New bike?

[Tim Jones]

Just wondering if I can get some opinions on what I should do...

The bike I have has a Wheeler 2100 frame, custom wheels, STI levers and
decent shimano gear. The bike is targetted for strength rather than racing
and I've done about 15,000k over the last 6 years that I've had it.

Last week, started getting a bad noise from the bottom bracket so took it in
to the local store and decided I'd go for the repair and a complete strip
service for $100. The pedals also needed replacing, so decided also to
upgrade from clips to cleats, so I was up to about $400 with shoes.

When they started work on the bike however I was informed that the STI
levers were just about shot, which was why I was getting poor shifts and
chain slips, so that's another $300.

So, with a $500 repair bill that I was looking at, started to look at the
possibility of a new bike.

A new bike with similar group sets but poorer rims is about $900 or I am
thinking about a mountain bike for $800-$1200. It would be used for comuting
and riding with my 6 YO son predominantly.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Tim

[Tim Jones]

"Tim Jones" > wrote in message
. au...
> Just wondering if I can get some opinions on what I should do...
>
> The bike I have has a Wheeler 2100 frame, custom wheels, STI levers and
> decent shimano gear. The bike is targetted for strength rather than racing
> and I've done about 15,000k over the last 6 years that I've had it.
>
> Last week, started getting a bad noise from the bottom bracket so took it
in
> to the local store and decided I'd go for the repair and a complete strip
> service for $100. The pedals also needed replacing, so decided also to
> upgrade from clips to cleats, so I was up to about $400 with shoes.
>
> When they started work on the bike however I was informed that the STI
> levers were just about shot, which was why I was getting poor shifts and
> chain slips, so that's another $300.
>
> So, with a $500 repair bill that I was looking at, started to look at the
> possibility of a new bike.
>
> A new bike with similar group sets but poorer rims is about $900 or I am
> thinking about a mountain bike for $800-$1200. It would be used for
comuting
> and riding with my 6 YO son predominantly.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>

Oh yeah - the reason I need a tough bike is that I'm 6'4" and 105kg.

[Tim Jones]

"Tim Jones" > wrote in message
. au...
> Just wondering if I can get some opinions on what I should do...
>
> The bike I have has a Wheeler 2100 frame, custom wheels, STI levers and
> decent shimano gear. The bike is targetted for strength rather than racing
> and I've done about 15,000k over the last 6 years that I've had it.
>
> Last week, started getting a bad noise from the bottom bracket so took it
in
> to the local store and decided I'd go for the repair and a complete strip
> service for $100. The pedals also needed replacing, so decided also to
> upgrade from clips to cleats, so I was up to about $400 with shoes.
>
> When they started work on the bike however I was informed that the STI
> levers were just about shot, which was why I was getting poor shifts and
> chain slips, so that's another $300.
>
> So, with a $500 repair bill that I was looking at, started to look at the
> possibility of a new bike.
>
> A new bike with similar group sets but poorer rims is about $900 or I am
> thinking about a mountain bike for $800-$1200. It would be used for
comuting
> and riding with my 6 YO son predominantly.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>

Oh yeah - the reason I need a tough bike is that I'm 6'4" and 105kg.

[hippy]

"Tim Jones" > wrote in message
. au...
> Last week, started getting a bad noise from the bottom bracket so took
it in
> to the local store and decided I'd go for the repair and a complete
strip
> service for $100. The pedals also needed replacing, so decided also to
> upgrade from clips to cleats, so I was up to about $400 with shoes.

So that's a $300 upgrade - it's not REALLY a necessary repair (although
I do personally like clipless pedals on my roadies).

> When they started work on the bike however I was informed that the STI
> levers were just about shot, which was why I was getting poor shifts
and
> chain slips, so that's another $300.

Hmm, what about the cables? Are they in good nick? I'd perhaps swap
the cables first and get the brakes and gears re-adjusted and see how
it performs.

> So, with a $500 repair bill that I was looking at, started to look at
the
> possibility of a new bike.

Actually that adds up to $700 ;-)
New bikes are always a nice possibility. If you have the money - why
not?
If you don't REALLY need a new bike (only you will be able to work this
part out) then you can probably get away with some cheaper repairs.
Perhaps forget the shoes for now, try new cables and a service and THEN
see how the bike performs. If it's still flaky, weigh up the cost of
repair
versus the cost of replacement.

> A new bike with similar group sets but poorer rims is about $900 or I
am

You could use your existing wheels and sell the others or swap them for
other parts at the shop.

