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john_childs
December 15th 03, 05:40 AM
I have been making myself a handlebar extension for my new Coker. I
wanted something modular so I could adjust things to make it fit right
and also add and change things for different riding. I got a lot of
inspiration from the handlebar setup in 'Will's gallery'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albun56).

Pictures of my JC Coker Handle are in my 'Miscellaneous Stuff gallery'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/john_childs_misc)

The handlebar is mounted to the frame using part of an adjustable stoker
stem for a tandem bicycle. I got the stoker stem off eBay for around
$30, but you can also get them from a place like 'aebike'
(http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=30&Category=135) for about
$48.

The boom is a 400 mm x 28.6 mm 'Rockwerks seatpost'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=514). I cut the seat
guts off with a hacksaw.

The stem is a MTB stem with about a 25 degree rise.

I got some used MTB bar ends and mounted them on a straight piece of
22.2 mm handlebar with a 25.4 mm shim. The Coda bar ends have a weird
bend in them that makes them more comfortable than regular bar ends for
this riding position. I had to cut the bar ends down to get them to fit
the way I wanted.

The 400 mm long boom was not quite long enough so I grafted on an
extension. The extension is a piece of 25.4 mm chromoly seatpost that I
had laying around. It is held in place using a big double bolt BMX
clamp similar to the Primo Viking. I used an XS clamp but you can't get
those any more. The clamp is designed to fit a 28.6 mm (1 1/8") seat
tube and 25.5 mm (1") seat post. Half the clamp grips the seat tube and
half the clamp grips the seat post.

On the extension I have mounted my computer and a bell. The computer is
mounted on a stubby extension designed so you can mount a computer on
aero bars. A bike shop that knows about bikes for triathletes would
know about these little computer mounts.

At the end of the extension I have a "T" shaped bar to protect the
computer in the event that the unicycle hits the ground after a UPD. It
is a
'Minoura' (http://www.minoura.jp/index-et.html) 'Space Grip'
(http://www.minoura.jp/acc-e.html). 'aebike'
(http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=30&SKU=HB2009) has them. I
haven't crashed with it yet so I don't know how it will hold up after a
UPD. It is part plastic so it may not survive. I have some ideas for a
different way to protect the computer without using the Space Grip as a
crash bumper. I'll have to play around and see what works. The JC
Coker Handle is still in the Beta stage and this is one of the reasons
why.

The boom required some shims to get it to fit in the stoker stem holder.
The stoker stem was designed to fit something close to 30 mm and the
boom is only 28.6 mm. I consumed several cans of Coca-Cola and used the
empty cans as shim material. I think it is possible to get a 28.6 mm to
29.8 mm shim. I'll give that shim a try when I can get it.

The stoker stem is designed to fit a 29.8 mm seat post. My frame is
only about 28.6mm in diameter where the stoker stem is mounted so this
area also required the use of some shimming material. Fortunately the
tandem folks make a 28.6 mm to 29.8 mm shim for mounting a stoker stem
on smaller seat posts. Now I need to get two of those fancy tandem
stoker stem shims.

Overall, I like the JC Coker Handle. It's a modular setup which allows
me to move the handlebar pieces to get it to fit right. I can also add
new things like maybe an aero bar instead of the bar ends. Lots of
possibilities. Most of the JC Coker Handle is aluminum which keeps it
fairly light.

I need to figure out a better way to protect the computer without using
the Minoura Space Grip as a bumper, and I'd also like to mount a water
bottle somewhere. I could mount it out front like 'Nathan'
(http://community.webshots.com/album/75146993spvgeL) has, or I could
figure out a way to mount a single water bottle under my seat. The JC
Coker Handle revision Beta 3 will be out once I get these details
figured out.


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doctor
December 15th 03, 06:35 AM
Your one is especially good on the point that having adjustable joints
to adjust and can be personalize the need for any individuals.
Also beta 2 will be attractive if you find a decent place to attache
water bottle. Waiting for revision Beta 3....


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jason
December 15th 03, 07:05 AM
Sweet. That's a hoopy bit of engineering John! I especially like how you
used commonly available pieces and parts to construct it. It really
looks great.


