Re: Looking for a cheap road bike

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

> I own a Raleigh M20 which I bought back a few years ago when I was in
> college for neighborhood riding. Now I've gotten into riding on paved
> trails and the mountain bike just doesn't cut it; it feels heavy and
> slow. I'd really like to buy a road bike but they're all really
> expensive. Anyone have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes?
> The cheapest (new) one I've seen is the 2003 Motobecane Mirage listed
> on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about this one?
> Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an
> inexpensive, preferably new, road bike?

Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first one.
Your best bet is to save up a bit more money and find a local dealer who's
known to be really good at matching up the rider to the bike, because the
right bike is going to be one that's going to beg you to ride it, one that
can't stand sitting in the garage, one that makes you feel guilty because
you'd rather be out riding your bike than doing just about anything else.

Conversely, a bike that doesn't quite fit right, or has something that's not
running the way it ought to, is likely to spend its time gathering dust and
become one of those "Well, tried the road bike thing, glad I didn't spend
even more money on it" deals.

Entry-level road bikes at shops have improved in quality and come down quite
a bit in price lately; the '04 TREK 1000, for example, runs about $520. And
aside from fit, a good local dealer is going to maintain a sense of
ownership about the bike, so that if something isn't the way it ought to be,
they're going to do what they can to take care of it.

The most expensive bike you can buy is the one that doesn't get ridden much.
The best "deal" on a bike... well, I've laid out that stuff above!

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

[Rick Onanian]

On 6 Aug 2003 08:06:58 -0700, Jesse > wrote:
> expensive. Anyone have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes? The
> cheapest (new) one I've seen is the 2003 Motobecane Mirage listed
> on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about this one?
> Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an
> inexpensive, preferably new, road bike?

For new bikes, I've seen a Diamondback at Dick's Sporting Goods
(a large chain of sporting goods stores) for around that price.
It appeared to be a worthwhile ride.

> Thanks.
--
Rick Onanian

[Dave Jackson]

In article >,
(Jesse) wrote:

> Hi --
>
> I own a Raleigh M20 which I bought back a few years ago when I was in
> college for neighborhood riding. Now I've gotten into riding on paved
> trails and the mountain bike just doesn't cut it; it feels heavy and
> slow. I'd really like to buy a road bike but they're all really
> expensive. Anyone have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes?
> The cheapest (new) one I've seen is the 2003 Motobecane Mirage listed
> on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about this one?
> Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an
> inexpensive, preferably new, road bike?
>
> Thanks.

It's been a while since I have seen a new road bike with downtube
shifters.

Dave in Minnesota

[Bob M]

On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 15:28:45 GMT, Mike Jacoubowsky >
wrote:

>> I own a Raleigh M20 which I bought back a few years ago when I was in
>> college for neighborhood riding. Now I've gotten into riding on paved
>> trails and the mountain bike just doesn't cut it; it feels heavy and
>> slow. I'd really like to buy a road bike but they're all really
>> expensive. Anyone have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes?
>> The cheapest (new) one I've seen is the 2003 Motobecane Mirage listed
>> on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about this one?
>> Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an
>> inexpensive, preferably new, road bike?
>
> Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first one.
> Your best bet is to save up a bit more money and find a local dealer
> who's
> known to be really good at matching up the rider to the bike, because the
> right bike is going to be one that's going to beg you to ride it, one
> that
> can't stand sitting in the garage, one that makes you feel guilty because
> you'd rather be out riding your bike than doing just about anything else.
>
> Conversely, a bike that doesn't quite fit right, or has something that's
> not
> running the way it ought to, is likely to spend its time gathering dust
> and
> become one of those "Well, tried the road bike thing, glad I didn't spend
> even more money on it" deals.
>
> Entry-level road bikes at shops have improved in quality and come down
> quite
> a bit in price lately; the '04 TREK 1000, for example, runs about $520.
> And
> aside from fit, a good local dealer is going to maintain a sense of
> ownership about the bike, so that if something isn't the way it ought to
> be,
> they're going to do what they can to take care of it.
>
> The most expensive bike you can buy is the one that doesn't get ridden
> much.
> The best "deal" on a bike... well, I've laid out that stuff above!
>
> --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
> http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
>
>
>

