Mechanical Failure?
 

I've been using FSA 10 speed Gossamer (aluminum) cranks. I have never had any troubles with them except wearing out the rings. The latest ones are really good - they have a 30 mm shaft and the bolt pattern is 110 mm so that you can use 53/39, 52/36 or 50/34 ring sets.

I bought a set of the carbon fiber cranks but that was quite a time ago. They were barely lighter than the aluminum cranks and at two or three times the cost.

Now they are also making the new 4 arm cranks that weigh the same as the old carbon cranks did.

Andrew and someone else here having a discussion about always using the recommended torque to tighten the locking bolts and rather than use my usual "by feel" method I used the torque wrench and rode it that way.

The locking bolt is on the left side and it uses a normal right-hand thread.. Well, the recommended torque allows the left arm to move slightly. And this worked the right-hand thread off of the crank and today on the last hill into Moraga the left crank arm came off with my cleat still locked into the pedal. I walked it the rest of the way to the top of that hill and tried to re-attach the crank arm. Turns out that I had one of those one piece all-purpose tools that had one Allen large enough to get the crank screw started and about 2/3rds of the way in. Of course, it took me 20 minutes of messing about to get the thread started and to screw it in as far as I could with the wrong size Allen. That allowed me to go into town to the Ace Hardware and they had a box of "borrow" metric Allens that had one the correct size to tighten the crank nut my way.

Next time I'll know better than to use a torque wrench on an aluminum part. I had the same trouble with an aluminum on aluminum seatpost/seattube. I'll go back to my normal "as tight as it feels it should be".

Mechanical Failure?
 

On Tue, 1 Oct 2019 15:26:40 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

I've been using FSA 10 speed Gossamer (aluminum) cranks. I have never had any troubles with them except wearing out the rings. The latest ones are really good - they have a 30 mm shaft and the bolt pattern is 110 mm so that you can use 53/39, 52/36 or 50/34 ring sets.

I bought a set of the carbon fiber cranks but that was quite a time ago. They were barely lighter than the aluminum cranks and at two or three times the cost.

Now they are also making the new 4 arm cranks that weigh the same as the old carbon cranks did.

Andrew and someone else here having a discussion about always using the recommended torque to tighten the locking bolts and rather than use my usual "by feel" method I used the torque wrench and rode it that way.

The locking bolt is on the left side and it uses a normal right-hand thread. Well, the recommended torque allows the left arm to move slightly. And this worked the right-hand thread off of the crank and today on the last hill into Moraga the left crank arm came off with my cleat still locked into the pedal. I walked it the rest of the way to the top of that hill and tried to re-attach the crank arm. Turns out that I had one of those one piece all-purpose tools that had one Allen large enough to get the crank screw started and about 2/3rds of the way in. Of course, it took me 20 minutes of messing about to get the thread started and to screw it in as far as I could with the wrong size Allen. That allowed me to go into town to the Ace Hardware and they had a box of "borrow" metric Allens that had one the correct size to tighten the crank nut my way.

Next time I'll know better than to use a torque wrench on an aluminum part. I had the same trouble with an aluminum on aluminum seatpost/seattube. I'll go back to my normal "as tight as it feels it should be".

See:
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/en/sup...-recall-notice
--
cheers,

John B.

Mechanical Failure?
 

On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 4:53:53 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 1 Oct 2019 15:26:40 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

I've been using FSA 10 speed Gossamer (aluminum) cranks. I have never had any troubles with them except wearing out the rings. The latest ones are really good - they have a 30 mm shaft and the bolt pattern is 110 mm so that you can use 53/39, 52/36 or 50/34 ring sets.

I bought a set of the carbon fiber cranks but that was quite a time ago. They were barely lighter than the aluminum cranks and at two or three times the cost.

Now they are also making the new 4 arm cranks that weigh the same as the old carbon cranks did.

Andrew and someone else here having a discussion about always using the recommended torque to tighten the locking bolts and rather than use my usual "by feel" method I used the torque wrench and rode it that way.

