Token hub bearing replacement

[Graham]

Anyone have any experience of replacing the bearings in the hubs of Token
rear wheels. A friend of mine bought a pair of these wheels in Australia
about two years ago. The rims are C30A and the hubs are - well it looks like
C.C.Lira but the graphic art work is so stylised as to make it virtually
unreadable. However there is readable identification mark - TK195-07L. The
wheels have bladed spokes.

The seals have completely failed on one of the 4 bearings and the bearing
has corroded so badly that it has broken up.

If it is possible to replace the bearings does anyone know where I could get
hold of a set in the UK and how difficult the replacement job might be. It
looks as though it would simply be - press the old ones out and the new ones
in. I have already stripped the hub down completely save for pressing out
the bearings.

Graham.

[landotter]

On May 24, 2:41*pm, "Graham" >
wrote:
> Anyone have any experience of replacing the bearings in the hubs of Token
> rear wheels. A friend of mine bought a pair of these wheels in Australia
> about two years ago. The rims are C30A and the hubs are - well it looks like
> C.C.Lira but the graphic art work is so stylised as to make it virtually
> unreadable. However there is readable identification mark - TK195-07L. The
> wheels have bladed spokes.
>
> The seals have completely failed on one of the 4 bearings and the bearing
> has corroded so badly that it has broken up.
>
> If it is possible to replace the bearings does anyone know where I could get
> hold of a set in the UK and how difficult the replacement job might be. It
> looks as though it would simply be - press the old ones out and the new ones
> in.

That's about it. Punch the old ones out from behind with whatever you
don't care about. I use an old screwdriver and a mallet. Then press in
the new ones with a block of wood and a hammer/mallet, making sure
that everything's even and flush. Just a couple minutes time. Grease
the outside of the bearing--as it's steel friction fit in alu--which
could otherwise chemically weld together.

[Graham]

"landotter" > wrote in message
...
On May 24, 2:41pm, "Graham" >
wrote:
[Snip]
> If it is possible to replace the bearings does anyone know where I could
> get
> hold of a set in the UK and how difficult the replacement job might be. It
> looks as though it would simply be - press the old ones out and the new
> ones
> in.

That's about it. Punch the old ones out from behind with whatever you
don't care about. I use an old screwdriver and a mallet. Then press in
the new ones with a block of wood and a hammer/mallet, making sure
that everything's even and flush. Just a couple minutes time. Grease
the outside of the bearing--as it's steel friction fit in alu--which
could otherwise chemically weld together.

Thanks landotter. All I now need to do is track down a supplier of the
required bearings unless of course they are a generic spec which I could
get from any bearing supplier. Anyone know what the generic equivalents
might be?

Graham.

[Peter Cole[_2_]]

Graham wrote:
>
> "landotter" > wrote in message
> ...
> On May 24, 2:41pm, "Graham" >
> wrote:
> [Snip]
>> If it is possible to replace the bearings does anyone know where I
>> could get
>> hold of a set in the UK and how difficult the replacement job might
>> be. It
>> looks as though it would simply be - press the old ones out and the
>> new ones
>> in.
>
> That's about it. Punch the old ones out from behind with whatever you
> don't care about. I use an old screwdriver and a mallet. Then press in
> the new ones with a block of wood and a hammer/mallet, making sure
> that everything's even and flush. Just a couple minutes time. Grease
> the outside of the bearing--as it's steel friction fit in alu--which
> could otherwise chemically weld together.
>
> Thanks landotter. All I now need to do is track down a supplier of the
> required bearings unless of course they are a generic spec which I
> could get from any bearing supplier. Anyone know what the generic
> equivalents might be?
>
> Graham.

Often bearings are stamped with a number that can be cross-referenced.
If you have a caliper, perhaps measuring the ID, OD & thickness will get
you a serviceable replacement. I don't have any experience with
cartridge bearing hubs, but I do with cartridge bearings, I'd be
surprised if they use anything unique.

[RonSonic]

On Sun, 24 May 2009 21:50:44 +0100, "Graham"
> wrote:

>
>"landotter" > wrote in message
...
>On May 24, 2:41pm, "Graham" >
>wrote:
>[Snip]
>> If it is possible to replace the bearings does anyone know where I could
>> get
>> hold of a set in the UK and how difficult the replacement job might be. It
>> looks as though it would simply be - press the old ones out and the new
>> ones
>> in.
>
>That's about it. Punch the old ones out from behind with whatever you
>don't care about. I use an old screwdriver and a mallet. Then press in
>the new ones with a block of wood and a hammer/mallet, making sure
>that everything's even and flush. Just a couple minutes time. Grease
>the outside of the bearing--as it's steel friction fit in alu--which
>could otherwise chemically weld together.
>
>Thanks landotter. All I now need to do is track down a supplier of the
>required bearings unless of course they are a generic spec which I could
>get from any bearing supplier. Anyone know what the generic equivalents
>might be?

