Tire Recommendation?

[[email protected]]

Hi,


I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
for training and longer rides (150 miles).

The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I would like to
replace them with something more puncture resistant, yet still
maintain good rolling resistance and weight. I might be willing to go
as high as $50 per tire, but no more. Any recommendations?

Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
or stay away from?

I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road bike tires on
the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing? They claimed to be looking
at an easier way to fix flats on them (an outside patch system would
get them at least one buyer ;)).

Thanks in Advance.

[David Reuteler]

wrote:
> The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I would like to
> replace them with something more puncture resistant, yet still
> maintain good rolling resistance and weight. I might be willing to go
> as high as $50 per tire, but no more. Any recommendations?

avocet fasgrip or vittoria rubino pro (i run the latter on my track bike
and i'd say they're definitely better w/r/t flats). both are nice tires.
the vittoria open corsa is noticeably worse for flats and wears quicker so
don't step up.

> Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> or stay away from?

rema. no problems patching tires tho some tires are worse than others but
vittorias are looser (so easier) than most and avocets are in the middle.
contis are murder 'specially on campag rims.

> I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road bike tires on
> the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing? They claimed to be looking
> at an easier way to fix flats on them (an outside patch system would
> get them at least one buyer ;)).

hmmmm .. ok. i have no experience with tubeless tires.
--
david reuteler

[David Reuteler]

wrote:
> The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I would like to
> replace them with something more puncture resistant, yet still
> maintain good rolling resistance and weight. I might be willing to go
> as high as $50 per tire, but no more. Any recommendations?

avocet fasgrip or vittoria rubino pro (i run the latter on my track bike
and i'd say they're definitely better w/r/t flats). both are nice tires.
the vittoria open corsa is noticeably worse for flats and wears quicker so
don't step up.

> Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> or stay away from?

rema. no problems patching tires tho some tires are worse than others but
vittorias are looser (so easier) than most and avocets are in the middle.
contis are murder 'specially on campag rims.

> I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road bike tires on
> the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing? They claimed to be looking
> at an easier way to fix flats on them (an outside patch system would
> get them at least one buyer ;)).

hmmmm .. ok. i have no experience with tubeless tires.
--
david reuteler

[Zog The Undeniable]

wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> for training and longer rides (150 miles).
>
> The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I would like to
> replace them with something more puncture resistant, yet still
> maintain good rolling resistance and weight. I might be willing to go
> as high as $50 per tire, but no more. Any recommendations?
>
> Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> or stay away from?
>
> I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road bike tires on
> the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing? They claimed to be looking
> at an easier way to fix flats on them (an outside patch system would
> get them at least one buyer ;)).


I got some bargain NOS Specialized Turbo S folding tyres (called 25mm,
but more like 20mm) from eBay. I'm very impressed - they're the fastest
I've ever ridden, and that includes the 18mm Conti GPs on my other
wheels. I would try the modern Specialized equivalent if I wanted to
pay full price.

For patches you need to get feather-edge ones. The cheap square patches
will leave a lump under the tread. Pressure doesn't really matter as
the patch is very firmly pressed against the inside of the carcass when
inflated.

What do you think of the Fuji bike? They seem remarkably good value and
the frame isn't too heavy - it probably deserves better wheels to get
the weight down.

I would forget tubeless for road use. They have a small niche in
downhill MTBing where their invulnerability to pinch flats allows very
low pressures.

[Zog The Undeniable]

wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> for training and longer rides (150 miles).
>
> The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I would like to
> replace them with something more puncture resistant, yet still
> maintain good rolling resistance and weight. I might be willing to go
> as high as $50 per tire, but no more. Any recommendations?
>
> Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> or stay away from?
>
> I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road bike tires on
> the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing? They claimed to be looking
> at an easier way to fix flats on them (an outside patch system would
> get them at least one buyer ;)).


I got some bargain NOS Specialized Turbo S folding tyres (called 25mm,
but more like 20mm) from eBay. I'm very impressed - they're the fastest
I've ever ridden, and that includes the 18mm Conti GPs on my other
wheels. I would try the modern Specialized equivalent if I wanted to
pay full price.

For patches you need to get feather-edge ones. The cheap square patches
will leave a lump under the tread. Pressure doesn't really matter as
the patch is very firmly pressed against the inside of the carcass when
inflated.