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john_childs
December 15th 03, 09:16 AM
jason wrote:
> *Sweet. That's a hoopy bit of engineering John! I especially like how
> you used commonly available pieces and parts to construct it. It
> really looks great. *

One of my design goals is to use commonly available parts with a minimum
of machining. So far the only machining I've needed is just a hacksaw
and a file.

It would be nice to have a longer boom. The longest 28.6 mm seatpost
that you can get are about 400 mm and that's just a bit short. A 600 mm
or 700 mm long boom would be better. I may look in to getting a boom
custom machined even though that would violate one of my design goals.
With a custom made boom I could make it longer and have the end that
fits in the stoker stem be about 30 mm in diameter so I wouldn't have to
use a shim. The machining would be simple, just turning an aluminum
tube on a lathe. But I'd have to find a machinist to do it and the end
result would be more expensive than buying a Rockwerks seatpost and a
shim.

The Coke can shims that hold the boom in the stoker stem are also
problematic. They don't hold the boom really tight. It doesn't slip
while riding, but it will twist when it hits the ground after a UPD.
The Coke can shims get chewed up when the boom twists like that after a
UPD. It's not ideal, but not a critical problem either. Hopefully the
tandem stem shims will fix that problem.

So I don't know whether to go the custom machining route for the boom or
add a better shim. I'll probably go the shim route. But I'm also
curious about how much it would be to have a machinist make a custom
boom.

One other problem I've noticed with the JC Coker Handle is that it is
harder to fit the Coker in the back of my Subaru Impreza wagon now. It
still fits just fine, but it's harder to get it in and out of the car.


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gbarnes
December 15th 03, 12:40 PM
john_childs wrote:
> *
> It would be nice to have a longer boom. The longest 28.6 mm seatpost
> that you can get are about 400 mm and that's just a bit short. A 600
> mm or 700 mm long boom would be better. I may look in to getting a
> boom custom machined even though that would violate one of my design
> goals. With a custom made boom I could make it longer and have the
> end that fits in the stoker stem be about 30 mm in diameter so I
> wouldn't have to use a shim. The machining would be simple, just
> turning an aluminum tube on a lathe. But I'd have to find a machinist
> to do it and the end result would be more expensive than buying a
> Rockwerks seatpost and a shim.
> *


Nice pictures John,

Instead of buying a longer seatpost, you could just order 1.125"
aluminum tubing in any length you want. Shapiro supply has a good
selection and no minimum order. Ideally you could find a local source
and not pay shipping, but failing that:

http://www.shapirosupply.com/catalog/catalog1.html


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U-Turn
December 15th 03, 01:25 PM
Nice work, John! I'm just a step behind you on this one :mad:

For crash protection, you might try using a cane tip on the end of the
boom and get rid of the space grip. That has worked for me so far.


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cyberbellum
December 15th 03, 02:40 PM
john_childs wrote:
> *
> The Coke can shims that hold the boom in the stoker stem are also
> problematic.
> *

Coke can aluminum is very squishy stuff. The formula was created to
allow rapid forming of sheet into cans.

It's really an amazing formula when you think of it - taking a 3" disk
of aluminum sheet and reliably stretching it into the shape of a coke
can in a fraction of a second without tearing. However, it's not really
a structural material. Ditto for aluminum foil, for the same reasons.

on edit: OOPs! Almost forgot... Very nice design.


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chirokid
December 15th 03, 04:59 PM
cyberbellum wrote:
> *Very nice design. *


I agree, very nice John. --chirokid--


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harper
December 15th 03, 05:02 PM
Do you wonder any more why we call him "JC"?

Excellent, clean design. Simple and elegant and produced without exotic
tools or materials. And done by the guy who can ride it on water.


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john_childs
December 15th 03, 08:29 PM
U-Turn wrote:
> *Nice work, John! I'm just a step behind you on this one :mad:
>
> For crash protection, you might try using a cane tip on the end of the
> boom and get rid of the space grip. That has worked for me so far. *

I'm curious to see what you come up with for a handle system when you
get it finished.

