Lefty

[bhubb]

Anybody had any luck installing a cyclometer to a Cannondale Lefty? My
dealer says it can't be done. Any ideas??

[miles todd]

bhubb wrote:
> Anybody had any luck installing a cyclometer to a Cannondale Lefty? My
> dealer says it can't be done. Any ideas??


Try an avocet. The pickup sits right by the dropout.

[Anthony Sloan]

bhubb wrote:
> Anybody had any luck installing a cyclometer to a Cannondale Lefty? My
> dealer says it can't be done. Any ideas??

You dealer is an uncreative soul.

Use a reflector bracket. Those things that clamp the sparkly red things
to the seatpost. Clamp it to the fork leg, then its a simple matter of
zip ties to get the sensor positioned close to the magnet.

A

[[email protected]]

If it sits to far from the spokes like my Chubby does.
Then you can shim it big time till it works.

Fire up MTB 03

[di]

"bhubb" > wrote in message
om...
> Anybody had any luck installing a cyclometer to a Cannondale Lefty? My
> dealer says it can't be done. Any ideas??


Put the magnet on one of the spokes of your disc, it requires one of the
flat magnets that would install between two spokes on a normal wheel, then
install the pickup sensor as normal. I've run this configuration for
almost a year now, no problems.

[B a r r y B u r k e J r .]

On 20 Oct 2003 20:16:26 -0700, (bhubb) wrote:

>Anybody had any luck installing a cyclometer to a Cannondale Lefty? My
>dealer says it can't be done. Any ideas??


#1 - Find a new dealer.

#2 Simply mount the pickup to the fork up near the top of the tire.
Install the magnet near the rim.

I do this on ALL of my bikes as it makes for a much neater
installation than running the cable all the way down the fork leg.
The installation only needs ONE fork leg, so a Lefty is no problem.

Here's just one way to do it, as I did on one of my Bombers:
<http://www.bburke.com/AMB-disc-comp.jpg>

You may need to use a small amount of imagination when installing the
pickup to the fork leg, and possible longer cable ties than are
included in the cyclocomputer box.

Keywords to jog the imagination: foam weatherstripping, silicone or
hot melt glue, epoxy, electrical tape... <G>

Barry

[B a r r y B u r k e J r .]

On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 11:01:04 GMT, B a r r y B u r k e J r .
> wrote:

>On 20 Oct 2003 20:16:26 -0700, (bhubb) wrote:
>
>>Anybody had any luck installing a cyclometer to a Cannondale Lefty? My
>>dealer says it can't be done. Any ideas??
>
>
>#1 - Find a new dealer.

One more thing, sorry to reply to my own post.

For some reason many people beat their heads on the wall installing
computers, as they incorrectly believe that the magnet / pickup needs
to be near the hub. It makes NO difference where the pickup is.

Once around is once around. Computers simply count revolutions.

Have fun,
Barry

[Super Slinky]

B a r r y B u r k e J r . said...

> One more thing, sorry to reply to my own post.
>
> For some reason many people beat their heads on the wall installing
> computers, as they incorrectly believe that the magnet / pickup needs
> to be near the hub. It makes NO difference where the pickup is.
>
> Once around is once around. Computers simply count revolutions.
>
> Have fun,
> Barry

My computer gives very specific directions to mount it near the hub. I
may work further up, but there is a difference. The magnet will fly by
the pickup a lot faster if it is near the rim.

[Anthony Sloan]

Super Slinky wrote:
> B a r r y B u r k e J r . said...
>
>
>>One more thing, sorry to reply to my own post.
>>
>>For some reason many people beat their heads on the wall installing
>>computers, as they incorrectly believe that the magnet / pickup needs
>>to be near the hub. It makes NO difference where the pickup is.
>>
>>Once around is once around. Computers simply count revolutions.
>>
>>Have fun,
>>Barry
>
>
> My computer gives very specific directions to mount it near the hub. I
> may work further up, but there is a difference. The magnet will fly by
> the pickup a lot faster if it is near the rim.

