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Minnesota Winters
On Dec 12, 8:56*am, "Jeff Grippe" wrote:
I think that Tucson is rated #3 in some lists of top cities for cyclist. Seattle, I believe, is #1 but I personally couldn't take the climate. With all my various broken and repaired parts, I need dry. I understand that Seattle is a fantastic place to live but its just not for me. Portland, I've heard is also quite good but I have the same climate problems. So when I'm ready to leave NY, I think I'll head to Tucson. - Show quoted text - I live in Seattle and moved here from Tucson. I can say that I would rather ride bikes in Tucson for any one of a number of reasons. Tucson streets are much wider even if there isn't a bike lane than Seattle streets. Tucson is also much flatter than Seattle if you want it, but you can still get hills if you want as well. The USPS Team trains there climbing Mt Lemon. Tucson has less rain, but when it is raining, I'd rather be in Seattle. The rain in Tucson is monsoon as a rule, and is usually well over 1" an hour, whereas Seattle is pouring if it is more than 1/2" an hour. Not to mention there is drainage for regular rain in Seattle in the streets, but none in Tucson. Then there is the sun and abundence of amazing Mexican food in Tucson. I'll take the Tucson drivers too. Chris |
Minnesota Winters
Jeff Grippe wrote:
I live in Seattle and moved here from Tucson. I can say that I would rather ride bikes in Tucson for any one of a number of reasons. Tucson streets are much wider even if there isn't a bike lane than Seattle streets. Tucson is also much flatter than Seattle if you want it, but you can still get hills if you want as well. The USPS Team trains there climbing Mt Lemon. Tucson has less rain, but when it is raining, I'd rather be in Seattle. The rain in Tucson is monsoon as a rule, and is usually well over 1" an hour, whereas Seattle is pouring if it is more than 1/2" an hour. Not to mention there is drainage for regular rain in Seattle in the streets, but none in Tucson. Then there is the sun and abundence of amazing Mexican food in Tucson. I'll take the Tucson drivers too. I spent several years in Seattle before returning to my hometown of Austin. My impression of cycling in the two cities is thus: It's generally easier and better to ride bike in Austin. The terrain is a lot more forgiving and the weather is loads better. But a lot more people ride bike in Seattle, so all the social infrastructure is better sorted out-- bike shops, bike clubs, bike events. There are better bike paths around town. Even the car drivers in Seattle are more prepared to deal with cyclists. It's a funny coincidence that Austin and Seattle receive almost the same amount of precipitation per year. Seattle gets it spread out over 200 days or so. Austin seems to receive just a small handful of awe-inspiring biblical deluges per year. When I moved to Seattle, I was struck by how poorly worked out the street drainage was. In the flatter areas it is common to have water pool up in the street. If Austin had Seattle's storm drainage, people would die as a result. The Mexican food situation in Seattle is dreary, but the Vietnamese and Ethiopian food can't be beat. Don't waste the opportunity. These are cuisines that few cities get exactly right. If you ride the Burke-Gilman trail up to Bothell, surprisingly there are a couple of decent Mexican restaurants right around where the B-G ends and the Lake Sammamish Trail takes up. El Quetzal on Beacon Ave is another excellent place to scratch your Mexican food itch. Chalo |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 13, 1:45*am, Chalo wrote:
Jeff Grippe wrote: I live in Seattle and moved here from Tucson. I can say that I would rather ride bikes in Tucson for any one of a number of reasons. Tucson streets are much wider even if there isn't a bike lane than Seattle streets. Tucson is also much flatter than Seattle if you want it, but you can still get hills if you want as well. The USPS Team trains there climbing Mt Lemon. Tucson has less rain, but when it is raining, I'd rather be in Seattle. The rain in Tucson is monsoon as a rule, and is usually well over 1" an hour, whereas Seattle is pouring if it is more than 1/2" an hour. Not to mention there is drainage for regular rain in Seattle in the streets, but none in Tucson. Then there is the sun and abundence of amazing Mexican food in Tucson. I'll take the Tucson drivers too. I spent several years in Seattle before returning to my hometown of Austin. *My impression of cycling in the two cities is thus: *It's generally easier and better to ride bike in Austin. *The terrain is a lot more forgiving and the weather is loads better. *But a lot more people ride bike in Seattle, so all the social infrastructure is better sorted out-- bike shops, bike clubs, bike events. *There are better bike paths around town. *Even the car drivers in Seattle are more prepared to deal with cyclists. It's a funny coincidence that Austin and Seattle receive almost the same amount of precipitation per year. *Seattle gets it spread out over 200 days or so. *Austin seems to receive just a small handful of awe-inspiring biblical deluges per year. *When I moved to Seattle, I was struck by how poorly worked out the street drainage was. *In the flatter areas it is common to have water pool up in the street. *If Austin had Seattle's storm drainage, people would die as a result. The Mexican food situation in Seattle is dreary, but the Vietnamese and Ethiopian food can't be beat. *Don't waste the opportunity. *These are cuisines that few cities get exactly right. If you ride the Burke-Gilman trail up to Bothell, surprisingly there are a couple of decent Mexican restaurants right around where the B-G ends and the Lake Sammamish Trail takes up. *El Quetzal on Beacon