Newbie Question: online or local shop?

[[email protected]]

I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We have
a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
local shop.

- Joel

[Bill Sornson]

wrote:
> I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
> and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
> I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
> cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We
> have a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
> looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
> something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
> local shop.

You'd really be "rolling the dice" by buying mail order. Go to the shop --
tell them exactly what you want to use the bike for and what you're willing
to spend. If they're snooty or whatever, find a different shop.

Bill "test rides are good" S.

[David L. Johnson]

On Wed, 11 May 2005 19:59:29 -0700, joel wrote:

> I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
> and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
> I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
> cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We have
> a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
> looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
> something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
> local shop.

Buying on-line would be "rolling the dice" unless you knew exactly what
you wanted, which you don't. What size do you need? What special
considerations do you need to take into account due to your weight? (You
may indeed carry it well and be healthy, but most bikes are not made for
riders your size.) What options are there?

Probably, you will be shown either hybrid bikes or mountain bikes.
Mountain bikes are for riding off-road. Unless that is what you want,
avoid them. Hybrid bikes are compromises to ride light off-road trails,
or roads. Probably what you need, but you need to make sure that it can
handle you. Mostly what you need to worry about is the strength of the
wheels -- or at least a shop guarantee behind them. Ask. In person.

Some shops will blow off anyone not racing or not interested in $4000
bikes. You should return the favor, and find a shop that will deal with
you and your needs.

What college town, BTW? Chances are someone here can direct you to a
good shop.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | As far as the laws of mathematics refer to reality, they are not
_`\(,_ | certain, and as far as they are certain, they do not refer to
(_)/ (_) | reality. -- Albert Einstein

[bbaka]

Bill Sornson wrote:
> wrote:
>
>>I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
>>and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
>>I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
>>cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We
>>have a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
>>looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
>>something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
>>local shop.
>
>
> You'd really be "rolling the dice" by buying mail order. Go to the shop --
> tell them exactly what you want to use the bike for and what you're willing
> to spend. If they're snooty or whatever, find a different shop.
>
> Bill "test rides are good" S.
>
>
Good advice. A road bike would be out, as would also anything less than
a solid MTB. Strictly a tire issue here, as I have a friend who is 300+
and the thinner tires will explode before he can get enough pressure in
them to ride the bike. A no suspension bike with the knobbies swapped
out for some street tires (26" x 1.75") should be adequate. And
definitely go to a bike shop with a good reputation. There should be one
or maybe even two in a college town.
Good luck and good riding.
Bill Baka

[Joe Canuck]

wrote:

> I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
> and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
> I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
> cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We have
> a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
> looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
> something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
> local shop.
>
> - Joel
>

You will want a beefy mountain bike rather than a road bike, mainly
because of the stress your size will be imposing on the bike.

Online purchase will not give you the opportunity to road test the bike
or see if you can get a decent fit on it.

Visit more than one bike store.

[Earl Bollinger]

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
> and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
> I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
> cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We have
> a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
> looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
> something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
> local shop.
> - Joel

Go to your local LBS, they have a number of good bikes to choose from,
usually they make pretty good deals too.
You have to know what you really want to buy off the internet, do you know
your correct bike frame size, reach, et cetera?
The LBS puts in things like service and support which you do not get off the
internet.
You'll be looking at the hybrid or comfort bikes which start at nice
inexpensive prices and go up from there.

[Peter Cole]

bbaka wrote:
> Bill Sornson wrote:
>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
>>> and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
>>> I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
>>> cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We
>>> have a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
>>> looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
>>> something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
>>> local shop.
>>
>>
>>
>> You'd really be "rolling the dice" by buying mail order. Go to the
>> shop -- tell them exactly what you want to use the bike for and what
>> you're willing
>> to spend. If they're snooty or whatever, find a different shop.
>>
>> Bill "test rides are good" S.
>>
>>
> Good advice. A road bike would be out, as would also anything less than
> a solid MTB. Strictly a tire issue here, as I have a friend who is 300+
> and the thinner tires will explode before he can get enough pressure in
> them to ride the bike. A no suspension bike with the knobbies swapped
> out for some street tires (26" x 1.75") should be adequate. And
> definitely go to a bike shop with a good reputation. There should be one
> or maybe even two in a college town.
> Good luck and good riding.

This is not true. I was around 255 when I started riding. I used a
standard old road bike (Raleigh Grand Prix). I have ridden many miles on
standard wheels and even 23mm (very narrow) tires.

These days I am a little lighter (230) and I ride with slightly wider
tires (25-28mm). I do this more for comfort than anything else. I have
never broken a wheel or flatted a tire from my weight.

A bike for a heavy rider may need a little more setup attention. Wheels
in particular need to be tweaked. Most wheels come from the factory a
bit too loosely spoked and have a tendency to loosen completely and/or
crack from fatigue with the loads from a heavy rider.