What do you think of the Fuji bike? They seem remarkably good value and
the frame isn't too heavy - it probably deserves better wheels to get
the weight down.

I would forget tubeless for road use. They have a small niche in
downhill MTBing where their invulnerability to pinch flats allows very
low pressures.

[Kevin Furrow]

I run on Vredestein Fortezza's. I've had good luck with flats (knock on
wood). I ride them about 3000 mlies a year here in New England. You can
pump them to 140 psi if you're so inclined.
The only down side I've come across is trying to find them -- I just get
them from here:
http://www.bicycletires.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&specific=joqnkne8

Kevin

> wrote in message
om...
> Hi,
>
>
> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> for training and longer rides (150 miles).
>
> The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I would like to
> replace them with something more puncture resistant, yet still
> maintain good rolling resistance and weight. I might be willing to go
> as high as $50 per tire, but no more. Any recommendations?
>
> Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> or stay away from?
>
> I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road bike tires on
> the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing? They claimed to be looking
> at an easier way to fix flats on them (an outside patch system would
> get them at least one buyer ;)).
>
> Thanks in Advance.

[Kevin Furrow]

I run on Vredestein Fortezza's. I've had good luck with flats (knock on
wood). I ride them about 3000 mlies a year here in New England. You can
pump them to 140 psi if you're so inclined.
The only down side I've come across is trying to find them -- I just get
them from here:
http://www.bicycletires.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&specific=joqnkne8

Kevin

> wrote in message
om...
> Hi,
>
>
> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> for training and longer rides (150 miles).
>
> The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I would like to
> replace them with something more puncture resistant, yet still
> maintain good rolling resistance and weight. I might be willing to go
> as high as $50 per tire, but no more. Any recommendations?
>
> Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> or stay away from?
>
> I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road bike tires on
> the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing? They claimed to be looking
> at an easier way to fix flats on them (an outside patch system would
> get them at least one buyer ;)).
>
> Thanks in Advance.

[Peter Cole]

> wrote
> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> for training and longer rides (150 miles).
>
> The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I would like to
> replace them with something more puncture resistant, yet still
> maintain good rolling resistance and weight. I might be willing to go
> as high as $50 per tire, but no more. Any recommendations?

Panaracer Paselas or IRC RoadWinner, either is <$15. Good quality, durable,
light, Japanese-made tires.

> Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> or stay away from?

Not to quibble, but you patch tubes, not tires. Patching is a simple thing,
it's all technique, read the FAQ. I've had good luck with generic patch kits,
although Rema is the nicest. Sometimes glue can dry out (I've even had it
happen in an unopened tube), so I carry a couple of "glueless" patches, which
are otherwise pretty useless since they don't last very long (a few months) at
high pressure, and are hard to remove later when you need to put on a
permanent patch. Most experienced riders will carry an extra tube (or 2), slap
that on after a flat and do the patching at home.

[Peter Cole]

> wrote
> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> for training and longer rides (150 miles).
>
> The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I would like to
> replace them with something more puncture resistant, yet still
> maintain good rolling resistance and weight. I might be willing to go
> as high as $50 per tire, but no more. Any recommendations?

Panaracer Paselas or IRC RoadWinner, either is <$15. Good quality, durable,
light, Japanese-made tires.

> Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> or stay away from?

Not to quibble, but you patch tubes, not tires. Patching is a simple thing,
it's all technique, read the FAQ. I've had good luck with generic patch kits,
although Rema is the nicest. Sometimes glue can dry out (I've even had it
happen in an unopened tube), so I carry a couple of "glueless" patches, which
are otherwise pretty useless since they don't last very long (a few months) at
high pressure, and are hard to remove later when you need to put on a
permanent patch. Most experienced riders will carry an extra tube (or 2), slap
that on after a flat and do the patching at home.

[Erik Lindeberg]

Tufo C Elite Road Hi-TPI tubeless clincher tubular
http://www.tufo.com/index.php?lg=en&mn=1&id=39 will
be slightly more exspensve than you maximum of $50,
(typically $65 on eBay), but if puncture resistance is your
prioroty, this is the tire. The wheight is 315 g, but that includes
the tube and you can (should) remove your rim tape.