Ave is another excellent place to scratch your Mexican food itch. What about the heat in Tucson? I have some experience riding in the desert and found that it was impossible to ride in the summer sun, but I'm not a big heat person, either. I don't like Seattle because of the traffic; it is nice city to visit, but the weather is even more dreary than PDX. I was raised in the south SF Bay (Los Gatos), which has the perfect weather and some of the best riding anywhere. I visit fairly frequently, but I am always happy to get back to PDX for some reason. I have grown accustomed to the seasons and all the trees and the pace of life. It's nice to be back in the Republic of Portland with all the bohemian wage earners and not a Ferrari in sight. Plus, I get to go skiing every weekend -- starting probably next week, assuming no problems with my new metal-filled leg. And as for Mexican food, we got it, and if it has to be uber-authentic, you go down to one of those joints in Woodburn where you're the only anglo in the place. -- Jay Beattie. |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 13, 9:59*am, Jay Beattie wrote:
What about the heat in Tucson? - Show quoted text - In winter, it ranges between 60's during the day, to 40's or colder at night. It's still very dry, so it is important to stay hydrated. Chris |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 14, 12:26*am, Chris wrote:
On Dec 13, 9:59*am, Jay Beattie wrote: What about the heat in Tucson? - Show quoted text - In winter, it ranges between 60's during the day, to 40's or colder at night. It's still very dry, so it is important to stay hydrated. Chris Sh--. High of 9 F today. Low of 5 below F. And there is a whole row or two of states north of me so its almost balmy here. |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 15, 12:09*pm, "
wrote: On Dec 14, 12:26*am, Chris wrote: On Dec 13, 9:59*am, Jay Beattie wrote: What about the heat in Tucson? - Show quoted text - In winter, it ranges between 60's during the day, to 40's or colder at night. It's still very dry, so it is important to stay hydrated. Chris Sh--. *High of 9 F today. *Low of 5 below F. *And there is a whole row or two of states north of me so its almost balmy here. I feel for you, really. We got snow over the weekend and are in the middle of a cold snap -- but no where near single digits F. The snow is only an inch or two downtown and has been reduced to sheet ice in many places. I rode to work on my cross bike and had to get off and walk in a couple of spots. I am going to have to pick my way home until I get off the main roads and in to the hills. I can't gain too much elevation, or else I'll be sledding home. I'm probably going to have to drive tomorrow or take the bus. On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. Should have used my anti-seize! Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. -- Jay Beattie. |
Minnesota Winters
Jay Beattie wrote:
I feel for you, really. We got snow over the weekend and are in the middle of a cold snap -- but no where near single digits F. The snow is only an inch or two downtown and has been reduced to sheet ice in many places. I rode to work on my cross bike and had to get off and walk in a couple of spots. I am going to have to pick my way home until I get off the main roads and in to the hills. I can't gain too much elevation, or else I'll be sledding home. I'm probably going to have to drive tomorrow or take the bus. On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, [...] Heh. Last night I put on my /bike/ snow wheels. Nokians work great: http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/nokian106.htm Tomorrow I gotta try a bit lower pressure, though. On the bike/ped bridge facility, the footprints make hard-sided craters that you really bounce through. Crossing the bridge is quite a pounding. Mark J. - 50 miles south of Jay, with a lot less snow. |
Minnesota Winters
In article
, " wrote: On Dec 14, 12:26*am, Chris wrote: On Dec 13, 9:59*am, Jay Beattie wrote: What about the heat in Tucson? - Show quoted text - In winter, it ranges between 60's during the day, to 40's or colder at night. It's still very dry, so it is important to stay hydrated. Chris Sh--. High of 9 F today. Low of 5 below F. And there is a whole row or two of states north of me so its almost balmy here. -1F for the high today, -14F predicted for the low tonight, and the cold part of the winter yet to come. Ed and I have finally found something to agree on. Minnesota winters suck. |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 15, 9:12*pm, Tim McNamara wrote:
In article , " wrote: On Dec 14, 12:26*am, Chris wrote: On Dec 13, 9:59*am, Jay Beattie wrote: What about the heat in Tucson? - Show quoted text - In winter, it ranges between 60's during the day, to 40's or colder at night. It's still very dry, so it is important to stay hydrated. Chris Sh--. *High of 9 F today. *Low of 5 below F. *And there is a whole row or two of states north of me so its almost balmy here. -1F for the high today, -14F predicted for the low tonight, and the cold part of the winter yet to come. *Ed and I have finally found something to agree on. *Minnesota winters suck. It kills the bugs |
Minnesota Winters
Jorg Lueke wrote:
Tim McNamara wrote: -1F for the high today, -14F predicted for the low tonight, and the cold part of the winter yet to come. *Ed and I have finally found something to agree on. *Minnesota winters suck. It kills the bugs Here in Austin, we use Mexican Free-tailed bats for that. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Congress_Avenue_Bridge Chalo |
Minnesota Winters
In article