Most cartridge bearings are generic and are stamped with a number that a bearing
house (most cities have one) can match up. Failing a legible number (it'll be
stamped on an outer edge) they can almost always find an equivalent.

[AMuzi]

Graham wrote:
>
> "landotter" > wrote in message
> ...
> On May 24, 2:41pm, "Graham" >
> wrote:
> [Snip]
>> If it is possible to replace the bearings does anyone know where I
>> could get
>> hold of a set in the UK and how difficult the replacement job might
>> be. It
>> looks as though it would simply be - press the old ones out and the
>> new ones
>> in.
>
> That's about it. Punch the old ones out from behind with whatever you
> don't care about. I use an old screwdriver and a mallet. Then press in
> the new ones with a block of wood and a hammer/mallet, making sure
> that everything's even and flush. Just a couple minutes time. Grease
> the outside of the bearing--as it's steel friction fit in alu--which
> could otherwise chemically weld together.
>
> Thanks landotter. All I now need to do is track down a supplier of the
> required bearings unless of course they are a generic spec which I
> could get from any bearing supplier. Anyone know what the generic
> equivalents might be?

If you cannot read the number on the seal, simply measure it.

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[Graham]

"RonSonic" > wrote in message
...
> On Sun, 24 May 2009 21:50:44 +0100, "Graham"
> > wrote:
>
>>
>>"landotter" > wrote in message
...
>>On May 24, 2:41pm, "Graham" >
>>wrote:
>>[Snip]
>>> If it is possible to replace the bearings does anyone know where I could
>>> get
>>> hold of a set in the UK and how difficult the replacement job might be.
>>> It
>>> looks as though it would simply be - press the old ones out and the new
>>> ones
>>> in.
>>
>>That's about it. Punch the old ones out from behind with whatever you
>>don't care about. I use an old screwdriver and a mallet. Then press in
>>the new ones with a block of wood and a hammer/mallet, making sure
>>that everything's even and flush. Just a couple minutes time. Grease
>>the outside of the bearing--as it's steel friction fit in alu--which
>>could otherwise chemically weld together.
>>
>>Thanks landotter. All I now need to do is track down a supplier of the
>>required bearings unless of course they are a generic spec which I could
>>get from any bearing supplier. Anyone know what the generic equivalents
>>might be?
>
> Most cartridge bearings are generic and are stamped with a number that a
> bearing
> house (most cities have one) can match up. Failing a legible number (it'll
> be
> stamped on an outer edge) they can almost always find an equivalent.

Thanks to all you guys who replied. I did as you suggested and eventually
found numbers on the old bearings. They turned out to be 2 x 6802-2RS and 2
x 6902-2RS which are indeed standard generic bearings and are readily
available here in the UK over the internet for £7 delivered. In that case
the wheel should be back on the road next weekend.

Graham.

[RonSonic]

On Mon, 25 May 2009 10:50:06 +0100, "Graham"
> wrote:

>
>"RonSonic" > wrote in message
...
>> On Sun, 24 May 2009 21:50:44 +0100, "Graham"
>> > wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"landotter" > wrote in message
...
>>>On May 24, 2:41pm, "Graham" >
>>>wrote:
>>>[Snip]
>>>> If it is possible to replace the bearings does anyone know where I could
>>>> get
>>>> hold of a set in the UK and how difficult the replacement job might be.
>>>> It
>>>> looks as though it would simply be - press the old ones out and the new
>>>> ones
>>>> in.
>>>
>>>That's about it. Punch the old ones out from behind with whatever you
>>>don't care about. I use an old screwdriver and a mallet. Then press in
>>>the new ones with a block of wood and a hammer/mallet, making sure
>>>that everything's even and flush. Just a couple minutes time. Grease
>>>the outside of the bearing--as it's steel friction fit in alu--which
>>>could otherwise chemically weld together.
>>>
>>>Thanks landotter. All I now need to do is track down a supplier of the
>>>required bearings unless of course they are a generic spec which I could
>>>get from any bearing supplier. Anyone know what the generic equivalents
>>>might be?
>>
>> Most cartridge bearings are generic and are stamped with a number that a
>> bearing
>> house (most cities have one) can match up. Failing a legible number (it'll
>> be
>> stamped on an outer edge) they can almost always find an equivalent.
>
>Thanks to all you guys who replied. I did as you suggested and eventually
>found numbers on the old bearings. They turned out to be 2 x 6802-2RS and 2
>x 6902-2RS which are indeed standard generic bearings and are readily
>available here in the UK over the internet for £7 delivered. In that case
>the wheel should be back on the road next weekend.

One of the wonders of this modern age. There's a lot to be said for handcrafts
and workmanship, but being able to replace a bearing anywhere on the planet
regardless of the product's origin is a beautiful thing.