard to clean
> > up and lubrication? Should the cables be lubed? I don't really want
> > to
> > take the crank off or open up the hub unless absolutely necessary.
>
> You can search this group via Google Groups for detailed advice, but
> some quick tips: lube the hub with motor oil. Whatever you've got in
> the trunk of your Buick is fine. When the hub is done drinking, it
> will seep from the side of the hub. Squeeze in a few drops every
> couple months to top it up as it is a loss system. As far as the
> cables go, yes, you may want to lube the shifter cable with your
> choice of lube where it goes through the housing. You'd be best served
> to replace the brake cables and housing with modern lined and
> stainless kit that require no lubricant and will feel far superior.
> Don't forget to replace the brake pads. Modern pads may need some
> washers to reach the rim on a Raleigh Sports.
>
> Best upgrade on that bike, if you want to invest in it, is to upgrade
> to modern aluminum rims. Here's a Sprite I modernized:http://farm1.static.flickr.com/83/254286233_35f40ec18d_o_d.jpg

Thank you! Nice photo of the Sprite, too!
As far as the new aluminum wheels, are these readily available and
what should I expect to pay for them? It's going to need tires so I
figure that if it's within my budget, I'll do the change-over then.

[landotter]

On Apr 16, 5:41 pm, HDGuzzi > wrote:
> On Apr 16, 9:43 am, landotter > wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Apr 16, 12:30 pm, HDGuzzi > wrote:
>
> > > Greetings:
> > > I recently won an early '70s Raleigh Sports on e-Bay which looks to
> > > be
> > > in pretty good shape overall. It hasn't been ridden in a long while,
> > > and has what looks like to be some very minor rust/corrosion on some
> > > parts of the frame (near rear drop-outs) and on the 3 speed hub chain
> > > puller thingee. What advice might anyone provide with regard to clean
> > > up and lubrication? Should the cables be lubed? I don't really want
> > > to
> > > take the crank off or open up the hub unless absolutely necessary.
>
> > You can search this group via Google Groups for detailed advice, but
> > some quick tips: lube the hub with motor oil. Whatever you've got in
> > the trunk of your Buick is fine. When the hub is done drinking, it
> > will seep from the side of the hub. Squeeze in a few drops every
> > couple months to top it up as it is a loss system. As far as the
> > cables go, yes, you may want to lube the shifter cable with your
> > choice of lube where it goes through the housing. You'd be best served
> > to replace the brake cables and housing with modern lined and
> > stainless kit that require no lubricant and will feel far superior.
> > Don't forget to replace the brake pads. Modern pads may need some
> > washers to reach the rim on a Raleigh Sports.
>
> > Best upgrade on that bike, if you want to invest in it, is to upgrade
> > to modern aluminum rims. Here's a Sprite I modernized:http://farm1.static.flickr.com/83/254286233_35f40ec18d_o_d.jpg
>
> Thank you! Nice photo of the Sprite, too!
> As far as the new aluminum wheels, are these readily available and
> what should I expect to pay for them? It's going to need tires so I
> figure that if it's within my budget, I'll do the change-over then.

Some Sun CR-18 rims in that old size will run about $30 each. They
don't build bikes with that size wheel any more in most of the world,
so no pre-builts. It's right inbetween "road" and "mtb" size. Worry
not, with the wonder of the internet, tires and tubes are still
available. You'll need to re-rim the wheels yourself or pay a shop
about $40 per end to do it. It's not crucial, but with modern rims and
tires, you drop near three pounds, and the brakes work far far better.
I consider it a safety upgrade, it turns a neat old bike into a neat
old bike that you can use as a daily rider.

