Shimano Cantilever question (BR-R550)
 

Hi,

I ruined a wheel on my old bike today. I take the wheels out of my CX bike,
put them in my old bike and mount a better set of wheels in my CX bike.

Now the problem: both the old wheelset and the new one are CXP33 rims and I
hoped this could be swapped without problems. But no, the brakes have to be
adjusted. Now the problem: whatever I do, the left brake shoe is closer to
the rim than the right brake shoe. As a matter of fact it is too close to
the rim.

-How do I adjust the brake in such a way that both brakeshoes touch the rim
at the same time?
-How do I get the left brakeshoe to be positioned further away from the rim?

I haven't figured out this braking system yet....

Thanks! Derk

Derk at wrote on 12/16/04 9:35 AM:
Now the problem: both the old wheelset and the new one are CXP33 rims and I
hoped this could be swapped without problems. But no, the brakes have to be
adjusted. Now the problem: whatever I do, the left brake shoe is closer to
the rim than the right brake shoe. As a matter of fact it is too close to
the rim.

-How do I adjust the brake in such a way that both brakeshoes touch the rim
at the same time?
-How do I get the left brakeshoe to be positioned further away from the rim?


It would help to know specifically what brakes you have.

There are a couple variables in the equation:

Brake pads with a smooth post that are held by a fixing bolt
- or -
Brake pads which are threaded and are spaced by washers

Some canti's have centering adjustments near the mounting bolt (where the
brake is attached to the canti post on the frame).

Also, one of your wheelsets may not have been centered correctly, or you
might double-check that you have the new one all the way into the dropouts.

Hope that helps,

- Jim

--

CycloFiend

to reply directly, replace the dashes to create the name above

Jim Edgar wrote:

-How do I adjust the brake in such a way that both brakeshoes touch
the rim
at the same time?
-How do I get the left brakeshoe to be positioned further away from
the rim?


It would help to know specifically what brakes you have.


Jim- Derk specifically describes the brakes as "BR-R550" cantilevers.
Here's an exploded view:
http://www.shimano-europe.com/cyclin...ew/BR-R550.pdf

Derk- use the "spring tension adjusting screw" (#2 in the diagram) to
vary the position of the arms in relation to the rim. From your
description, you should tighten the screw on the left side and loosen
the screw on the right side.

However, before you do this, you should insure that the wheel is
correctly dished and that it is completely seated in the dropouts.
Centering the brake should be one of the last adjustments you make.
Jeff

wrote in message
oups.com...

Jim Edgar wrote:

-How do I adjust the brake in such a way that both brakeshoes touch
the rim
at the same time?
-How do I get the left brakeshoe to be positioned further away from
the rim?


It would help to know specifically what brakes you have.


Jim- Derk specifically describes the brakes as "BR-R550" cantilevers.
Here's an exploded view:

http://www.shimano-europe.com/cyclin...ew/BR-R550.pdf

Derk- use the "spring tension adjusting screw" (#2 in the diagram) to
vary the position of the arms in relation to the rim. From your
description, you should tighten the screw on the left side and loosen
the screw on the right side.

However, before you do this, you should insure that the wheel is
correctly dished and that it is completely seated in the dropouts.
Centering the brake should be one of the last adjustments you make.
Jeff

I would add only that you should make sure that the end of the spring on
each arm is plugged into the same hole in the frame boss. There are usually
3 holes, for light, medium and strong settings. Also be sure to grease the
studs.

Peter Cole wrote on 12/16/04 4:32 PM:


It would help to know specifically what brakes you have.


Jim- Derk specifically describes the brakes as "BR-R550" cantilevers.
Here's an exploded view:

http://www.shimano-europe.com/cyclin...ew/BR-R550.pdf


Sorry. My bad - had the subject line truncated in OE and didn't take the
time to read it in my response.

"I've gotta cut down on the caffeine...."

-- Jim

--

CycloFiend

to reply directly, replace the dashes to create the name above

Jim Edgar wrote:

Sorry. My bad - had the subject line truncated in OE and didn't take
the
time to read it in my response.

"I've gotta cut down on the caffeine...."


You and me both.

JJeeffff......

Derk wrote:

Hi,

I ruined a wheel on my old bike today. I take the wheels out of my CX bike,
put them in my old bike and mount a better set of wheels in my CX bike.

Now the problem: both the old wheelset and the new one are CXP33 rims and I
hoped this could be swapped without problems. But no, the brakes have to be
adjusted. Now the problem: whatever I do, the left brake shoe is closer to
the rim than the right brake shoe. As a matter of fact it is too close to
the rim.

-How do I adjust the brake in such a way that both brakeshoes touch the rim
at the same time?
-How do I get the left brakeshoe to be positioned further away from the rim?

I haven't figured out this braking system yet....

The most common centering problem is a wheel not installed
in the center of the frame/fork. Slip your fingers between
the tire and the frame on both sides at once.

The opposite problem is the brakes may have been set up with
the wheel not centered. If that's the case, remember to
check that before doing brake adjustments! The immediate
symptom is one shoe high and one low.

Otherwise for centering, make sure the pads are equal
distance from the arms and then use the fine adjust screw to
balance the spring tension.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Derk wrote:
wrote:

use the "spring tension adjusting screw" (#2 in the diagram) to
vary the position of the arms in relation to the rim.
The spring itseelf is missing in the diagram I would say. I solved it
by
bending the spring (the long iron "wire") outwards a bit. It was not
possible to completely get it right using the adjusting screw. I had
to
bend the spring slightly.

Thank you all very much for the help: you gave me lots of useful
tips.
I find it far more difficult to adjust then a normal Shimano caliper
brake
for racing bikes.


I agree. This is why I recently got rid of my Cannondale touring bike
(and other reasons) and opted for a long-reach caliper design (Gunnar
Sport), so as to be able to use fenders. I admit there are some
applications for which there is no alternative to cantilevers but, like
you said, they are way more complicated.

Robin Hubert

Robin wrote:

I agree. This is why I recently got rid of my Cannondale touring bike
(and other reasons) and opted for a long-reach caliper design (Gunnar
Sport), so as to be able to use fenders. I admit there are some
applications for which there is no alternative to cantilevers but,
like you said, they are way more complicated.


Interesting.

Would you tell me a bit more about your dissatisfaction with your Cannondale
tourer? Was yours the T800 or T2000?

I ride a T2000 w/Shimano canti's and Kool-stop pads and have /no/ problems
with braking, or with the bike in general. Well, nothing aside from the
wretched heaviness of the darned thing.

Beautiful bike, that Gunnar, incidentally. They're on my short list for a
potential road bike.

Neil