For a bike, I'd recommend a hybrid if you're on a budget, or a touring
bike if you can afford the $600 or so starting prices. If you just want
a "riding around" bike, a mountain bike would be fine. A good bike shop
may be a little more $$, but worth it if they can help you select a good
bike, set it up well for you, and provide service for the inevitable
tweaks and little (hopefully) fixes.

[[email protected]]

I'm from Starkville, MS. We have only one shop in town put the owner
is very nice. There is another in Tupelo (60 miles away) but I've
never been there.

Thanks for all the quick responses!
Joel

David L. Johnson wrote:
> On Wed, 11 May 2005 19:59:29 -0700, joel wrote:
>
> > I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play
racquetball
> > and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio
in.
> > I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
> > cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We
have
> > a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
> > looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I
get
> > something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
> > local shop.
>
> Buying on-line would be "rolling the dice" unless you knew exactly
what
> you wanted, which you don't. What size do you need? What special
> considerations do you need to take into account due to your weight?
(You
> may indeed carry it well and be healthy, but most bikes are not made
for
> riders your size.) What options are there?
>
> Probably, you will be shown either hybrid bikes or mountain bikes.
> Mountain bikes are for riding off-road. Unless that is what you
want,
> avoid them. Hybrid bikes are compromises to ride light off-road
trails,
> or roads. Probably what you need, but you need to make sure that it
can
> handle you. Mostly what you need to worry about is the strength of
the
> wheels -- or at least a shop guarantee behind them. Ask. In person.
>
> Some shops will blow off anyone not racing or not interested in $4000
> bikes. You should return the favor, and find a shop that will deal
with
> you and your needs.
>
> What college town, BTW? Chances are someone here can direct you to a
> good shop.
>
> --
>
> David L. Johnson
>
> __o | As far as the laws of mathematics refer to reality, they
are not
> _`\(,_ | certain, and as far as they are certain, they do not refer
to
> (_)/ (_) | reality. -- Albert Einstein

[Pat Lamb]

bbaka wrote:
>>
> Good advice. A road bike would be out, as would also anything less than
> a solid MTB. Strictly a tire issue here, as I have a friend who is 300+
> and the thinner tires will explode before he can get enough pressure in
> them to ride the bike. A no suspension bike with the knobbies swapped
> out for some street tires (26" x 1.75") should be adequate. And
> definitely go to a bike shop with a good reputation. There should be one
> or maybe even two in a college town.

Funny. I rode my road bike in to work today, with clothes in panniers;
I weigh more than the OP; and the tires didn't explode. (My bike is a
tourer, and I've ridden tires from 28-35, never had a pinch flat, and
never had a tire blow up as I was pumping it.) How did that happen?

Bill, you're blowing smoke on this one.

Pat

[Pat Lamb]

wrote:
> I'm from Starkville, MS. We have only one shop in town put the owner
> is very nice. There is another in Tupelo (60 miles away) but I've
> never been there.

Ooh.

You'll want to test drive whatever you buy, to make sure they can set it
up right for you. Your price range will get you into a mountain bike or
hybrid, which you should (maybe?) be able to buy locally. Make sure you
get slicks on the mountain bike.

How far will your commute be? The longer the commute, the more a road
bike variant helps. For a bit more than the mountain bike, you could
get a cross or touring bike, but I don't know where to go to find one in
your neck of the woods. It'll (almost certainly) involve a road trip;
I'd suggest you check out the various manufacturers web sites and call
to see what they have in stock before you drive.

Also, check out http://userwww.sfsu.edu/~pdorn/Commuting/commuting.html
(and links off that site) for a fairly comprehensive essay on commuting
by bike.

Pat

[bbaka]

Peter Cole wrote:
> bbaka wrote:
>
>> Bill Sornson wrote:
>>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
>>>> and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
>>>> I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
>>>> cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We
>>>> have a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
>>>> looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
>>>> something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
>>>> local shop.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> You'd really be "rolling the dice" by buying mail order. Go to the
>>> shop -- tell them exactly what you want to use the bike for and what
>>> you're willing
>>> to spend. If they're snooty or whatever, find a different shop.
>>>
>>> Bill "test rides are good" S.
>>>
>>>
>> Good advice. A road bike would be out, as would also anything less
>> than a solid MTB. Strictly a tire issue here, as I have a friend who
>> is 300+ and the thinner tires will explode before he can get enough
>> pressure in them to ride the bike. A no suspension bike with the
>> knobbies swapped out for some street tires (26" x 1.75") should be
>> adequate. And definitely go to a bike shop with a good reputation.
>> There should be one or maybe even two in a college town.
>> Good luck and good riding.
>
>
> This is not true. I was around 255 when I started riding. I used a
> standard old road bike (Raleigh Grand Prix). I have ridden many miles on
> standard wheels and even 23mm (very narrow) tires.
>
> These days I am a little lighter (230) and I ride with slightly wider
> tires (25-28mm). I do this more for comfort than anything else. I have
> never broken a wheel or flatted a tire from my weight.
>
> A bike for a heavy rider may need a little more setup attention. Wheels
> in particular need to be tweaked. Most wheels come from the factory a
> bit too loosely spoked and have a tendency to loosen completely and/or
> crack from fatigue with the loads from a heavy rider.
>
> For a bike, I'd recommend a hybrid if you're on a budget, or a touring
> bike if you can afford the $600 or so starting prices. If you just want
> a "riding around" bike, a mountain bike would be fine. A good bike shop
> may be a little more $$, but worth it if they can help you select a good
> bike, set it up well for you, and provide service for the inevitable
> tweaks and little (hopefully) fixes.

