Chains and Cassettes

[Doki]

Currently got a Sach's / SRAM 8 speed cassette on the back of my bike, and a
knackered no name chain. No amount of adjustment is fixing the downshifts,
so I reckon it's time to replace both. Am I correct in thinking SRAM gear is
longer lasting than Shimano? Am I going to need a chain tool to get the new
chain on? Are the more expensive chains more durable or lighter or what?

[NC]

Doki wrote:
> Currently got a Sach's / SRAM 8 speed cassette on the back of my
> bike, and a knackered no name chain. No amount of adjustment is
> fixing the downshifts, so I reckon it's time to replace both. Am I
> correct in thinking SRAM gear is longer lasting than Shimano? Am I
> going to need a chain tool to get the new chain on? Are the more
> expensive chains more durable or lighter or what?

Couldn't say which chains/cogs last the best (still using the nice 7speed
Sachs Aris screw-on hub on my main road-tourer...).

Chains - Sachs PC-series chains include a "powerlink" which can be closed by
hand, and opened without a chain tool (though I find it needs a pair of
pliers).
I believe that Shimano chains need a chain tool and the appropriate link
pins.


You'll need a chainwhip to remove the old cassette. If you don't want to
purchase one, they can easily be made using a bit of old cycle chain and an
approx 18inch length of rectangular mild-steel bar. Drill a hole near the
edge of the bar, about 4in from one end. Attach the chain to this hold
(which does need a chain tool, or hammer and drift).



--
NC - Webmaster for http://www.2mm.org.uk/
Replies to newsgroup postings to the newsgroup please.

[Pete Biggs]

Doki wrote:
> Currently got a Sach's / SRAM 8 speed cassette on the back of my
> bike, and a knackered no name chain. No amount of adjustment is
> fixing the downshifts, so I reckon it's time to replace both.

Knackered chains and cassettes still usually shift ok so I expect
something else is wrong as well.

> Am I
> correct in thinking SRAM gear is longer lasting than Shimano?

Dunno.

> Am I going to need a chain tool to get the new chain on?

The same ordinary decent tool will get old one off and new one on.

> Are the more
> expensive chains more durable or lighter or what?

Durabilty is debateable. With SRAM, mostly the more expensive ones just
look nicer. Only a few of the top end ones save (a small amount of)
weight by using hollow pins or slots in the plates. SRAM PC58 is a good
middling one to go for, IMO.

~PB

[Pete Biggs]

NC wrote:

> .....PC-series chains include a "powerlink" which can be
> closed by hand, and opened without a chain tool.......

Note: Tool is still required to shorten the chain to the required length
in the first place.

SRAM Powerlinks can be used with Shimano chains too -- even though SRAM &
Shimano don't recommend it.

~PB

[Doki]

Pete Biggs wrote:
> Doki wrote:
>> Currently got a Sach's / SRAM 8 speed cassette on the back of my
>> bike, and a knackered no name chain. No amount of adjustment is
>> fixing the downshifts, so I reckon it's time to replace both.
>
> Knackered chains and cassettes still usually shift ok so I expect
> something else is wrong as well.

I've just been and had a look, and it seems to be shifting relatively well
now, not instantaneous, more like a couple of turns of the pedals. Perhaps
I'm expecting too? I think I'll wait until it dies to put on a new chain and
cassette.

>> Are the more
>> expensive chains more durable or lighter or what?
>
> Durabilty is debateable. With SRAM, mostly the more expensive ones
> just look nicer. Only a few of the top end ones save (a small amount
> of) weight by using hollow pins or slots in the plates. SRAM PC58 is
> a good middling one to go for, IMO.

Cheap too :).

[injuryprone]

Pete Biggs wrote:
> Knackered chains and cassettes still usually shift ok so I expect
> something else is wrong as well.

I was complaining to my ride partner that my shifts were rather
intermittent and unreliable and sometimes it would shift without being
asked!!!

Few miles later, strutting my stuff up a 1 in 6, my chain snaps.

I'm sure there is a link (ooh thats a bad pun).

Regards,
Mark

[davek]

Pete Biggs:
> Note: Tool is still required to shorten the chain to the required length
> in the first place.

Yes, indeed - assuming the chain is long enough in the first place. My new
SRAM chain I fitted recently was actually a link shorter than the chain it
replaced! This made no practical difference but it was slightly
disconcerting as I had been expecting to have to shorten the new chain.

> SRAM Powerlinks can be used with Shimano chains too -- even though SRAM &
> Shimano don't recommend it.

Is there any genuine concern for compatibility behind this recommendation,
or is it purely commercial? I know which way I'd bet if I had to put money
on it...

d.

[Pete Biggs]

davek wrote:
>> SRAM Powerlinks can be used with Shimano chains too -- even though
>> SRAM & Shimano don't recommend it.
>
> Is there any genuine concern for compatibility behind this
> recommendation, or is it purely commercial? I know which way I'd bet
> if I had to put money on it...

I'd say it's probably the usual case of over-caution from the makers. But
there could be some genuine concern behind it because chain widths and
shapes vary slightly even when the "speed" is the same. Fair enough,
busting a chain is potentially very serious.

I've used a Sachs 8sp Powerlink with a HGwhateveritwas with no problems at
all, same with a SRAM 9sp Powerlink with Campag 9sp chain, and I've read
of many cases of Powerlinks working "fine" with $himaNO 9sp chain. Just
the occasional complaint is posted about them being noisy or something but
you always get a few wild 'n' weird reports about every component.

~PB

[james]

"Pete Biggs" > wrote in message >...
> davek wrote:
> >> SRAM Powerlinks can be used with Shimano chains too -- even though
> >> SRAM & Shimano don't recommend it.
> >
> > Is there any genuine concern for compatibility behind this
> > recommendation, or is it purely commercial? I know which way I'd bet
> > if I had to put money on it...
>
> I'd say it's probably the usual case of over-caution from the makers. But
> there could be some genuine concern behind it because chain widths and
> shapes vary slightly even when the "speed" is the same. Fair enough,
> busting a chain is potentially very serious.
>
> I've used a Sachs 8sp Powerlink with a HGwhateveritwas with no problems at
> all, same with a SRAM 9sp Powerlink with Campag 9sp chain, and I've read
> of many cases of Powerlinks working "fine" with $himaNO 9sp chain.

I have used a 9spd powerlink with a HGmumble chain (also 9spd). I
started to do this after having (broken link) problems from splitting
and rejoining a 9spd shimano chain without using the insert you are
supposed to (didn't realise there was one at the time). Now I just
use sram chains

best wishes