How to patch them? Never mind, no more flats.
(Or bomb proof - add a little of Tofo self sealant compound
when you pump them up)

Erik

> wrote in message
om...
> Hi,
>
>
> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> for training and longer rides (150 miles).
>
> The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I would like to
> replace them with something more puncture resistant, yet still
> maintain good rolling resistance and weight. I might be willing to go
> as high as $50 per tire, but no more. Any recommendations?
>
> Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> or stay away from?
>
> I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road bike tires on
> the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing? They claimed to be looking
> at an easier way to fix flats on them (an outside patch system would
> get them at least one buyer ;)).
>
> Thanks in Advance.

[Erik Lindeberg]

Tufo C Elite Road Hi-TPI tubeless clincher tubular
http://www.tufo.com/index.php?lg=en&mn=1&id=39 will
be slightly more exspensve than you maximum of $50,
(typically $65 on eBay), but if puncture resistance is your
prioroty, this is the tire. The wheight is 315 g, but that includes
the tube and you can (should) remove your rim tape.

How to patch them? Never mind, no more flats.
(Or bomb proof - add a little of Tofo self sealant compound
when you pump them up)

Erik

> wrote in message
om...
> Hi,
>
>
> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> for training and longer rides (150 miles).
>
> The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I would like to
> replace them with something more puncture resistant, yet still
> maintain good rolling resistance and weight. I might be willing to go
> as high as $50 per tire, but no more. Any recommendations?
>
> Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> or stay away from?
>
> I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road bike tires on
> the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing? They claimed to be looking
> at an easier way to fix flats on them (an outside patch system would
> get them at least one buyer ;)).
>
> Thanks in Advance.

[Harris]

Zog The Undeniable > wrote:

> I got some bargain NOS Specialized Turbo S folding tyres (called 25mm,
> but more like 20mm) from eBay. I'm very impressed - they're the fastest
> I've ever ridden, and that includes the 18mm Conti GPs on my other
> wheels. I would try the modern Specialized equivalent if I wanted to
> pay full price.

Aren't those the ones that had the raised ridge on the center of the tire.
I hated them! And they were very flat prone.

Art Harris

[Harris]

Zog The Undeniable > wrote:

> I got some bargain NOS Specialized Turbo S folding tyres (called 25mm,
> but more like 20mm) from eBay. I'm very impressed - they're the fastest
> I've ever ridden, and that includes the 18mm Conti GPs on my other
> wheels. I would try the modern Specialized equivalent if I wanted to
> pay full price.

Aren't those the ones that had the raised ridge on the center of the tire.
I hated them! And they were very flat prone.

Art Harris

[[email protected]]

> I got some bargain NOS Specialized Turbo S folding tyres (called 25mm,
> but more like 20mm) from eBay. I'm very impressed - they're the fastest
> I've ever ridden, and that includes the 18mm Conti GPs on my other
> wheels. I would try the modern Specialized equivalent if I wanted to
> pay full price.

It depends on what the full price is :). Also, my LBS doesn't carry
Specialized. I could go elsewhere, but if I can get the same quality
in something they stock, it'll be more convenient and they'll put it
on for free since the bike is still under service. Less work for me
:D.


> For patches you need to get feather-edge ones. The cheap square patches
> will leave a lump under the tread. Pressure doesn't really matter as
> the patch is very firmly pressed against the inside of the carcass when
> inflated.

Got it. I have patched tires before (on my Fuji Boulevard FS Mountain
Bike), but they leaked.



> What do you think of the Fuji bike? They seem remarkably good value and
> the frame isn't too heavy - it probably deserves better wheels to get
> the weight down.

So far, I love it. It's extremely light and fun to ride. My only
quibble with is the wheels aren't quick release. As you can see from
the above, I have another Fuji bike which is great as well. Those
bikes are fantastic deals.



> I would forget tubeless for road use. They have a small niche in
> downhill MTBing where their invulnerability to pinch flats allows very
> low pressures.

The only reason I'd consider a tubeless tire is if the patching is
simplified. Apart from that, I cannot see any use for them either.


Thank you for your response.

[[email protected]]

> I got some bargain NOS Specialized Turbo S folding tyres (called 25mm,
> but more like 20mm) from eBay. I'm very impressed - they're the fastest
> I've ever ridden, and that includes the 18mm Conti GPs on my other
> wheels. I would try the modern Specialized equivalent if I wanted to
> pay full price.

It depends on what the full price is :). Also, my LBS doesn't carry
Specialized. I could go elsewhere, but if I can get the same quality
in something they stock, it'll be more convenient and they'll put it
on for free since the bike is still under service. Less work for me
:D.