I doubt that he is ready to jump into an expensive road bike with all
too skinny tires. One minor pothole at his weight and he has a pinch
flat. I might recommend as an an between compromise one of those general
purpose with the 26"(27?) by 1 and 3/8" that should carry his weight. A
700 series tire, never.
Safety first, speed second.
Bill Baka

[bbaka]

Pat Lamb wrote:
> bbaka wrote:
>
>>>
>> Good advice. A road bike would be out, as would also anything less
>> than a solid MTB. Strictly a tire issue here, as I have a friend who
>> is 300+ and the thinner tires will explode before he can get enough
>> pressure in them to ride the bike. A no suspension bike with the
>> knobbies swapped out for some street tires (26" x 1.75") should be
>> adequate. And definitely go to a bike shop with a good reputation.
>> There should be one or maybe even two in a college town.
>
>
> Funny. I rode my road bike in to work today, with clothes in panniers;
> I weigh more than the OP; and the tires didn't explode. (My bike is a
> tourer, and I've ridden tires from 28-35, never had a pinch flat, and
> never had a tire blow up as I was pumping it.) How did that happen?
>
> Bill, you're blowing smoke on this one.
>
> Pat

Depends on the roads and the riders skills. It doesn't sound like he is
a 'pro' like you.
Bill Baka
Better to err on the cheap side than blow a ton of money on something
that might discourage him.

[Peter Cole]

bbaka wrote:
> Peter Cole wrote:
>

>>
>> This is not true. I was around 255 when I started riding. I used a
>> standard old road bike (Raleigh Grand Prix). I have ridden many miles
>> on standard wheels and even 23mm (very narrow) tires.
>>
>> These days I am a little lighter (230) and I ride with slightly wider
>> tires (25-28mm). I do this more for comfort than anything else. I have
>> never broken a wheel or flatted a tire from my weight.
>

>
> I doubt that he is ready to jump into an expensive road bike with all
> too skinny tires. One minor pothole at his weight and he has a pinch
> flat. I might recommend as an an between compromise one of those general
> purpose with the 26"(27?) by 1 and 3/8" that should carry his weight. A
> 700 series tire, never.
> Safety first, speed second.

You're wrong. Perhaps you should give advice in areas you're familiar with.

[William McHale]

bbaka > wrote:
> Peter Cole wrote:
>> bbaka wrote:
>>
>>> Bill Sornson wrote:
>>>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
>>>>> and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
>>>>> I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
>>>>> cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We
>>>>> have a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
>>>>> looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
>>>>> something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
>>>>> local shop.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You'd really be "rolling the dice" by buying mail order. Go to the
>>>> shop -- tell them exactly what you want to use the bike for and what
>>>> you're willing
>>>> to spend. If they're snooty or whatever, find a different shop.
>>>>
>>>> Bill "test rides are good" S.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Good advice. A road bike would be out, as would also anything less
>>> than a solid MTB. Strictly a tire issue here, as I have a friend who
>>> is 300+ and the thinner tires will explode before he can get enough
>>> pressure in them to ride the bike. A no suspension bike with the
>>> knobbies swapped out for some street tires (26" x 1.75") should be
>>> adequate. And definitely go to a bike shop with a good reputation.
>>> There should be one or maybe even two in a college town.
>>> Good luck and good riding.
>>
>>
>> This is not true. I was around 255 when I started riding. I used a
>> standard old road bike (Raleigh Grand Prix). I have ridden many miles on
>> standard wheels and even 23mm (very narrow) tires.
>>
>> These days I am a little lighter (230) and I ride with slightly wider
>> tires (25-28mm). I do this more for comfort than anything else. I have
>> never broken a wheel or flatted a tire from my weight.
>>
>> A bike for a heavy rider may need a little more setup attention. Wheels
>> in particular need to be tweaked. Most wheels come from the factory a
>> bit too loosely spoked and have a tendency to loosen completely and/or
>> crack from fatigue with the loads from a heavy rider.
>>
>> For a bike, I'd recommend a hybrid if you're on a budget, or a touring
>> bike if you can afford the $600 or so starting prices. If you just want
>> a "riding around" bike, a mountain bike would be fine. A good bike shop
>> may be a little more $$, but worth it if they can help you select a good
>> bike, set it up well for you, and provide service for the inevitable
>> tweaks and little (hopefully) fixes.