> thinking about a mountain bike for $800-$1200. It would be used for
comuting
> and riding with my 6 YO son predominantly.

That's another option. I've recently swapped from commuting on road
bikes
to commuting on mtb's (even a recently built singlespeed) and I like
them.
It's a tiny bit slower sometimes but I'm having a bit more fun because
you
can venture off road a bit or jump curbs, etc without feeling like
you're
destroying the bike. An mtb would probably be easier to ride around in
parks, etc with your son. Again, it depends on if you can afford one and
how much use it would get.

hth
still pre-caffeine hippy

[hippy]

"Tim Jones" > wrote in message
. au...
> Last week, started getting a bad noise from the bottom bracket so took
it in
> to the local store and decided I'd go for the repair and a complete
strip
> service for $100. The pedals also needed replacing, so decided also to
> upgrade from clips to cleats, so I was up to about $400 with shoes.

So that's a $300 upgrade - it's not REALLY a necessary repair (although
I do personally like clipless pedals on my roadies).

> When they started work on the bike however I was informed that the STI
> levers were just about shot, which was why I was getting poor shifts
and
> chain slips, so that's another $300.

Hmm, what about the cables? Are they in good nick? I'd perhaps swap
the cables first and get the brakes and gears re-adjusted and see how
it performs.

> So, with a $500 repair bill that I was looking at, started to look at
the
> possibility of a new bike.

Actually that adds up to $700 ;-)
New bikes are always a nice possibility. If you have the money - why
not?
If you don't REALLY need a new bike (only you will be able to work this
part out) then you can probably get away with some cheaper repairs.
Perhaps forget the shoes for now, try new cables and a service and THEN
see how the bike performs. If it's still flaky, weigh up the cost of
repair
versus the cost of replacement.

> A new bike with similar group sets but poorer rims is about $900 or I
am

You could use your existing wheels and sell the others or swap them for
other parts at the shop.

> thinking about a mountain bike for $800-$1200. It would be used for
comuting
> and riding with my 6 YO son predominantly.

That's another option. I've recently swapped from commuting on road
bikes
to commuting on mtb's (even a recently built singlespeed) and I like
them.
It's a tiny bit slower sometimes but I'm having a bit more fun because
you
can venture off road a bit or jump curbs, etc without feeling like
you're
destroying the bike. An mtb would probably be easier to ride around in
parks, etc with your son. Again, it depends on if you can afford one and
how much use it would get.

hth
still pre-caffeine hippy

[Tim Jones]

"Gary K" > wrote in message
t.au...
> Tim Jones > wrote:
>
>
> > The cables were going to be replaced, but in the (paraphrased) words of
the
> > mechanic, the STI levers were the most crapped out he'd seen - that most
> > people upgrade bikes before that happens to them.
> >
> > He said I could continue using it, just that it would probably become
> > completely unusable in the next few months.
>
> There's no reason you should believe this. Suppose you flushed each
> lever with WD40 and replaced the cables yourself, chances are they will
> work like new again, all for ~$10.
> My STI levers are 12 years old and gear changes are faultless, never
> have paid a mechanic to work on my bikes either.

Thanks for the info Gary. I might just get the bike fixed without the RTI
levers.

The reason he's says they're stuffed is that the levers (Shimano RTX) move
in their housing, and NOT the way they're meant to. There is about 8mm
travel to the side in the right level and about 4mm in the left - this is
movement when you grab the top of the lever (the pivot point) and push it to
the side. I've taken them appart and can't see what is causing it, it looks
like it all just doesn't fit together like it used to.

Thanks Tim

[Tim Jones]

"Gary K" > wrote in message
t.au...
> Tim Jones > wrote:
>
>
> > The cables were going to be replaced, but in the (paraphrased) words of
the
> > mechanic, the STI levers were the most crapped out he'd seen - that most
> > people upgrade bikes before that happens to them.
> >
> > He said I could continue using it, just that it would probably become
> > completely unusable in the next few months.
>
> There's no reason you should believe this. Suppose you flushed each
> lever with WD40 and replaced the cables yourself, chances are they will
> work like new again, all for ~$10.
> My STI levers are 12 years old and gear changes are faultless, never
> have paid a mechanic to work on my bikes either.

Thanks for the info Gary. I might just get the bike fixed without the RTI
levers.

The reason he's says they're stuffed is that the levers (Shimano RTX) move
in their housing, and NOT the way they're meant to. There is about 8mm
travel to the side in the right level and about 4mm in the left - this is
movement when you grab the top of the lever (the pivot point) and push it to
the side. I've taken them appart and can't see what is causing it, it looks
like it all just doesn't fit together like it used to.