> For patches you need to get feather-edge ones. The cheap square patches
> will leave a lump under the tread. Pressure doesn't really matter as
> the patch is very firmly pressed against the inside of the carcass when
> inflated.

Got it. I have patched tires before (on my Fuji Boulevard FS Mountain
Bike), but they leaked.



> What do you think of the Fuji bike? They seem remarkably good value and
> the frame isn't too heavy - it probably deserves better wheels to get
> the weight down.

So far, I love it. It's extremely light and fun to ride. My only
quibble with is the wheels aren't quick release. As you can see from
the above, I have another Fuji bike which is great as well. Those
bikes are fantastic deals.



> I would forget tubeless for road use. They have a small niche in
> downhill MTBing where their invulnerability to pinch flats allows very
> low pressures.

The only reason I'd consider a tubeless tire is if the patching is
simplified. Apart from that, I cannot see any use for them either.


Thank you for your response.

[[email protected]]

> > Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> > especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> > or stay away from?
>
> Not to quibble, but you patch tubes, not tires. Patching is a simple thing,
> it's all technique, read the FAQ. I've had good luck with generic patch kits,
> although Rema is the nicest. Sometimes glue can dry out (I've even had it
> happen in an unopened tube), so I carry a couple of "glueless" patches, which
> are otherwise pretty useless since they don't last very long (a few months) at
> high pressure, and are hard to remove later when you need to put on a
> permanent patch. Most experienced riders will carry an extra tube (or 2), slap
> that on after a flat and do the patching at home.

Yes, I was sloppy with my terms, sorry. I've never had a patch hold,
whether on a road bike or a mountain bike. I used both Rema patches,
and generic glueless patches. The generic ones were worthless. The
Rema ones held long enough for me to get home, but would leak
overnight. I got in the habit of carrying multiple inner tubes and
just replacing damaged ones and throwing them away. I wanted to make
sure the problem wasn't the brand, as I followed the directions to the
letter.


Thanks.

[[email protected]]

> > Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> > especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> > or stay away from?
>
> Not to quibble, but you patch tubes, not tires. Patching is a simple thing,
> it's all technique, read the FAQ. I've had good luck with generic patch kits,
> although Rema is the nicest. Sometimes glue can dry out (I've even had it
> happen in an unopened tube), so I carry a couple of "glueless" patches, which
> are otherwise pretty useless since they don't last very long (a few months) at
> high pressure, and are hard to remove later when you need to put on a
> permanent patch. Most experienced riders will carry an extra tube (or 2), slap
> that on after a flat and do the patching at home.

Yes, I was sloppy with my terms, sorry. I've never had a patch hold,
whether on a road bike or a mountain bike. I used both Rema patches,
and generic glueless patches. The generic ones were worthless. The
Rema ones held long enough for me to get home, but would leak
overnight. I got in the habit of carrying multiple inner tubes and
just replacing damaged ones and throwing them away. I wanted to make
sure the problem wasn't the brand, as I followed the directions to the
letter.


Thanks.

[Peter Cole]

> wrote in message
m...
> > > Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> > > especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> > > or stay away from?
> >
> > Not to quibble, but you patch tubes, not tires. Patching is a simple
thing,
> > it's all technique, read the FAQ. I've had good luck with generic patch
kits,
> > although Rema is the nicest. Sometimes glue can dry out (I've even had it
> > happen in an unopened tube), so I carry a couple of "glueless" patches,
which
> > are otherwise pretty useless since they don't last very long (a few
months) at
> > high pressure, and are hard to remove later when you need to put on a
> > permanent patch. Most experienced riders will carry an extra tube (or 2),
slap
> > that on after a flat and do the patching at home.
>
> Yes, I was sloppy with my terms, sorry. I've never had a patch hold,
> whether on a road bike or a mountain bike. I used both Rema patches,
> and generic glueless patches. The generic ones were worthless. The
> Rema ones held long enough for me to get home, but would leak
> overnight. I got in the habit of carrying multiple inner tubes and
> just replacing damaged ones and throwing them away. I wanted to make
> sure the problem wasn't the brand, as I followed the directions to the
> letter.