The locking bolt is on the left side and it uses a normal right-hand thread. Well, the recommended torque allows the left arm to move slightly. And this worked the right-hand thread off of the crank and today on the last hill into Moraga the left crank arm came off with my cleat still locked into the pedal. I walked it the rest of the way to the top of that hill and tried to re-attach the crank arm. Turns out that I had one of those one piece all-purpose tools that had one Allen large enough to get the crank screw started and about 2/3rds of the way in. Of course, it took me 20 minutes of messing about to get the thread started and to screw it in as far as I could with the wrong size Allen. That allowed me to go into town to the Ace Hardware and they had a box of "borrow" metric Allens that had one the correct size to tighten the crank nut my way.

Next time I'll know better than to use a torque wrench on an aluminum part. I had the same trouble with an aluminum on aluminum seatpost/seattube. I'll go back to my normal "as tight as it feels it should be".

See:
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/en/sup...-recall-notice

FSA: "Failure Shortly Ahead" The stems are O.K. The pedal inserts on my CF crank cracked along with the adjacent crank arm. The wheels were terrible -- the spokes kept going slack. And, BTW, with aluminum, you really need to follow torque specs.

-- Jay Beattie.

Mechanical Failure?
 

On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 6:18:01 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 4:53:53 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 1 Oct 2019 15:26:40 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

I've been using FSA 10 speed Gossamer (aluminum) cranks. I have never had any troubles with them except wearing out the rings. The latest ones are really good - they have a 30 mm shaft and the bolt pattern is 110 mm so that you can use 53/39, 52/36 or 50/34 ring sets.

I bought a set of the carbon fiber cranks but that was quite a time ago. They were barely lighter than the aluminum cranks and at two or three times the cost.

Now they are also making the new 4 arm cranks that weigh the same as the old carbon cranks did.

Andrew and someone else here having a discussion about always using the recommended torque to tighten the locking bolts and rather than use my usual "by feel" method I used the torque wrench and rode it that way.

The locking bolt is on the left side and it uses a normal right-hand thread. Well, the recommended torque allows the left arm to move slightly. And this worked the right-hand thread off of the crank and today on the last hill into Moraga the left crank arm came off with my cleat still locked into the pedal. I walked it the rest of the way to the top of that hill and tried to re-attach the crank arm. Turns out that I had one of those one piece all-purpose tools that had one Allen large enough to get the crank screw started and about 2/3rds of the way in. Of course, it took me 20 minutes of messing about to get the thread started and to screw it in as far as I could with the wrong size Allen. That allowed me to go into town to the Ace Hardware and they had a box of "borrow" metric Allens that had one the correct size to tighten the crank nut my way.

Next time I'll know better than to use a torque wrench on an aluminum part. I had the same trouble with an aluminum on aluminum seatpost/seattube.. I'll go back to my normal "as tight as it feels it should be".

See:
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/en/sup...-recall-notice

FSA: "Failure Shortly Ahead" The stems are O.K. The pedal inserts on my CF crank cracked along with the adjacent crank arm. The wheels were terrible -- the spokes kept going slack. And, BTW, with aluminum, you really need to follow torque specs.

-- Jay Beattie.

I guess you can't read. I don't know about the FSA carbon cranks since I see no reports of them breaking. An example of one is meaningless.

Mechanical Failure?
 

On Wednesday, October 2, 2019 at 8:37:07 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 6:18:01 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 4:53:53 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 1 Oct 2019 15:26:40 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

I've been using FSA 10 speed Gossamer (aluminum) cranks. I have never had any troubles with them except wearing out the rings. The latest ones are really good - they have a 30 mm shaft and the bolt pattern is 110 mm so that you can use 53/39, 52/36 or 50/34 ring sets.

I bought a set of the carbon fiber cranks but that was quite a time ago. They were barely lighter than the aluminum cranks and at two or three times the cost.