It will be travelling faster, but it will still go around the same
number of times in a given interval. That is all the computer cares about.



A

[di]

> >
> >
> > My computer gives very specific directions to mount it near the hub. I
> > may work further up, but there is a difference. The magnet will fly by
> > the pickup a lot faster if it is near the rim.
>
> It will be travelling faster, but it will still go around the same
> number of times in a given interval. That is all the computer cares about.

But, it may go by the sensor so fast the mechanical switch may not have time
to fully engage before loosing the magnetic field. Maybe not likely, but
possible.

[Jon Bond]

"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." > wrote
in message ...
> On 20 Oct 2003 20:16:26 -0700, (bhubb) wrote:
>
> >Anybody had any luck installing a cyclometer to a Cannondale Lefty? My
> >dealer says it can't be done. Any ideas??
>
>
> #1 - Find a new dealer.
>
> #2 Simply mount the pickup to the fork up near the top of the tire.
> Install the magnet near the rim.
>
> I do this on ALL of my bikes as it makes for a much neater
> installation than running the cable all the way down the fork leg.
> The installation only needs ONE fork leg, so a Lefty is no problem.
>
> Here's just one way to do it, as I did on one of my Bombers:
> <http://www.bburke.com/AMB-disc-comp.jpg>
>
> You may need to use a small amount of imagination when installing the
> pickup to the fork leg, and possible longer cable ties than are
> included in the cyclocomputer box.
>
> Keywords to jog the imagination: foam weatherstripping, silicone or
> hot melt glue, epoxy, electrical tape... <G>
>
> Barry

That would work fantastic... except there's really no reason to do it on a
normal fork, when the speed the magnet is moving by the sensor can cause
problems (and yes, I have personally seen this).

Oh yeah, and one other little thing: The Lefty is an inverted fork.

I've seen it done a few times, what basically happens is you need to rig up
a way to clamp the sensor way down at the "dropout", and then attach the
magnet to the disc brake. Make sure you have clearance, though!

Jon Bond

[B a r r y B u r k e J r .]

On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 18:41:06 GMT, "Jon Bond"
> wrote:

>That would work fantastic... except there's really no reason to do it on a
>normal fork, when the speed the magnet is moving by the sensor can cause
>problems (and yes, I have personally seen this).

Adjust it, or get a better magnet.

The LBS I work at does EVERY installation at the top of the fork, with
zero customer complaints.

One of my personal road bikes has registered max speeds in the high
50's, with a GPS concurring, without the magnet going too fast for the
pickup.

Barry

[Jon Bond]

"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." > wrote
in message ...
> On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 18:41:06 GMT, "Jon Bond"
> > wrote:
>
> >That would work fantastic... except there's really no reason to do it on
a
> >normal fork, when the speed the magnet is moving by the sensor can cause
> >problems (and yes, I have personally seen this).
>
> Adjust it, or get a better magnet.

I don't see the reason to put the sensor up there. You're not saving
weight - you've still got the same length wire. The wires are designed to
be long enough to reach down near the hub, so if you put them up at teh
brake boss, you've got an extra foot of wire you need to deal with. Plus,
many computers come with magnets designed to be placed between two spokes
(such as the cateye enduro 2). This only works when you have the magnet
down near where the spokes cross. I'm not saying it doesn't make sense
putting it up there, but why bother when you can install it the way it was
designed?

> The LBS I work at does EVERY installation at the top of the fork, with
> zero customer complaints.
>
> One of my personal road bikes has registered max speeds in the high
> 50's, with a GPS concurring, without the magnet going too fast for the
> pickup.

And I've seen one that had problems over 20mph no matter how we adjusted it
in the shop. Yeah, maybe the magnet or computer wasn't great, but why
replace either one when they'd work just fine when installed as they should
be (and it did work when it was down by the hub just fine)?

