Computer not working

[Saint]

Mt LBS is about 12 miles from where I live and last week I took my new bike
in for its 1st service after about 250 miles. They sorted out all the
cables/brake issues due to initial stretching but when I got the bike home I
noticed that the computer had stopped working. It's a CatEye model - not a
wireless one.

I have had a muck about with the sensor on the wheel and receptor unit on
the fork just to make sure they appear lined up but still no joy. Anyone
offer a bit more 'idiot's guide' advice?

Can't get it back to the shop for 2 weeks.

Cheers

Saint

[James Annan]

Saint wrote:
> Mt LBS is about 12 miles from where I live and last week I took my new bike
> in for its 1st service after about 250 miles. They sorted out all the
> cables/brake issues due to initial stretching but when I got the bike home I
> noticed that the computer had stopped working. It's a CatEye model - not a
> wireless one.
>
> I have had a muck about with the sensor on the wheel and receptor unit on
> the fork just to make sure they appear lined up but still no joy. Anyone
> offer a bit more 'idiot's guide' advice?

1. Listen carefully for the click in the reed switch (sensor) as the
magnet passes by. If you can't hear one, then the two parts are not
close enough. Most problems are caused by this IME.

2. Once you have a reliable click, if it's still not working, clean the
contacts between unit and mount (if it's removable). Also check that by
shorting out the contacts by hand you can make the unit think it is moving.

3. If it's still not working but problems 1 and 2 are eliminated, one of
the wires is probably broken and you need a new sensor kit.

James

[Andrew Chadwick]

On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 18:51:37 +0900, James Annan
> wrote:
>
> Saint wrote:
>
> > the computer had stopped working. It's a CatEye model - not a
> > wireless one.
>
> 1. Listen carefully for the click in the reed switch (sensor) as the
> magnet passes by. If you can't hear one, then the two parts are not
> close enough. Most problems are caused by this IME.
>
> 2. Once you have a reliable click, if it's still not working, clean the
> contacts between unit and mount (if it's removable). Also check that by
> shorting out the contacts by hand you can make the unit think it is moving.
>
> 3. If it's still not working but problems 1 and 2 are eliminated, one of
> the wires is probably broken and you need a new sensor kit.

What James said - in addition:

2a. Ensure that the computer itself has firmly clicked into its housing.
Fairly trivial, but my new CatEye takes a bit of welly to fix in place
properly. The return springs on the contacts are rather stiff.

--
Andrew Chadwick
<We're all in this together>

[James Annan]

Chris Malcolm wrote:

>>3. If it's still not working but problems 1 and 2 are eliminated, one of
>>the wires is probably broken and you need a new sensor kit.
>
>
> Unless of course you can fix a broken wire...

There's no simple way of locating the break, and it's likely to be at
the point at which the wire exits the sensor or mount in which case it
is rather awkward to fix.

James

[Saint]

"James Annan" > wrote in message
...
> Chris Malcolm wrote:
>
> >>3. If it's still not working but problems 1 and 2 are eliminated, one of
> >>the wires is probably broken and you need a new sensor kit.
> >
> >
> > Unless of course you can fix a broken wire...
>
> There's no simple way of locating the break, and it's likely to be at
> the point at which the wire exits the sensor or mount in which case it
> is rather awkward to fix.
>
> James

Thanks to all - problem was the handlebar mount and is now fixed.

Much obliged

Saint
>

[Chris Malcolm]

James Annan > writes:

>Chris Malcolm wrote:

>>>3. If it's still not working but problems 1 and 2 are eliminated, one of
>>>the wires is probably broken and you need a new sensor kit.
>>
>>
>> Unless of course you can fix a broken wire...

>There's no simple way of locating the break, and it's likely to be at
>the point at which the wire exits the sensor or mount in which case it
>is rather awkward to fix.

It's very simple if you have a continuity tester or meter, plus a thin
needle to push through the wire. As you say, it's usually the solder
or crimp joint to the mounting. Whether that's awkward to fix depends
on your tools and skills. On long trips I always carry a multitool of
the pliers sort, plus a small gas soldering iron, so that I can do
repairs like that by the roadside. In my experience computer cable
mounting failure is the most common mode of failure of these units.

--
Chris Malcolm +44 (0)131 650 3085 DoD #205
School of Informatics, Edinburgh University, 5 Forrest Hill,
Edinburgh, EH1 2QL, UK. [http://www.dai.ed.ac.uk/homes/cam/ ]