> I doubt that he is ready to jump into an expensive road bike with all
> too skinny tires. One minor pothole at his weight and he has a pinch
> flat. I might recommend as an an between compromise one of those general
> purpose with the 26"(27?) by 1 and 3/8" that should carry his weight. A
> 700 series tire, never.
> Safety first, speed second.

There are plenty of 700s that would work. I agree that a super skinny tire
wouldn't be a great choice but a good touring tire will have enough give
in them to handle the weight (remember some touring cycles will carry
a 200 lb man and 40-60lbs of gear). I do agree that the wheels are important;
if the original poster goes with a bike with 700 series wheels I would
suggest that the rear wheel at least have 36 spokes (or even 40 but likely
the shop would have to sell tandems to support 40 spoke wheels).

--
Bill

[Pat Lamb]

bbaka wrote:
> Pat Lamb wrote:
>
>> bbaka wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>> Good advice. A road bike would be out, as would also anything less
>>> than a solid MTB. Strictly a tire issue here, as I have a friend who
>>> is 300+ and the thinner tires will explode before he can get enough
>>> pressure in them to ride the bike. A no suspension bike with the
>>> knobbies swapped out for some street tires (26" x 1.75") should be
>>> adequate. And definitely go to a bike shop with a good reputation.
>>> There should be one or maybe even two in a college town.
>>
>>
>>
>> Funny. I rode my road bike in to work today, with clothes in
>> panniers; I weigh more than the OP; and the tires didn't explode. (My
>> bike is a tourer, and I've ridden tires from 28-35, never had a pinch
>> flat, and never had a tire blow up as I was pumping it.) How did that
>> happen?
>>
>> Bill, you're blowing smoke on this one.
>>
>> Pat
>
>
> Depends on the roads and the riders skills. It doesn't sound like he is
> a 'pro' like you.
> Bill Baka
> Better to err on the cheap side than blow a ton of money on something
> that might discourage him.

Err, uhm, OK then, just how many ways are there to pump up a bicycle
tire? Do I have "pro" hands to push down the plunger of the pump, where
somebody else might "explode" the tire pushing on the pump with their
amateur hands???

[D. Dub]

local...support your community's small business...


> wrote in message
oups.com...
> I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
> and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
> I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
> cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We have
> a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
> looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
> something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
> local shop.
>
> - Joel
>

[efistrat]

bbaka wrote:
> I doubt that he is ready to jump into an expensive road bike with all

> too skinny tires. One minor pothole at his weight and he has a pinch
> flat. I might recommend as an an between compromise one of those
general
> purpose with the 26"(27?) by 1 and 3/8" that should carry his weight.
A
> 700 series tire, never.

I weigh more than the original poster. Like him, I'm reasonably
athletic; much more so than the average person would guess knowing only
my weight. I ride many, many miles per year on a road bike with 700
series tires and a modern 9-speed cassette.

I have never had a pinch flat.
I have never broken a spoke.
I have never had a wheel go out of true.
I have never broken a rear axle.

So, never say never!

BUT, I agree with you that wheels are critically important for a heavy
rider. It's a safety issue as well as a nuisance/getting stranded
issue.

I don't know how to judge the minimum safe strength of wheels for any
rider's weight. Frankly, I worry about even the flyweights with some
of those radial spoked wheels with 3 spokes each (<-- an
exaggeration!). I decided to err on the conservative side and spend my
money on well built wheels rather than doctor bills and wheel repairs.
I ride for exercise and enjoyment. I don't race, nor do I worry about
the weight of the extra spokes or heavy-duty hubs.

My wheels are hand-built with:
Phil Wood 135mm 48-hole hubs
Mavic T520 48-hole touring rims
48 Wheelsmith double-butted spokes (4-cross)
Continental Top Turing 2000 700x37 tires

These wheels would be considered high-end tandem wheels. The will
easily carry two moderate weight riders safely. I ride a touring bike
and I have no fear of loading even more weight on the bike for
unsupported touring, although I prefer to distribute more than 50% of
the extra weight to the front of the bike to even the load.

My wheelset cost more than the original poster wanted to spend for a
whole bike, so this may not be a good option for him. It may also be
overkill, but a 265 lb. rider can certainly ride a road bike with 700
series wheels safely by paying attention to the wheels.