> Barry

And I reiterate - you can't install a sensor on a lefty fork like that.
Besides the fact that they don'ot have brake bosses, even just installing
them high doesn't work, because they're inverted. Why ignore the main point
of the argument?

Jon Bond

[Jon Bond]

"Jon Bond" > wrote in message
...
>
> "B a r r y B u r k e J r ." >
wrote
> in message ...
> > On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 18:41:06 GMT, "Jon Bond"
> > > wrote:
> >
> > >That would work fantastic... except there's really no reason to do it
on
> a
> > >normal fork, when the speed the magnet is moving by the sensor can
cause
> > >problems (and yes, I have personally seen this).
> >
> > Adjust it, or get a better magnet.
>
> I don't see the reason to put the sensor up there. You're not saving
> weight - you've still got the same length wire. The wires are designed to
> be long enough to reach down near the hub, so if you put them up at teh
> brake boss, you've got an extra foot of wire you need to deal with. Plus,
> many computers come with magnets designed to be placed between two spokes
> (such as the cateye enduro 2). This only works when you have the magnet
> down near where the spokes cross. I'm not saying it doesn't make sense
> putting it up there, but why bother when you can install it the way it was
> designed?
>
> > The LBS I work at does EVERY installation at the top of the fork, with
> > zero customer complaints.
> >
> > One of my personal road bikes has registered max speeds in the high
> > 50's, with a GPS concurring, without the magnet going too fast for the
> > pickup.
>
> And I've seen one that had problems over 20mph no matter how we adjusted
it
> in the shop. Yeah, maybe the magnet or computer wasn't great, but why
> replace either one when they'd work just fine when installed as they
should
> be (and it did work when it was down by the hub just fine)?
>
> > Barry
>
> And I reiterate - you can't install a sensor on a lefty fork like that.
> Besides the fact that they don'ot have brake bosses, even just installing
> them high doesn't work, because they're inverted. Why ignore the main
point
> of the argument?
>
> Jon Bond

And by the way:

/3

That might be helpful.

Jon Bond

[Charles Beristain]

I have three leftys.. all with computers... glue the magnet on the
disc brake rotor. I have some flat plastic magnets that work when
there is enough clearance so the magnet doesn't hit the lefty .. but I
also have some little round magnets that i just glue between rotor
"webs" .. and then glue a plastic magnet behind it to make sure it
doesn't fall off. These do NOT come off even with high heat ( like
riding down mt. snow or killington where the rotors turn blue).

I did have problems with a vetta wireless.. signal not strong enough
when it was mounted down at the rotor... converted to a "wired" vetta
and all is well.

charlie



On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 05:37:33 -0500, "di" > wrote:

>
>
>"bhubb" > wrote in message
om...
>> Anybody had any luck installing a cyclometer to a Cannondale Lefty? My
>> dealer says it can't be done. Any ideas??
>
>
>Put the magnet on one of the spokes of your disc, it requires one of the
>flat magnets that would install between two spokes on a normal wheel, then
>install the pickup sensor as normal. I've run this configuration for
>almost a year now, no problems.
>

[(Pete Cresswell)]

RE/
>Anybody had any luck installing a cyclometer to a Cannondale Lefty? My
>dealer says it can't be done. Any ideas??

When I was at the local Performance shop to get a replacement mount for my
CatEye, I noticed that they also sold mounts with extra-long wires - so the
sensor could be mounted on the rear wheel. About fifteen bucks...
--
PeteCresswell

[di]

