Re: Tips for increasing fitness/stamina please!

[Richard Bates]

On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:56:46 +0100, "Lee" >
in > wrote:

>Hi there,
>
>was due to start commuting to work today but due to me failing miserably to
>get anywhere on Sunday I have decided to take it one step at a time.
>
>Can anyone suggest the best way for me to build up my fitness so that I can
>attempt the 6 mile commute by bike!?

First of all, don't feel bad that you "failed miserably" on Sunday. I
assume from that statement that you did get somewhere, but that it
wasn't as far as you would have liked. Focus only on the bit that you
DID acheive.

Set out earlier! Seriously, 6 miles is a very good starting distance.
Don't set any targets in terms of time for a couple of weeks: just get
used to how 6 miles feels and be proud of the fact that you have
acheived it.

After a couple of weeks or so, you will naturally be going faster and
finding it less effort.

I have never done any kind of formal training in cycling. I just cycle
most places I go and the fitness just works itself out.

Another few tips are:

Cycle only on alternate days until you feel fitter.

Cycle to work, get home by other means. Then do the reverse on the
next day.

Cycle gently when going to work (so you still smell sweet), but go
like the clappers on the way home to get your heart beating!

Love and hugs from Rich x

--
If ingnorance is bliss then I am the erm er
luckiest thingy in the whatchamacallit.
To mail me, change the obvious bit to richard

[Lee]

"Richard Bates" > wrote in
message ...

>
> Set out earlier! Seriously, 6 miles is a very good starting distance.
> Don't set any targets in terms of time for a couple of weeks: just get
> used to how 6 miles feels and be proud of the fact that you have
> acheived it.
>
> After a couple of weeks or so, you will naturally be going faster and
> finding it less effort.
>
> I have never done any kind of formal training in cycling. I just cycle
> most places I go and the fitness just works itself out.
>
> Another few tips are:
>
> Cycle only on alternate days until you feel fitter.
>
> Cycle to work, get home by other means. Then do the reverse on the
> next day.
>
> Cycle gently when going to work (so you still smell sweet), but go
> like the clappers on the way home to get your heart beating!
>
> Love and hugs from Rich x
>
> --
> If ingnorance is bliss then I am the erm er
> luckiest thingy in the whatchamacallit.
> To mail me, change the obvious bit to richard

Well, i managed about half a mile before dying (got back ok tho so i guess
that constitutes a mile :-) )

I did have a hangover however and didnt realise till that point - I guess
that didnt help matters.

Im going out again when i get home from work - i am not going to let this
fitness thing beat me!

[Tim Woodall]

On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:56:46 +0100,
Lee > wrote:
> Hi there,
>
> was due to start commuting to work today but due to me failing miserably to
> get anywhere on Sunday I have decided to take it one step at a time.
>
> Can anyone suggest the best way for me to build up my fitness so that I can
> attempt the 6 mile commute by bike!?
>
> Also losing weight has to be a priority - not easy to lug around stones and
> stones of lard on a bike :-)
>
> Any advise would be appreciated
>
I remember recently reading a short paper about why cyclists don't stop.
I think it was by Chris Juden and I think I saw it on John Franklin's site
but I can't find it now.

One of the things it said was that cycling at 12mph uses about the same
energy (power) as walking at 3mph.
3mph is a steady walking pace, by no means fast but you can't stop to pick
the blackberries on the way :-)

Assuming your commute has no vicious hills in it then basically you need
to get yourself to the point where you can sustain half an hour of continuous
exercise without stopping (at all).

But I would suggest that you actually want to be a little fitter than this,
and I would aim for the ability to walk 3 miles in a hour. (Personally, I
find it hard to believe that anybody can't walk this far in a hour but I
know a (not overweight) couple who said they spent three weeks working up
to walking a mile in the evening)

Once you have got to the point where you can sustain steady exercise for an
hour, try cycling to work (and back :-). Get a cycle computer (if you haven't
already got one) and don't let your speed get too high at the start. What
you are aiming for at this point is an average speed of 12mph. On any
normal 6 miles you will probably manage to coast up to 20mph in some places
so don't be surprised when you are down to 5mph in others. Don't be tempted
to belt it down one of the early downhills on your commute.

