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dannyfrankszzz
June 16th 04, 06:10 PM
I'm changing from a set of suspension forks to a set of rigid forks; for
more response and speed.

I know that I'm going to have to cut the steerer down to size and change
the brake calipers over.

However, I don't really have any clue about the headset.

Is this a big job that's beyond an amateur mechanic like me or would I
be best advised to leave it to the experts?

Thanks, Danny.



--

Paul - xxx
June 16th 04, 06:33 PM
dannyfrankszzz posted:
> I'm changing from a set of suspension forks to a set of rigid forks; for
> more response and speed.
>
> I know that I'm going to have to cut the steerer down to size and change
> the brake calipers over.
>
> However, I don't really have any clue about the headset.
>
> Is this a big job that's beyond an amateur mechanic like me or would I
> be best advised to leave it to the experts?
>
> Thanks, Danny.

Having done this the other way, gone from a threaded steerer on rigid forks,
to an A-head set non-threaded suspension fork, I can confirm that it's a
dead easy job .. ;)

The hardest part is keeping the cut perpendicular and straight. Once you've
measured, measure again, then check it and get someone else to have a look
... ;) Use a decent hacksaw blade and a decent vice or make sure the tube's
well-clamped so it doesn't spin as you cut. If you're worried about cutting
it, take the fork or steerer tube, suitably marked, to any local engineering
shop / corner garage / local bike shop, and they'll do a good job cutting it
for you. I saw a Decathlon 'technician' cut one with a junior hacksaw, and
make a fair job of it ..

--
Paul ...

(8(|) ... Homer Rocks

Tony Raven
June 16th 04, 06:38 PM
dannyfrankszzz wrote:
> I'm changing from a set of suspension forks to a set of rigid forks; for
> more response and speed.
>
> I know that I'm going to have to cut the steerer down to size and change
> the brake calipers over.
>
> However, I don't really have any clue about the headset.
>
> Is this a big job that's beyond an amateur mechanic like me or would I
> be best advised to leave it to the experts?
>
> Thanks, Danny.

No need to cut the steerer down to size if you use an aheadset headset. Just
put spacers above and below to get the right bar height. As for fitting the
headset, if you feel confident about your mechanical skills it can be done as
a home job but you need to have a reasonable feel for what you are doing. The
two key tasks are pressing in the headset cups and bedding the crown race down
on the forks. These are both tight fits and they have an unerring tendency to
want to twist off square. You can make up an improvised press with some
threaded rod and washers or a bit of wood and mallet. If you can borrow a
proper headset press its much easier. Without the proper press its a slow job
of slowly easing the cups in and tapping them to resquare them as they start
to twist.

Only you can gauge whether you feel up to that.

Tony

Pete Biggs
June 16th 04, 06:53 PM
dannyfrankszzz wrote:
> I'm changing from a set of suspension forks to a set of rigid forks;
> for more response and speed.
>
> I know that I'm going to have to cut the steerer down to size

You could do that yourself with a hacksaw. Always allow a little more
length than you think you need! ...In fact loads more to begin with, then
recut.

> and change the brake calipers over.
>
> However, I don't really have any clue about the headset.
>
> Is this a big job that's beyond an amateur mechanic like me or would I
> be best advised to leave it to the experts?

Fitting the head tube cups is the trickiest bit. Best done with proper
(expensive) tools*. It is possible with home-made tools or bodges but I
personally wouldn't recommend it: unpleasant and there's a chance you
might make a knackeration of it. Others will strongly disagree with me.
Fork crown race is also not easy, IMO.

Lower half of your current headset could be reused if you like, by the
way. That doesn't know what's at the top of the steerer tube.

info:
url:http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml#headset

* Worth investing in if you like being self-sufficient and expect to fit a
few headsets in your lifetime. Cyclus stuff is great value. Need headcup
& crown race removal and fitting tools.

~PB

Pete Biggs
June 16th 04, 07:01 PM
Tony Raven wrote:
> No need to cut the steerer down to size if you use an aheadset
> headset. Just put spacers above and below to get the right bar
> height.

New threadless forks are often supplied with 300mm steerers. One of those
might be a bit funny in a small frame!

~PB

Tony Raven
June 16th 04, 07:40 PM
Pete Biggs wrote:
> Tony Raven wrote:
>> No need to cut the steerer down to size if you use an aheadset
>> headset. Just put spacers above and below to get the right bar
>> height.
>
> New threadless forks are often supplied with 300mm steerers. One of those
> might be a bit funny in a small frame!
>
> ~PB

True and once you are sure maybe cut the excess off but I've seen it too many
times where people cut the steerer and then later wish they'd cut it longer
(and sometimes made a mistake and cut it too short for what they intended)

Tony

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