, Chalo wrote: Jorg Lueke wrote: Tim McNamara wrote: -1F for the high today, -14F predicted for the low tonight, and the cold part of the winter yet to come. *Ed and I have finally found something to agree on. *Minnesota winters suck. It kills the bugs Here in Austin, we use Mexican Free-tailed bats for that. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Congress_Avenue_Bridge Chalo hey, that's pretty cool! In the Contented People's Republic of Illinois, it was 7F today, with very much ice on everything. I wouldn't want to have had to walk on what i rode over. Hazardous for walking, the sheets of ice were crudittes* for my Nokian's. ..max *chicken nuggets in French -- This signature can be appended to your outgoing mesages. Many people include in their signatures contact information, and perhaps a joke or quotation. |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 15, 5:38*pm, Mark wrote:
Jay Beattie wrote: I feel for you, really. *We got snow over the weekend and are in the middle of a cold snap -- but no where near single digits F. The snow is only an inch or two downtown and has been reduced to sheet ice in many places. I rode to work on my cross bike and had to get off and walk in a couple of spots. I am going to have to pick my way home until I get off the main roads and in to the hills. *I can't gain too much elevation, or else I'll be sledding home. I'm probably going to have to drive tomorrow or take the bus. On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, [...] Heh. *Last night I put on my /bike/ snow wheels. *Nokians work great:http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/nokian106.htm Tomorrow I gotta try a bit lower pressure, though. *On the bike/ped bridge facility, the footprints make hard-sided craters that you really bounce through. *Crossing the bridge is quite a pounding. Mark J. - 50 miles south of Jay, with a lot less snow. Hey, I made it home last night on the sheet ice without any major crashes, but I decided to take the plunge and buy some cheap studs (Innova) from Bike Tires Direct (over near the airport) -- and after my super-duper VIP discount, they were only about $26 a tire, which I thought was not too terrible, even if I only use them a few times a year. Beautiful blue skies today, but It's supposed to snow again tomorrow, so I'll be really, really ready this time. Last night, some guy yelled at me that I was supposed to be using chains. I assume he was joking, but with all schoolmarmish behavior towards bicyclists around here, I'm not quite sure. For you people who see real winter weather, you would get a laugh out of the drivers in PDX who panic over an inch or three of snow. The place practically shuts down, and it turns to weather hysteria on the local news channels.-- Jay Beattie. |
Minnesota Winters
There's more cold to winter in other places for which Carl Fogel
kindly found some URl's for a couple of ice.pps files that I had in my collection of weather phenomena: http://www.elanguages.org/files/42213 http://www.tom-phillips.info/powerpo...e.festival.pps Jobst Brandt |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 16, 4:24*pm, A Muzi wrote:
wrote: There's more cold to winter in other places for which Carl Fogel kindly found some URl's for a couple of ice.pps files that I had in my collection of weather phenomena: *http://www.elanguages.org/files/42213 *http://www.tom-phillips.info/powerpo...ow.ice.festiva... Jobst Brandt Winter riding you say? Make your travel arrangements now for the 2009 New Year's Ride:http://www.yellowjersey.org/ny8.html High Noon. No reservations, no registration fee, show-n-go. -- Andrew Muzi * www.yellowjersey.org/ * Open every day since 1 April, 1971 ** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com** Hey, Portland looked just like that (minus the snow drifts) on Monday -- but with more ice patches. I got those Innova studs. That's a lot of rubber -- they weigh about two pounds apiece. I'm going to give them a whirl in the much anticipated snow storm tomorrow. --- Jay Beattie. |
Minnesota Winters
On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote:
snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. Should have used my anti-seize! Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 17, 7:41*am, jim beam wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. *Should have used my anti-seize! *Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. *a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 17, 6:08*am, "
wrote: On Dec 17, 7:41*am, jim beam wrote: On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. *Should have used my anti-seize! *Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. *a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. *Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. Anyway, I rode to work on my new, cheap-o Innova ice tires today. Not going to win any races on those fatties, but, wow, they really do work well on ice. I was getting a little too cocky and almost wiped out. They are not good on dry pavement, though. They squirm and float quite a bit, and the tread is not that straight -- or else it looks crooked because the tires are slowly blowing off my svelt Open Pros. That happened when I was blowing one up, but the tube is so beefy that at 60psi, a 4" section just bulged out and sat there. It's near white-out looking out my office window, so I guess I will have plenty of fresh snow and ice for the ride home.-- Jay Beattie. .. |
Minnesota Winters
"Jay Beattie" wrote in message
... On Dec 17, 6:08 am, " wrote: On Dec 17, 7:41 am, jim beam wrote: On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. Should have used my anti-seize! Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. My 4lb club hammer was bought specifically to remove a wheel from my car. I'd tried the 1lb one, no joy, no matter how hard I went at it. 4lb one, smack, wheel off. |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 17, 1:59*pm, Jay Beattie wrote:
On Dec 17, 6:08*am, " wrote: On Dec 17, 7:41*am, jim beam wrote: On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. *Should have used my anti-seize! *Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. *a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. *Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. *I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. *Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. *That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. Anyway, I rode to work on my new, cheap-o Innova ice tires today. *Not going to win any races on those fatties, but, wow, they really do work well on ice. *I was getting a little too cocky and almost wiped out. They are not good on dry pavement, though. *They squirm and float quite a bit, and the tread is not that straight -- or else it looks crooked because the tires are slowly blowing off my svelt Open Pros. That happened when I was blowing one up, but the tube is so beefy that at 60psi, a 4" section just bulged out and sat there. *It's *near white-out looking out my office window, so I guess I will have plenty of fresh snow and ice for the ride home.-- Jay Beattie. .- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm using my new Schwalbe Marathon Winter 700x35 studded tires. They ride perfectly fine on dry pavement. In loose snow, such as on the side of the road after the cars have pounded it for awhile, they can get squirrely. Ice or dry pavement, great traction. They are slower than regular tires. Partly because I only put 35 psi in them to allow them to flatten out as much as possible and get all 4 rows of studs in contact with the ground. http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marat...9551993&sr=1-2 http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 17, 2:15*pm, "
wrote: On Dec 17, 1:59*pm, Jay Beattie wrote: On Dec 17, 6:08*am, " wrote: On Dec 17, 7:41*am, jim beam wrote: On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. *Should have used my anti-seize! *Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. *a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. *Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. *I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. *Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. *That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. Anyway, I rode to work on my new, cheap-o Innova ice tires today. *Not going to win any races on those fatties, but, wow, they really do work well on ice. *I was getting a little too cocky and almost wiped out. They are not good on dry pavement, though. *They squirm and float quite a bit, and the tread is not that straight -- or else it looks crooked because the tires are slowly blowing off my svelt Open Pros. That happened when I was blowing one up, but the tube is so beefy that at 60psi, a 4" section just bulged out and sat there. *It's *near white-out looking out my office window, so I guess I will have plenty of fresh snow and ice for the ride home.-- Jay Beattie. .- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm using my new Schwalbe Marathon Winter 700x35 studded tires. *They ride perfectly fine on dry pavement. *In loose snow, such as on the side of the road after the cars have pounded it for awhile, they can get squirrely. *Ice or dry pavement, great traction. *They are slower than regular tires. *Partly because I only put 35 psi in them to allow them to flatten out as much as possible and get all 4 rows of studs in contact with the ground. http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marat...ck/dp/B00113L8... http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Those Schwalbe look mighty nice (I have the Schwalbe Blizzards on this bike for ordinary riding), but they are two to three times the price I paid for my beater Innovas. If I lived in Minnesota, I might make the investment. Bike Tires Direct has a whole slew of ice tires including the Schwalbe. http://www.biketiresdirect.com/searc...?ss=330&cat=su I just felt that in these tough economic times, I should support Chinese industry. And melamine gives me added grip on ice. -- Jay Beattie. |
Minnesota Winters
"Jay Beattie" wrote in message ... On Dec 17, 2:15 pm, " wrote: On Dec 17, 1:59 pm, Jay Beattie wrote: On Dec 17, 6:08 am, " wrote: On Dec 17, 7:41 am, jim beam wrote: On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. Should have used my anti-seize! Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. Anyway, I rode to work on my new, cheap-o Innova ice tires today. Not going to win any races on those fatties, but, wow, they really do work well on ice. I was getting a little too cocky and almost wiped out. They are not good on dry pavement, though. They squirm and float quite a bit, and the tread is not that straight -- or else it looks crooked because the tires are slowly blowing off my svelt Open Pros. That happened when I was blowing one up, but the tube is so beefy that at 60psi, a 4" section just bulged out and sat there. It's near white-out looking out my office window, so I guess I will have plenty of fresh snow and ice for the ride home.-- Jay Beattie. .- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm using my new Schwalbe Marathon Winter 700x35 studded tires. They ride perfectly fine on dry pavement. In loose snow, such as on the side of the road after the cars have pounded it for awhile, they can get squirrely. Ice or dry pavement, great traction. They are slower than regular tires. Partly because I only put 35 psi in them to allow them to flatten out as much as possible and get all 4 rows of studs in contact with the ground. http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marat...ck/dp/B00113L8... http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Those Schwalbe look mighty nice (I have the Schwalbe Blizzards on this bike for ordinary riding), but they are two to three times the price I paid for my beater Innovas. If I lived in Minnesota, I might make the investment. Bike Tires Direct has a whole slew of ice tires including the Schwalbe. http://www.biketiresdirect.com/searc...?ss=330&cat=su I just felt that in these tough economic times, I should support Chinese industry. And melamine gives me added grip on ice. -- Jay Beattie. Jay, "...slew of ice tires..." gave me a good laugh, thanks, Kerry |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 17, 3:25*pm, "Kerry Montgomery" wrote:
"Jay Beattie" wrote in message ... On Dec 17, 2:15 pm, " wrote: On Dec 17, 1:59 pm, Jay Beattie wrote: On Dec 17, 6:08 am, " wrote: On Dec 17, 7:41 am, jim beam wrote: On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. Should have used my anti-seize! Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. Anyway, I rode to work on my new, cheap-o Innova ice tires today. Not going to win any races on those fatties, but, wow, they really do work well on ice. I was getting a little too cocky and almost wiped out. They are not good on dry pavement, though. They squirm and float quite a bit, and the tread is not that straight -- or else it looks crooked because the tires are slowly blowing off my svelt Open Pros. That happened when I was blowing one up, but the tube is so beefy that at 60psi, a 4" section just bulged out and sat there. It's near white-out looking out my office window, so I guess I will have plenty of fresh snow and ice for the ride home.-- Jay Beattie. .- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm using my new Schwalbe Marathon Winter 700x35 studded tires. They ride perfectly fine on dry pavement. In loose snow, such as on the side of the road after the cars have pounded it for awhile, they can get squirrely. Ice or dry pavement, great traction. They are slower than regular tires. Partly because I only put 35 psi in them to allow them to flatten out as much as possible and get all 4 rows of studs in contact with the ground. http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marat...ck/dp/B00113L8... http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp-Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Those Schwalbe look mighty nice (I have the Schwalbe Blizzards on this bike for ordinary riding), but they are two to three times the price I paid for my beater Innovas. *If I lived in Minnesota, I might make the investment. Bike Tires Direct has a whole slew of ice tires including the Schwalbe.http://www.biketiresdirect.com/searc...?ss=330&cat=su I just felt that in these tough economic times, I should support Chinese industry. And melamine gives me added grip on ice. -- Jay Beattie. Jay, "...slew of ice tires..." gave me a good laugh, thanks, Kerry- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Not a slew? Hey, I was happy they had two for me. Those tires were great for riding home tonight in the epic snow storm (which seemed a lot like the usual rain storm). News at 6,7,8,9,10 . . . -- Jay Beattie. |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 17, 4:31*pm, Jay Beattie wrote:
On Dec 17, 2:15*pm, " wrote: On Dec 17, 1:59*pm, Jay Beattie wrote: On Dec 17, 6:08*am, " wrote: On Dec 17, 7:41*am, jim beam wrote: On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. *Should have used my anti-seize! *Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. *a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. *Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. *I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. *Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. *That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. Anyway, I rode to work on my new, cheap-o Innova ice tires today. *Not going to win any races on those fatties, but, wow, they really do work well on ice. *I was getting a little too cocky and almost wiped out.. They are not good on dry pavement, though. *They squirm and float quite a bit, and the tread is not that straight -- or else it looks crooked because the tires are slowly blowing off my svelt Open Pros. That happened when I was blowing one up, but the tube is so beefy that at 60psi, a 4" section just bulged out and sat there. *It's *near white-out looking out my office window, so I guess I will have plenty of fresh snow and ice for the ride home.-- Jay Beattie. .- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm using my new Schwalbe Marathon Winter 700x35 studded tires. *They ride perfectly fine on dry pavement. *In loose snow, such as on the side of the road after the cars have pounded it for awhile, they can get squirrely. *Ice or dry pavement, great traction. *They are slower than regular tires. *Partly because I only put 35 psi in them to allow them to flatten out as much as possible and get all 4 rows of studs in contact with the ground. http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marat...ck/dp/B00113L8... http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp-Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Those Schwalbe look mighty nice (I have the Schwalbe Blizzards on this bike for ordinary riding), but they are two to three times the price I paid for my beater Innovas. *If I lived in Minnesota, I might make the investment. Bike Tires Direct has a whole slew of ice tires including the Schwalbe.http://www.biketiresdirect.com/searc...?ss=330&cat=su I just felt that in these tough economic times, I should support Chinese industry. And melamine gives me added grip on ice. -- Jay Beattie.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Twice the price. But over twice the studs. 240 compared to 110. Carbide instead of carbon steel. They are the most expensive bike tires I've ever bought. |
Minnesota Winters
On Dec 18, 8:42*am, "
