Ken Roberts
September 20th 04, 10:30 PM
I've gotten started on one of the great adventures of bicycling: Riding from
the Mediterranean sea to Lac Leman / Geneva, south to north over the great
passes of the Alps. So far I've finished from Guillestre (south of Briancon)
to Lanslebourg (in the Maurienne valley) -- which is roughly the _middle_
section of the route from sea to lake. How does that fit?
"incorrect" --
My approach is to accomplish this in separate sections over several years.
And for many of those great mountain passes (called "cols"), to ride over
the high col as part of single-day loop route -- just like how lots of local
French and Italian cyclists normally do their rides.
I'm loving it so far -- hope I can find a way to get back there next year to
do more sections. It is true that I don't get the accomplishment of one
giant two-week commitment, but I'm finding plenty of adventure and beauty
and satisfaction in the four single-day sections I've done so far -- see
details below.
I did this riding on my Bike Friday Project Q -- which can be assembled as
either a tandem or a single bike. And can be dis-assembled to fit into
normal suitcases for airline travel. On this trip I flew from the USA to
Paris with the suitcases and first assembled it as a tandem for a few days
of gentle-moderate riding together with Sharon. Then she flew home with the
tandem-specific parts, and I had a few extra vacation days available, so I
re-assembled the Project Q as a single bike and headed for the mountains.
Assembly takes some time and some learning curve, but it sure has been worth
it to be able to plan a trip to Europe and know that we -- and I -- will
have a good bike when we get there.
My secret to enjoying the great Cols of France: very very low gears.
Ken
____________________________________
Details
Loop sections I did last week:
- - Col d'Izoard as a loop from the city of Briancon south along mostly the
west side of the Durance river, with lots of big views east and south across
the valley and glimpses west into the snow-capped peaks of the Ecrins
National Park (and one climb on the D38 tougher than anything on the famous
Col). Then cross to Guillestre, and climb up thru the Queyras mountains,
first thru a steep-walled river gorge and up to the south "high desert" side
of the Col d'Izoard, then down the north side back down into Briancon. And I
discovered that I could be guided thru the entire loop by yellow arrows
painted on the road with label "EM" (? Embrun Man ?)
- - Col du Montgenevre as a loop with the city of Briancon with Col de
l'Echelle -- steep climb getting north out of town, up well-designed
switchbacks with big views back to the ancient fortress and mountains, over
the Col de Montgenevre east-bound into Italy, with an exciting descent
mostly on new smooth pavement with big views down to Cesana Torinese, then
more moderate downhill on new pavement to Oulx. Moderate climb to
Bardonecchia, then some steep switchbacks going west back into France and
over Col de l'Echelle, with 2 km thru rocky crags up high before a shorter
descent to a gentle section of the Vallee de la Claree, and I enjoyed the
low-key village of Nevache, then a long moderate descent south to the main
road, and more views down back to Briancon. Even though this is a major
road, on a mid-week day in September I was only passed by one car (and one
bike) on the whole descent to Cesana.
Missed loop opportunity:
- - Col du Mont Cenis: I started from Susa, Italy and felt real good and
strong climbing up this big one (something 1500 meters / 5000 ft), road
well designed. Up high it was wonderful to ride along the big beautiful blue
Lac du Mont Cenis and look north to snow in the Vanoise. My intent was to
do just the south side as an out-and-back day, but then at the top a French
rider caught me -- and talked me into descending the other side into France
for a snack with him in Lanslebourg. Over coffee, I think I understood him
(in my limited comprehension of French) to say that he was doing a loop
tour: He had parked his car in Modane (north side in France), and taken his
bike on the bus thru the big tunnel to Bardonecchia (south side in Italy),
rode to Susa, and then climbed over the Col du Mont Cenis back to France.
Wish I could of thought of that? Instead I had to climb up to the Col again
and go back over it south-bound. Onerous until I had the joy of big high
lake again -- then down thousands of vertical feet of wonderful smooth
pavement on the Italian side back to my car parked in Susa.
Horrible road loop (? or big "mountain bike" adventure ?):
- - Sestriere to Susa (all in Italy) as a loop, starting from Cesana and
returning thru Oulx. Bad idea.
I started with the climb up to Sestreire from Cesana Torinese -- has a long
gentle traverse in its middle with great views -- I'll happily do that again
sometime. (Question: what is the "notorious" Sestriere climb? is it from the
east side?).