Fit is definitely important. I have a Trek that I've had to buy certain
seats and set back seatposts in order to get the correct knee-to-pedal-
spindle distance for me and have had to buy a long stem. This year, when I
ordered a Brooks saddle, I couldn't get the correct knee-to-pedal-spindle
distance even with a set-back seatpost. So, I gave up and got a Lemond.
Even on the Lemond, I have my Brooks pushed back as far as it will go, and
I'm ordering a longer stem (and I've reversed the stem and put it down
about half an inch). Fit is by far the most important aspect on a racing
bike. On a mountain bike, fit doesn't seem to be as important, as I'm
always off the seat/back on the seat, walking, changing body positions. On
a racing bike, I tend to get in one position and stay there, although I do
climb out of the saddle quite a bit.

--
Bob M in CT
Remove 'x.' to reply

[Fabrizio Mazzoleni]

Jesse wrote in message >...
>I'd really like to buy a road bike

Just remember, don't go mid range.

As an example, if you buy a Colnago Master X-
light with Campag Centaur then it will be sitting
unused in the garage in six months time when
you have to upgrade to a Colnago C40 B-Stay.

Same goes for Pinarello, cheap out with a Motello
running Campag Veloce and soon you will be
upgrading to the Prince SL running full Record.

Look, we're talking bikes, this is the cheapest of
all wheeled road sports. You just can't spend big
money on cycling. Three or so new top end frames
a season along with full gear and kit replacement
means you can still stay under $25,000 per year!

One last thing, a 52 cm frame is the sweet spot
for frame appearance, don't let some sales person
talk you into any other size.

[Rick Onanian]

On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 16:14:55 GMT, Bob M > wrote:

>> Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first one.

> Fit is definitely important. I have a Trek that I've had to buy certain

I'll third that motion. I regretted my Giant TCR2 pretty
badly until I was able to make it fit near properly.

Now, with a better fit and pedals that I can actually get
into, the only thing I miss is a triple crank, but the
fit and pedals make it possible for me to survive the
double anyway.

--
Rick Onanian

[Rick Onanian]

On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 20:34:56 GMT, Bob M > wrote:
>> into, the only thing I miss is a triple crank, but the
>
> If you have the square bottom bracket, you can get a 110 BCD crank
> that'll lighten the load. They are hard to find, but not impossible. I

Good point. I might just do that if I find I'm still
unhappy with this bike. Maybe I can find it with longer
crankarms, too, though that might affect my fit badly.
--
Rick Onanian

[Fred]

"Rick Onanian" > wrote in message
...
> On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 16:14:55 GMT, Bob M > wrote:
>
> >> Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first
one.
>
> > Fit is definitely important. I have a Trek that I've had to buy
certain
>
> I'll third that motion. I regretted my Giant TCR2 pretty
> badly until I was able to make it fit near properly.
>
> Now, with a better fit and pedals that I can actually get
> into, the only thing I miss is a triple crank, but the
> fit and pedals make it possible for me to survive the
> double anyway.
>
> --
> Rick Onanian

I certainly am enjoying my TCR2 , - (but you wouldn't call that a cheap
bike , would you, at about a grand, in pounds that is?)
And by the way, there are only very few instances when I wish for a triple
chain ring.

Fred

[Rick Onanian]

On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 21:13:20 +0000 (UTC), Fred
> wrote:
> I certainly am enjoying my TCR2 , - (but you wouldn't call that a cheap
> bike , would you, at about a grand, in pounds that is?)

I got it discounted for $1,000. It's not a cheap bike, but it
is no high-end or even mid-range road racing bike -- it's just
a darn good value. Under 20 pounds [weight], for $1,000.

> And by the way, there are only very few instances when I wish for a
> triple chain ring.

I have to say, this bike does GO when I actually put my legs
into it; I just don't get the opportunity to leisurely climb
at a slow, spinning pace. All my climbs on this bike are
racing climbs [though, I'm sure, not proper racing technique].

> Fred
--
Rick Onanian