That's odd, I've used all kinds of patches, and don't think I've ever had one
fail, even the generic glueless will last several months. Since you have
trouble getting either type to work, I think it must be a problem with the
surface of the tube still being contaminated with mold release. That stuff
will prevent sticking (by design), that's why scrapers and/or sandpaper is
included. Some people report success using alcohol to clean it off also. I
usually sand mine then wipe the area vigorously with cloth (bike shorts, etc.)
before applying glue. I also smear the glue with finger pressure, wait for it
to dry completely (very important!) before pressing the patch on, using a flat
surface. Curing overnight makes the most reliable repair. If the weather is
good, I'll patch on the road, but use the spare tube, otherwise patch at home.

[Peter Cole]

> wrote in message
m...
> > > Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
> > > especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
> > > or stay away from?
> >
> > Not to quibble, but you patch tubes, not tires. Patching is a simple
thing,
> > it's all technique, read the FAQ. I've had good luck with generic patch
kits,
> > although Rema is the nicest. Sometimes glue can dry out (I've even had it
> > happen in an unopened tube), so I carry a couple of "glueless" patches,
which
> > are otherwise pretty useless since they don't last very long (a few
months) at
> > high pressure, and are hard to remove later when you need to put on a
> > permanent patch. Most experienced riders will carry an extra tube (or 2),
slap
> > that on after a flat and do the patching at home.
>
> Yes, I was sloppy with my terms, sorry. I've never had a patch hold,
> whether on a road bike or a mountain bike. I used both Rema patches,
> and generic glueless patches. The generic ones were worthless. The
> Rema ones held long enough for me to get home, but would leak
> overnight. I got in the habit of carrying multiple inner tubes and
> just replacing damaged ones and throwing them away. I wanted to make
> sure the problem wasn't the brand, as I followed the directions to the
> letter.

That's odd, I've used all kinds of patches, and don't think I've ever had one
fail, even the generic glueless will last several months. Since you have
trouble getting either type to work, I think it must be a problem with the
surface of the tube still being contaminated with mold release. That stuff
will prevent sticking (by design), that's why scrapers and/or sandpaper is
included. Some people report success using alcohol to clean it off also. I
usually sand mine then wipe the area vigorously with cloth (bike shorts, etc.)
before applying glue. I also smear the glue with finger pressure, wait for it
to dry completely (very important!) before pressing the patch on, using a flat
surface. Curing overnight makes the most reliable repair. If the weather is
good, I'll patch on the road, but use the spare tube, otherwise patch at home.

[Douglas Landau]

"Peter Cole" > wrote in message news:<Vm9hc.33324$0b4.47710@attbi_s51>...

> That's odd, I've used all kinds of patches, and don't think I've ever had one
> fail, even the generic glueless will last several months. Since you have
> trouble getting either type to work, I think it must be a problem with the
> surface of the tube still being contaminated with mold release. That stuff
> will prevent sticking (by design), that's why scrapers and/or sandpaper is
> included. Some people report success using alcohol to clean it off also. I
> usually sand mine then wipe the area vigorously with cloth (bike shorts, etc.)
> before applying glue. I also smear the glue with finger pressure, wait for it
> to dry completely (very important!) before pressing the patch on, using a flat
> surface. Curing overnight makes the most reliable repair. If the weather is
> good, I'll patch on the road, but use the spare tube, otherwise patch at home.

What do you do when the hole is near a rib? I have pretty good success
except when the patch straddles a rib.

thanks
dl

[Douglas Landau]

"Peter Cole" > wrote in message news:<Vm9hc.33324$0b4.47710@attbi_s51>...

> That's odd, I've used all kinds of patches, and don't think I've ever had one
> fail, even the generic glueless will last several months. Since you have
> trouble getting either type to work, I think it must be a problem with the
> surface of the tube still being contaminated with mold release. That stuff
> will prevent sticking (by design), that's why scrapers and/or sandpaper is
> included. Some people report success using alcohol to clean it off also. I
> usually sand mine then wipe the area vigorously with cloth (bike shorts, etc.)
> before applying glue. I also smear the glue with finger pressure, wait for it
> to dry completely (very important!) before pressing the patch on, using a flat
> surface. Curing overnight makes the most reliable repair. If the weather is
> good, I'll patch on the road, but use the spare tube, otherwise patch at home.