Now they are also making the new 4 arm cranks that weigh the same as the old carbon cranks did.

Andrew and someone else here having a discussion about always using the recommended torque to tighten the locking bolts and rather than use my usual "by feel" method I used the torque wrench and rode it that way.

The locking bolt is on the left side and it uses a normal right-hand thread. Well, the recommended torque allows the left arm to move slightly. And this worked the right-hand thread off of the crank and today on the last hill into Moraga the left crank arm came off with my cleat still locked into the pedal. I walked it the rest of the way to the top of that hill and tried to re-attach the crank arm. Turns out that I had one of those one piece all-purpose tools that had one Allen large enough to get the crank screw started and about 2/3rds of the way in. Of course, it took me 20 minutes of messing about to get the thread started and to screw it in as far as I could with the wrong size Allen. That allowed me to go into town to the Ace Hardware and they had a box of "borrow" metric Allens that had one the correct size to tighten the crank nut my way.

Next time I'll know better than to use a torque wrench on an aluminum part. I had the same trouble with an aluminum on aluminum seatpost/seattube. I'll go back to my normal "as tight as it feels it should be".

See:
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/en/sup...-recall-notice

FSA: "Failure Shortly Ahead" The stems are O.K. The pedal inserts on my CF crank cracked along with the adjacent crank arm. The wheels were terrible -- the spokes kept going slack. And, BTW, with aluminum, you really need to follow torque specs.

-- Jay Beattie.

I guess you can't read. I don't know about the FSA carbon cranks since I see no reports of them breaking. An example of one is meaningless.

I guess you can't read the recall notice posted by JB. https://cpsc.gov/Recalls/2011/Full-S...o-Crash-Hazard Does that problem sound familiar?

Also, on a BB30 crank, looseness (lateral movement) means you need another shim and not that you have to wrench like a gorilla on the crank-arm fixing bolt. I would think with your massive brain, you would have known that -- and that you would know to follow manufacturer's torque specs.

-- Jay Beattie.

Mechanical Failure?
 

On Wednesday, October 2, 2019 at 1:31:32 PM UTC-4, jbeattie wrote:

Also, on a BB30 crank, looseness (lateral movement) means you need
another shim and not that you have to wrench like a gorilla on the
crank-arm fixing bolt.

Exactly what I was thinking when I read " the recommended torque allows the left arm to move slightly.". um...no, it doesn't, unless you're doing it wrong.

I would think with your massive brain, you would have known that --
and that you would know to follow manufacturer's torque specs.

As well as being smart enough to know that a crank arm had shouldn't have any play after assembly. Of course, this is the guy who couldn't figure out why he had binding chain links until Andrew told him to lube it.

-- Jay Beattie.

Mechanical Failure?
 

On Wednesday, October 2, 2019 at 10:31:32 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, October 2, 2019 at 8:37:07 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 6:18:01 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 4:53:53 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 1 Oct 2019 15:26:40 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

I've been using FSA 10 speed Gossamer (aluminum) cranks. I have never had any troubles with them except wearing out the rings. The latest ones are really good - they have a 30 mm shaft and the bolt pattern is 110 mm so that you can use 53/39, 52/36 or 50/34 ring sets.

I bought a set of the carbon fiber cranks but that was quite a time ago. They were barely lighter than the aluminum cranks and at two or three times the cost.

Now they are also making the new 4 arm cranks that weigh the same as the old carbon cranks did.

Andrew and someone else here having a discussion about always using the recommended torque to tighten the locking bolts and rather than use my usual "by feel" method I used the torque wrench and rode it that way.