Here's the rim:
http://www.ebikestop.com/sun_cr_18_26_x_1_38_36_hole_polished_rim_fits_ea_3 590_iso-RM8494.php

[datakoll]

On Apr 16, 8:45*pm, landotter > wrote:
> On Apr 16, 5:41 pm, HDGuzzi > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Apr 16, 9:43 am, landotter > wrote:
>
> > > On Apr 16, 12:30 pm, HDGuzzi > wrote:
>
> > > > Greetings:
> > > > I recently won an early '70s Raleigh Sports on e-Bay which looks to
> > > > be
> > > > in pretty good shape overall. It hasn't been ridden in a long while,
> > > > and has what looks like to be some very minor rust/corrosion on some
> > > > parts of the frame (near rear drop-outs) and on the 3 speed hub chain
> > > > puller thingee. What advice might anyone provide with regard to clean
> > > > up and lubrication? Should the cables be lubed? I don't really want
> > > > to
> > > > take the crank off or open up the hub unless absolutely necessary.
>
> > > You can search this group via Google Groups for detailed advice, but
> > > some quick tips: lube the hub with motor oil. Whatever you've got in
> > > the trunk of your Buick is fine. When the hub is done drinking, it
> > > will seep from the side of the hub. Squeeze in a few drops every
> > > couple months to top it up as it is a loss system. As far as the
> > > cables go, yes, you may want to lube the shifter cable with your
> > > choice of lube where it goes through the housing. You'd be best served
> > > to replace the brake cables and housing with modern lined and
> > > stainless kit that require no lubricant and will feel far superior.
> > > Don't forget to replace the brake pads. Modern pads may need some
> > > washers to reach the rim on a Raleigh Sports.
>
> > > Best upgrade on that bike, if you want to invest in it, is to upgrade
> > > to modern aluminum rims. Here's a Sprite I modernized:http://farm1.static.flickr.com/83/254286233_35f40ec18d_o_d.jpg
>
> > Thank you! Nice photo of the Sprite, too!
> > As far as the new aluminum wheels, are these readily available and
> > what should I expect to pay for them? It's going to need tires so I
> > figure that if it's within my budget, I'll do the change-over then.
>
> Some Sun CR-18 rims in that old size will run about $30 each. They
> don't build bikes with that size wheel any more in most of the world,
> so no pre-builts. It's right inbetween "road" and "mtb" size. Worry
> not, with the wonder of the internet, tires and tubes are still
> available. You'll need to re-rim the wheels yourself or pay a shop
> about $40 per end to do it. It's not crucial, but with modern rims and
> tires, you drop near three pounds, and the brakes work far far better.
> I consider it a safety upgrade, it turns a neat old bike into a neat
> old bike that you can use as a daily rider.
>
> Here's the rim:http://www.ebikestop.com/sun_cr_18_26_x_1_38_36_hole_polished_rim_fit...- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

[datakoll]

the grease at the two headset bearings is gone and grease inside both
hubs. take headset apart, inspect for wear. replace bearings there
then see if it holds together.
front hub is simple. Parks Tool website has the instructions.
if replacing rims then replace with 700c as tires are not available
for 27"
try painting the insides with Rusto if you get the BB off to relube
and repack with new bearings.
paint it Rusto Pro yellow or blue !!

[landotter]

On Apr 16, 10:31 pm, datakoll > wrote:
> the grease at the two headset bearings is gone and grease inside both
> hubs. take headset apart, inspect for wear. replace bearings there
> then see if it holds together.
> front hub is simple. Parks Tool website has the instructions.
> if replacing rims then replace with 700c as tires are not available
> for 27"

Sports were mainly EA3 rimmed. I did have a DL1 that said "Sports" on
the chainguard, but it probably wasn't original. Sprites were 27". You
can fit a 700c rim in an EA3 rimmed bike...sometimes. I've done it
with a coaster bike, tight with a 28mm tire:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/94/241816154_c84298d83b_o.jpg

[Chip C]

On Apr 16, 1:43 pm, landotter > wrote:
> On Apr 16, 12:30 pm, HDGuzzi > wrote:
>
> > Greetings:
> > I recently won an early '70s Raleigh Sports on e-Bay which looks to
> > be
> > in pretty good shape overall. It hasn't been ridden in a long while,
> > and has what looks like to be some very minor rust/corrosion on some
> > parts of the frame (near rear drop-outs) and on the 3 speed hub chain
> > puller thingee. What advice might anyone provide with regard to clean
> > up and lubrication? Should the cables be lubed? I don't really want
> > to
> > take the crank off or open up the hub unless absolutely necessary.
>
> You can search this group via Google Groups for detailed advice, but
> some quick tips: lube the hub with motor oil. Whatever you've got in
> the trunk of your Buick is fine. When the hub is done drinking, it
> will seep from the side of the hub. Squeeze in a few drops every
> couple months to top it up as it is a loss system. As far as the
> cables go, yes, you may want to lube the shifter cable with your
> choice of lube where it goes through the housing. You'd be best served
> to replace the brake cables and housing with modern lined and
> stainless kit that require no lubricant and will feel far superior.
> Don't forget to replace the brake pads. Modern pads may need some
> washers to reach the rim on a Raleigh Sports.
>
> Best upgrade on that bike, if you want to invest in it, is to upgrade
> to modern aluminum rims. Here's a Sprite I modernized:http://farm1.static.flickr.com/83/254286233_35f40ec18d_o_d.jpg