"Jon Bond" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Jon Bond" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > "B a r r y B u r k e J r ." >
> wrote
> > in message ...
> > > On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 18:41:06 GMT, "Jon Bond"
> > > > wrote:
> > >
> > > >That would work fantastic... except there's really no reason to do
it
> on
> > a
> > > >normal fork, when the speed the magnet is moving by the sensor can
> cause
> > > >problems (and yes, I have personally seen this).
> > >
> > > Adjust it, or get a better magnet.
> >
> > I don't see the reason to put the sensor up there. You're not saving
> > weight - you've still got the same length wire. The wires are designed
to
> > be long enough to reach down near the hub, so if you put them up at teh
> > brake boss, you've got an extra foot of wire you need to deal with.
Plus,
> > many computers come with magnets designed to be placed between two
spokes
> > (such as the cateye enduro 2). This only works when you have the magnet
> > down near where the spokes cross. I'm not saying it doesn't make sense
> > putting it up there, but why bother when you can install it the way it
was
> > designed?
> >
> > > The LBS I work at does EVERY installation at the top of the fork, with
> > > zero customer complaints.
> > >
> > > One of my personal road bikes has registered max speeds in the high
> > > 50's, with a GPS concurring, without the magnet going too fast for the
> > > pickup.
> >
> > And I've seen one that had problems over 20mph no matter how we adjusted
> it
> > in the shop. Yeah, maybe the magnet or computer wasn't great, but why
> > replace either one when they'd work just fine when installed as they
> should
> > be (and it did work when it was down by the hub just fine)?
> >
> > > Barry
> >
> > And I reiterate - you can't install a sensor on a lefty fork like that.
> > Besides the fact that they don'ot have brake bosses, even just
installing
> > them high doesn't work, because they're inverted. Why ignore the main
> point
> > of the argument?
> >
> > Jon Bond
>
> And by the way:
>
>
/3
>
> That might be helpful.
>
> Jon Bond


That's exactly how mine is installed, only difference it my computer is a
Cateye, it works perfectly.

[B a r r y B u r k e J r .]

On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 21:58:54 GMT, "Jon Bond"
> wrote:


>> Adjust it, or get a better magnet.
>
>I don't see the reason to put the sensor up there. You're not saving
>weight - you've still got the same length wire.

Absolutely true.

> The wires are designed to
>be long enough to reach down near the hub, so if you put them up at teh
>brake boss, you've got an extra foot of wire you need to deal with.

The wire is wound around a cable housing or an inch or so of fork leg,
like a fishing pole decorative winding.

>Plus,
>many computers come with magnets designed to be placed between two spokes
>(such as the cateye enduro 2).

Better magnets are $2 - retail.

> I'm not saying it doesn't make sense
>putting it up there, but why bother when you can install it the way it was
>designed?

It looks 100% better, and there's much less chance of the loose wire
snagging on something along the trail.

>And I've seen one that had problems over 20mph no matter how we adjusted it
>in the shop. Yeah, maybe the magnet or computer wasn't great, but why
>replace either one when they'd work just fine when installed as they should
>be (and it did work when it was down by the hub just fine)?

Because it's _fugly_ with all those extra ty wraps and that fragile
little wire reaching all the way down to the hub.

Not to mention what a new sensor costs when yours is left hanging in
the prickers along the trail at the West Hartford Res. <G>

Barry

[Jon Bond]

"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." > wrote
in message ...
> On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 21:58:54 GMT, "Jon Bond"
> > wrote:
>
>
> >> Adjust it, or get a better magnet.
> >
> >I don't see the reason to put the sensor up there. You're not saving
> >weight - you've still got the same length wire.
>
> Absolutely true.
>
> > The wires are designed to
> >be long enough to reach down near the hub, so if you put them up at teh
> >brake boss, you've got an extra foot of wire you need to deal with.
>
> The wire is wound around a cable housing or an inch or so of fork leg,
> like a fishing pole decorative winding.

> >Plus,
> >many computers come with magnets designed to be placed between two spokes
> >(such as the cateye enduro 2).
>
> Better magnets are $2 - retail.

I'm a college student - $2 is a couple cheap beers ;)

> > I'm not saying it doesn't make sense
> >putting it up there, but why bother when you can install it the way it
was
> >designed?
>
> It looks 100% better, and there's much less chance of the loose wire
> snagging on something along the trail.