One final tip for when you start, check the windspeed and direction before
you start cycling. This has two benefits. One, safety. When the wind is
stong and gusty you have to anticipate where the danger spots are and give
yourself plenty of room for balance (road bridges over motorways can be
particularly nasty IME) and the other common sense, if it is all you can
manage to cycle home in the evening then you don't want your early trips
to be into a 20mph head wind. (Going to work isn't so much of a problem,
you can always turn round and go home and get the car :-)

Tim.

--
God said, "div D = rho, div B = 0, curl E = - @B/@t, curl H = J + @D/@t,"
and there was light.

http://tjw.hn.org/ http://www.locofungus.btinternet.co.uk/

[W K]

"Lee" > wrote in message
...

> Well, i managed about half a mile before dying (got back ok tho so i guess
> that constitutes a mile :-) )

Thats probably a case of trying too hard.
It can take a lot of effort to stop yourself going too fast.

Learn to trundle effectively.

> I did have a hangover however and didnt realise till that point - I guess
> that didnt help matters.

that really really doesnt help.

[Lee]

"W K" > wrote in message
...
>
> > Well, i managed about half a mile before dying (got back ok tho so i
guess
> > that constitutes a mile :-) )
>
> Thats probably a case of trying too hard.
> It can take a lot of effort to stop yourself going too fast.
>
> Learn to trundle effectively.
>
> > I did have a hangover however and didnt realise till that point - I
guess
> > that didnt help matters.
>
> that really really doesnt help.
>
>

Trying to hard may be my problem - maybe i am trying to go to fast? Uphill
is the bit that i strugle with, a shame cos i only have probably 2 fairly
nasty hills - is there a good way to "trundle up hill"?

I am hoping it was the hangover that stopped me going further - hopefully
tonight will be better ;-)

[elyob]

"Lee" > wrote in message
...
> Hi there,
>
> was due to start commuting to work today but due to me failing miserably
to
> get anywhere on Sunday I have decided to take it one step at a time.
>
> Can anyone suggest the best way for me to build up my fitness so that I
can
> attempt the 6 mile commute by bike!?
>
> Also losing weight has to be a priority - not easy to lug around stones
and
> stones of lard on a bike :-)
>
> Any advise would be appreciated
>

Put your headphones on and go for it :)

[Lee]

"elyob" > wrote in message
...
>

>
> Put your headphones on and go for it :)
>
>

Sounds like a plan - need to be a tad fitter first tho (or maybe try a
little less hard!)

[Paul Rudin]

>>>>> "Tim" == Tim Woodall > writes:


> Get a cycle computer (if you haven't already got one) and don't
> let your speed get too high at the start. What you are aiming
> for at this point is an average speed of 12mph.

Alternatively get a heart rate monitor - this is probably a better way
of measuring and regulating your effort than road speed. You can buy
cycle computers that are also heart rate monitors for the best of both
worlds.

[Lee]

"mule" > wrote in message
...
> Also if your bike has gears, try to use them to do the work and not rely
> on the strength in your legs too much.
>
> A lot of people (me included) started out cycling using the big gears and
> using brawn to motor along. Obviously a degree of fitness is necessary
> but the more efficient (enduring and less injury-prone) way is to "spin".
>
> Use the smaller gears and use more "RPM" instead of burning our your
> thigh muscles and that way you might find that you also last longer.
>

The gears thing i need to figure out - whilst the bike does have numerous
gears (3 near the pedals and 4 or 5 on the back wheel) i have no real idea
of judging what they all do!?!

E.g. my left handle bar has 3 different settings and my right has as many as
8 or 9 i think!? any suggestions?

Sorry to sound dumb - the last bike i rode was a BMX Team Marlborough when i
was about 8 years old ! One gear but went miles on that old bike!

[elyob]

"Lee" > wrote in message
...
>
> "mule" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Also if your bike has gears, try to use them to do the work and not rely
> > on the strength in your legs too much.
> >
> > A lot of people (me included) started out cycling using the big gears
and
> > using brawn to motor along. Obviously a degree of fitness is necessary
> > but the more efficient (enduring and less injury-prone) way is to
"spin".
> >
> > Use the smaller gears and use more "RPM" instead of burning our your
> > thigh muscles and that way you might find that you also last longer.
> >
>
> The gears thing i need to figure out - whilst the bike does have numerous
> gears (3 near the pedals and 4 or 5 on the back wheel) i have no real idea
> of judging what they all do!?!
>
> E.g. my left handle bar has 3 different settings and my right has as many
as
> 8 or 9 i think!? any suggestions?
>
> Sorry to sound dumb - the last bike i rode was a BMX Team Marlborough when
i
> was about 8 years old ! One gear but went miles on that old bike!
>
>

