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STI and cables
Help me, I am new to STI.
When replacing the cables should I get the non-stretch ones from Aztec? With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable friend recommended replacing the cables etc I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. Is this all worthwhile? |
STI and cables
wrote in message
... Help me, I am new to STI. When replacing the cables should I get the non-stretch ones from Aztec? With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable friend recommended replacing the cables etc I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. Is this all worthwhile? How many miles do you have on the various drivetrain components? If you don't let the chain get too stretched (actually, "lengthened" is the better term, since the material in a chain doesn't actually stretch, but rather the pins wear) too far, a cassette will usually last through 5 chains. As for the cables themselves, they tend to fail somewhere between 7-12k miles from my experience. Not a bad idea at that point to replace both cables & housings. Something I should be doing more often on my own bike! I'm not convinced that super-duper cables & housing are any better than Shimano or Jagwire though. --Mike Jacoubowsky Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReaction.com Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA |
STI and cables
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STI and cables
fuentedeb wrote:
When replacing the cables should I get the non-stretch ones from Aztec? Cables don't stretch, the housings may compress. Shimano or Jag Wire cables are fine. Use metal ferrules on shift cable housing ends. With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable friend recommended replacing the cables etc. What exactly is "clanging?" Is the chain rubbing the front derailleur cage? Or rubbing an adjacent cog? I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. *Is this all worthwhile? How many miles on them? The clanging is probably an adjustment on chainline problem. It should be easy to find the problem if you put the bike in a stand (or just hang the bike from hooks), and turn the cranks. Art Harris |
STI and cables
On Aug 10, 8:55*pm, wrote:
Help me, I am new to STI. When replacing the cables should I get the non-stretch ones from Aztec? With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable friend recommended replacing the cables etc I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. *Is this all worthwhile? After reading this thread and altho much good info can be gained, a trip down to a competent, helpful bike shop will answer all your questions and hopefully, give you good advice. |
STI and cables
On 2008-08-11, John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
[...] Maybe you need to adjust the cable tension a little bit. Find where it's clanking and decide if the front or rear derailleur is too far in or out. It is possible one of the cables is starting to fray up a bit and that is affecting things. See if you can get a look at it inside the brifter. If that's the case then obviously replace it. In my experience, after a bike is has been ridden for a few weeks with the shift cables properly adjusted, any change in cable tension is a sign that something is bent, breaking or about the break. Usually the cables. Yes mine too. Maintenance-free until they break, but often a few strands break first and the cable gets a little bit longer and that's the first sign of trouble. Another clue is spiky bits of frayed cable protruding from the rubber brifter and jabbing you in the hands. |
STI and cables
With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring
and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable friend recommended replacing the cables etc I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. Is this all worthwhile? I wouldn't bother with replacing the cables until they're broken. A broken gear cable, on the "wrong" side of the hill, can really wreck a ride. And the symptoms of a failing gear cable are so subtle they're rarely recognized. The most-common is the ability to shift to a larger sprocket, but reluctance for it to shift back down. We don't replace gear cables often enough for our customers, because they don't call attention to themselves. The timeline for the failure mode is simply too short and rarely times itself just right for when it's in the shop. That's why I think replacing them every 7k miles or so isn't such a bad idea. --Mike Jacoubowsky Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReaction.com Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA "Ben C" wrote in message ... On 2008-08-11, wrote: Help me, I am new to STI. When replacing the cables should I get the non-stretch ones from Aztec? I don't know about non-stretch (some claim to be "pre-stretched"), but it is worth getting stainless cables because the other ones do rust and break rather quickly. Shimano cables are good. Also get the right size: 1.2mm diameter for gear cables, 1.5mm for brakes. With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable friend recommended replacing the cables etc I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. Is this all worthwhile? I wouldn't bother with replacing the cables until they're broken. Maybe you need to adjust the cable tension a little bit. Find where it's clanking and decide if the front or rear derailleur is too far in or out. It is possible one of the cables is starting to fray up a bit and that is affecting things. See if you can get a look at it inside the brifter. If that's the case then obviously replace it. Replace the chain if 12 complete links measure longer than 12 1/16 inches. If they're longer than 12 1/8 inches, replace the cassette as well. |
STI and cables
Slightly off-topic, but do you think the newer Shimano 7900 system, which
pulls a great amount of cable per shift, might have fewer cable breaking issues? My thinking is that the larger the radius of the part that spools up the cable, the less stress from having it wound up tightly. --Mike Jacoubowsky Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReaction.com Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA |
STI and cables
On 2008-08-11, Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable friend recommended replacing the cables etc I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. Is this all worthwhile? I wouldn't bother with replacing the cables until they're broken. A broken gear cable, on the "wrong" side of the hill, can really wreck a ride. And the symptoms of a failing gear cable are so subtle they're rarely recognized. The most-common is the ability to shift to a larger sprocket, but reluctance for it to shift back down. We don't replace gear cables often enough for our customers, because they don't call attention to themselves. The timeline for the failure mode is simply too short and rarely times itself just right for when it's in the shop. That's why I think replacing them every 7k miles or so isn't such a bad idea. Yes that probably isn't a bad idea-- they don't cost much, are quick to change and can be relied upon to fail eventually. You can always get home if one breaks (set the limit screw to give you a reasonable gear) but it's a bit of a hassle. Bring a spare if touring in a country without regular bike shops. |
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