I don't know about that - The only "loose" section of wire is where you stop
wrapping it around the brake cable (or line) and leave a bit of slack for
travel, a problem you'd still have.

> >And I've seen one that had problems over 20mph no matter how we adjusted
it
> >in the shop. Yeah, maybe the magnet or computer wasn't great, but why
> >replace either one when they'd work just fine when installed as they
should
> >be (and it did work when it was down by the hub just fine)?
>
> Because it's _fugly_ with all those extra ty wraps and that fragile
> little wire reaching all the way down to the hub.

Which is why smart people use ones with heavy wires like the Enduro 2, or if
they're really worried, wireless. Plus, you're going to have fugly zip ties
anyway, just in a different place. And you have to leave that ugly,
unfinished looking brake boss in, instead of taking it out and putting in a
nice, clean plug.

> Not to mention what a new sensor costs when yours is left hanging in
> the prickers along the trail at the West Hartford Res. <G>

Not many prickers there, at least not last year - just on the one nasty
rutted fireroad climb and a few places under the powerlines. Cover is too
thick for much undergrowth in most places. Also, you really don't want to
be using one there, its not very encouraging seeing 6mph as your average!
(fastest time I've ever heard of for the "loop" was 55 minutes - and its a 9
mile loop.)

> Barry

I'm not saying your method is necessarily worse, I'm just saying its not
really any better!

Jon

[Phil, Squid-in-Training]

> But, it may go by the sensor so fast the mechanical switch may not have
time
> to fully engage before loosing the magnetic field. Maybe not likely,
but
> possible.

I'm pretty sure the pickup is electric, not mechanical. If you hear clicky
noises inside your pickup, then it's either mechanical or broken.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

[Jon Bond]

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" > wrote in message
...
> > But, it may go by the sensor so fast the mechanical switch may not have
> time
> > to fully engage before loosing the magnetic field. Maybe not likely,
> but
> > possible.
>
> I'm pretty sure the pickup is electric, not mechanical. If you hear
clicky
> noises inside your pickup, then it's either mechanical or broken.
>
> --
> Phil, Squid-in-Training

Listen closely. The one on my cateye enduro 2 makes a very very quiet click
when the sensor goes by - and yes, I'm pretty sure the magnet and sensor
aren't hitting!

If it is mechanical, I'm not 100% sure why - you think they'd just use the
electrical field. Might help them avoid interference from HRMs and the
like, though...

Jon Bond

[Shaun Rimmer]

"di" > wrote in message
news:Cvalb.6611$B_2.6270@okepread02...
>
>
> > >
> > >
> > > My computer gives very specific directions to mount it near the hub. I
> > > may work further up, but there is a difference. The magnet will fly by
> > > the pickup a lot faster if it is near the rim.
> >
> > It will be travelling faster, but it will still go around the same
> > number of times in a given interval. That is all the computer cares
about.
>
> But, it may go by the sensor so fast the mechanical switch may not have
time
> to fully engage before loosing the magnetic field. Maybe not likely,
but
> possible.

Should that happen, fit a stronger magnet. I fit a couple small, round
shaped 'rare earth' (neodymium (sp?)) ones out of an old small headphone
set - just wrapped a strip of I/tube rubber around them and the spokes, and
zip-tied each end or the rolled rubber 'tube'.

To solve any problem like this fitting one, you need to first look at the
problem, then apply generous doses of imagination and common sense. It's
easy to find the materials.


Shaun aRe

[Shaun Rimmer]

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" > wrote in message
...
> > But, it may go by the sensor so fast the mechanical switch may not have
> time
> > to fully engage before loosing the magnetic field. Maybe not likely,
> but
> > possible.
>
> I'm pretty sure the pickup is electric, not mechanical. If you hear
clicky
> noises inside your pickup, then it's either mechanical or broken.

They are (all I've seen) electro mechanical devices known as 'reed
switches' - a glass tube inside which is one (or 2 opposite each other,
connected together) static contact 'rod', and a flexible, springy one that
is either a magnet itself, or made of a ferric material. I haven't come
across one in this application that uses a hall effect or similar.