Next my map showed a "high route" to Susa across the Testa dell'Assiette and
Colle delle Finestre. I figured it would have great views from along the top
of the ridge. And it did have great views. But it was all a dirt road. With
rocks. With climbs and descents. For a while it was an interesting challenge
and variation trying it on my narrow-tire road bike with no suspension. But
there was altogether too much of it -- like around 50 km / 30 miles on dirt.
My arms and butt were hammered by the constant bouncing on the rocks. I'm
glad I had only to fix one flat tire along the way.
I encountered a few motorcycles up there, and then to my surprise coming the
other way another bicycle with panniers loaded for a multi-day tour. The
rider spoke excellent English to me. He had started his randonnee from
Geneva, and he thought he'd try this road because it looked more
interesting, but it was very hard and he doubted I would make it to Susa
that day. I thought I understand him to say that he had left Susa the day
before. I did not ask him where or how he had spent the night out.
After I crossed the Colle delle Finestre and started down to Susa and
understand how it had taken him more than a day. I could not believe how
long I kept going down on dirt with rocks. Finally I reached pavement, but
still an amazing number of tight switchbacks to Meana, and still more down
on normal wide road to Susa. It was scary to think of that other rider
climbing up all that on a loaded touring bike.
Next time I would follow that French rider's idea of using a bus ride to
make a loop between the Lanslebourg and Modane in the Maurienne valley and
Oulx and Susa in Italy -- which neatly overlaps with my Briancon -
Montgenevre - Bardonecchia - Nevache loop. Optionally add the beautiful
climb to Sestriere as an out-and-back side trip.
Galibier versus Mont Cenis -- big route decision: My opinion now is that
for doing the Alps sea-to-lake randonnee north-bound, I like Montgenevre +
Susa + Mont Cenis better than Lauteret + Galibier + St Michel de Maurienne,
as a route from Briancon to the Maurienne valley. Because the gentler
section on higher-traffic road is taken in general downhill direction
(Cesana to Susa), instead of two long sections on higher-traffic roads taken
uphill (Briancon to Lauteret, and then St Michel de Marienne to
Lanslebourg). And while Galibier crossing has spectacular mountains, the big
high lake of Mont Cenis is unique for this route. Also Galibier can be done
as part of a separate great randonnee of its own, a loop with Col de la
Croix de Fer and Bourg d'Oisans (and optionally l'Alpe d'Huez).
_____________________________________
the Mediterranean sea to Lac Leman / Geneva, south to north over the great
passes of the Alps. So far I've finished from Guillestre (south of Briancon)
to Lanslebourg (in the Maurienne valley) -- which is roughly the _middle_
section of the route from sea to lake. How does that fit?
"incorrect" --
My approach is to accomplish this in separate sections over several years.
And for many of those great mountain passes (called "cols"), to ride over
the high col as part of single-day loop route -- just like how lots of local
French and Italian cyclists normally do their rides.
I'm loving it so far -- hope I can find a way to get back there next year to
do more sections. It is true that I don't get the accomplishment of one
giant two-week commitment, but I'm finding plenty of adventure and beauty
and satisfaction in the four single-day sections I've done so far -- see
details below.
I did this riding on my Bike Friday Project Q -- which can be assembled as
either a tandem or a single bike. And can be dis-assembled to fit into
normal suitcases for airline travel. On this trip I flew from the USA to
Paris with the suitcases and first assembled it as a tandem for a few days
of gentle-moderate riding together with Sharon. Then she flew home with the
tandem-specific parts, and I had a few extra vacation days available, so I
re-assembled the Project Q as a single bike and headed for the mountains.
Assembly takes some time and some learning curve, but it sure has been worth
it to be able to plan a trip to Europe and know that we -- and I -- will
have a good bike when we get there.
My secret to enjoying the great Cols of France: very very low gears.
Ken
____________________________________
Details
Loop sections I did last week:
- - Col d'Izoard as a loop from the city of Briancon south along mostly the
west side of the Durance river, with lots of big views east and south across
the valley and glimpses west into the snow-capped peaks of the Ecrins
National Park (and one climb on the D38 tougher than anything on the famous
Col). Then cross to Guillestre, and climb up thru the Queyras mountains,
first thru a steep-walled river gorge and up to the south "high desert" side
of the Col d'Izoard, then down the north side back down into Briancon. And I
discovered that I could be guided thru the entire loop by yellow arrows
painted on the road with label "EM" (? Embrun Man ?)
