wrote in message
oups.com...
Mark, Ya Know, that's interesting.
I get a little nib about 1/2 the time. I've always thought it was
something I was doing wrong, but I'm not sure what. I try to leave the
clear plastic on even after mounting the tube, but it usually falls
off
before. The hardest part for me is getting the patch centered. I've
developed a method to do that, but it takes too long. And yes I use
talcum powder, despite highly regarded advice to the contrary.
John

To center the patch - put a small dab of glue on the hole, using the
dab as center, draw a glue circle slightly larger than the patch. Fill
it in and when ready, center the patch in the glue and the hole will be
centered under the patch.

Phil H

Matt O. wrote in part:

I do let my patches cure
overnight whenever possible.

Agree with the necessity for patches
in bulk but please do not perpetuate
this patch curing nonsense.
No more talk of patch curing
in 2005!

A. Muzi wrote in part:

Spread cement in an area slightly larger than your patch as
thinly and evenly as possible while remaining wet. Allow an
angel to pass. That in this case is ten to thirty seconds
until the glue looks dry.

You can't patch a tube on the road that way.
It is absolutely necessary to let the glue dry
completely, which means a whole gang of angels
must pass before applying the patch, say three
minutes or so.

Robert

: You can't patch a tube on the road that way.
: It is absolutely necessary to let the glue dry
: completely, which means a whole gang of angels
: must pass before applying the patch, say three
: minutes or so.
:
: Robert

they travel in gangs now? that's depressing.

Pat

"Pat" wrote in message
...

: You can't patch a tube on the road that way.
: It is absolutely necessary to let the glue dry
: completely, which means a whole gang of angels
: must pass before applying the patch, say three
: minutes or so.
:
: Robert

they travel in gangs now? that's depressing.

Pat

I used to live near Altimont and it often seemed to take much longer for the
gang of Angels to pass there.

Dave

You can't patch a tube on the road that way.
It is absolutely necessary to let the glue dry
completely, which means a whole gang of angels
must pass before applying the patch, say three
minutes or so.

But the area under the patch is going to expand when inflated.
So would it not be better for the glue to still be wet when the
expansion occurrs?

dkl

dkl wrote:

But the area under the patch is going to expand when inflated.
So would it not be better for the glue to still be wet when the
expansion occurrs?

No.

Robert

Jevertt- I prefer Rema's F0-P, which is a box of 100, 16mm patches; but
these are generally hard to find. BRBR


Anybody that deals with QBP, PK-2001 is the part number-

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

jeff- At $0.50 a patch they still are not the cheapest, but rivendell sells a
kit with 10 "dime sized" patches for $5. Maybe some LBSs have the
Velox patches they put in there. They are definitely smaller than the
smallest Rema ones. BRBR

Ahh, Rivendell trying to stay in biz I guess. 16mm Remas work for any tire I
have seen, even 18mm ones. QBP-PK-2001, about $.15 per.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Matt O'Toole wrote in part:

OTOH, I
wonder if peeling it off helps the patch cure faster.

What disease does the poor patch have?
Anyway, my sympathies and I hope the
little fellar gets well soon.

Robert