I got my initial idea from 'Will's gallery'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albun56). Then I saw an adjustable
stoker stem on a tandem and the whole idea came together right there.
It has been several months since that initial idea to use a stoker stem.
Now I finally have a working version (I'm a bit lazy and slow about
these things).

One problem with my design is that it may not work well with the Hunter
Coker frames because there is not as much neck on the frame to mount the
stoker stem. It may work on a Hunter frame or it may not. It would
depend on how much room there is on the neck or on the exposed seat post
to mount the stoker stem. And then there is also the possible issue of
the angle that the stoker stem puts the boom at. Would the angle be too
steep to clear the front of the seat? I'm going to be putting a Magura
brake lever below my seat (just like a muni setup) so I need clearance
area under my seat for the brake lever.

I initially used a rubber tip similar to a cane tip on the end of the
boom but my boom isn't long enough to keep the computer from contacting
the ground during a UPD with that design. I would need a longer boom
for that to work. I have found that the further out on the boom that I
put the computer the easier it is to read the computer while riding. So
I have the computer out as far on the boom as possible (as far as the
computer cable will allow). I may need to go to a wireless computer to
put it any further out on the boom.


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john_childs
December 15th 03, 08:44 PM
gbarnes wrote:
> *
>
> Nice pictures John,
>
> Instead of buying a longer seatpost, you could just order 1.125"
> aluminum tubing in any length you want. Shapiro supply has a good
> selection and no minimum order. Ideally you could find a local source
> and not pay shipping, but failing that:
>
> http://www.shapirosupply.com/catalog/catalog1.html *

Cool! What kind of finish is there on the aluminum tubing like that? I
really like the machined finish on my seatpost boom, but I could live
without that machined finish.

I believe that the seat post I have is 6000 series aluminum. Don't know
for sure. The wall thickness is around 3/32" (0.09375") (about 2.4 mm).
The closest in the stock tubing they have has a wall thickness of
0.125". Probably thicker than I need, but better to be too strong than
too weak. UPDs can be violent events for a Coker unicycle and I want
the boom to survive my crashes.


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gbarnes
December 15th 03, 08:52 PM
The finish is just "as extruded", not machined. It's easily polished
with Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish (check Napa). An angle die
grinder with a buffing wheel can have really nice effects.


I think you could get a larger OD tube machined down pretty reasonably
too, especially if you bring in your pre cut tube and say "Here, face
both ends, then turn down XX inches to XX diameter". I would think less
than $10 for machining. Shop rates are usually around $40 an hour fof
stuff like this.


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john_childs
December 15th 03, 08:54 PM
cyberbellum wrote:
> *
> Coke can aluminum is very squishy stuff. The formula was created to
> allow rapid forming of sheet into cans.
> *

Yes. Soda cans and beer cans are squishy stuff. Not the best shim
material. I can get some proper shim stock but it is much more
expensive than soda cans.

I'm going to look into getting the shims that are designed specifically
for the stoker stems. They seem to be, very conveniently, just the
right size for what I need.

Now that the design has proven itself I'll splurge on the shims.


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john_childs
December 15th 03, 09:43 PM
gbarnes wrote:
> *The finish is just "as extruded", not machined. It's easily polished
> with Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish (check Napa). An angle die
> grinder with a buffing wheel can have really nice effects.
>
> I think you could get a larger OD tube machined down pretty reasonably
> too, especially if you bring in your pre cut tube and say "Here, face
> both ends, then turn down XX inches to XX diameter". I would think
> around $10 for machining. Shop rates are usually around $40 an hour
> for stuff like this, if they want more than that, go somewhere else. *


That looks good. The polished aluminum look should do well. I'll look
into the round aluminum tubing and see what I can come up with for
revision Beta 3 of my handle.

Beta testing can be fun. :)


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cyberbellum
December 16th 03, 01:24 AM
john_childs wrote:
> *
> Now that the design has proven itself I'll splurge on the shims. *

Electric glue works pretty well, too.


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john_childs
December 16th 03, 01:54 AM
cyberbellum wrote:
> *
> Electric glue works pretty well, too. *

What is electric glue? A Google search turns up everything from
software to glue guns.