[bbaka]

Peter Cole wrote:
> bbaka wrote:
>
>> Peter Cole wrote:
>>
>
>>>
>>> This is not true. I was around 255 when I started riding. I used a
>>> standard old road bike (Raleigh Grand Prix). I have ridden many miles
>>> on standard wheels and even 23mm (very narrow) tires.
>>>
>>> These days I am a little lighter (230) and I ride with slightly wider
>>> tires (25-28mm). I do this more for comfort than anything else. I
>>> have never broken a wheel or flatted a tire from my weight.
>>
>>
>
>>
>> I doubt that he is ready to jump into an expensive road bike with all
>> too skinny tires. One minor pothole at his weight and he has a pinch
>> flat. I might recommend as an an between compromise one of those
>> general purpose with the 26"(27?) by 1 and 3/8" that should carry his
>> weight. A 700 series tire, never.
>> Safety first, speed second.
>
>
> You're wrong. Perhaps you should give advice in areas you're familiar with.

I am familiar with the laws of physics and they say that you must ride
on some damned smooth pavement not to have any troubles. One medium rock
and you would have a fast flat. I tried pumping up my 700 x 25 tires to
about 125 and aside from a very rough ride the front one exploded when I
parked it in the sun on a hot day.
Sorry, I am going with common sense.
Bill Baka

[bbaka]

Pat Lamb wrote:
> bbaka wrote:
>
>> Pat Lamb wrote:
>>
>>> bbaka wrote:
>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Good advice. A road bike would be out, as would also anything less
>>>> than a solid MTB. Strictly a tire issue here, as I have a friend who
>>>> is 300+ and the thinner tires will explode before he can get enough
>>>> pressure in them to ride the bike. A no suspension bike with the
>>>> knobbies swapped out for some street tires (26" x 1.75") should be
>>>> adequate. And definitely go to a bike shop with a good reputation.
>>>> There should be one or maybe even two in a college town.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Funny. I rode my road bike in to work today, with clothes in
>>> panniers; I weigh more than the OP; and the tires didn't explode.
>>> (My bike is a tourer, and I've ridden tires from 28-35, never had a
>>> pinch flat, and never had a tire blow up as I was pumping it.) How
>>> did that happen?
>>>
>>> Bill, you're blowing smoke on this one.
>>>
>>> Pat
>>
>>
>>
>> Depends on the roads and the riders skills. It doesn't sound like he
>> is a 'pro' like you.
>> Bill Baka
>> Better to err on the cheap side than blow a ton of money on something
>> that might discourage him.
>
>
> Err, uhm, OK then, just how many ways are there to pump up a bicycle
> tire? Do I have "pro" hands to push down the plunger of the pump, where
> somebody else might "explode" the tire pushing on the pump with their
> amateur hands???
>
Did you ever check the gage on a gas station pump? Do you ever hit any
sharp edged potholes or do you live where the streets are repaved every
year and swept every night?
At anything over 200 pounds he is better off with more rubber to take
the load.
Bill Baka

[bbaka]

efistrat wrote:
> bbaka wrote:
>
>>I doubt that he is ready to jump into an expensive road bike with all
>
>
>>too skinny tires. One minor pothole at his weight and he has a pinch
>>flat. I might recommend as an an between compromise one of those
>
> general
>
>>purpose with the 26"(27?) by 1 and 3/8" that should carry his weight.
>
> A
>
>>700 series tire, never.
>
>
> I weigh more than the original poster. Like him, I'm reasonably
> athletic; much more so than the average person would guess knowing only
> my weight. I ride many, many miles per year on a road bike with 700
> series tires and a modern 9-speed cassette.
>
> I have never had a pinch flat.
Nor me.
> I have never broken a spoke.
I have killed 3.
> I have never had a wheel go out of true.
Done that too.
> I have never broken a rear axle.
Wore out the bearings on one.
>
> So, never say never!
>
> BUT, I agree with you that wheels are critically important for a heavy
> rider. It's a safety issue as well as a nuisance/getting stranded
> issue.
>
> I don't know how to judge the minimum safe strength of wheels for any
> rider's weight. Frankly, I worry about even the flyweights with some
> of those radial spoked wheels with 3 spokes each (<-- an
> exaggeration!). I decided to err on the conservative side and spend my
> money on well built wheels rather than doctor bills and wheel repairs.
> I ride for exercise and enjoyment. I don't race, nor do I worry about
> the weight of the extra spokes or heavy-duty hubs.