Thanks to landotter for the link, I didn't know Al 26x1-3/8 rims
existed; but I have Cool-Stop Continental pads on my all-steel Sports
and I find braking to be just fine in dry conditions. They are usable
with caution in the wet; I ride with the brakes rubbing every so
often, but have had occasional close calls. So while I'm loathe to
tell anyone they don't need to improve their brakes, I'd recommend
trying the Continentals before throwing your wheels out, especially if
you're only riding in nice weather.

Get good tires (your LBS may stock a poor selection; but more do
exist) and replace the brake cables. Good pads don't help when the
cables snap.

I use 3-in-1 oil on the hub, 'cause it comes in a bottle with a long
flexible tube.

Harris Cyclery is your starting point for Raleigh parts, not that
they're a well-kept secret. And there's lots of used and NOS Raleigh
stuff on eBay. Not sure I'd pay much for 30-year-old touch-up paint,
though.

Chip C

[landotter]

On Apr 17, 12:46 pm, Chip C > wrote:
> On Apr 16, 1:43 pm, landotter > wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Apr 16, 12:30 pm, HDGuzzi > wrote:
>
> > > Greetings:
> > > I recently won an early '70s Raleigh Sports on e-Bay which looks to
> > > be
> > > in pretty good shape overall. It hasn't been ridden in a long while,
> > > and has what looks like to be some very minor rust/corrosion on some
> > > parts of the frame (near rear drop-outs) and on the 3 speed hub chain
> > > puller thingee. What advice might anyone provide with regard to clean
> > > up and lubrication? Should the cables be lubed? I don't really want
> > > to
> > > take the crank off or open up the hub unless absolutely necessary.
>
> > You can search this group via Google Groups for detailed advice, but
> > some quick tips: lube the hub with motor oil. Whatever you've got in
> > the trunk of your Buick is fine. When the hub is done drinking, it
> > will seep from the side of the hub. Squeeze in a few drops every
> > couple months to top it up as it is a loss system. As far as the
> > cables go, yes, you may want to lube the shifter cable with your
> > choice of lube where it goes through the housing. You'd be best served
> > to replace the brake cables and housing with modern lined and
> > stainless kit that require no lubricant and will feel far superior.
> > Don't forget to replace the brake pads. Modern pads may need some
> > washers to reach the rim on a Raleigh Sports.
>
> > Best upgrade on that bike, if you want to invest in it, is to upgrade
> > to modern aluminum rims. Here's a Sprite I modernized:http://farm1.static.flickr.com/83/254286233_35f40ec18d_o_d.jpg
>
> Thanks to landotter for the link, I didn't know Al 26x1-3/8 rims
> existed; but I have Cool-Stop Continental pads on my all-steel Sports
> and I find braking to be just fine in dry conditions. They are usable
> with caution in the wet; I ride with the brakes rubbing every so
> often, but have had occasional close calls. So while I'm loathe to
> tell anyone they don't need to improve their brakes, I'd recommend
> trying the Continentals before throwing your wheels out, especially if
> you're only riding in nice weather.
>
> Get good tires (your LBS may stock a poor selection; but more do
> exist)

That's a dilemma in that size. Kenda tires are readily available for
about ten bucks in that size, and they're as good as what came
originally on the bikes, but with the the thick gumwall, the ride is
really wooden. When I put alloy rims and really supple 27" Vittoria 1
1/4" tires on my Sprite, the whole bike changed in character--it
ceased to have that jangly Raleigh feel and felt quite confident in
curves, soaked up road noise, and was palpably easier to pedal uphill.
The only really nice 26x 1 3/8 tires I'm familiar with are the
Panaracer Col de la Vie from Harris for $30 each. If you're gonna ride
the bike a lot, I'd say it's more than worth the investment, but for
just a bar bike or an occasional rider, the Kenda gumwall type is
fine.