What do you do when the hole is near a rib? I have pretty good success
except when the patch straddles a rib.

thanks
dl

[Chalo]

(Douglas Landau) wrote:
>
> "Peter Cole" > wrote:
> >
> > Since you have
> > trouble getting either type to work, I think it must be a problem with the
> > surface of the tube still being contaminated with mold release. That stuff
> > will prevent sticking (by design), that's why scrapers and/or sandpaper is
> > included. Some people report success using alcohol to clean it off also. I
> > usually sand mine then wipe the area vigorously with cloth <snip>
>
> What do you do when the hole is near a rib? I have pretty good success
> except when the patch straddles a rib.

That's what the sandpaper is for. Use it like you mean it.

Chalo Colina

[Chalo]

(Douglas Landau) wrote:
>
> "Peter Cole" > wrote:
> >
> > Since you have
> > trouble getting either type to work, I think it must be a problem with the
> > surface of the tube still being contaminated with mold release. That stuff
> > will prevent sticking (by design), that's why scrapers and/or sandpaper is
> > included. Some people report success using alcohol to clean it off also. I
> > usually sand mine then wipe the area vigorously with cloth <snip>
>
> What do you do when the hole is near a rib? I have pretty good success
> except when the patch straddles a rib.

That's what the sandpaper is for. Use it like you mean it.

Chalo Colina

[David Damerell]

Douglas Landau > wrote:
>What do you do when the hole is near a rib? I have pretty good success
>except when the patch straddles a rib.

I carry the head from one of those razors with disposable blade
assemblies, and shave the seam off the tube. No, really.
--
David Damerell > Distortion Field!

[David Damerell]

Douglas Landau > wrote:
>What do you do when the hole is near a rib? I have pretty good success
>except when the patch straddles a rib.

I carry the head from one of those razors with disposable blade
assemblies, and shave the seam off the tube. No, really.
--
David Damerell > Distortion Field!

[dvt]

wrote:

> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> for training and longer rides (150 miles).

150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're tougher than I.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

[dvt]

wrote:

> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> for training and longer rides (150 miles).

150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're tougher than I.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

[Benjamin Lewis]

wrote:

> wrote:
>
>> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
>> for training and longer rides (150 miles).
>
> 150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're tougher than I.

How about 1200 km on a fixed gear in the Rockies?
http://www.mile43.com/peterson/Rocky.html

Still aspiring to this distance on a geared bike,

--
Benjamin Lewis

A small, but vocal, contingent even argues that tin is superior, but they
are held by most to be the lunatic fringe of Foil Deflector Beanie science.

[Benjamin Lewis]

wrote:

> wrote:
>
>> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
>> for training and longer rides (150 miles).
>
> 150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're tougher than I.

How about 1200 km on a fixed gear in the Rockies?
http://www.mile43.com/peterson/Rocky.html

Still aspiring to this distance on a geared bike,

--
Benjamin Lewis

A small, but vocal, contingent even argues that tin is superior, but they
are held by most to be the lunatic fringe of Foil Deflector Beanie science.

[[email protected]]

dvt > wrote in message >...
> wrote:
>
> > I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> > for training and longer rides (150 miles).
>
> 150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're tougher than I.

Hehehehehe. 150 miles is what I'm training for (the MS150 from
Houston to Austin). My training rides may not exceed 80 miles.

That's my goal -- whether or not I can make it remains to be seen :).
The most I've done on a fixed gear is 20 miles or so, and this is
through relatively flat terrain (Houston). I also commute and run
errands on fixed gear bikes, but this is nothing compared to what I
will need to achieve.

My biggest concern is the hills. I will need to find some way to
train for those.


Wish me luck :D

[[email protected]]

dvt > wrote in message >...
> wrote:
>
> > I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> > for training and longer rides (150 miles).
>
> 150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're tougher than I.

Hehehehehe. 150 miles is what I'm training for (the MS150 from
Houston to Austin). My training rides may not exceed 80 miles.

That's my goal -- whether or not I can make it remains to be seen :).
The most I've done on a fixed gear is 20 miles or so, and this is
through relatively flat terrain (Houston). I also commute and run
errands on fixed gear bikes, but this is nothing compared to what I
will need to achieve.

My biggest concern is the hills. I will need to find some way to
train for those.


Wish me luck :D

[[email protected]]

Benjamin Lewis > wrote in message >...
> wrote:
>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> >> for training and longer rides (150 miles).
> >
> > 150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're tougher than I.
>
> How about 1200 km on a fixed gear in the Rockies?
> http://www.mile43.com/peterson/Rocky.html

I read the page -- wow. That gives me hope. The hilly terrain on the
2nd half of the 150 miler doesn't make me feel so bad. Did you do any
training, and if so what?