- - Col du Montgenevre as a loop with the city of Briancon with Col de
l'Echelle -- steep climb getting north out of town, up well-designed
switchbacks with big views back to the ancient fortress and mountains, over
the Col de Montgenevre east-bound into Italy, with an exciting descent
mostly on new smooth pavement with big views down to Cesana Torinese, then
more moderate downhill on new pavement to Oulx. Moderate climb to
Bardonecchia, then some steep switchbacks going west back into France and
over Col de l'Echelle, with 2 km thru rocky crags up high before a shorter
descent to a gentle section of the Vallee de la Claree, and I enjoyed the
low-key village of Nevache, then a long moderate descent south to the main
road, and more views down back to Briancon. Even though this is a major
road, on a mid-week day in September I was only passed by one car (and one
bike) on the whole descent to Cesana.
Missed loop opportunity:
- - Col du Mont Cenis: I started from Susa, Italy and felt real good and
strong climbing up this big one (something 1500 meters / 5000 ft), road
well designed. Up high it was wonderful to ride along the big beautiful blue
Lac du Mont Cenis and look north to snow in the Vanoise. My intent was to
do just the south side as an out-and-back day, but then at the top a French
rider caught me -- and talked me into descending the other side into France
for a snack with him in Lanslebourg. Over coffee, I think I understood him
(in my limited comprehension of French) to say that he was doing a loop
tour: He had parked his car in Modane (north side in France), and taken his
bike on the bus thru the big tunnel to Bardonecchia (south side in Italy),
rode to Susa, and then climbed over the Col du Mont Cenis back to France.
Wish I could of thought of that? Instead I had to climb up to the Col again
and go back over it south-bound. Onerous until I had the joy of big high
lake again -- then down thousands of vertical feet of wonderful smooth
pavement on the Italian side back to my car parked in Susa.
Horrible road loop (? or big "mountain bike" adventure ?):
- - Sestriere to Susa (all in Italy) as a loop, starting from Cesana and
returning thru Oulx. Bad idea.
I started with the climb up to Sestreire from Cesana Torinese -- has a long
gentle traverse in its middle with great views -- I'll happily do that again
sometime. (Question: what is the "notorious" Sestriere climb? is it from the
east side?).
Next my map showed a "high route" to Susa across the Testa dell'Assiette and
Colle delle Finestre. I figured it would have great views from along the top
of the ridge. And it did have great views. But it was all a dirt road. With
rocks. With climbs and descents. For a while it was an interesting challenge
and variation trying it on my narrow-tire road bike with no suspension. But
there was altogether too much of it -- like around 50 km / 30 miles on dirt.
My arms and butt were hammered by the constant bouncing on the rocks. I'm
glad I had only to fix one flat tire along the way.
I encountered a few motorcycles up there, and then to my surprise coming the
other way another bicycle with panniers loaded for a multi-day tour. The
rider spoke excellent English to me. He had started his randonnee from
Geneva, and he thought he'd try this road because it looked more
interesting, but it was very hard and he doubted I would make it to Susa
that day. I thought I understand him to say that he had left Susa the day
before. I did not ask him where or how he had spent the night out.
After I crossed the Colle delle Finestre and started down to Susa and
understand how it had taken him more than a day. I could not believe how
long I kept going down on dirt with rocks. Finally I reached pavement, but
still an amazing number of tight switchbacks to Meana, and still more down
on normal wide road to Susa. It was scary to think of that other rider
climbing up all that on a loaded touring bike.
Next time I would follow that French rider's idea of using a bus ride to
make a loop between the Lanslebourg and Modane in the Maurienne valley and
Oulx and Susa in Italy -- which neatly overlaps with my Briancon -
Montgenevre - Bardonecchia - Nevache loop. Optionally add the beautiful
climb to Sestriere as an out-and-back side trip.
Galibier versus Mont Cenis -- big route decision: My opinion now is that
for doing the Alps sea-to-lake randonnee north-bound, I like Montgenevre +
Susa + Mont Cenis better than Lauteret + Galibier + St Michel de Maurienne,
as a route from Briancon to the Maurienne valley. Because the gentler
section on higher-traffic road is taken in general downhill direction
(Cesana to Susa), instead of two long sections on higher-traffic roads taken
uphill (Briancon to Lauteret, and then St Michel de Marienne to
Lanslebourg). And while Galibier crossing has spectacular mountains, the big
high lake of Mont Cenis is unique for this route. Also Galibier can be done
as part of a separate great randonnee of its own, a loop with Col de la
Croix de Fer and Bourg d'Oisans (and optionally l'Alpe d'Huez).
_____________________________________