As far as the rim replacement goes, I believe the CR18 is close enough
in ERD to just tape the rims together and transfer the spokes one by
one--which may be a challenge if the old spokes and nipples are
corroded or chewed up. Not a problem with the ones on my Sprite.

If you do the work yourself, it's $150 bucks worth of rims, tires, and
small parts--to get a vintage ride that's got modern practicality.

[HDGuzzi]

On Apr 17, 9:46*am, Chip C > wrote:
> On Apr 16, 1:43 pm, landotter > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Apr 16, 12:30 pm, HDGuzzi > wrote:
>
> > > Greetings:
> > > I recently won an early '70s Raleigh Sports on e-Bay which looks to
> > > be
> > > in pretty good shape overall. It hasn't been ridden in a long while,
> > > and has what looks like to be some very minor rust/corrosion on some
> > > parts of the frame (near rear drop-outs) and on the 3 speed hub chain
> > > puller thingee. What advice might anyone provide with regard to clean
> > > up and lubrication? Should the cables be lubed? I don't really want
> > > to
> > > take the crank off or open up the hub unless absolutely necessary.
>
> > You can search this group via Google Groups for detailed advice, but
> > some quick tips: lube the hub with motor oil. Whatever you've got in
> > the trunk of your Buick is fine. When the hub is done drinking, it
> > will seep from the side of the hub. Squeeze in a few drops every
> > couple months to top it up as it is a loss system. As far as the
> > cables go, yes, you may want to lube the shifter cable with your
> > choice of lube where it goes through the housing. You'd be best served
> > to replace the brake cables and housing with modern lined and
> > stainless kit that require no lubricant and will feel far superior.
> > Don't forget to replace the brake pads. Modern pads may need some
> > washers to reach the rim on a Raleigh Sports.
>
> > Best upgrade on that bike, if you want to invest in it, is to upgrade
> > to modern aluminum rims. Here's a Sprite I modernized:http://farm1.static.flickr.com/83/254286233_35f40ec18d_o_d.jpg
>
> Thanks to landotter for the link, I didn't know Al 26x1-3/8 rims
> existed; but I have Cool-Stop Continental pads on my all-steel Sports
> and I find braking to be just fine in dry conditions. They are usable
> with caution in the wet; I ride with the brakes rubbing every so
> often, but have had occasional close calls. So while I'm loathe to
> tell anyone they don't need to improve their brakes, I'd recommend
> trying the Continentals before throwing your wheels out, especially if
> you're only riding in nice weather.
>
> Get good tires (your LBS may stock a poor selection; but more do
> exist) and replace the brake cables. Good pads don't help when the
> cables snap.
>
> I use 3-in-1 oil on the hub, 'cause it comes in a bottle with a long
> flexible tube.
>
> Harris Cyclery is your starting point for Raleigh parts, not that
> they're a well-kept secret. And there's lots of used and NOS Raleigh
> stuff on eBay. Not sure I'd pay much for 30-year-old touch-up paint,
> though.
>
> Chip C- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for the input, Chip. And I'll be sure and check Harris' out. I
do remember back in the "olden days" having trouble stopping in wet
weather. I grew out way out in the western end of San Francisco and
our Summers were always damp and foggy!

[HDGuzzi]