The locking bolt is on the left side and it uses a normal right-hand thread. Well, the recommended torque allows the left arm to move slightly. And this worked the right-hand thread off of the crank and today on the last hill into Moraga the left crank arm came off with my cleat still locked into the pedal. I walked it the rest of the way to the top of that hill and tried to re-attach the crank arm. Turns out that I had one of those one piece all-purpose tools that had one Allen large enough to get the crank screw started and about 2/3rds of the way in. Of course, it took me 20 minutes of messing about to get the thread started and to screw it in as far as I could with the wrong size Allen. That allowed me to go into town to the Ace Hardware and they had a box of "borrow" metric Allens that had one the correct size to tighten the crank nut my way.

Next time I'll know better than to use a torque wrench on an aluminum part. I had the same trouble with an aluminum on aluminum seatpost/seattube. I'll go back to my normal "as tight as it feels it should be".

See:
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/en/sup...-recall-notice

FSA: "Failure Shortly Ahead" The stems are O.K. The pedal inserts on my CF crank cracked along with the adjacent crank arm. The wheels were terrible -- the spokes kept going slack. And, BTW, with aluminum, you really need to follow torque specs.

-- Jay Beattie.

I guess you can't read. I don't know about the FSA carbon cranks since I see no reports of them breaking. An example of one is meaningless.

I guess you can't read the recall notice posted by JB. https://cpsc.gov/Recalls/2011/Full-S...o-Crash-Hazard Does that problem sound familiar?

Also, on a BB30 crank, looseness (lateral movement) means you need another shim and not that you have to wrench like a gorilla on the crank-arm fixing bolt. I would think with your massive brain, you would have known that -- and that you would know to follow manufacturer's torque specs.

-- Jay Beattie.

The blue Loctite seems to have cured the problem. Though the stuff over-the-counter is not like the putty-like blue stuff that is applied at the factory. By all means you can follow the manufacturers torque suggestions and I will do it my way.

Mechanical Failure?
 

On Sunday, October 6, 2019 at 10:51:40 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, October 2, 2019 at 10:31:32 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, October 2, 2019 at 8:37:07 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 6:18:01 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 4:53:53 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 1 Oct 2019 15:26:40 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

I've been using FSA 10 speed Gossamer (aluminum) cranks. I have never had any troubles with them except wearing out the rings. The latest ones are really good - they have a 30 mm shaft and the bolt pattern is 110 mm so that you can use 53/39, 52/36 or 50/34 ring sets.

I bought a set of the carbon fiber cranks but that was quite a time ago. They were barely lighter than the aluminum cranks and at two or three times the cost.

Now they are also making the new 4 arm cranks that weigh the same as the old carbon cranks did.

Andrew and someone else here having a discussion about always using the recommended torque to tighten the locking bolts and rather than use my usual "by feel" method I used the torque wrench and rode it that way.

The locking bolt is on the left side and it uses a normal right-hand thread. Well, the recommended torque allows the left arm to move slightly. And this worked the right-hand thread off of the crank and today on the last hill into Moraga the left crank arm came off with my cleat still locked into the pedal. I walked it the rest of the way to the top of that hill and tried to re-attach the crank arm. Turns out that I had one of those one piece all-purpose tools that had one Allen large enough to get the crank screw started and about 2/3rds of the way in. Of course, it took me 20 minutes of messing about to get the thread started and to screw it in as far as I could with the wrong size Allen. That allowed me to go into town to the Ace Hardware and they had a box of "borrow" metric Allens that had one the correct size to tighten the crank nut my way.

Next time I'll know better than to use a torque wrench on an aluminum part. I had the same trouble with an aluminum on aluminum seatpost/seattube. I'll go back to my normal "as tight as it feels it should be".

See:
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/en/sup...-recall-notice

FSA: "Failure Shortly Ahead" The stems are O.K. The pedal inserts on my CF crank cracked along with the adjacent crank arm. The wheels were terrible -- the spokes kept going slack. And, BTW, with aluminum, you really need to follow torque specs.

-- Jay Beattie.

I guess you can't read. I don't know about the FSA carbon cranks since I see no reports of them breaking. An example of one is meaningless.

I guess you can't read the recall notice posted by JB. https://cpsc.gov/Recalls/2011/Full-S...o-Crash-Hazard Does that problem sound familiar?

