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View Full Version : nubless summit - i.e. nubless KH cranks


duaner
May 14th 04, 10:41 PM
Thanks to a couple of bolts from Darren Bedford, and about 20 minutes of
work, my Summit's KH cranks are now nubless.

A comparison picture
top: KH140 cranks - now nubless
bottom: KH170 cranks - still have nubs


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| Attachment filename: kh_nubs_cranks.jpg |
|Download attachment: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/210112|
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duaner
May 14th 04, 10:43 PM
left: nubless
rite: nubs


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| Attachment filename: kh_nubs.jpg |
|Download attachment: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/210114|
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duaner
May 14th 04, 10:51 PM
I modified my Summit first, because the nubs bothered me more on the
short (trials) cranks than on the long (muni) cranks.

Now that I've done it, I just need to order a couple of more bolts so I
can make the same modification on my muni.

FYI: I wear hightops shoes when riding, so the nubs never bloodied my
ankles. But I still want nubless because:
- on my trials: I occasionally catch my heal on the nub, throwing an
otherwise good move out of control
- on both trials and muni: the nubs are destroying my leg armor (tearing
holes in the ankle area)


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john_childs
May 14th 04, 11:01 PM
Cool stuff.

What's different about Darren's bolts? Did you have to add any
additional spacer washers on the axle (spindle) to get the cranks to fit
snugly again?

And for comparison, here's 'Steve Howard's nub removal gallery'
(http://gallery.unicyclist.com/protrusion)


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duaner
May 14th 04, 11:55 PM
john_childs wrote:
> *What's different about Darren's bolts? Did you have to add any
> additional spacer washers on the axle (spindle) to get the cranks to
> fit snugly again?
>
> And for comparison, here's 'Steve Howard's nub removal gallery'
> (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/protrusion) *


The top of the bolt is rounded and wider (you can see it fairly well in
the pics).

The nub part of the crank had to be cut off and ground down - this is
the same crank modification as 'Steve Howard's'
(http://gallery.unicyclist.com/protrusion). However, I used much cruder
tools, and got a very satifactory result. I *_carefully_* used a
hacksaw and a bench grinder. I ground the surface slowly and
intermittently to prevent any accidental "heat treatment" (I never let
the part get hot to touch). This took no more than 10 minutes per
crank.

No spacers or anything were necessary.


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Darren
May 14th 04, 11:55 PM
John

I was going to make a announcement in 2 weeks about the new bolts
available from
Bedford Unicycles that can be used to replace the ones that currently
come on the KH and other unicycles.

These bolts along with a quick removal of the nub on the crank will
eliminate the protrusion that everyone has been complaining about for
the last year or so.

I have been doing this for over 6 months now.
I have the bolts coming from 2 suppliers and will be able to supply
about 300 customers/unicycles.

Anyone wanting to order the bolts that will come with instructions can
send a e-mail to me, Darren,
at info at Bedfordunicycles dot ca


The difference between Steve Howards option and mine is... anyone can do
my option and the crank stays in the original location/postition. No
spacers required keeping the Q factor the same.
Another reason, it's inexpensive, Just the price of the bolts.

I will also offer the option of removing the nub
for those who wouldn't want to do it themselves.


Keep tuned for more info soon,
Darren


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darchibald
May 15th 04, 01:10 AM
How much are these bolts and how do you grind the nub down?

David


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andrew_carter
May 15th 04, 01:39 AM
That's really nice, I'm going to give it a shot now on my trials uni.

Andrew


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john_childs
May 15th 04, 06:14 AM
Darren wrote:
> *The difference between Steve Howards option and mine is... anyone can
> do my option and the crank stays in the original location/postition.
> No spacers required keeping the Q factor the same.
> Another reason, it's inexpensive, Just the price of the bolts.
> *

Very interesting. The bolt must have a specially shaped shoulder to
allow the modified crank to fit on without needing an additional spacer.
I assume it's a custom machined bolt.

Cool stuff. That's innovation.


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rogeratunicycledotcom
May 15th 04, 09:52 AM
john_childs wrote:
> *Cool stuff. That's innovation. *


Yes credit should go to Yoggi in France who did this converstion 12
months ago. We then passed the modification on to the factory who
implemented it on all the newer models. So this modification is only
needed if you have an older model or replacement cranks.

Should really put these in our catalogue as well, been a bit slow in
implenting that. Well done Darren.

Roger


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Tmornstar
May 15th 04, 04:05 PM
Way to go to all of you who have made this adaptation possible. Taking
the nubs off my Summit have totaly change my relationship with my
summit.

Tommy


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mgrant
May 16th 04, 12:56 AM
john_childs wrote:
> *
> Very interesting. The bolt must have a specially shaped shoulder to
> allow the modified crank to fit on without needing an additional
> spacer. I assume it's a custom machined bolt.
> *


Interseting? Yes.
Innovative? Yes.
Custom? Nope.

The bolt has a wide flat shoulder. Unlike the stock bolts which push
against the inside surface of the crank, the outer edge of the new bolt
head pushes against the _outside_ of nub. Everything, except the excess
portion of the nub, remains in exactly the same place as before.
Therefore no need for additional spacers. Look carefully at the above
pics.

My KH24 is equipped with these bolts. I'm not sure if this was a
post-production modification that Darren did or if that's how all the
2004 models are.

-mg


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