Sealant Should Be Between the Tube and the Tire

[Bret Cahill]

Instead of putting sealant inside of the tube smear a smaller quantity inside of the tire and then install the inner tube.

Theory:

When the tire and tube are punctured the venturi effect will force the sealant near the hole into the hole in the tire and seal the tire much like a tubless tire. Any channels formed in the contact area between the tube and tube would also be sealed so the air can not escape the tube by any route unless the puncture made it all the way through to the rim side of the inner tube.

Advantages:

1. Much less sealant, less weight/lower moment of inertia.

2. When the bike is parked for long periods of time the sealant cannot drip down to the bottom releasing air through the holes at the top of the tire and drying out in a puddle on the bottom.

3. The sealant isn't exposed to air and takes much longer to dry out.

4. Less leakage through the butyl rubber so the inner tube can be filmy thin, < 0.2 mm and very light.

5. In the event of a really large puncture the tube can be more easily patched simply by washing the sealant off that part of the tube.

Results:

The Slime somehow dried out and of course didn't work. I got 2 flats with a new cross mountain bike tire using Slime.

No flats yet with the glycol wheel using the same tire, tube and roads as the Slime wheel. Glycol doesn't seem to dry out.

Future Actions:

This hack is so easy someone might want to add some data points using different sealants, tires, roads and other conditions.

I was thinking of trying this with double tubed road wheels.


Bret Cahill

[Mr Pounder Esquire]

"Bret Cahill" > wrote in message
...
Instead of putting sealant inside of the tube smear a smaller quantity
inside of the tire and then install the inner tube.

Theory:

When the tire and tube are punctured the venturi effect will force the
sealant near the hole into the hole in the tire and seal the tire much like
a tubless tire. Any channels formed in the contact area between the tube
and tube would also be sealed so the air can not escape the tube by any
route unless the puncture made it all the way through to the rim side of the
inner tube.

Advantages:

1. Much less sealant, less weight/lower moment of inertia.

2. When the bike is parked for long periods of time the sealant cannot drip
down to the bottom releasing air through the holes at the top of the tire
and drying out in a puddle on the bottom.

3. The sealant isn't exposed to air and takes much longer to dry out.

4. Less leakage through the butyl rubber so the inner tube can be filmy
thin, < 0.2 mm and very light.

5. In the event of a really large puncture the tube can be more easily
patched simply by washing the sealant off that part of the tube.

Results:

The Slime somehow dried out and of course didn't work. I got 2 flats with a
new cross mountain bike tire using Slime.

No flats yet with the glycol wheel using the same tire, tube and roads as
the Slime wheel. Glycol doesn't seem to dry out.

Future Actions:

This hack is so easy someone might want to add some data points using
different sealants, tires, roads and other conditions.

I was thinking of trying this with double tubed road wheels.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRxAZLV6vgU

[Bret Cahill]

> Instead of putting sealant inside of the tube smear a smaller quantity
> inside of the tire and then install the inner tube.
>
> Theory:
>
> When the tire and tube are punctured the venturi effect will force the
> sealant near the hole into the hole in the tire and seal the tire much like
> a tubless tire. Any channels formed in the contact area between the tube
> and tube would also be sealed so the air can not escape the tube by any
> route unless the puncture made it all the way through to the rim side of the
> inner tube.
>
> Advantages:
>
> 1. Much less sealant, less weight/lower moment of inertia.
>
> 2. When the bike is parked for long periods of time the sealant cannot drip
> down to the bottom releasing air through the holes at the top of the tire
> and drying out in a puddle on the bottom.
>
> 3. The sealant isn't exposed to air and takes much longer to dry out.
>
> 4. Less leakage through the butyl rubber so the inner tube can be filmy
> thin, < 0.2 mm and very light.
>
> 5. In the event of a really large puncture the tube can be more easily
> patched simply by washing the sealant off that part of the tube.
>
> Results:
>
> The Slime somehow dried out and of course didn't work. I got 2 flats with a
> new cross mountain bike tire using Slime.
>
> No flats yet with the glycol wheel using the same tire, tube and roads as
> the Slime wheel. Glycol doesn't seem to dry out.
>
> Future Actions:
>
> This hack is so easy someone might want to add some data points using
> different sealants, tires, roads and other conditions.
>
> I was thinking of trying this with double tubed road wheels.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRxAZLV6vgU

You'll certainly _feel_ like you're working harder mired in traffic but you can save time and get more work done bicycle commuting around the stalled vehicle traffic.

[Bret Cahill]

Update:

I finally got around to the double tubed road bike, at least the rear wheel..

On the plus side, as far as assembly is concerned, the slippery 1 2 ethanediol makes it much easier to position the 2 valves in the 2 rim holes and to center the tire. Talc does not come anywhere close to the lubricating of the liquid sealant.

On the down side, if you do not center the tire nearly perfectly on the rim it may blow off the rim. Apparently dry friction plays some role in clincher tire mounting.

I'll start off with a few rides with one inner tube blown to shreds which may not mean a whole lot. Eventually I'll replace it with a good inner tube slathered with glycol and give true double tubing a try.

1 2 ethanediol sells for about $900/ton bulk but you only need a few grams if you smear it on the outside of the innertube(s). $20 million could make planet cycle nearly flat free.

If you try this at home make sure pets and small kids don't consume any of the 1 2 ethanediol. Upon inflation the excess is squeezed out of the rim. Wash it into the lawn with excess water.


Bret Cahill


> Instead of putting sealant inside of the tube smear a smaller quantity inside of the tire and then install the inner tube.
>
> Theory:
>
> When the tire and tube are punctured the venturi effect will force the sealant near the hole into the hole in the tire and seal the tire much like a tubless tire. Any channels formed in the contact area between the tube and tube would also be sealed so the air can not escape the tube by any route unless the puncture made it all the way through to the rim side of the inner tube.
>
> Advantages:
>
> 1. Much less sealant, less weight/lower moment of inertia.
>
> 2. When the bike is parked for long periods of time the sealant cannot drip down to the bottom releasing air through the holes at the top of the tire and drying out in a puddle on the bottom.
>
> 3. The sealant isn't exposed to air and takes much longer to dry out.
>
> 4. Less leakage through the butyl rubber so the inner tube can be filmy thin, < 0.2 mm and very light.
>
> 5. In the event of a really large puncture the tube can be more easily patched simply by washing the sealant off that part of the tube.
>
> Results:
>
> The Slime somehow dried out and of course didn't work. I got 2 flats with a new cross mountain bike tire using Slime.
>
> No flats yet with the glycol wheel using the same tire, tube and roads as the Slime wheel. Glycol doesn't seem to dry out.
>
> Future Actions:
>
> This hack is so easy someone might want to add some data points using different sealants, tires, roads and other conditions.
>
> I was thinking of trying this with double tubed road wheels.
>
>
> Bret Cahill

[Alycidon]

On Tuesday, 18 August 2015 06:26:09 UTC+1, Bret Cahill wrote:

>
> If you try this at home make sure pets and small kids don't consume any of the 1 2 ethanediol. Upon inflation the excess is squeezed out of the rim. Wash it into the lawn with excess water.
>

Propane 1,2,3 Triol could do the same and it is edible.