> Still aspiring to this distance on a geared bike,

It's funny, but my knees hurt when I ride a geared freewheel. I find
it easier to deal with slopes on a fixed gear. There are other
variables though (my fixie commuter is a 24 inch, while the freewheel
I tried it on was a 26 inch).


Take Care.

[[email protected]]

Benjamin Lewis > wrote in message >...
> wrote:
>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I think) @ 110 PSI
> >> for training and longer rides (150 miles).
> >
> > 150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're tougher than I.
>
> How about 1200 km on a fixed gear in the Rockies?
> http://www.mile43.com/peterson/Rocky.html

I read the page -- wow. That gives me hope. The hilly terrain on the
2nd half of the 150 miler doesn't make me feel so bad. Did you do any
training, and if so what?


> Still aspiring to this distance on a geared bike,

It's funny, but my knees hurt when I ride a geared freewheel. I find
it easier to deal with slopes on a fixed gear. There are other
variables though (my fixie commuter is a 24 inch, while the freewheel
I tried it on was a 26 inch).


Take Care.

[Benjamin Lewis]

wrote:

> Benjamin Lewis > wrote in message
>>
>> How about 1200 km on a fixed gear in the Rockies?
>> http://www.mile43.com/peterson/Rocky.html
>
> I read the page -- wow. That gives me hope. The hilly terrain on the
> 2nd half of the 150 miler doesn't make me feel so bad. Did you do any
> training, and if so what?

That wasn't me. The hardest ride *I* have done is 600 km on a touring bike
with lots of gears, and that was mostly flat. I now have a fixie, as of a
couple weeks ago, but I haven't gone more than a few km at a time on it
yet. I sure love the increased feeling of feedback and control one gets.

>> Still aspiring to this distance on a geared bike,
>
> It's funny, but my knees hurt when I ride a geared freewheel. I find
> it easier to deal with slopes on a fixed gear.

Can't you just choose a different gear on your freewheel bike?

--
Benjamin Lewis

Seeing is deceiving. It's eating that's believing.
-- James Thurber

[Benjamin Lewis]

wrote:

> Benjamin Lewis > wrote in message
>>
>> How about 1200 km on a fixed gear in the Rockies?
>> http://www.mile43.com/peterson/Rocky.html
>
> I read the page -- wow. That gives me hope. The hilly terrain on the
> 2nd half of the 150 miler doesn't make me feel so bad. Did you do any
> training, and if so what?

That wasn't me. The hardest ride *I* have done is 600 km on a touring bike
with lots of gears, and that was mostly flat. I now have a fixie, as of a
couple weeks ago, but I haven't gone more than a few km at a time on it
yet. I sure love the increased feeling of feedback and control one gets.

>> Still aspiring to this distance on a geared bike,
>
> It's funny, but my knees hurt when I ride a geared freewheel. I find
> it easier to deal with slopes on a fixed gear.

Can't you just choose a different gear on your freewheel bike?

--
Benjamin Lewis

Seeing is deceiving. It's eating that's believing.
-- James Thurber

[[email protected]]

> > I read the page -- wow. That gives me hope. The hilly terrain on the
> > 2nd half of the 150 miler doesn't make me feel so bad. Did you do any
> > training, and if so what?
>
> That wasn't me. The hardest ride *I* have done is 600 km on a touring bike
> with lots of gears, and that was mostly flat. I now have a fixie, as of a
> couple weeks ago, but I haven't gone more than a few km at a time on it
> yet. I sure love the increased feeling of feedback and control one gets.

Ditto. After a few days of riding a fixed gear, I never wanted to
ride a freewheel again. I still don't, except when I'm going downhill
(unpleasant on a fixed gear).



> >> Still aspiring to this distance on a geared bike,
> >
> > It's funny, but my knees hurt when I ride a geared freewheel. I find
> > it easier to deal with slopes on a fixed gear.
>
> Can't you just choose a different gear on your freewheel bike?

I did, and my knees still hurt. I think the momentum from the fixed
gear helped me maintain my cadence and assisted when I stood while
pedaling. It was too easy to stop pedalling on a freewheel, and when
I started pedaling again (or stood to pedal) I must have put too much
energy behind it and hurt myself. The whole ride seemed very jerky to
me, and the switching between gears was jarring on my knees.