Thanks Tim

[hippy]

"Tim Jones" > wrote in message
. au...
> The reason he's says they're stuffed is that the levers (Shimano RTX)
move
> in their housing, and NOT the way they're meant to. There is about 8mm
> travel to the side in the right level and about 4mm in the left - this
is
> movement when you grab the top of the lever (the pivot point) and push
it to
> the side. I've taken them appart and can't see what is causing it, it
looks
> like it all just doesn't fit together like it used to.

Are the levers easy to disassemble? What about some custom spacers
(washers) on the pivot "axle"?

hippy

[hippy]

"Tim Jones" > wrote in message
. au...
> The reason he's says they're stuffed is that the levers (Shimano RTX)
move
> in their housing, and NOT the way they're meant to. There is about 8mm
> travel to the side in the right level and about 4mm in the left - this
is
> movement when you grab the top of the lever (the pivot point) and push
it to
> the side. I've taken them appart and can't see what is causing it, it
looks
> like it all just doesn't fit together like it used to.

Are the levers easy to disassemble? What about some custom spacers
(washers) on the pivot "axle"?

hippy

[Tim Jones]

"hippy" > wrote in message
...
> "Tim Jones" > wrote in message
> . au...
> > The reason he's says they're stuffed is that the levers (Shimano RTX)
> move
> > in their housing, and NOT the way they're meant to. There is about 8mm
> > travel to the side in the right level and about 4mm in the left - this
> is
> > movement when you grab the top of the lever (the pivot point) and push
> it to
> > the side. I've taken them appart and can't see what is causing it, it
> looks
> > like it all just doesn't fit together like it used to.
>
> Are the levers easy to disassemble? What about some custom spacers
> (washers) on the pivot "axle"?
>

I had a cursory look, and while it's easy to pull the front off, I could not
see how to full disasemble it.

I did go looking at bikes this morning however ;-)

I really like the 2004 Giant Yukon, which also comes in large frame sizes
(23" and 25").

Comes with mechanical disk breaks, deore gear up back, adjustable shocks for
around $700 and a nice matt black. An attractive solid bike for a couple of
hundred more than getting the old one repaired.

My fingers were getting itchy!

I'll keep you posted ;-)

Tim

[Tim Jones]

"hippy" > wrote in message
...
> "Tim Jones" > wrote in message
> . au...
> > The reason he's says they're stuffed is that the levers (Shimano RTX)
> move
> > in their housing, and NOT the way they're meant to. There is about 8mm
> > travel to the side in the right level and about 4mm in the left - this
> is
> > movement when you grab the top of the lever (the pivot point) and push
> it to
> > the side. I've taken them appart and can't see what is causing it, it
> looks
> > like it all just doesn't fit together like it used to.
>
> Are the levers easy to disassemble? What about some custom spacers
> (washers) on the pivot "axle"?
>

I had a cursory look, and while it's easy to pull the front off, I could not
see how to full disasemble it.

I did go looking at bikes this morning however ;-)

I really like the 2004 Giant Yukon, which also comes in large frame sizes
(23" and 25").

Comes with mechanical disk breaks, deore gear up back, adjustable shocks for
around $700 and a nice matt black. An attractive solid bike for a couple of
hundred more than getting the old one repaired.

My fingers were getting itchy!

I'll keep you posted ;-)

Tim

[hippy]

"Tim Jones" > wrote in message
. au...
> I did go looking at bikes this morning however ;-)

Uh oh, here's trouble ;)

> I really like the 2004 Giant Yukon, which also comes in large frame
sizes
> (23" and 25").

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ideal/giant2004.html

Looks quite nice except for those cranks. But real-life would
probably see them looking better. Black is good :)
Those RST forks look much nicer than the ones i just replaced
on my Avanti and the parts list sounds great. MTB's just keep
getting better for less money!

> My fingers were getting itchy!
> I'll keep you posted ;-)

Understandable!
Please do.

hipsta

[hippy]

"Tim Jones" > wrote in message
. au...
> I did go looking at bikes this morning however ;-)

Uh oh, here's trouble ;)

> I really like the 2004 Giant Yukon, which also comes in large frame
sizes
> (23" and 25").

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ideal/giant2004.html

Looks quite nice except for those cranks. But real-life would
probably see them looking better. Black is good :)
Those RST forks look much nicer than the ones i just replaced
on my Avanti and the parts list sounds great. MTB's just keep
getting better for less money!

> My fingers were getting itchy!
> I'll keep you posted ;-)

Understandable!
Please do.

hipsta

[Tim Jones]

"hippy" > wrote in message
...
> "Tim Jones" > wrote in message
> . au...
> > I did go looking at bikes this morning however ;-)
>
> Uh oh, here's trouble ;)
>

You were right...

> > I really like the 2004 Giant Yukon, which also comes in large frame
> sizes
> > (23" and 25").
>
> http://members.iinet.net.au/~ideal/giant2004.html
>
> Looks quite nice except for those cranks. But real-life would
> probably see them looking better. Black is good :)
> Those RST forks look much nicer than the ones i just replaced
> on my Avanti and the parts list sounds great. MTB's just keep
> getting better for less money!
>
> > My fingers were getting itchy!
> > I'll keep you posted ;-)
>
> Understandable!
> Please do.
>

The bike's getting delivered tomorrow for pickup - getting it with
reversable cleats shimano shoes and aluminium bar ends, for about 20% more
than getting my last bike repaired, shoes and cleats. Easily save that in
maintenance costs for the first year (no - I don't really service my own
bikes!)

Excited to go for a ride tomorrow now and see what I can do on a MTB
compared to a road bike!

Now all I have to do is decide what the hell I do with my old bike?

> hipsta
>

Tim

[Tim Jones]

"hippy" > wrote in message
...
> "Tim Jones" > wrote in message
> . au...
> > I did go looking at bikes this morning however ;-)
>
> Uh oh, here's trouble ;)
>

You were right...

> > I really like the 2004 Giant Yukon, which also comes in large frame
> sizes
> > (23" and 25").
>
> http://members.iinet.net.au/~ideal/giant2004.html
>
> Looks quite nice except for those cranks. But real-life would
> probably see them looking better. Black is good :)
> Those RST forks look much nicer than the ones i just replaced
> on my Avanti and the parts list sounds great. MTB's just keep
> getting better for less money!
>
> > My fingers were getting itchy!
> > I'll keep you posted ;-)
>
> Understandable!
> Please do.
>

The bike's getting delivered tomorrow for pickup - getting it with
reversable cleats shimano shoes and aluminium bar ends, for about 20% more
than getting my last bike repaired, shoes and cleats. Easily save that in
maintenance costs for the first year (no - I don't really service my own
bikes!)

Excited to go for a ride tomorrow now and see what I can do on a MTB
compared to a road bike!

Now all I have to do is decide what the hell I do with my old bike?

> hipsta
>

Tim

[Tim Jones]

"hippy" > wrote in message
...
> "Tim Jones" > wrote in message
> news:3f460a2a$0$23585
> > You were right...
>
> Of course ;-P
>
> > The bike's getting delivered tomorrow for pickup - getting it with
> > reversable cleats shimano shoes and aluminium bar ends, for about 20%
more
>
> What are reversable cleats?
>

You have a regular pedal on one side, so you can ride with regular shoes if
you want to (so I can quickly head down to the shops without having to put
on other shoes).

> > than getting my last bike repaired, shoes and cleats. Easily save that
in
> > maintenance costs for the first year (no - I don't really service my own
> > bikes!)
>
> Sounds like my first mtb. I am still riding it in 'near' original
condition,
> but due to poor maintenance the driveline is STUFFED!
> Clean your chain as often as possible and don't lube a dirty chain..
that's
> all I've got to say about that. :)
>

Thanks - I'll keep that in mind. So you need a chain breaker to clean a
chain? Or can you clean it on the bike?

> > Excited to go for a ride tomorrow now and see what I can do on a MTB
> > compared to a road bike!
>
> Well, from my experience, plenty more, just slower. There's wider range
> for hard-to-learn skills to be developed. For example, rather than race
> tactics, you'll wanna learn things like bunnyhopping, jumping stuff,
> handling more varied terrain compared to a road bike. Im always
> amazed at how quickly I land on the ground when riding off road! :-D
> Just getting to know the bike and how it handles should be your first
> priority. That and getting it set up correctly.
>

Not getting it in today :-(

Next week some time.

> > Now all I have to do is decide what the hell I do with my old bike?
>
> Leave it as a spare/commuter, sell it here or Trading Post, etc.
> Donate it to charity, donate it to a relative, etc, etc. I'd hang on
> to it personally.
>
> Have fun!
>
> hip
>

Tim

[Tim Jones]

"hippy" > wrote in message
...
> "Tim Jones" > wrote in message
> news:3f460a2a$0$23585
> > You were right...
>
> Of course ;-P
>
> > The bike's getting delivered tomorrow for pickup - getting it with
> > reversable cleats shimano shoes and aluminium bar ends, for about 20%
more
>
> What are reversable cleats?
>

You have a regular pedal on one side, so you can ride with regular shoes if
you want to (so I can quickly head down to the shops without having to put
on other shoes).

> > than getting my last bike repaired, shoes and cleats. Easily save that
in
> > maintenance costs for the first year (no - I don't really service my own
> > bikes!)
>
> Sounds like my first mtb. I am still riding it in 'near' original
condition,
> but due to poor maintenance the driveline is STUFFED!
> Clean your chain as often as possible and don't lube a dirty chain..
that's
> all I've got to say about that. :)
>

Thanks - I'll keep that in mind. So you need a chain breaker to clean a
chain? Or can you clean it on the bike?

> > Excited to go for a ride tomorrow now and see what I can do on a MTB
> > compared to a road bike!
>
> Well, from my experience, plenty more, just slower. There's wider range
> for hard-to-learn skills to be developed. For example, rather than race
> tactics, you'll wanna learn things like bunnyhopping, jumping stuff,
> handling more varied terrain compared to a road bike. Im always
> amazed at how quickly I land on the ground when riding off road! :-D
> Just getting to know the bike and how it handles should be your first
> priority. That and getting it set up correctly.
>

Not getting it in today :-(

Next week some time.

> > Now all I have to do is decide what the hell I do with my old bike?
>
> Leave it as a spare/commuter, sell it here or Trading Post, etc.
> Donate it to charity, donate it to a relative, etc, etc. I'd hang on
> to it personally.
>
> Have fun!
>
> hip
>

Tim

[Jack Russell]

Swear at They are fiddly and messy, the Sachs type breakable chain is
the way to go.

Jack Russell

> Alternatively, you can get on-bike chain-cleaning tools -
> complicated-looking contraptions made of clear plastic that have
> little cogs and brushes, compartments for cleaning fluid, etc. I've
> never used one though - they look too gimmicky. Anyone tried them?
> Swear by or at them?
>
> &roo
>

[Jack Russell]

Swear at They are fiddly and messy, the Sachs type breakable chain is
the way to go.

Jack Russell

> Alternatively, you can get on-bike chain-cleaning tools -
> complicated-looking contraptions made of clear plastic that have
> little cogs and brushes, compartments for cleaning fluid, etc. I've
> never used one though - they look too gimmicky. Anyone tried them?
> Swear by or at them?
>
> &roo
>

[Deep Flayed Mares]

>
> IMHO you need to take it off the bike to clean it properly. This can
> involve using a chain breaker (e.g. on Shimano chains) or simply opening
> a special link by hand (e.g. on Wippermann chains, as I've just learnt
> myself). Once removed, they say the easiest way to clean it is to drop
> it into a Coke bottle, pour in some solvent (I've heard of both kero and
> citrus-based degreaser being used), screw on the cap and shake it up.
>
> Alternatively, you can get on-bike chain-cleaning tools -
> complicated-looking contraptions made of clear plastic that have little
> cogs and brushes, compartments for cleaning fluid, etc. I've never used
> one though - they look too gimmicky. Anyone tried them? Swear by or at
them?
>

OK, here is a chain cleaning technique I heard about from another ng (you
are gonna love this!!!).

Soak your chain in cheap olive oil, and leave it sitting out somewhere like
a shed overnight. Rats will come along and lick it perfectly clean!

Note that I have not tested this out yet, but just loved the idea of it!
---
DFM

[Deep Flayed Mares]

>
> IMHO you need to take it off the bike to clean it properly. This can
> involve using a chain breaker (e.g. on Shimano chains) or simply opening
> a special link by hand (e.g. on Wippermann chains, as I've just learnt
> myself). Once removed, they say the easiest way to clean it is to drop
> it into a Coke bottle, pour in some solvent (I've heard of both kero and
> citrus-based degreaser being used), screw on the cap and shake it up.
>
> Alternatively, you can get on-bike chain-cleaning tools -
> complicated-looking contraptions made of clear plastic that have little
> cogs and brushes, compartments for cleaning fluid, etc. I've never used
> one though - they look too gimmicky. Anyone tried them? Swear by or at
them?
>

OK, here is a chain cleaning technique I heard about from another ng (you
are gonna love this!!!).

Soak your chain in cheap olive oil, and leave it sitting out somewhere like
a shed overnight. Rats will come along and lick it perfectly clean!

Note that I have not tested this out yet, but just loved the idea of it!
---
DFM