Also, on a BB30 crank, looseness (lateral movement) means you need another shim and not that you have to wrench like a gorilla on the crank-arm fixing bolt. I would think with your massive brain, you would have known that -- and that you would know to follow manufacturer's torque specs.

-- Jay Beattie.

The blue Loctite seems to have cured the problem. Though the stuff over-the-counter is not like the putty-like blue stuff that is applied at the factory. By all means you can follow the manufacturers torque suggestions and I will do it my way.

You've probably munged the interface, and it will loosen again. IMO, you shouldn't have to use Loctite or any other kind of glue on a crank retaining bolt. If Loctite is needed, FSA should spec a steel bolt and a higher torque spec.

-- Jay Beattie.

Mechanical Failure?
 

On Sunday, October 6, 2019 at 1:54:47 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, October 6, 2019 at 10:51:40 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, October 2, 2019 at 10:31:32 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, October 2, 2019 at 8:37:07 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 6:18:01 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 4:53:53 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 1 Oct 2019 15:26:40 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

I've been using FSA 10 speed Gossamer (aluminum) cranks. I have never had any troubles with them except wearing out the rings. The latest ones are really good - they have a 30 mm shaft and the bolt pattern is 110 mm so that you can use 53/39, 52/36 or 50/34 ring sets.

I bought a set of the carbon fiber cranks but that was quite a time ago. They were barely lighter than the aluminum cranks and at two or three times the cost.

Now they are also making the new 4 arm cranks that weigh the same as the old carbon cranks did.

Andrew and someone else here having a discussion about always using the recommended torque to tighten the locking bolts and rather than use my usual "by feel" method I used the torque wrench and rode it that way.

The locking bolt is on the left side and it uses a normal right-hand thread. Well, the recommended torque allows the left arm to move slightly. And this worked the right-hand thread off of the crank and today on the last hill into Moraga the left crank arm came off with my cleat still locked into the pedal. I walked it the rest of the way to the top of that hill and tried to re-attach the crank arm. Turns out that I had one of those one piece all-purpose tools that had one Allen large enough to get the crank screw started and about 2/3rds of the way in. Of course, it took me 20 minutes of messing about to get the thread started and to screw it in as far as I could with the wrong size Allen. That allowed me to go into town to the Ace Hardware and they had a box of "borrow" metric Allens that had one the correct size to tighten the crank nut my way.

Next time I'll know better than to use a torque wrench on an aluminum part. I had the same trouble with an aluminum on aluminum seatpost/seattube. I'll go back to my normal "as tight as it feels it should be".

See:
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/en/sup...-recall-notice

FSA: "Failure Shortly Ahead" The stems are O.K. The pedal inserts on my CF crank cracked along with the adjacent crank arm. The wheels were terrible -- the spokes kept going slack. And, BTW, with aluminum, you really need to follow torque specs.

-- Jay Beattie.

I guess you can't read. I don't know about the FSA carbon cranks since I see no reports of them breaking. An example of one is meaningless.

I guess you can't read the recall notice posted by JB. https://cpsc.gov/Recalls/2011/Full-S...o-Crash-Hazard Does that problem sound familiar?

Also, on a BB30 crank, looseness (lateral movement) means you need another shim and not that you have to wrench like a gorilla on the crank-arm fixing bolt. I would think with your massive brain, you would have known that -- and that you would know to follow manufacturer's torque specs.

-- Jay Beattie.

The blue Loctite seems to have cured the problem. Though the stuff over-the-counter is not like the putty-like blue stuff that is applied at the factory. By all means you can follow the manufacturers torque suggestions and I will do it my way.

You've probably munged the interface, and it will loosen again. IMO, you shouldn't have to use Loctite or any other kind of glue on a crank retaining bolt. If Loctite is needed, FSA should spec a steel bolt and a higher torque spec.

-- Jay Beattie.