Shaun aRe

[Shaun Rimmer]

"Jon Bond" > wrote in message
...

> If it is mechanical, I'm not 100% sure why - you think they'd just use the
> electrical field.

Too much physical bulk for signal-out level using a coil, coils are a lot
more costly to manufacture, and the signal would be somewhat sinusoidal,
hence more difficult to read accurately by a processor without being
pre-processed. Hall effect would need a little more in the way of circuitry
and cost more also. Reed switches are cheap, reliable, and give a direct
on-off output signal of whatever level is desired (feed it 3 volts, that's
the return signal level), within the current/voltage parameters the reed
switch can handle (which is much more than could be required of it for these
jobs).

> Might help them avoid interference from HRMs and the
> like, though...

I really do not believe that is the issue.


Shaun aRe

[Anthony Sloan]

Shaun Rimmer wrote:
> "Jon Bond" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>
>>If it is mechanical, I'm not 100% sure why - you think they'd just use the
>>electrical field.
>
>
> Too much physical bulk for signal-out level using a coil, coils are a lot
> more costly to manufacture, and the signal would be somewhat sinusoidal,
> hence more difficult to read accurately by a processor without being
> pre-processed. Hall effect would need a little more in the way of circuitry
> and cost more also. Reed switches are cheap, reliable, and give a direct
> on-off output signal of whatever level is desired (feed it 3 volts, that's
> the return signal level), within the current/voltage parameters the reed
> switch can handle (which is much more than could be required of it for these
> jobs).


I dunno about any of the above kefuffle. But I do know that most cycle
computer sensors have a tiny magnet inside that moves when the wheel
magnet goes by, thus completing a circuit and sending one unit of
information back to the handlebars.

Sysiphean torture, sounds like.

A

[Michael Dart]

"Anthony Sloan" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Shaun Rimmer wrote:
> > "Jon Bond" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >
> >
> >>If it is mechanical, I'm not 100% sure why - you think they'd just use
the
> >>electrical field.
> >
> >
> > Too much physical bulk for signal-out level using a coil, coils are a
lot
> > more costly to manufacture, and the signal would be somewhat sinusoidal,
> > hence more difficult to read accurately by a processor without being
> > pre-processed. Hall effect would need a little more in the way of
circuitry
> > and cost more also. Reed switches are cheap, reliable, and give a direct
> > on-off output signal of whatever level is desired (feed it 3 volts,
that's
> > the return signal level), within the current/voltage parameters the reed
> > switch can handle (which is much more than could be required of it for
these
> > jobs).
>
>
> I dunno about any of the above kefuffle. But I do know that most cycle
> computer sensors have a tiny magnet inside that moves when the wheel
> magnet goes by, thus completing a circuit and sending one unit of
> information back to the handlebars.
>
> Sysiphean torture, sounds like.
>

That "kefuffle" made perfect sense to me. A reed switch is a "tiny magnet"
or magnetic strip of metal encased in a glass tube. We use them for
position sensors. You can also find them in security systems as window and
door open/close sensors.

Mike

[Anthony Sloan]

Michael Dart wrote:

>
> That "kefuffle" made perfect sense to me.
>
> Mike
>
>

Bully for you. The cookie can be claimed at our corporate offices. ;*)

A

[Shaun Rimmer]

"Anthony Sloan" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Shaun Rimmer wrote:
> > "Jon Bond" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >
> >
> >>If it is mechanical, I'm not 100% sure why - you think they'd just use
the
> >>electrical field.
> >
> >
> > Too much physical bulk for signal-out level using a coil, coils are a
lot
> > more costly to manufacture, and the signal would be somewhat sinusoidal,
> > hence more difficult to read accurately by a processor without being
> > pre-processed. Hall effect would need a little more in the way of
circuitry
> > and cost more also. Reed switches are cheap, reliable, and give a direct
> > on-off output signal of whatever level is desired (feed it 3 volts,
that's
> > the return signal level), within the current/voltage parameters the reed
> > switch can handle (which is much more than could be required of it for
these
> > jobs).
>
>
> I dunno about any of the above kefuffle.