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supertones
December 16th 03, 02:08 AM
Wow I wish I knew what you guys were talking about, nice pictures of
shinny objects though.

Hey whats the advantage of having a handlebar on a coker, and whats the
computer do?

I've thought of putting a water bottle on my uni, or a horn or
something. I also want to get a steering wheel, not to attach it, but to
hold it and look silly, I gotta start doing stuff while unicycling,
thats part of the beaty of not riding a b*ke : )

Andrew


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cyberbellum
December 16th 03, 03:38 AM
john_childs wrote:
> *
> What is electric glue? A Google search turns up everything from
> software to glue guns. *

It's Navy slang for arc welding. Sorry, thought it would be obvious.


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UNI GUY
December 16th 03, 05:03 AM
Now that's Beautiful !!!!
inspiration to start on my onw very soon


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john_childs
December 16th 03, 05:37 AM
cyberbellum wrote:
> *It's Navy slang for arc welding. Sorry, thought it would be obvious.
> *

You should have put a smiley after your comment about the electric glue.
:)


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cyberbellum
December 16th 03, 05:48 AM
john_childs wrote:
> *
> You should have put a smiley after your comment about the electric
> glue. :) *

What, and ruin my dry New England wit? :D


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john_childs
December 16th 03, 05:52 AM
supertones wrote:
> *Hey whats the advantage of having a handlebar on a coker, and whats
> the computer do? *

The extended handlebar lets you lean on the handles and support some of
your weight with your arms instead of having all of your weight on the
saddle. That helps to relieve crotch numbness. The handlebar setup is
not necessary for shorter rides, but for longer rides it is a very nice
thing to have.

It is also helpful to have one hand on either the handle out on the boom
or the handle right on the front of the seat when pedaling at high RPMs.
Holding one of the handles helps to keep both you and the unicycle
steady as you are pedaling fast.

The computer is a regular cycle computer that measures your current
speed, trip distance, average speed, max speed, total distance, ride
time and other data. A magnet on the spokes triggers a sensor mounted
on the fork. The computer reads the sensor and can compute how fast you
are going and how far you have gone by counting how many times the wheel
rolls around and keeping track of how long each wheel revolution takes.


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nathan
December 16th 03, 06:06 AM
Very nice John - I'd love to try it out someday. If you need custom
shims, I recommend 'Rick Hunter' (http://www.huntercycles.com) . He can
make then any size, any how.

---Nathan


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shadowuni
December 16th 03, 07:12 AM
instead of an air seat, i spent about $20 and got a large velo gel pad,
and fit it around the seat. i like the handle attatchment and the
computer. excuse my asking, but what are the handles for? why wouldnt
you just wave to people or cross them behind your back? for the
record, i like to ride my coker in the snow!!! i can also do some one
foot, seat out riding and can seat out hop it up stairs. nobody cares.
nice design tho.


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john_childs
December 16th 03, 07:47 AM
shadowuni wrote:
> *instead of an air seat, i spent about $20 and got a large velo gel
> pad, and fit it around the seat. i like the handle attatchment and
> the computer. excuse my asking, but what are the handles for? why
> wouldnt you just wave to people or cross them behind your back? for
> the record, i like to ride my coker in the snow!!! i can also do some
> one foot, seat out riding and can seat out hop it up stairs. nobody
> cares. nice design tho. *

There is more than one way to do handlebars for a Coker. Lars Clausen
did a cross-country unicycle ride and he had a unique handlebar setup
that went behind him and then up to his sides. You can see pictures of
his setup at 'www.onewheel.org' (http://www.onewheel.org/) and on his
'photo archive' (http://www.onewheel.org/docs/phgal/arch.htm) page.

Also take a look at 'www.unitours.org' (http://www.unitours.org/) and
the photos there. For example, the photos of the 'Norwegian Unicycle
Tour' (http://www.unitours.org/tours/NUT/Update.htm). Most everyone on
the tours are using some sort of handlebar setup. Most of them are
using the handlebar setup designed by Paul Wyganowski, but others are
using homebrew designs.

Some sort of handlebar setup for long rides "is a good thing"(tm).


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supertones
December 17th 03, 03:06 AM
to take weight off your seat, I only ride a little and it gets to me
now.