wrote: On Dec 17, 4:31*pm, Jay Beattie wrote: On Dec 17, 2:15*pm, " wrote: On Dec 17, 1:59*pm, Jay Beattie wrote: On Dec 17, 6:08*am, " wrote: On Dec 17, 7:41*am, jim beam wrote: On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. *Should have used my anti-seize! *Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. *a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. *Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. *I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. *Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. *That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. Anyway, I rode to work on my new, cheap-o Innova ice tires today. *Not going to win any races on those fatties, but, wow, they really do work well on ice. *I was getting a little too cocky and almost wiped out. They are not good on dry pavement, though. *They squirm and float quite a bit, and the tread is not that straight -- or else it looks crooked because the tires are slowly blowing off my svelt Open Pros.. That happened when I was blowing one up, but the tube is so beefy that at 60psi, a 4" section just bulged out and sat there. *It's *near white-out looking out my office window, so I guess I will have plenty of fresh snow and ice for the ride home.-- Jay Beattie. .- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm using my new Schwalbe Marathon Winter 700x35 studded tires. *They ride perfectly fine on dry pavement. *In loose snow, such as on the side of the road after the cars have pounded it for awhile, they can get squirrely. *Ice or dry pavement, great traction. *They are slower than regular tires. *Partly because I only put 35 psi in them to allow them to flatten out as much as possible and get all 4 rows of studs in contact with the ground. http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marat...ck/dp/B00113L8.... http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/stud...asp-Hidequoted text - - Show quoted text - Those Schwalbe look mighty nice (I have the Schwalbe Blizzards on this bike for ordinary riding), but they are two to three times the price I paid for my beater Innovas. *If I lived in Minnesota, I might make the investment. Bike Tires Direct has a whole slew of ice tires including the Schwalbe.http://www.biketiresdirect.com/searc...?ss=330&cat=su I just felt that in these tough economic times, I should support Chinese industry. And melamine gives me added grip on ice. -- Jay Beattie.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Twice the price. *But over twice the studs. *240 compared to 110. Carbide instead of carbon steel. *They are the most expensive bike tires I've ever bought.- Hide quoted text - The steel quality is important, although I'll be dead before I wear these things out with the number of days per year I expect to use them. I think carbide would be a must have in Minnesota. What I wonder about and could read-up on (if I were to move to Minnesota) is tread pattern and stud number. Some of the Nokians have less studs than my Innovas, and the Schwalbes and other Nokians have more studs but a less aggressive tread pattern. Peter White explains some of these design choices and gives reasons for choosing one design over another -- and a serious purchaser would really have to think about where, when and how he or she intends to ride. I would also be curious to find out what tire has the best float in slush and till, since that is where I have most of my troubles on the Innovas. Ice is no problem, and on packed snow, I could ride my regular Hutchinson cross tires. In the till, though, I fish-tail badly, which is disconcerting with cars passing nearby. -- Jay Beattie. |
Minnesota Winters
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Minnesota Winters
On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:52:56 +0000, Clive George wrote:
"Jay Beattie" wrote in message ... On Dec 17, 6:08 am, " wrote: On Dec 17, 7:41 am, jim beam wrote: On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. Should have used my anti-seize! Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. My 4lb club hammer was bought specifically to remove a wheel from my car. I'd tried the 1lb one, no joy, no matter how hard I went at it. 4lb one, smack, wheel off. smack. brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage anything. |
Minnesota Winters
In article
, Jay Beattie wrote: On Dec 18, 8:42*am, " wrote: On Dec 17, 4:31*pm, Jay Beattie wrote: On Dec 17, 2:15*pm, " wrote: On Dec 17, 1:59*pm, Jay Beattie wrote: On Dec 17, 6:08*am, " wrote: On Dec 17, 7:41*am, jim beam wrote: On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. *Should have used my anti-seize! *Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. *a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. *Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. *I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. *Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. *That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. Anyway, I rode to work on my new, cheap-o Innova ice tires today. *Not going to win any races on those fatties, but, wow, they really do work well on ice. *I was getting a little too cocky and almost wiped out. They are not good on dry pavement, though. *They squirm and float quite a bit, and the tread is not that straight -- or else it looks crooked because the tires are slowly blowing off my svelt Open Pros. That happened when I was blowing one up, but the tube is so beefy that at 60psi, a 4" section just bulged out and sat there. *It's *near white-out looking out my office window, so I guess I will have plenty of fresh snow and ice for the ride home.-- Jay Beattie. .- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm using my new Schwalbe Marathon Winter 700x35 studded tires. *They ride perfectly fine on dry pavement. *In loose snow, such as on the side of the road after the cars have pounded it for awhile, they can get squirrely. *Ice or dry pavement, great traction. *They are slower than regular tires. *Partly because I only put 35 psi in them to allow them to flatten out as much as possible and get all 4 rows of studs in contact with the ground. http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marat...-Black/dp/B001 13L8... http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/stud...asp-Hidequoted text - - Show quoted text - Those Schwalbe look mighty nice (I have the Schwalbe Blizzards on this bike for ordinary riding), but they are two to three times the price I paid for my beater Innovas. *If I lived in Minnesota, I might make the investment. Bike Tires Direct has a whole slew of ice tires including the Schwalbe.http://www.biketiresdirect.com/searc...ts.asp?ss=330& cat=su I just felt that in these tough economic times, I should support Chinese industry. And melamine gives me added grip on ice. -- Jay Beattie.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Twice the price. *But over twice the studs. *240 compared to 110. Carbide instead of carbon steel. *They are the most expensive bike tires I've ever bought.- Hide quoted text - The steel quality is important, although I'll be dead before I wear these things out with the number of days per year I expect to use them. I think carbide would be a must have in Minnesota There are other options, such as the famed "Gossamer Walrus:" http://www.velomobiling.com/gallery/...s/IceBike2007/ With video: http://velomobiling.blogspot.com/200...ce-biking.html http://www.calhouncycle.com/events/i...01icehome.html |
Minnesota Winters
"jim beam" wrote in message
... actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. My 4lb club hammer was bought specifically to remove a wheel from my car. I'd tried the 1lb one, no joy, no matter how hard I went at it. 4lb one, smack, wheel off. smack. brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage anything. And what sort of loads + impacts do the bearings get in normal use? What impacts do they get when you're driving around with loose nuts? You're raising bogus worries. |
Minnesota Winters
In article ,
"Clive George" wrote: "jim beam" wrote in message ... actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. My 4lb club hammer was bought specifically to remove a wheel from my car. I'd tried the 1lb one, no joy, no matter how hard I went at it. 4lb one, smack, wheel off. smack. brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage anything. And what sort of loads + impacts do the bearings get in normal use? What impacts do they get when you're driving around with loose nuts? You're raising bogus worries. Not our jim! |
Bearing damage?
"jim beam" wrote:
On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:52:56 +0000, Clive George wrote: "Jay Beattie" wrote in message ... On Dec 17, 6:08 am, " wrote: On Dec 17, 7:41 am, jim beam wrote: On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote: snip for clarity On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. Should have used my anti-seize! Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but finally got it done. actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. My 4lb club hammer was bought specifically to remove a wheel from my car. I'd tried the 1lb one, no joy, no matter how hard I went at it. 4lb one, smack, wheel off. smack. brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage anything. How come bottom bracket bearing do NOT have this problem when a hammer is used to drive cotter pins in [1] and out on cranks? [1] No, tightening is NOT done with the nut with attaching a cottered crank. -- Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007 LOCAL CACTUS EATS CYCLIST - datakoll |
Bearing damage?
In article ,
Tom Sherman writes: smack. brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage anything. How come bottom bracket bearing do NOT have this problem when a hammer is used to drive cotter pins in [1] and out on cranks? [1] No, tightening is NOT done with the nut with attaching a cottered crank. When cotter pins have to be pounded in, there's something horribly wrong. It usually happens from the bike shop who doesn't quite have the exact match of what you require, and gives you what they consider the next closest thing. It's an all too common occurance. Anyways, bearings get ruined by being used dry of grease/lubricant. cheers, Tom -- Nothing is safe from me. I'm really at: tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca |
Bearing damage?
Tom Keats wrote:
smack. Brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage anything. How come bottom bracket bearing do NOT have this problem when a hammer is used to drive cotter pins in [1] and out on cranks? [1] No, tightening is NOT done with the nut with attaching a cottered crank. When cotter pins have to be pounded in, there's something horribly wrong. It usually happens from the bike shop who doesn't quite have the exact match of what you require, and gives you what they consider the next closest thing. It's an all too common occurrence. Anyway, bearings get ruined by being used dry of grease/lubricant. I'd like to hear more about that. Who rides with lubricant free BB bearings? Besides, no matter how you brace the spindle when pounding in cotters, the shock reaches the ball or two under the spindle. In addition, I saw many cranks secured without more than a 1/2 lb hammer held under the crank, yet no dents in the spindle resulted. I still have cottered crank spindles lying around that have no sign of Brinelling although I have a few head sets where both top and bottom ball bearings as well a roller bearing ones have fretting dimples. Jobst Brandt |
Bearing damage?
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Bearing damage?