Most importantly, don't cross the chain. i.e. keep the chain as straight as
possible. A lot of the gears aren't useable, it depends on which front
sprocket you are on. If you are in the middle front ring, you can use 5 or 6
of the middle rings, if you're on the big sprocket, you can use the 5 or 6
from the outside in. etc etc

[Lee]

"elyob" > wrote in message
...
>
> Most importantly, don't cross the chain. i.e. keep the chain as straight
as
> possible. A lot of the gears aren't useable, it depends on which front
> sprocket you are on. If you are in the middle front ring, you can use 5 or
6
> of the middle rings, if you're on the big sprocket, you can use the 5 or 6
> from the outside in. etc etc
>
>

Reminds me of a fave film of mine, Ghostbusters (dont cross the
streams)...... anyway..

My chain seems to be on the smaller (and sometimes middle) cog, basically
what you are saying is not to mess with that (keep it either on 1,2 or 3)
and fiddle with the other handle (with more options)

[Lee]

"Cicero" > wrote in message
news:767Va.18$nq.5@news-fe1...
>

> =====================
> A good way to start is to ride a short circular route (possibly a mile or
> less) so that a short ride brings you back home. Then repeat the same
> circuit as many times as you can without undue straining. This way you can
> always stagger home just before you expire and you'll never be too far
from
> home. It's boring but safe and before long you'll be as fit as a fiddle.
>
> Cic.
>
>

Thats my plan at the moment - do a bit of a circular route to build up
fitness.

My target is to be able to cycle to and from work reasonably before my car
insurance and MOT is due (October i think).

doesnt seem unreasonable - its only just over 6 miles each way!

[Phil.Winterbourne]

Lee wrote:
>
> Hi there,
>
> was due to start commuting to work today but due to me failing miserably to
> get anywhere on Sunday I have decided to take it one step at a time.
>
> Can anyone suggest the best way for me to build up my fitness so that I can
> attempt the 6 mile commute by bike!?
>
> Also losing weight has to be a priority - not easy to lug around stones and
> stones of lard on a bike :-)
>
> Any advise would be appreciated
>
> Lee

When I started cycling I found a little off road loop of about 6 miles.
I work from home so I did it every available lunch time (2-3 days a week
I'm out of the office in meetings), and on nice evenings. Withing 3
weeks I had got it down from 50 minutes to half an hour. Once I hit
this milestone I started exploring a bit.

This was 3 years ago, now my lunchtime rides are about 12 miles, and my
evening ones can be as long as 32.

Just take is steadily, but make each ride a challenge - can I knock a
minute off my previous best? Can I get up that horrible hill without
stopping for breath? Can I get up the big road hill without using the
granny ring?

All that being said I think I started from a higher level of base
fitness - the thing that got me hooked was borrowing my mates wife's
bike and doing a 12 mile route in the North Yorkshire Moors. I was
totally dead at the end though!

Have you been to see your doctor? It seems to me that if you can't ride
for a mile without feeling awful, you should perhaps get a quick health
check. You don't want to do yourself an injury by trying to hard at
first and putting yourself off for good.

(By the way I'm 16 stone as well & 6'1", so there is hope)

Phil

[Doesnotcompute]

Lee wrote:
> The gears thing i need to figure out - whilst the bike does have numerous
> gears (3 near the pedals and 4 or 5 on the back wheel) i have no real idea
> of judging what they all do!?!
>
> E.g. my left handle bar has 3 different settings and my right has as many as
> 8 or 9 i think!? any suggestions?
>
> Sorry to sound dumb - the last bike i rode was a BMX Team Marlborough when i
> was about 8 years old ! One gear but went miles on that old bike!

This will make a huge difference to how you ride.
At the pedals you have 3 rings, controlled by the left hand:

small|middle|large

At the wheel you have more rings (7 or 8 at a guess) controlled by the
right hand:

largest|> middle >|smallest

now convert these to numbers:
Pedals _____1:2:3_____
Wheels 1:2:3:4:5:6:7:8

Together 1 and 1 is the easiest gear. On a flat, your legs will go round
like the clappers and you'll go nowhere very fast.

Together 3 and 8 is the hardest gear. On a flat, your legs will go round
not very much, but you'll cover lots of distance (comparably).