Ok, so on your coker whats the longest distance, and fastest you've ever
ridden???

Andrew


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john_childs
December 17th 03, 04:40 AM
supertones wrote:
> *Ok, so on your coker whats the longest distance, and fastest you've
> ever ridden???
> *

My rides on my new Coker have just been 10, 15, or 20 miles. Nothing
really long yet. My longest Coker ride has only been about 35 miles and
that was on my old stock Coker. Now that I have a nice custom Coker
that is way more fun to ride than the stock Coker I'll be doing more
longer rides. I'll be doing some longer rides on it.

I have also put some effort into improving my Coker saddle. It's the
same general design as my 'Roach Airseat'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/Airseat) but I've experimented a lot
with different foam to make it more comfortable for Coker style riding.
I've got a combination now that is comfortable. It worked well for the
20 mile ride I did. I'll have to see how it works for longer rides.
Changing to different shapes and types of foam makes a big difference in
the air seat. What works well for muni doesn't necessarily work as well
for Cokering.

My max speed on my old stock Coker was 17.5 mph, but that ended in a
flying UPD. :)
I've been hitting 14 mph on my new Coker without even trying to go
faster than I'm comfortable with. I don't have a desire to go much
faster than that. 14 mph feels a lot better on my new Coker than it did
on my old stock Coker. The new Coker is so much more solid.

About half of the miles on my new Coker have been on the dirt. I like
old dirt rail-road trails. They're great trails for a Coker.


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supertones
December 17th 03, 10:42 AM
When you say only, 10, 15, 20, I find that funny. Seeing as how my
longest ride was going back and forth in a parking lot, and getting off
cause I couldn't stand sitting that long, but I guess this comes with
time and riding.

Thats cool that you haven't had any UPD's with your new one, hopefully
the one going 17.5 ( wow, thats fast ) didn't hurt too much.

Andrew


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john_childs
December 17th 03, 09:12 PM
supertones wrote:
> *Thats cool that you haven't had any UPD's with your new one,
> hopefully the one going 17.5 ( wow, thats fast ) didn't hurt too much.
>
> *

The 17.5 mph crash only hurt my pride. I had Rollerblade kneepads on
and full finger cycling gloves. All I ended up with is a tiny bit of
road rash on my forearm.

I've had one UPD on my new Coker where I didn't land on my feet. The
wheel slipped out from under me when I tried to turn on a slick wet
boardwalk. I got a bloody pedal scrape on the shin from that crash.


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ajp529
December 22nd 03, 10:17 PM
What do you mean custom? I just bought a stock for $300. Was it worth
it? I plan on using it to ride to skool and school (no pedestrians where
I live).

Alex


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john_childs
December 23rd 03, 12:13 AM
ajp529 wrote:
> *What do you mean custom? I just bought a stock for $300. Was it worth
> it? I plan on using it to ride to skool and school (no pedestrians
> where I live).
>
> Alex *

My handle is custom because I made it just for me.

I call my unicycle a custom Coker because I don't know what else to call
it. I'll have to come up with a name for it. I can't really call it a
Coker anymore since the only thing Coker on it is the tire and tube.

The stock Coker is well worth it. It works well and there is nothing
else quite like the way that a Coker rides.

So far I have spent about $1000 on my custom Coker including the cost of
the JC Coker Handle. All the upgrades are well worth it for me, but
$1000 is a lot for a unicycle.

The downside of the stock Coker is the rim. The rim is wimpy and
doesn't make for a strong wheel. The Airfoil rim makes for a much
stronger Coker wheel, but it also makes for a more expensive unicycle.
The Deluxe Coker (which has the Airfoil rim) is $489 from unicycle.com.
With the upgraded wheel the Deluxe Coker makes for a better unicycle.
If you're riding the Coker for performance or being rough with it then
the Airfoil wheel gets to be more necessary. But lots of people have
been using the stock Coker with the stock wheel and it has worked OK.


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jagur
December 25th 03, 08:20 PM
harper wrote:
> *Do you wonder any more why we call him "JC"?*
ah..cause he listens to Johnny Cash..?


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