Tom Keats wrote:
smack. Brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage anything. How come bottom bracket bearing do NOT have this problem when a hammer is used to drive cotter pins in [1] and out on cranks? [1] No, tightening is NOT done with the nut with attaching a cottered crank. When cotter pins have to be pounded in, there's something horribly wrong. It usually happens from the bike shop who doesn't quite have the exact match of what you require, and gives you what they consider the next closest thing. It's an all too common occurrence. Anyway, bearings get ruined by being used dry of grease/lubricant. I'd like to hear more about that. Who rides with lubricant free BB bearings? A number of Pacific Northwesters who frequently ride through deep puddles and torrential rainfalls, and don't maintain their bikes as well as they should for the prevailing conditions. Besides, no matter how you brace the spindle when pounding in cotters, the shock reaches the ball or two under the spindle. In You shouldn't have to pound them in. If you have to pound them in, they don't fit. Maybe tap them in a little, sure -- but to ~pound~ them in?! Nay. I see you don't work with these. They must be pressed in with enormous force to give enough preload and insure no "lift-off" from the small cotter face under hard torque. Those of us who lived through the steel crank + cotters can recall how they failed with excess torque if not installed forcefully enough. They must be driven in with a hammer or a special press. Not only that, the also needed to be filed to the right wedge angle to match the other crank in a one side replacement. The off-the-shelf cotter not being ready to install. The flat taper was only an indication of where the flat belonged because the threaded end was offset to pass under the spindle flat. Again, it is a retention nut, not one that can be used to install the cotter, it having insufficient strength for that task. addition, I saw many cranks secured without more than a 1/2 lb hammer held under the crank, yet no dents in the spindle resulted. Of course. The cotters were being smote with a hammer, not the spindles. I don't think I've ever seen a dented spindle. I've seen spindles with badly scoured cones, though. Because the bearings were run dry of lube. Where do you suppose the reaction force went if not through the spindle to the bearing cups? I still have cottered crank spindles lying around that have no sign of Brinelling although I have a few head sets where both top and bottom ball bearings as well a roller bearing ones have fretting dimples. In these rainy Pacific Northwest climes, the lower headset bearing gets the brunt of the weather, especially when unprotected by a front fender. The cup serves to guide splashed-up water into the bearing, washing the lube out. And it's a sneaky effect, because as long as the upper headset bearing is fine, everything can appear to be good. I don't think you analyzed the head bearings correctly. If they were being bathed in water, they would rust solid when parked. On inspection, they are not full of water and did not rust. As I explained, this is a fretting b=problem and that is why the upper head bearing also shows home position dimples. Fortunately this problem has been solved with current bearings. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/i...-steering.html Jobst Brandt |
Minnesota Winters
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:21:17 +0000, Clive George wrote:
"jim beam" wrote in message ... actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. My 4lb club hammer was bought specifically to remove a wheel from my car. I'd tried the 1lb one, no joy, no matter how hard I went at it. 4lb one, smack, wheel off. smack. brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage anything. And what sort of loads + impacts do the bearings get in normal use? why don't you work it out? mass. acceleration. point contact area. What impacts do they get when you're driving around with loose nuts? You're raising bogus worries. no, i'm speaking from experience of failure analysis. bearings that get hammered get brinelled and subsequently fail. this is not knowledge exclusive to scientists - technicians with shop experience long enough to see the consequences will tell you that. |
Minnesota Winters
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 10:10:48 -0600, Tim McNamara wrote:
In article , "Clive George" wrote: "jim beam" wrote in message ... actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels. God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on this forum. I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel. I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it. My 4lb club hammer was bought specifically to remove a wheel from my car. I'd tried the 1lb one, no joy, no matter how hard I went at it. 4lb one, smack, wheel off. smack. brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage anything. And what sort of loads + impacts do the bearings get in normal use? What impacts do they get when you're driving around with loose nuts? You're raising bogus worries. Not our jim! timmy, why don't you tell us how you managed to calculate how 1800 5000? the mathematical world is on the edge of its seat. or not. because you're a retard. |
Bearing damage?
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Bearing damage?
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 07:01:09 +0000, jobst.brandt wrote:
Tom Keats wrote: smack. Brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage anything. How come bottom bracket bearing do NOT have this problem when a hammer is used to drive cotter pins in [1] and out on cranks? [1] No, tightening is NOT done with the nut with attaching a cottered crank. When cotter pins have to be pounded in, there's something horribly wrong. It usually happens from the bike shop who doesn't quite have the exact match of what you require, and gives you what they consider the next closest thing. It's an all too common occurrence. Anyway, bearings get ruined by being used dry of grease/lubricant. I'd like to hear more about that. Who rides with lubricant free BB bearings? Besides, no matter how you brace the spindle when pounding in cotters, the shock reaches the ball or two under the spindle. In addition, I saw many cranks secured without more than a 1/2 lb hammer held under the crank, yet no dents in the spindle resulted. says the great and mighty jobst brandt. not because it doesn't happen, but because his ego doesn't allow mistake admission and his lack of learning doesn't allow correction. I still have cottered crank spindles lying around that have no sign of Brinelling of course! jobst brandt looking for evidence of something that would evidence his gross ignorance is like the fda looking for evidence of mad cow disease after they've fired all their inspectors! although I have a few head sets where both top and bottom ball bearings as well a roller bearing ones have fretting dimples. no jobst, you have brinelling dimples. don't protect your ignorance like it's a virtue. |
Bearing damage?
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 15:14:30 +0000, jobst.brandt wrote:
snip usual presumptive, mistaken and underinformed crap jobst, i know it's late in the day for you, but is there /any/ chance you'll open a book on materials and deformation before you die? it might stop you looking like a complete ass. |
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