So if you had a perfectly flat ride, you'd start at P1+W1 and work your
way through the gears as you pick up speed. So as the pedalling gets
easier you change gear to make it a bit harder again - and so on.

As someone mentioned, it;s bad news [tm] to cross the chain, so P1 and
W8 is bad. Just as P3 and W1.

Ideally on a flat distance from standing you'd go:
P1 W1 - slow!
P1 W2
P1 W3 - don't cross the chain so move up at pedal end
P2 W3
P2 W4
P2 W5 - don't cross the chain so move up at pedal end
P3 W5
P3 W6
P3 W7
P3 W8 - lightning speed!

So that's "how the gears work". All you have to do is start easy, and
work down until you're uncomfortable and then click back a step.
Obviously your comfort zone will depend on the gradient. Going up a hill
in P3W8 will be agony compared to P1W1 but usually somewhere in the
middle will do.

Remember the only "correct" gear, is the one that is most comfortable
for you.

Hope that helps?

--
Dnc

[Lee]

"Doesnotcompute" > wrote in message
...
> This will make a huge difference to how you ride.
> At the pedals you have 3 rings, controlled by the left hand:
>
> small|middle|large
>
> At the wheel you have more rings (7 or 8 at a guess) controlled by the
> right hand:
>
> largest|> middle >|smallest
>
> now convert these to numbers:
> Pedals _____1:2:3_____
> Wheels 1:2:3:4:5:6:7:8
>
> Together 1 and 1 is the easiest gear. On a flat, your legs will go round
> like the clappers and you'll go nowhere very fast.
>
> Together 3 and 8 is the hardest gear. On a flat, your legs will go round
> not very much, but you'll cover lots of distance (comparably).
>
> So if you had a perfectly flat ride, you'd start at P1+W1 and work your
> way through the gears as you pick up speed. So as the pedalling gets
> easier you change gear to make it a bit harder again - and so on.
>
> As someone mentioned, it;s bad news [tm] to cross the chain, so P1 and
> W8 is bad. Just as P3 and W1.
>
> Ideally on a flat distance from standing you'd go:
> P1 W1 - slow!
> P1 W2
> P1 W3 - don't cross the chain so move up at pedal end
> P2 W3
> P2 W4
> P2 W5 - don't cross the chain so move up at pedal end
> P3 W5
> P3 W6
> P3 W7
> P3 W8 - lightning speed!
>
> So that's "how the gears work". All you have to do is start easy, and
> work down until you're uncomfortable and then click back a step.
> Obviously your comfort zone will depend on the gradient. Going up a hill
> in P3W8 will be agony compared to P1W1 but usually somewhere in the
> middle will do.
>
> Remember the only "correct" gear, is the one that is most comfortable
> for you.
>
> Hope that helps?
>
> --
> Dnc
>

Brilliant thanks - I see what u mean about crossing the chain now - wasnt
sure at first - ill put this into practise later on.

So is i went 1:1 up hil the pedals would turn easier and it would be less
effort? Or would i grind to a halt??

[Doesnotcompute]

Lee wrote:


>
> Brilliant thanks - I see what u mean about crossing the chain now - wasnt
> sure at first - ill put this into practise later on.

Good stuff. You might want to print that, take the bike outsidee and
have a play. It'll make even more sense then.

> So is i went 1:1 up hil the pedals would turn easier and it would be less
> effort? Or would i grind to a halt??

Yes, you'd get lots of very easy leg turns but take ages to get up the
hill. This is known as "spinning" which no doubt you'll see mentioned
round here lots.

3:8 however would be "grinding" where you have to work really hard,
usually causing pain/burning in the muscles, and if you're not fit
enough or the hill is too steep you will literally grind to a halt..

When approaching and climbing hills, make sure you change down the gears
sooner rather than later, as you start to grind it gets much harder for
the chain to move across the cogs. You'll find this out soon enough
anyway :)

--
Dnc

[W K]

"Lee" > wrote in message
...

> Trying to hard may be my problem - maybe i am trying to go to fast?

yep. Unless you are in a terrible physical condition you should be able to
do 30 mins or so - even with a hangover.

>Uphill
> is the bit that i strugle with, a shame cos i only have probably 2 fairly
> nasty hills - is there a good way to "trundle up hill"?

Yes ... slowly. There are hills that are simply "impossible" - in that you
cannot keep the bike upright and keep at a power output you can sustain.

