Anyone got anything to say about shimano's 540 wheelset?

[Paulus]

I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they bulletproof
(or otherwise tough).

Ta
1992 Giant Kronos
1990 Dodsun TriAction
1987 Repco Traveller
1980 Raleigh Yukon

[amirm]

Paulus wrote:
> I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
> tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they
> bulletproof (or otherwise tough).
> Ta 1992 Giant Kronos 1990 Dodsun TriAction 1987 Repco Traveller 1980
> Raleigh Yukon

I have a pair of these wheels. They've done just over 1000 km. They came
with my recent bike that I bought mid-July. I also have a pair of
WH-R535 on my other bike. Shimano claims the R540 is lighter (I think
150 gm per pair) than the R535. Also they claim that the lateral
rigidity is up 20% and the hub mechanism is improved.

Comparing the two, I can say that the R540 wheels stay true longer than
R535. The hub operation seems to be smoother as it has a lot less hum
when free-spinning. However, R540 rear wheels have become famous for
their hoolahooping. Mine does it. Also it makes a clicking noise at the
same spot per rotation at speeds roughly faster than 25 kmh. Anyone else
have this problem? It happens only when the wheel is spinning freely
(not under pedalling load).





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[amirm]

Paulus wrote:
> I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
> tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they
> bulletproof (or otherwise tough).
> Ta 1992 Giant Kronos 1990 Dodsun TriAction 1987 Repco Traveller 1980
> Raleigh Yukon

I have a pair of these wheels. They've done just over 1000 km. They came
with my recent bike that I bought mid-July. I also have a pair of
WH-R535 on my other bike. Shimano claims the R540 is lighter (I think
150 gm per pair) than the R535. Also they claim that the lateral
rigidity is up 20% and the hub mechanism is improved.

Comparing the two, I can say that the R540 wheels stay true longer than
R535. The hub operation seems to be smoother as it has a lot less hum
when free-spinning. However, R540 rear wheels have become famous for
their hoolahooping. Mine does it. Also it makes a clicking noise at the
same spot per rotation at speeds roughly faster than 25 kmh. Anyone else
have this problem? It happens only when the wheel is spinning freely
(not under pedalling load).





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[Shabby]

Paulus wrote:
> I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
> tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they
> bulletproof (or otherwise tough).



I've got the 535's, which I use as training wheels. I've had them for
about a year, probably doing an average of 150km per week. I ride from
Sth Melb to Footscray, along some of the worst roads and bike paths
imagineable.

I broke a spoke last week on my way home. When you lose a spoke, the rim
buckles pretty badly (we're talking undo the brake cable, not just
loosen it). Also, the nipple is on the hub, so after I pulled the spoke
out, the nipple which was still there got jammed and turned my wheel
into a fixed wheel. So it was a slow trip home, to say the least.

The rims are pretty bulletproof, as once I got a new spoke (for the
bargain price of $12) it pulled right back into line again.

I guess I'm moderately happy with the wheels, but can't help think that
a 36 spoke training wheel would have suited me better. I've only ever
broken spokes before when there was mechanical damage on the spokes from
where my deraileur failed.

These wheels look like race wheels, but the rims are pretty heavy, which
makes up for any reduction in spokes. They are a good talking point
though (everyone who comes inot my office makes some sort of comment).

Also, there's a big chance for problems if your brakes hit the spokes,
which could happen if they are misaligned.



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[Shabby]

Paulus wrote:
> I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
> tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they
> bulletproof (or otherwise tough).



I've got the 535's, which I use as training wheels. I've had them for
about a year, probably doing an average of 150km per week. I ride from
Sth Melb to Footscray, along some of the worst roads and bike paths
imagineable.

I broke a spoke last week on my way home. When you lose a spoke, the rim
buckles pretty badly (we're talking undo the brake cable, not just
loosen it). Also, the nipple is on the hub, so after I pulled the spoke
out, the nipple which was still there got jammed and turned my wheel
into a fixed wheel. So it was a slow trip home, to say the least.

The rims are pretty bulletproof, as once I got a new spoke (for the
bargain price of $12) it pulled right back into line again.

I guess I'm moderately happy with the wheels, but can't help think that
a 36 spoke training wheel would have suited me better. I've only ever
broken spokes before when there was mechanical damage on the spokes from
where my deraileur failed.

These wheels look like race wheels, but the rims are pretty heavy, which
makes up for any reduction in spokes. They are a good talking point
though (everyone who comes inot my office makes some sort of comment).

Also, there's a big chance for problems if your brakes hit the spokes,
which could happen if they are misaligned.



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[JAF]

Hi Paulus,

The Shimano WHR-540 wheels came standard on the Avanti road bike i
bought about 2-3 months ago. I have so far done about 1200-1300km on
them and haven't had any problems. I am about 6"3 and weigh 110kgs so
i wasn't sure if the wheels would be able to cope, but so far I am
quite happy.