You don't think I should use Loctite but the crank screw is on the left hand side of the crank and is normal right-hand threads meaning it cannot be held tight without Loctite and with which the new cranksets come already applied?

Jay - where are you coming from?

Mechanical Failure?
 

On Sunday, October 6, 2019 at 2:12:41 PM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Sunday, October 6, 2019 at 1:54:47 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, October 6, 2019 at 10:51:40 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, October 2, 2019 at 10:31:32 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, October 2, 2019 at 8:37:07 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 6:18:01 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, October 1, 2019 at 4:53:53 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 1 Oct 2019 15:26:40 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

I've been using FSA 10 speed Gossamer (aluminum) cranks. I have never had any troubles with them except wearing out the rings. The latest ones are really good - they have a 30 mm shaft and the bolt pattern is 110 mm so that you can use 53/39, 52/36 or 50/34 ring sets.

I bought a set of the carbon fiber cranks but that was quite a time ago. They were barely lighter than the aluminum cranks and at two or three times the cost.

Now they are also making the new 4 arm cranks that weigh the same as the old carbon cranks did.

Andrew and someone else here having a discussion about always using the recommended torque to tighten the locking bolts and rather than use my usual "by feel" method I used the torque wrench and rode it that way.

The locking bolt is on the left side and it uses a normal right-hand thread. Well, the recommended torque allows the left arm to move slightly. And this worked the right-hand thread off of the crank and today on the last hill into Moraga the left crank arm came off with my cleat still locked into the pedal. I walked it the rest of the way to the top of that hill and tried to re-attach the crank arm. Turns out that I had one of those one piece all-purpose tools that had one Allen large enough to get the crank screw started and about 2/3rds of the way in. Of course, it took me 20 minutes of messing about to get the thread started and to screw it in as far as I could with the wrong size Allen. That allowed me to go into town to the Ace Hardware and they had a box of "borrow" metric Allens that had one the correct size to tighten the crank nut my way.

Next time I'll know better than to use a torque wrench on an aluminum part. I had the same trouble with an aluminum on aluminum seatpost/seattube. I'll go back to my normal "as tight as it feels it should be".

See:
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/en/sup...-recall-notice

FSA: "Failure Shortly Ahead" The stems are O.K. The pedal inserts on my CF crank cracked along with the adjacent crank arm. The wheels were terrible -- the spokes kept going slack. And, BTW, with aluminum, you really need to follow torque specs.

-- Jay Beattie.

I guess you can't read. I don't know about the FSA carbon cranks since I see no reports of them breaking. An example of one is meaningless.

I guess you can't read the recall notice posted by JB. https://cpsc..gov/Recalls/2011/Full-...o-Crash-Hazard Does that problem sound familiar?

Also, on a BB30 crank, looseness (lateral movement) means you need another shim and not that you have to wrench like a gorilla on the crank-arm fixing bolt. I would think with your massive brain, you would have known that -- and that you would know to follow manufacturer's torque specs.

-- Jay Beattie.

The blue Loctite seems to have cured the problem. Though the stuff over-the-counter is not like the putty-like blue stuff that is applied at the factory. By all means you can follow the manufacturers torque suggestions and I will do it my way.

You've probably munged the interface, and it will loosen again. IMO, you shouldn't have to use Loctite or any other kind of glue on a crank retaining bolt. If Loctite is needed, FSA should spec a steel bolt and a higher torque spec.

-- Jay Beattie.

You don't think I should use Loctite but the crank screw is on the left hand side of the crank and is normal right-hand threads meaning it cannot be held tight without Loctite and with which the new cranksets come already applied?

Jay - where are you coming from?

Where are you coming from? The right/left hand thread issue has to do with bearing precession and is a design consideration for bottom brackets not crank/axle interfaces. The last time I checked, there are no bearings in the crank/axle interface. Ordinary right-hand thread has been used on BOTH SIDES of cotterless cranks since forever -- without Loctite.

-- Jay Beattie.