Its not very motivating, but it does take time to build up the fitness.
If you can fit it into a routine, ( and don't over-do it and half kill
yourself - or more likely give up as it feels bad ) then time will pass and
sooner or later you'll realise that you've got quite good at it, and will be
going up those hills better.

[elyob]

"Doesnotcompute" > wrote in message
...
> Lee wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Brilliant thanks - I see what u mean about crossing the chain now -
wasnt
> > sure at first - ill put this into practise later on.
>
> Good stuff. You might want to print that, take the bike outsidee and
> have a play. It'll make even more sense then.
>
> > So is i went 1:1 up hil the pedals would turn easier and it would be
less
> > effort? Or would i grind to a halt??
>
> Yes, you'd get lots of very easy leg turns but take ages to get up the
> hill. This is known as "spinning" which no doubt you'll see mentioned
> round here lots.
>
> 3:8 however would be "grinding" where you have to work really hard,
> usually causing pain/burning in the muscles, and if you're not fit
> enough or the hill is too steep you will literally grind to a halt..
>
> When approaching and climbing hills, make sure you change down the gears
> sooner rather than later, as you start to grind it gets much harder for
> the chain to move across the cogs. You'll find this out soon enough
> anyway :)
>
>

Make sure you make a decision on the gear before you hit a steep climb. For
example, I will slip into P1 (using the previous example) and raise up on
the rear cassette knowing that I'm going to have to be in a climbing gear in
a minute. When the pedals are under a lot of stress, gear changing can be a
lot trickier and can sometimes lock up. Mainly I stick in the middle ring at
the front, and move around the rear cassette. However, I have just replaced
my rear cassette with a road one, with much closer ratios. Not sure this was
a great move, and am still playing with it.

[James Hodson]

On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:18:43 +0100, "Lee" >
wrote:

>Brilliant thanks - I see what u mean about crossing the chain now - wasnt
>sure at first - ill put this into practise later on.
>
>So is i went 1:1 up hil the pedals would turn easier and it would be less
>effort? Or would i grind to a halt??
>

Hi Lee

BTDTGTTS (Is that correct, Guy?) I used to be rather large before I
started cycling again some ten years ago.

Re those first few cycling days, weeks and months:

I live in a flat part of the country and found, at least on those flat
bits, that P2 W4, W5, or W6 suited me best for a longish ride. With a
tail wind I'd often move to P3 W6, W7 or even W8.

There are really not too many hills in my little part of Sussex - not
ones I ride across, anyway!! But one uphills or into a strong headwind
I used to use P2 W3 or P4. Only very occasionally would I use P1.

The basic idea is to find a suitable cadence (pedal revs per minute)
and try to stick roughly to it by changing gears. I'd guess that a
cadence between 60rpm and 90rpm would suit you - the higher the
better, IMO, as it's easier to maintain.

Regards
James

--
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/c.butty/Larrau.jpg

[Michael MacClancy]

In message >, Lee
> writes
>Hi there,
>
>was due to start commuting to work today but due to me failing miserably to
>get anywhere on Sunday I have decided to take it one step at a time.
>
>Can anyone suggest the best way for me to build up my fitness so that I can
>attempt the 6 mile commute by bike!?
>
>Also losing weight has to be a priority - not easy to lug around stones and
>stones of lard on a bike :-)
>
>Any advise would be appreciated
>
>Lee
>
>
What sort of bike are you riding?
--
Michael MacClancy

[James Hodson]

On Sat, 2 Aug 2003 06:56:21 +0100, "Dave" > wrote:

>I think I've worked it out now. It's all about the spinning rather than
>pushing, but it was as funny as ...... when it first started happening 'cos
>it took me completely by surprise, guess it doesn't help not being
>clipless....there I was, lycra, helmet & sunglasses, on me racer, doing an
>impression of a jack in the box on speed ;-)
>

Ah-ha! You didn't mention the clipless - ie no clips - bit.

James

--
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/c.butty/Larrau.jpg

[Stevie D]

Lee wrote:

> Trying to hard may be my problem - maybe i am trying to go to fast?
> Uphill is the bit that i strugle with, a shame cos i only have
> probably 2 fairly nasty hills - is there a good way to "trundle up
> hill"?

The usual advice about using a low gear would seem appropriate...

If you use a low gear, and therefore spin the pedals faster, this is
much easier than struggling in a high gear, and is much better for
you, as it is more aerobic exercise (cardiovascular stuff) and less
damaging to your knees.