On Apr 17, 10:06*am, landotter > wrote:
> On Apr 17, 12:46 pm, Chip C > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Apr 16, 1:43 pm, landotter > wrote:
>
> > > On Apr 16, 12:30 pm, HDGuzzi > wrote:
>
> > > > Greetings:
> > > > I recently won an early '70s Raleigh Sports on e-Bay which looks to
> > > > be
> > > > in pretty good shape overall. It hasn't been ridden in a long while,
> > > > and has what looks like to be some very minor rust/corrosion on some
> > > > parts of the frame (near rear drop-outs) and on the 3 speed hub chain
> > > > puller thingee. What advice might anyone provide with regard to clean
> > > > up and lubrication? Should the cables be lubed? I don't really want
> > > > to
> > > > take the crank off or open up the hub unless absolutely necessary.
>
> > > You can search this group via Google Groups for detailed advice, but
> > > some quick tips: lube the hub with motor oil. Whatever you've got in
> > > the trunk of your Buick is fine. When the hub is done drinking, it
> > > will seep from the side of the hub. Squeeze in a few drops every
> > > couple months to top it up as it is a loss system. As far as the
> > > cables go, yes, you may want to lube the shifter cable with your
> > > choice of lube where it goes through the housing. You'd be best served
> > > to replace the brake cables and housing with modern lined and
> > > stainless kit that require no lubricant and will feel far superior.
> > > Don't forget to replace the brake pads. Modern pads may need some
> > > washers to reach the rim on a Raleigh Sports.
>
> > > Best upgrade on that bike, if you want to invest in it, is to upgrade
> > > to modern aluminum rims. Here's a Sprite I modernized:http://farm1.static.flickr.com/83/254286233_35f40ec18d_o_d.jpg
>
> > Thanks to landotter for the link, I didn't know Al 26x1-3/8 rims
> > existed; but I have Cool-Stop Continental pads on my all-steel Sports
> > and I find braking to be just fine in dry conditions. They are usable
> > with caution in the wet; I ride with the brakes rubbing every so
> > often, but have had occasional close calls. So while I'm loathe to
> > tell anyone they don't need to improve their brakes, I'd recommend
> > trying the Continentals before throwing your wheels out, especially if
> > you're only riding in nice weather.
>
> > Get good tires (your LBS may stock a poor selection; but more do
> > exist)
>
> That's a dilemma in that size. Kenda tires are readily available for
> about ten bucks in that size, and they're as good as what came
> originally on the bikes, but with the the thick gumwall, the ride is
> really wooden. When I put alloy rims and really supple 27" Vittoria 1
> 1/4" tires on my Sprite, the whole bike changed in character--it
> ceased to have that jangly Raleigh feel and felt quite confident in
> curves, soaked up road noise, and was palpably easier to pedal uphill.
> The only really nice 26x 1 3/8 tires I'm familiar with are the
> Panaracer Col de la Vie from Harris for $30 each. If you're gonna ride
> the bike a lot, I'd say it's more than worth the investment, but for
> just a bar bike or an occasional rider, the Kenda gumwall type is
> fine.
>
> As far as the rim replacement goes, I believe the CR18 is close enough
> in ERD to just tape the rims together and transfer the spokes one by
> one--which may be a challenge if the old spokes and nipples are
> corroded or chewed up. Not a problem with the ones on my Sprite.
>
> If you do the work yourself, it's $150 bucks worth of rims, tires, and
> small parts--to get a vintage ride that's got modern practicality.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Hi, Land...good info to be sure. Personally though, I probably won't
ride much more than around my neighborhood, and my idea is to make/
keep this bike as stock original as I can. Just found an NOS Raleigh
saddle bag and an NOS generator light set, too! Once this is the way I
want it, I'll start to re-do my 1969 Grand Prix.

[HDGuzzi]

Well, my Raleigh Sports arrived today! Hub says "77", yet there is a
1968 bicycle license from Kansas on the seat tube! So I'm guessing the
hub or wheel was probably updated in '77 or there abouts. I'll check
Sheldon's site for the serial number match as soon as I get enough
grunge off it to see the numbers.

Couple of questions:
1) Any good contacts for replacement "red R" nuts? I'm missing a few.
Both front and back axle nuts and the seat nut.
It showed up with the 3 speed cable connection into the hub broken
out. Looks like a link was torn apart.
2)Is this a hassle to get into and replace?

Rims look pretty good and will clean up nicely with some "0000" steel
wool and chrome cleaner I use on my motorcycles.
Brakes are good and cables seem to be smooth.
Hub turns and "ticks" nicely.
Front fender a bit bent, but no biggie.
Going to get new tires and tubes, even though the tires don't look
bad. I want old stock looking gum walls if I can find them.
Will need an old stock seat one of these days, too. (B-70-something?)
The one on it is an aftermarket "CHEEKS" (?) brand. Comfy, but not
correct looking.

All in all, not a bad deal for $100! Especially considering the one I
was bidding on right before this went for...$565.00! OK, it was silver
and pretty cherry, but I believe this will clean up pretty close.

Anyway, any advice on the two above questions would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks!