Getting back into it.

[Roy Owen]

After 13 years I'm getting back into cycling (not competitive). I'm
tired of being old and fat (well fat, that's something I have control
over). I have a Bianchi Alfana with Nisi Laser rims, American Classic
hubs, Time peddles and Shimano 105 components that I purchased new in
'92. The rear dropouts are spaced at 130 mm. I'd like to upgrade to
some newer Campy derailures but everything now is 9 and 10 speed. I can
probably fit an 8 sp cassette on the rear but that's about it. I'd like
to keep everything Campy but I need to find some Down Tube Friction (you
all can keep this new-fangled indexed stuff)Shifters.

Thanks

Roy

[jj]

On Sun, 15 May 2005 14:41:58 -0400, Roy Owen > wrote:

>After 13 years I'm getting back into cycling (not competitive). I'm
>tired of being old and fat (well fat, that's something I have control
>over). I have a Bianchi Alfana with Nisi Laser rims, American Classic
>hubs, Time peddles and Shimano 105 components that I purchased new in
>'92. The rear dropouts are spaced at 130 mm. I'd like to upgrade to
>some newer Campy derailures but everything now is 9 and 10 speed. I can
>probably fit an 8 sp cassette on the rear but that's about it. I'd like
>to keep everything Campy but I need to find some Down Tube Friction (you
>all can keep this new-fangled indexed stuff)Shifters.
>
>Thanks
>
>Roy

Be sure and at least try a new bike with indexed shifters (STI) before
passing them up. I've ridden both friction and indexed and imo indexed is a
huge advantage/improvement, so much so that I'd say it's revolutionary.

2 cents.

jj

[araby]

I have a Bianchi Alfana with Nisi Laser rims, American Classic
> hubs, Time peddles and Shimano 105 components that I purchased new in '92.
> The rear dropouts are spaced at 130 mm.
I'd like to upgrade to
> some newer Campy derailures but everything now is 9 and 10 speed. I can
> probably fit an 8 sp cassette on the rear but that's about it.

You can get the drop-out spacing required by cold setting the rear forks.
It's a task that good bike shops are familiar with as many folk upgrade
their components from time to time. I've had this done on two bikes for this
reason.

>I'd like to keep everything Campy but I need to find some Down Tube
>Friction (you all can keep this new-fangled indexed stuff)Shifters.

Why? Indexing shifting is easier and in my view much better. If you don't
like STI or Ergo designs, why not go for bar ends. I have both (Veloce 9
speed and Dura Ace bar ends) -highly recommended. What have you got against
them? I'm surprised that your '92 Bianchi wasn't indexed.

Regards,

Roy

[Jeff Starr]

On Sun, 15 May 2005 14:41:58 -0400, Roy Owen > wrote:

>After 13 years I'm getting back into cycling (not competitive). I'm
>tired of being old and fat (well fat, that's something I have control
>over). I have a Bianchi Alfana with Nisi Laser rims, American Classic
>hubs, Time peddles and Shimano 105 components that I purchased new in
>'92. The rear dropouts are spaced at 130 mm. I'd like to upgrade to
>some newer Campy derailures but everything now is 9 and 10 speed. I can
>probably fit an 8 sp cassette on the rear but that's about it. I'd like
>to keep everything Campy but I need to find some Down Tube Friction (you
>all can keep this new-fangled indexed stuff)Shifters.
>
>Thanks
>
>Roy

Welcome back, you should post the info on your hubs, etc. You may find
that you can go 9 or 10 speed in the rear. 130mm is the correct
spacing.

And you're right, most of us do want to keep our "new-fangled indexed
stuff". Indexed shifting, when intergrated with the brake levers
offers a number of benefits, including more efficient precise
shifting, and safety. You can shift, while keeping your hands on the
bars and with your hands on or near the brakes. Lets see you do that
with your downtube shifters. Although, they still make down tube
shifters, but they are indexed.

As someone else said, don't rule out indexed shifting until you have
actually tried it. So, have you actually tried them? Have you gone
out for a few miles on a bike with ergo or STI shifters? Do that and
then decide. I'd be very surprised if you didn't like them, or at
least, not find them useless, and without merit.

In 2002, I started riding again, after taking off for 25 years. The
first year back, I put new tubes, tires, and a saddle on my French
10-speed, and rode it. The next year I had some mods done, including
indexed shifting, with a 6-speed freewheel. I immediately improved my
performance, because I was shifting more. With the old downtubes, I
would often put up with a too low gear, because I was stopping in a
block or so. I would do this, because I could waste a lot of that
block, trying to get that friction setup to catch that tricky middle
gear, or one of the others. I then bought a new bike in July of 2003,
with STI shifters and a 9-speed cassette. It was the best thing I
could have done. The bike is a pleasure to ride.

Your bike is a lot newer than mine was, [actually I still have it, I
use it for a backup], so if the frame is nice, it might be worthwhile
upgrading the rest.


Life is Good!
Jeff

[Roy Owen]

araby wrote:
> Why? Indexing shifting is easier and in my view much better. If you don't
> like STI or Ergo designs, why not go for bar ends. I have both (Veloce 9
> speed and Dura Ace bar ends) -highly recommended. What have you got against
> them? I'm surprised that your '92 Bianchi wasn't indexed.

It is, I have it set to friction. I got tired of always needing to
adjust the derailure to get rid of the "clicking".

[Roy Owen]

Jeff Starr wrote:
> Welcome back, you should post the info on your hubs, etc. You may find
> that you can go 9 or 10 speed in the rear. 130mm is the correct
> spacing.
All I can tell you is that they are American Classic from 1992. As far
as I know AC only makes one road hub. Would the wheel need re-dished or
would the new cassette just drop on the hub?

>
> And you're right, most of us do want to keep our "new-fangled indexed
> stuff". Indexed shifting, when intergrated with the brake levers
> offers a number of benefits, including more efficient precise
> shifting, and safety. You can shift, while keeping your hands on the
> bars and with your hands on or near the brakes. Lets see you do that
> with your downtube shifters. Although, they still make down tube
> shifters, but they are indexed.

My down tube shifters are indexed, I currently have then in friction as
I've never been able to keep the derailure adjusted properly. Maybe
it's just the Shimano 105's quality.

>
> As someone else said, don't rule out indexed shifting until you have
> actually tried it. So, have you actually tried them? Have you gone
> out for a few miles on a bike with ergo or STI shifters? Do that and
> then decide. I'd be very surprised if you didn't like them, or at
> least, not find them useless, and without merit.

Do they stay adjusted? I hate that rattling when the derailure is
mis-adjusted. Part of why I cycle is the quiet.

>
> In 2002, I started riding again, after taking off for 25 years. The
> first year back, I put new tubes, tires, and a saddle on my French
> 10-speed, and rode it. The next year I had some mods done, including
> indexed shifting, with a 6-speed freewheel. I immediately improved my
> performance, because I was shifting more. With the old downtubes, I
> would often put up with a too low gear, because I was stopping in a
> block or so. I would do this, because I could waste a lot of that
> block, trying to get that friction setup to catch that tricky middle
> gear, or one of the others. I then bought a new bike in July of 2003,
> with STI shifters and a 9-speed cassette. It was the best thing I
> could have done. The bike is a pleasure to ride.
>
> Your bike is a lot newer than mine was, [actually I still have it, I
> use it for a backup], so if the frame is nice, it might be worthwhile
> upgrading the rest.
>
>
> Life is Good!
> Jeff

[Jeff Starr]

On Sun, 15 May 2005 20:13:04 -0400, Roy Owen > wrote:

>Jeff Starr wrote:
>> Welcome back, you should post the info on your hubs, etc. You may find
>> that you can go 9 or 10 speed in the rear. 130mm is the correct
>> spacing.
>All I can tell you is that they are American Classic from 1992. As far
>as I know AC only makes one road hub. Would the wheel need re-dished or
>would the new cassette just drop on the hub?

I meant to suggest last time, to post this info and ask in
re.bicycle.tech. I'm sure they can help you there. You don't have to
reset the dropouts, at 130mm, they are fine.
>
Snipped
>
>Do they stay adjusted? I hate that rattling when the derailure is
>mis-adjusted. Part of why I cycle is the quiet.
>
Mine do.


Life is Good!
Jeff

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

>> And you're right, most of us do want to keep our "new-fangled indexed
>> stuff". Indexed shifting, when intergrated with the brake levers
>> offers a number of benefits, including more efficient precise
>> shifting, and safety. You can shift, while keeping your hands on the
>> bars and with your hands on or near the brakes. Lets see you do that
>> with your downtube shifters. Although, they still make down tube
>> shifters, but they are indexed.
>
> My down tube shifters are indexed, I currently have then in friction as
> I've never been able to keep the derailure adjusted properly. Maybe it's
> just the Shimano 105's quality.

A couple things that might be going on. First, early downtube shift levers
didn't have a long lifespan; the keyed interface between the shift lever and
boss would often wear out pretty quickly. This was mostly an issue with
6-speed equipment though, and largely solved down the road. Second, the
D-ring on the right side lever is notorious for moving off of the "indexed"
position when shifting. You have no idea (or perhaps you do!) how often I
get older bikes in for shifting problems, and the only issue is that the
D-ring is not longer aligned with "SIS" but rather someplace between "SIS"
and "Friction"; a no-man's land where nothing works quite right.

Second, there's a world of difference in shifting accuracy now vs 1992.
Chains & cassette designs have improved significantly since then.

Best bet is to simply ride a bike with the new-fangled STI stuff and see
what you think. The argument can always be made that, with it so easy to
shift, you may shift more often than you truly need and somehow contribute
to global warming, but in my opinion, it's worth the risk.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"Roy Owen" > wrote in message
...
> Jeff Starr wrote:
>> Welcome back, you should post the info on your hubs, etc. You may find
>> that you can go 9 or 10 speed in the rear. 130mm is the correct
>> spacing.
> All I can tell you is that they are American Classic from 1992. As far as
> I know AC only makes one road hub. Would the wheel need re-dished or
> would the new cassette just drop on the hub?
>
>>
>> And you're right, most of us do want to keep our "new-fangled indexed
>> stuff". Indexed shifting, when intergrated with the brake levers
>> offers a number of benefits, including more efficient precise
>> shifting, and safety. You can shift, while keeping your hands on the
>> bars and with your hands on or near the brakes. Lets see you do that
>> with your downtube shifters. Although, they still make down tube
>> shifters, but they are indexed.
>
> My down tube shifters are indexed, I currently have then in friction as
> I've never been able to keep the derailure adjusted properly. Maybe it's
> just the Shimano 105's quality.
>
>>
>> As someone else said, don't rule out indexed shifting until you have
>> actually tried it. So, have you actually tried them? Have you gone
>> out for a few miles on a bike with ergo or STI shifters? Do that and
>> then decide. I'd be very surprised if you didn't like them, or at
>> least, not find them useless, and without merit.
>
> Do they stay adjusted? I hate that rattling when the derailure is
> mis-adjusted. Part of why I cycle is the quiet.
>
>>
>> In 2002, I started riding again, after taking off for 25 years. The
>> first year back, I put new tubes, tires, and a saddle on my French
>> 10-speed, and rode it. The next year I had some mods done, including
>> indexed shifting, with a 6-speed freewheel. I immediately improved my
>> performance, because I was shifting more. With the old downtubes, I
>> would often put up with a too low gear, because I was stopping in a
>> block or so. I would do this, because I could waste a lot of that
>> block, trying to get that friction setup to catch that tricky middle
>> gear, or one of the others. I then bought a new bike in July of 2003,
>> with STI shifters and a 9-speed cassette. It was the best thing I
>> could have done. The bike is a pleasure to ride. Your bike is a lot newer
>> than mine was, [actually I still have it, I
>> use it for a backup], so if the frame is nice, it might be worthwhile
>> upgrading the rest.
>>
>>
>> Life is Good!
>> Jeff