I only do recreational riding on the road (although some of the roads
are pretty average where I live- Berwick, 50k S.E of Melb) and don't do
any racing etc on them.

Anyway good luck on what you choose, James
:)



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[JAF]

Hi Paulus,

The Shimano WHR-540 wheels came standard on the Avanti road bike i
bought about 2-3 months ago. I have so far done about 1200-1300km on
them and haven't had any problems. I am about 6"3 and weigh 110kgs so
i wasn't sure if the wheels would be able to cope, but so far I am
quite happy.

I only do recreational riding on the road (although some of the roads
are pretty average where I live- Berwick, 50k S.E of Melb) and don't do
any racing etc on them.

Anyway good luck on what you choose, James
:)



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[rickster]

"Paulus" > wrote in message >...
> I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
> tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they bulletproof
> (or otherwise tough).
>


They look flash, but these wheels are a pile of el cheapo crap, heavy,
under spoked poo. Avoid them. I see them sneaking in on stacks of
bikes now adays. For the same price, get some wheels built on 105
hubs, 32 spokes, and since you say you tend to breaks spokes, get rims
with eyelets.

[rickster]

"Paulus" > wrote in message >...
> I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
> tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they bulletproof
> (or otherwise tough).
>


They look flash, but these wheels are a pile of el cheapo crap, heavy,
under spoked poo. Avoid them. I see them sneaking in on stacks of
bikes now adays. For the same price, get some wheels built on 105
hubs, 32 spokes, and since you say you tend to breaks spokes, get rims
with eyelets.

[Cletus75]

Rickster wrote:
> "Paulus" > wrote in message
> >...
> > I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy.
> > I tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they
> > bulletproof (or otherwise tough).
> >
> They look flash, but these wheels are a pile of el cheapo crap, heavy,
> under spoked poo. Avoid them. I see them sneaking in on stacks of
> bikes now adays. For the same price, get some wheels built on 105
> hubs, 32 spokes, and since you say you tend to breaks spokes, get rims
> with eyelets.



Similar to JAF, I got them as standard on an Avanti I bought six weeks
ago (I note that they're now on many of the 2004 Giants now as well). I
was a bit nervous about truing, but the LBS recommended them heartily.
I've probably only done 600km on them so far, but I've hit my fair share
of potholes when not paying attention and they've stacked up just fine
to date (knock on wood).

I used to have a Kronos myself, that I've had since the early 90's and
its wheels would definitely have required truing if I had hit the same
holes I have with this. Marvellous how far wheel design has
progressed...



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[Cletus75]

Rickster wrote:
> "Paulus" > wrote in message
> >...
> > I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy.
> > I tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they
> > bulletproof (or otherwise tough).
> >
> They look flash, but these wheels are a pile of el cheapo crap, heavy,
> under spoked poo. Avoid them. I see them sneaking in on stacks of
> bikes now adays. For the same price, get some wheels built on 105
> hubs, 32 spokes, and since you say you tend to breaks spokes, get rims
> with eyelets.



Similar to JAF, I got them as standard on an Avanti I bought six weeks
ago (I note that they're now on many of the 2004 Giants now as well). I
was a bit nervous about truing, but the LBS recommended them heartily.
I've probably only done 600km on them so far, but I've hit my fair share
of potholes when not paying attention and they've stacked up just fine
to date (knock on wood).

I used to have a Kronos myself, that I've had since the early 90's and
its wheels would definitely have required truing if I had hit the same
holes I have with this. Marvellous how far wheel design has
progressed...



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[amirm]

enock wrote:
> I've had the 540's for over 18 months now - do 150-250 km a week, weigh
> 95 kg - broke my first rear spoke last week - this was telegraphed by
> what would be described as a creaking/tinkling sound. When the spoke
> goes the wheel goes immediately into warp and you are walking - no
> letting off the breaks. Happy with the wheel strong responsive feel.

Enock:

If you read my post above (the first response), you'll see that I was
complaining about a ticking (can also say creaking) that comes only when
the rear wheel is spinning freely (when pedalling, there's no sound).
This couldn't be the sign that a spoke is going, could it? Firstly, it
started making this noise from the first week (it's gone about 1200 km
so far). Secondly, the noise is not coming when pedalling.

Do you think it's a spoke problem or something is wrong with the free
hub?

Cheers.




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[amirm]

enock wrote:
> I've had the 540's for over 18 months now - do 150-250 km a week, weigh
> 95 kg - broke my first rear spoke last week - this was telegraphed by
> what would be described as a creaking/tinkling sound. When the spoke
> goes the wheel goes immediately into warp and you are walking - no
> letting off the breaks. Happy with the wheel strong responsive feel.

Enock:

If you read my post above (the first response), you'll see that I was
complaining about a ticking (can also say creaking) that comes only when
the rear wheel is spinning freely (when pedalling, there's no sound).
This couldn't be the sign that a spoke is going, could it? Firstly, it
started making this noise from the first week (it's gone about 1200 km
so far). Secondly, the noise is not coming when pedalling.

Do you think it's a spoke problem or something is wrong with the free
hub?

Cheers.




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[Shabby]

enock wrote:
> I've had the 540's for over 18 months now - do 150-250 km a week, weigh
> 95 kg - broke my first rear spoke last week - this was telegraphed by
> what would be described as a creaking/tinkling sound. When the spoke
> goes the wheel goes immediately into warp and you are walking - no
> letting off the breaks. Happy with the wheel strong responsive feel.



Enock, you're a bit soft! Next time, undo the brake cable (with an allen
key) and carefully ride to your nearest bike shop or train station.

Of course, the fact that you have to take the cluster off to loosen off
spokes means that you can't just loosen the corresponding spoke on the
other side, unless you carry a cluster tool......



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[Shabby]

enock wrote:
> I've had the 540's for over 18 months now - do 150-250 km a week, weigh
> 95 kg - broke my first rear spoke last week - this was telegraphed by
> what would be described as a creaking/tinkling sound. When the spoke
> goes the wheel goes immediately into warp and you are walking - no
> letting off the breaks. Happy with the wheel strong responsive feel.



Enock, you're a bit soft! Next time, undo the brake cable (with an allen
key) and carefully ride to your nearest bike shop or train station.

Of course, the fact that you have to take the cluster off to loosen off
spokes means that you can't just loosen the corresponding spoke on the
other side, unless you carry a cluster tool......



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[Paulus]

Thanks for your comments. My brother just got himself a TCR2 with the 540's
so I'll have some feedback from him soon.

Paul

[Paulus]

Thanks for your comments. My brother just got himself a TCR2 with the 540's
so I'll have some feedback from him soon.

Paul

[hippy]

"amirm" > wrote in message
...
> If you read my post above (the first response), you'll see that I was
> complaining about a ticking (can also say creaking) that comes only when
> the rear wheel is spinning freely (when pedalling, there's no sound).

Well unless the pedaling is drowning out the sound then the
most likely cause is probably the freehub ratchet mechanism.
Of course, as with all bike noise issues, logic plays no part
so start by checking your valve caps for incorrect tension
and then check your rear red flashing light for LED
"overvolting". ;)
Seriously though, it sounds like a freehub issue. Pedal
very softly to make sure you are not simply drowning
out the noise and then inspect the freehub.
Maybe spray some WD40 into it to loosen any crud?

hippy

[hippy]

"amirm" > wrote in message
...
> If you read my post above (the first response), you'll see that I was
> complaining about a ticking (can also say creaking) that comes only when
> the rear wheel is spinning freely (when pedalling, there's no sound).

Well unless the pedaling is drowning out the sound then the
most likely cause is probably the freehub ratchet mechanism.
Of course, as with all bike noise issues, logic plays no part
so start by checking your valve caps for incorrect tension
and then check your rear red flashing light for LED
"overvolting". ;)
Seriously though, it sounds like a freehub issue. Pedal
very softly to make sure you are not simply drowning
out the noise and then inspect the freehub.
Maybe spray some WD40 into it to loosen any crud?

hippy

[enock]

amirm wrote:
> Enock:
> If you read my post above (the first response), you'll see that I was
> complaining about a ticking (can also say creaking) that comes only when
> the rear wheel is spinning freely (when pedalling, there's no sound).
> This couldn't be the sign that a spoke is going, could it? Firstly, it
> started making this noise from the first week (it's gone about 1200 km
> so far). Secondly, the noise is not coming when pedalling.
> Do you think it's a spoke problem or something is wrong with the free
> hub?
> Cheers.



The wheel started ticking about 500km ago - after the broken spoke was
repaired and the rest of the wheel trued it no longer makes the noise. I
got the sound only when putting power into the wheel ie standing going
up hills - spinning freely - no noticable noise thus I think it's a
spoke problem.



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[enock]

amirm wrote:
> Enock:
> If you read my post above (the first response), you'll see that I was
> complaining about a ticking (can also say creaking) that comes only when
> the rear wheel is spinning freely (when pedalling, there's no sound).
> This couldn't be the sign that a spoke is going, could it? Firstly, it
> started making this noise from the first week (it's gone about 1200 km
> so far). Secondly, the noise is not coming when pedalling.
> Do you think it's a spoke problem or something is wrong with the free
> hub?
> Cheers.



The wheel started ticking about 500km ago - after the broken spoke was
repaired and the rest of the wheel trued it no longer makes the noise. I
got the sound only when putting power into the wheel ie standing going
up hills - spinning freely - no noticable noise thus I think it's a
spoke problem.



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