For hills, change down to a lower gear early, keep changing down if
you slow down more, and just go up it at a pace you find comfortable.
If that is no more than walking pace, go at walking pace. Much better
to get to the top a little bit slower but be able to carry on than to
race up then have to stop for 10 minutes to get your breath back!

--
Stevie D
\\\\\ ///// Bringing dating agencies to the
\\\\\\\__X__/////// common hedgehog since 2001 - "HedgeHugs"
___\\\\\\\'/ \'///////_____________________________________________

[Stevie D]

elyob wrote:

> Put your headphones on and go for it :)

To anyone who was going to take this seriously - don't!

Headphones are absolutely lethal for cyclists. To have an accurate
picture of the traffic around you, you must be able to hear it
clearly. Listening to music will distract you, and may mask the sound
of an approaching vehicle, which could be dangerous.

--
Stevie D
\\\\\ ///// Bringing dating agencies to the
\\\\\\\__X__/////// common hedgehog since 2001 - "HedgeHugs"
___\\\\\\\'/ \'///////_____________________________________________

[Stevie D]

Doesnotcompute wrote:

> So that's "how the gears work". All you have to do is start easy, and
> work down until you're uncomfortable and then click back a step.
> Obviously your comfort zone will depend on the gradient. Going up a hill
> in P3W8 will be agony compared to P1W1 but usually somewhere in the
> middle will do.

It is rarely necessary to start at 1/1 - especially on the flat. I
only ever use the gears that far down when I am going up a hill
carrying lots of heavy stuff, or going up a really steep hill. I
usually start in about 2/3 or 2/4.

You'll also find that there is a lot of overlap between the gears. So
it may be that 1/6 actually gives you the same result as 2/1 - the 24
gears do not follow sequentially all the way through!

--
Stevie D
\\\\\ ///// Bringing dating agencies to the
\\\\\\\__X__/////// common hedgehog since 2001 - "HedgeHugs"
___\\\\\\\'/ \'///////_____________________________________________

[Nick Kew]

In article >, one of infinite monkeys
at the keyboard of Stevie D > wrote:
> picture of the traffic around you, you must be able to hear it
> clearly.

So you'd deny the pleasure of cycling to the deaf?

Having cycled with a club that had (has?) a profoundly deaf member,
I'd hate to see him denied his Sundays.

--
Axis of Evil: Whose economy needs ever more wars?
Arms Exports $bn: USA 14.2, UK 5.1, vs France 1.5, Germany 0.8
(The Economist, July 2002)

[Gawnsoft]

On Thu, 07 Aug 2003 12:57:39 +0100, Stevie D
> wrote (more or less):

>elyob wrote:
>
>> Put your headphones on and go for it :)
>
>To anyone who was going to take this seriously - don't!
>
>Headphones are absolutely lethal for cyclists. To have an accurate
>picture of the traffic around you, you must be able to hear it
>clearly. Listening to music will distract you, and may mask the sound
>of an approaching vehicle, which could be dangerous.


I do use headphones to listen to music as I cycle, but I /don't/ put
them 'in-ear'.

I put them near my ears, and trn the volume up, so that I hear the
stuff from the headphones _in addition to_ the traffic/ambient noise
rather than _instead of_ ambient/traffic noise.

(sort of like having a radio w. speaker taped to your handlebars, but
with less expensive batteries.

I'm not recommending doing this particularly, but it's a major step
better for your health and safety than cycling with the headphones
actually stuck in your ear.

And not listening to any music or radio is even better for your health
and safety.

Of course, sitting in armchairs wrapped in cotton wool is even better
for your safety, but is wrse for your health...


Cheers,
Euan
Gawnsoft: http://www.gawnsoft.co.sr
Symbian/Epoc wiki: http://html.dnsalias.net:1122
Smalltalk links (harvested from comp.lang.smalltalk) http://html.dnsalias.net/gawnsoft/smalltalk

[Stevie D]

Nick Kew wrote:

> So you'd deny the pleasure of cycling to the deaf?

Not at all.

To cycle as safely as you can, you need to be able to hear the
traffic. If you can't hear anything, that means that you might be less
safe than a cyclist who can.

A deaf person can't choose to hear, so they have to accept the
potentially higher risk. Anyone else can choose to hear or not to hear
(eg, by using a personal stereo), and if they have any sense will
choose the safe option over the unsafe option.

--
Stevie D
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