Take Care.

[[email protected]]

> > I read the page -- wow. That gives me hope. The hilly terrain on the
> > 2nd half of the 150 miler doesn't make me feel so bad. Did you do any
> > training, and if so what?
>
> That wasn't me. The hardest ride *I* have done is 600 km on a touring bike
> with lots of gears, and that was mostly flat. I now have a fixie, as of a
> couple weeks ago, but I haven't gone more than a few km at a time on it
> yet. I sure love the increased feeling of feedback and control one gets.

Ditto. After a few days of riding a fixed gear, I never wanted to
ride a freewheel again. I still don't, except when I'm going downhill
(unpleasant on a fixed gear).



> >> Still aspiring to this distance on a geared bike,
> >
> > It's funny, but my knees hurt when I ride a geared freewheel. I find
> > it easier to deal with slopes on a fixed gear.
>
> Can't you just choose a different gear on your freewheel bike?

I did, and my knees still hurt. I think the momentum from the fixed
gear helped me maintain my cadence and assisted when I stood while
pedaling. It was too easy to stop pedalling on a freewheel, and when
I started pedaling again (or stood to pedal) I must have put too much
energy behind it and hurt myself. The whole ride seemed very jerky to
me, and the switching between gears was jarring on my knees.


Take Care.

[Jay Beattie]

> wrote in message
om...
> dvt > wrote in message
>...
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I
think) @ 110 PSI
> > > for training and longer rides (150 miles).
> >
> > 150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're tougher than
I.
>
> Hehehehehe. 150 miles is what I'm training for (the MS150 from
> Houston to Austin). My training rides may not exceed 80 miles.
>
> That's my goal -- whether or not I can make it remains to be
seen :).
> The most I've done on a fixed gear is 20 miles or so, and this
is
> through relatively flat terrain (Houston). I also commute and
run
> errands on fixed gear bikes, but this is nothing compared to
what I
> will need to achieve.
>
> My biggest concern is the hills. I will need to find some way
to
> train for those.

Take a flip-flop. It will save your legs on a long down hill. It
will also allow you to ride down with the people you rode up.
Remember that riding fixed gear is often a solitary activity,
especially if you picked a 70 inch gear and you want to ride with
the tandems who are doing 35mph on the flats -- or the big hill
gets over 8% for any real distance. -- Jay Beattie.

[Jay Beattie]

> wrote in message
om...
> dvt > wrote in message
>...
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I
think) @ 110 PSI
> > > for training and longer rides (150 miles).
> >
> > 150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're tougher than
I.
>
> Hehehehehe. 150 miles is what I'm training for (the MS150 from
> Houston to Austin). My training rides may not exceed 80 miles.
>
> That's my goal -- whether or not I can make it remains to be
seen :).
> The most I've done on a fixed gear is 20 miles or so, and this
is
> through relatively flat terrain (Houston). I also commute and
run
> errands on fixed gear bikes, but this is nothing compared to
what I
> will need to achieve.
>
> My biggest concern is the hills. I will need to find some way
to
> train for those.

Take a flip-flop. It will save your legs on a long down hill. It
will also allow you to ride down with the people you rode up.
Remember that riding fixed gear is often a solitary activity,
especially if you picked a 70 inch gear and you want to ride with
the tandems who are doing 35mph on the flats -- or the big hill
gets over 8% for any real distance. -- Jay Beattie.

[Rick Onanian]

On 17 Apr 2004 16:23:33 -0700, wrote:
>Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
>especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
>or stay away from?

I expect this should suffice as a patch (or, if you prefer,
permanent boot) for high pressure bicycle _tires_:
http://www.brandnametools.biz/automotive/r/Repair_Kits/_1419457.htm
but I haven't tried it.
--
Rick Onanian

[Rick Onanian]

On 17 Apr 2004 16:23:33 -0700, wrote:
>Also, how have your experiences been with patching road bike tires --
>especially high pressure ones? Any patch brands you recommend to buy
>or stay away from?

I expect this should suffice as a patch (or, if you prefer,
permanent boot) for high pressure bicycle _tires_:
http://www.brandnametools.biz/automotive/r/Repair_Kits/_1419457.htm
but I haven't tried it.
--
Rick Onanian