It ain't 'kefuffle', it's correct - thos sorta thing is part of my job.

> But I do know that most cycle
> computer sensors have a tiny magnet inside that moves when the wheel
> magnet goes by,

Magnetic reed switch - some have magnets and one contact (only work with
magnet facing one way), some have magnets and two contacts (work with magnet
either way around), yet others just ferrous metal (work with magnet either
way around)

> thus completing a circuit and sending one unit of
> information back to the handlebars.
>
> Sysiphean torture, sounds like.

Sounds like a reed switch to me.



Shaun aRe

[Anthony Sloan]

Shaun Rimmer wrote:

>
> It ain't 'kefuffle', it's correct - thos sorta thing is part of my job.
>

> Shaun aRe
>
>
C'mon, admit it. You were waggling around your knowledge in order to
show off.

;*)

I knew what you were getting at but, and I mean this kindly, it was a
trifle obtuse. Best thing to do for the uninformed public (me) is to
describe the thing in plain english, then drop in the lingo. If it's a
tiny magnet, that's a good enough description for a usenet group
concerning itself with mountain biking.

Respects,

A

[Michael Dart]

"Anthony Sloan" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Michael Dart wrote:
>
> >
> > That "kefuffle" made perfect sense to me.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
>
> Bully for you. The cookie can be claimed at our corporate offices. ;*)
>
> A
>

White chocolate chip and Macadamia nut?!

Mike - mmmmmm...

[Anthony Sloan]

Shaun Rimmer wrote:

> Yeah, you'd think, but, 'bollox'! Someone woulda jumped up and said 'You
> don't know what you're on about you clueless idiot', before commencing to
> fill in the details where I'd left them out. I was just being pro-active
> (does that make 3 birds/ 1stone? Heheheheh......).
>
>
> Shaun aRe
>
>

I hear you there. 'Tis the double edged sword of Usenet, it is.

Shame about all them birds, good for the stones though.

A

[Shaun Rimmer]

"Anthony Sloan" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Shaun Rimmer wrote:
>
> >
> > It ain't 'kefuffle', it's correct - thos sorta thing is part of my job.
> >
>
> > Shaun aRe
> >
> >
> C'mon, admit it. You were waggling around your knowledge in order to
> show off.
>
> ;*)

AND to be helpful (killin' 2 birds with 1 stone, heheheheheh....).

> I knew what you were getting at but, and I mean this kindly, it was a
> trifle obtuse. Best thing to do for the uninformed public (me) is to
> describe the thing in plain english, then drop in the lingo. If it's a
> tiny magnet, that's a good enough description for a usenet group
> concerning itself with mountain biking.

Yeah, you'd think, but, 'bollox'! Someone woulda jumped up and said 'You
don't know what you're on about you clueless idiot', before commencing to
fill in the details where I'd left them out. I was just being pro-active
(does that make 3 birds/ 1stone? Heheheheh......).


Shaun aRe

[Shaun Rimmer]

"Anthony Sloan" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Shaun Rimmer wrote:
>
> > Yeah, you'd think, but, 'bollox'! Someone woulda jumped up and said 'You
> > don't know what you're on about you clueless idiot', before commencing
to
> > fill in the details where I'd left them out. I was just being pro-active
> > (does that make 3 birds/ 1stone? Heheheheh......).
> >
> >
> > Shaun aRe
> >
> >
>
> I hear you there. 'Tis the double edged sword of Usenet, it is.

I am impervious to Usenet 'weapons'. ',;~}~

> Shame about all them birds, good for the stones though.

They make for good pie.

Shaun aRe - If you can't blind 'em with science, poke their beady eyes out.