Same here, a heavy bike just gets me more exercise.
>
> My wheels are hand-built with:
> Phil Wood 135mm 48-hole hubs
> Mavic T520 48-hole touring rims
> 48 Wheelsmith double-butted spokes (4-cross)
Serious wheels.
> Continental Top Turing 2000 700x37 tires
Also 37 tires and not 25 or less.
>
> These wheels would be considered high-end tandem wheels. The will
> easily carry two moderate weight riders safely. I ride a touring bike
> and I have no fear of loading even more weight on the bike for
> unsupported touring, although I prefer to distribute more than 50% of
> the extra weight to the front of the bike to even the load.
>
> My wheelset cost more than the original poster wanted to spend for a
> whole bike, so this may not be a good option for him. It may also be
> overkill, but a 265 lb. rider can certainly ride a road bike with 700
> series wheels safely by paying attention to the wheels.
>
Paying attention is the most critical, as I have taken some big hits by
riding into a big pothole while talking to another rider. Mostly just
embarrassing on a MTB but would have been a pinch flat on a 700 tire.
Bill Baka

[William McHale]

bbaka > wrote:
> Peter Cole wrote:
>> bbaka wrote:
>>
>>> Peter Cole wrote:
>>>
>>
>>>>
>>>> This is not true. I was around 255 when I started riding. I used a
>>>> standard old road bike (Raleigh Grand Prix). I have ridden many miles
>>>> on standard wheels and even 23mm (very narrow) tires.
>>>>
>>>> These days I am a little lighter (230) and I ride with slightly wider
>>>> tires (25-28mm). I do this more for comfort than anything else. I
>>>> have never broken a wheel or flatted a tire from my weight.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>>
>>> I doubt that he is ready to jump into an expensive road bike with all
>>> too skinny tires. One minor pothole at his weight and he has a pinch
>>> flat. I might recommend as an an between compromise one of those
>>> general purpose with the 26"(27?) by 1 and 3/8" that should carry his
>>> weight. A 700 series tire, never.
>>> Safety first, speed second.
>>
>>
>> You're wrong. Perhaps you should give advice in areas you're familiar with.

> I am familiar with the laws of physics and they say that you must ride
> on some damned smooth pavement not to have any troubles. One medium rock
> and you would have a fast flat. I tried pumping up my 700 x 25 tires to
> about 125 and aside from a very rough ride the front one exploded when I
> parked it in the sun on a hot day.
> Sorry, I am going with common sense.

Unfortunately for your position a single anecdote does not prove the point,
nor the physics of your point. Your initial statement was that there
simply was no 700 series tire that would be safe to ride on. The thing is
they come in a variety of widths and also strengths. Perhaps a 700x25 would
not be able to take the pressure, or perhaps it was your particular tire that
could not. In any case, there are touring bikes and tandems, both capable of
carrying loads in excess of 250 to 300lbs that use 700 series tires. Since
these bikes are not regarded as death traps then it seems clear that there are
some 700 series tires and wheels that can handle that amount of weight with
out problems.

--
Bill

[bbaka]

William McHale wrote:
> bbaka > wrote:
>
>>I am familiar with the laws of physics and they say that you must ride
>>on some damned smooth pavement not to have any troubles. One medium rock
>>and you would have a fast flat. I tried pumping up my 700 x 25 tires to
>>about 125 and aside from a very rough ride the front one exploded when I
>>parked it in the sun on a hot day.
>>Sorry, I am going with common sense.
>
>
> Unfortunately for your position a single anecdote does not prove the point,
> nor the physics of your point. Your initial statement was that there
> simply was no 700 series tire that would be safe to ride on. The thing is
> they come in a variety of widths and also strengths. Perhaps a 700x25 would
> not be able to take the pressure, or perhaps it was your particular tire that
> could not. In any case, there are touring bikes and tandems, both capable of
> carrying loads in excess of 250 to 300lbs that use 700 series tires. Since
> these bikes are not regarded as death traps then it seems clear that there are
> some 700 series tires and wheels that can handle that amount of weight with
> out problems.
>
> --
> Bill

I will only concede that a wider tire is less likely to suffer a major
blowout from load. If you can place 300 pounds on a 700x25 tire and feel
good about it then good for you, but I won't. I rode the 700 at 125 for
one day of fast but vibrating riding before the sun heated it up to the
explode point. Maybe just 100 PsI for me at 150 Pounds then?
Bill Baka

[Rich]

wrote:
> I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
> and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
> I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
> cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We have
> a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
> looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
> something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
> local shop.

As most have said, mountain bike or something similar, from your local
LBS (local bike shop) so you can test ride it. Shocks aren't necessary
for the road. I routinely ride my old no-shock mountain bike 20+ miles
on the road and it works well. I woudl recommend some bar ends though.
THey're cheap and give you alternate hand postitions.

Rich

[Rich]

P.S. You might also want to replace the stock saddle immediatly. I've
never had a stock one that was comfortable. I personally use a gel seat
that I think works great, but others might disagree. But you can
probably get a discount on the aftermarket seat and bar ends if you buy
them when you get the bike (although niether is very expensive).

[Rich]

bbaka wrote:

> I rode the 700 at 125 for
> one day of fast but vibrating riding before the sun heated it up to the
> explode point.

Maybe you had a defective tube, or the tube had a thorn half way through
it, weakening it. Making generalizations from one case is ludicrous.

You're an idiot Bill.

Rich :-)

[bbaka]

Rich wrote:
> bbaka wrote:
>
>> I rode the 700 at 125 for one day of fast but vibrating riding before
>> the sun heated it up to the explode point.
>
>
> Maybe you had a defective tube, or the tube had a thorn half way through
> it, weakening it. Making generalizations from one case is ludicrous.
>
> You're an idiot Bill.
>
> Rich :-)

No, I just don't roll over and agree with all the **** some of you road
bike only types put out. I have 2 MTBs, 1 crossover with 1 3/8" wide
tires, and a 700 series plus a whole lot of parts.

The tire that exploded, I did an autopsie on this morning and it had UV
sun damage at the point where it blew, so maybe it would have when I was
riding it. I still don't think that a 700 series is a good choice for a
guy who admits that he is in the 250 pound class.

Bill Baka

[William McHale]

bbaka > wrote:
> William McHale wrote:
>> bbaka > wrote:
>>
>>>I am familiar with the laws of physics and they say that you must ride
>>>on some damned smooth pavement not to have any troubles. One medium rock
>>>and you would have a fast flat. I tried pumping up my 700 x 25 tires to
>>>about 125 and aside from a very rough ride the front one exploded when I
>>>parked it in the sun on a hot day.
>>>Sorry, I am going with common sense.
>>
>>
>> Unfortunately for your position a single anecdote does not prove the point,
>> nor the physics of your point. Your initial statement was that there
>> simply was no 700 series tire that would be safe to ride on. The thing is
>> they come in a variety of widths and also strengths. Perhaps a 700x25 would
>> not be able to take the pressure, or perhaps it was your particular tire that
>> could not. In any case, there are touring bikes and tandems, both capable of
>> carrying loads in excess of 250 to 300lbs that use 700 series tires. Since
>> these bikes are not regarded as death traps then it seems clear that there are
>> some 700 series tires and wheels that can handle that amount of weight with
>> out problems.
>>
>> --
>> Bill

> I will only concede that a wider tire is less likely to suffer a major
> blowout from load. If you can place 300 pounds on a 700x25 tire and feel
> good about it then good for you, but I won't. I rode the 700 at 125 for
> one day of fast but vibrating riding before the sun heated it up to the
> explode point. Maybe just 100 PsI for me at 150 Pounds then?

So you are claiming that Tandem and Touring Cyclists are risking injury if
their bikes have 700C tires?

--
Bill

[William McHale]

Rich > wrote:

> P.S. You might also want to replace the stock saddle immediatly. I've
> never had a stock one that was comfortable. I personally use a gel seat
> that I think works great, but others might disagree. But you can
> probably get a discount on the aftermarket seat and bar ends if you buy
> them when you get the bike (although niether is very expensive).

Well I am fan on leather saddles myself since they then to adjust to fit you.

That being said if you can find a gel saddle or any sort of saddle that is
comfortable for you then that is the way you should go.

--
Bill

[Patrick Lamb]

On Sun, 15 May 2005 13:53:35 GMT, William McHale
> wrote:

>bbaka > wrote:
>> I will only concede that a wider tire is less likely to suffer a major
>> blowout from load. If you can place 300 pounds on a 700x25 tire and feel
>> good about it then good for you, but I won't. I rode the 700 at 125 for
>> one day of fast but vibrating riding before the sun heated it up to the
>> explode point. Maybe just 100 PsI for me at 150 Pounds then?
>
>So you are claiming that Tandem and Touring Cyclists are risking injury if
>their bikes have 700C tires?

Good luck figuring out what BBaka is claiming. I think he's in
training to be a politician, or a Chevy Chase-style diplomat.

Or is this "bbaka" merely an artificial intelligence foisted on the
r.b.* groups to stimulate discussion?

Pat

Email address works as is.

[Bill Sornson]

Patrick Lamb wrote:
> On Sun, 15 May 2005 13:53:35 GMT, William McHale
> > wrote:
>
>> bbaka > wrote:
>>> I will only concede that a wider tire is less likely to suffer a
>>> major blowout from load. If you can place 300 pounds on a 700x25
>>> tire and feel good about it then good for you, but I won't. I rode
>>> the 700 at 125 for one day of fast but vibrating riding before the
>>> sun heated it up to the explode point. Maybe just 100 PsI for me at
>>> 150 Pounds then?
>>
>> So you are claiming that Tandem and Touring Cyclists are risking
>> injury if their bikes have 700C tires?
>
> Good luck figuring out what BBaka is claiming. I think he's in
> training to be a politician, or a Chevy Chase-style diplomat.

Or a crazy hermit?

> Or is this "bbaka" merely an artificial intelligence foisted on the
> r.b.* groups to stimulate discussion?

Mostly we discuss how he simulates intelligence artificially.

Foisted Upon BS

[Jeff Starr]

On Sun, 15 May 2005 22:00:18 -0500, Patrick Lamb
> wrote:


>
>Good luck figuring out what BBaka is claiming. I think he's in
>training to be a politician, or a Chevy Chase-style diplomat.
>
>Or is this "bbaka" merely an artificial intelligence foisted on the
>r.b.* groups to stimulate discussion?
>
I'll buy the artificial, but when you add intelligence, you can't be
describing little bill.


Life is Good!
Jeff

[Steven M. Scharf]

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
> and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
> I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
> cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We have
> a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
> looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
> something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
> local shop.

For riding to work, with your weight, you're going to want something
like a steel touring, or sport-touring, bicycle. But $400 is not really
do-able.

Something like the Fuji Finest would be good,
http://bikesdirect.com/products/02fuji/fuji_finest.htm
but it is sold out.

Be certain that whatever you purchase has braze-ons for racks and fenders,
if this is going to be commute bicycle.

It's almost always better to go to a shop, but not many shops know a lot
about commuting bicycles, and they may try to sell you something unsuitable.

See: http://nordicgroup.us/commutebike/

[William McHale]

Steven M. Scharf > wrote:

> > wrote in message
> oups.com...
>> I'm a fatty (265 lbs.). I carry it well though. I play racquetball
>> and lift weights but I would like to get a little bit more cardio in.
>> I've decided I would like to bike to work. I don't know anyone who
>> cycles here (but there are lots, as I live in a college town). We have
>> a large bicycle shop but I have no idea if it's overpriced. I'm
>> looking to spend $300-$400 on an everyday (to work) bike. Can I get
>> something like that online, or should I just roll the dice with the
>> local shop.

> For riding to work, with your weight, you're going to want something
> like a steel touring, or sport-touring, bicycle. But $400 is not really
> do-able.

You know something that hasn't been discussed much on here is that one doesn't
necessarily need to buy a new bike. While new Touring bicycles start at
around $850 you might be able to get a much better deal on a used bike.
Granted you need to find a shop that deals in used bikes and your selection
will be limited by what they have, but it could help you save a bit of
money. The one thing is that your components might be old, but then they
can always be upgraded later as time and money allows.

--
Bill

[bbaka]

William McHale wrote:
> bbaka > wrote:
>
>
>>I will only concede that a wider tire is less likely to suffer a major
>>blowout from load. If you can place 300 pounds on a 700x25 tire and feel
>>good about it then good for you, but I won't. I rode the 700 at 125 for
>>one day of fast but vibrating riding before the sun heated it up to the
>>explode point. Maybe just 100 PsI for me at 150 Pounds then?
>
>
> So you are claiming that Tandem and Touring Cyclists are risking injury if
> their bikes have 700C tires?
>
> --
> Bill

No, Only that a wider tire would probably be a lot less likey to have a
blowout.
Testy group about their 700 series tires.
Bill Baka

[Steven M. Scharf]

"William McHale" > wrote in message
...

> You know something that hasn't been discussed much on here is that one
doesn't
> necessarily need to buy a new bike. While new Touring bicycles start at
> around $850 you might be able to get a much better deal on a used bike.
> Granted you need to find a shop that deals in used bikes and your
selection
> will be limited by what they have, but it could help you save a bit of
> money. The one thing is that your components might be old, but then they
> can always be upgraded later as time and money allows.

In my area, there are often good deals on used bicycles on craigslist.org.
And of course there are also bad deals, from people with an inflated idea of
what a used bicycle is worth.

[William McHale]

Steven M. Scharf > wrote:
> "William McHale" > wrote in message
> ...

>> You know something that hasn't been discussed much on here is that one
> doesn't
>> necessarily need to buy a new bike. While new Touring bicycles start at
>> around $850 you might be able to get a much better deal on a used bike.
>> Granted you need to find a shop that deals in used bikes and your
> selection
>> will be limited by what they have, but it could help you save a bit of
>> money. The one thing is that your components might be old, but then they
>> can always be upgraded later as time and money allows.

> In my area, there are often good deals on used bicycles on craigslist.org.
> And of course there are also bad deals, from people with an inflated idea of
> what a used bicycle is worth.

Right, but the flip side is that there are quite a few people who seem to
buy new Bicycles every few years. Thus creating a supply.
Unfortunately in this case it is not as common with touring bikes.

--
Bill

[Jeff Starr]

On Mon, 16 May 2005 07:39:49 -0700, bbaka > wrote:


>>
>>
>> So you are claiming that Tandem and Touring Cyclists are risking injury if
>> their bikes have 700C tires?
>>
>> --
>> Bill
>
>No, Only that a wider tire would probably be a lot less likey to have a
>blowout.
>Testy group about their 700 series tires.
>Bill Baka

It has nothing to do with 700 series tires, it has to do with you
spewing bad, inaccurate information, again.

You have one tire blowout, for who knows what reason, and you damn a
whole series of tires.


Life is Good!
Jeff