Wheel/Spoke Magnets
On Monday, May 13, 2019 at 6:47:07 AM UTC-4, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 07:06:48 +0200, Tosspot wrote: On 13/05/2019 01:45, John B. Slocomb wrote: On Sun, 12 May 2019 16:26:11 -0700, "Mark J." wrote: On 5/12/2019 6:27 AM, sms wrote: On 5/12/2019 1:29 AM, Tosspot wrote: Anyone know of some 'decent' ones.Â* The Sigma supplied ones won't attract a whore in a crack house.Â* The Bosch type ones always seem to corrode and fall off, and on top of that are easy to X-Thread.Â* The Cat-Eye ones don't seem to stay put[1].Â* The Echowell/Yamaha ones seem pretty decent but are like rocking horse **** this side of the pond.. Any other ideas? [1] Yes, it is getting OCD! When I lost the cadence magnet on my crank I used a hard-drive magnet, i.e. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173209158372 but I got some used ones from someone I knew at a disk drive company. I heat shrinked it over the crank. I guess for a wheel magnet you could use some cable ties or some baling wire and attach one of these to the spokes. The pick-up doesn't have to be so close to the magnet when you use a disk drive magnet. If heat shrink is too much trouble, the ?vinyl? stretchy plastic electrical tape works pretty well also, I've done this for cadence magnets. The tape may start to peel and degenerate into a sticky mess, but if caught/redone in time, the mess is quite containable. Mark J. I bonded used Hard disk magnets onto the aluminum crank arms of all of my (4) bicycles as much as 10 years ago using epoxy glue. To date the magnets are all still attached :-) As to the original post, I have spoke magnets that I attached to front wheels both with radial spokes and with crossed spokes that have been in place for 4 - 5 years. What is the big problems with attaching magnets to bicycles? It isn't a problem per se. For some reason there is a *big* gap between the spokes and the Surly LHT frame, which means at best, standard magnets are intermittent. The fix is obvious, a small neodymium disc magnet, but this tends to cause enough of some adverse force to cause the above problems. In short, the Sigma ones don't cut the mustard, different ones work ok for a year or two. I want a good magnet, that stays put, doesn't corrode and I can't fyckup fitting. I think that you are referring to a cycle meter pickup - spoke magnet and sensor mounted on the front fork? What I do is mount the magnet and than mount the sensor with a bit of offset - bent in, one might say. Works for me :-) The indomitable Sheldon recommends installing the magnet as near the hub as possible as it means that the magnet passes the sensor (transmitter) slower which he feels might make things more accurate. As an aside, it also means that the magnet is closer to the fork tube and therefore the sensor is closer to the magnet and requires less offset. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-eGGDFeaUM for an example (I know it is a cabled meter but the position of the sender is the same as a wireless sensor). -- Cheers, John B. Some wireless magnets NEED to be mounted close to the rim in order to be picked up by the sensor which also needs to be as close to the actual computer unit as possible. I had a wireless computer that had intermittent readings and readings far in excess of my actual speed. Those problems were corrected when the magnet and sensor were moved as far up the wheels and fork as possible. It seems that the distance that the sensor was from the computer was a critical factor with that computer as it was a very short range from the sensor to the unit that worked. Cheers |
Wheel/Spoke Magnets
On Sun, 12 May 2019 17:37:12 -0700, sms
wrote: On 5/12/2019 4:26 PM, Mark J. wrote: On 5/12/2019 6:27 AM, sms wrote: On 5/12/2019 1:29 AM, Tosspot wrote: Anyone know of some 'decent' ones.* The Sigma supplied ones won't attract a whore in a crack house.* The Bosch type ones always seem to corrode and fall off, and on top of that are easy to X-Thread.* The Cat-Eye ones don't seem to stay put[1].* The Echowell/Yamaha ones seem pretty decent but are like rocking horse **** this side of the pond. Any other ideas? [1] Yes, it is getting OCD! When I lost the cadence magnet on my crank I used a hard-drive magnet, i.e. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173209158372 but I got some used ones from someone I knew at a disk drive company. I heat shrinked it over the crank. I guess for a wheel magnet you could use some cable ties or some baling wire and attach one of these to the spokes. The pick-up doesn't have to be so close to the magnet when you use a disk drive magnet. If heat shrink is too much trouble, the ?vinyl? stretchy plastic electrical tape works pretty well also, I've done this for cadence magnets.* The tape may start to peel and degenerate into a sticky mess, but if caught/redone in time, the mess is quite containable. I SPIT on electrical tape. But it works so well for taping electrical splices :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
Wheel/Spoke Magnets
On Monday, May 13, 2019 at 6:57:02 AM UTC-4, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Some wireless magnets NEED to be mounted close to the rim in order to be picked up by the sensor which also needs to be as close to the actual computer unit as possible. I had a wireless computer that had intermittent readings and readings far in excess of my actual speed. Those problems were corrected when the magnet and sensor were moved as far up the wheels and fork as possible. It seems that the distance that the sensor was from the computer was a critical factor with that computer as it was a very short range from the sensor to the unit that worked. As I think I mentioned, my folding bike's wireless cyclometer lost the signal from it's magnet and sender when the weather was cold. The small wheel diameter meant the sender to cyclometer distance was within the unit's maximum separation according to the manual, but just barely. I finally solved the problem by mounting the cyclometer on a plastic stub in front of the handlebar. It seems the handlebar itself was partially blocking the radio signal. - Frank Krygowski |
Wheel/Spoke Magnets
On Sun, 12 May 2019 06:27:51 -0700, sms
wrote: On 5/12/2019 1:29 AM, Tosspot wrote: Anyone know of some 'decent' ones.* The Sigma supplied ones won't attract a whore in a crack house.* The Bosch type ones always seem to corrode and fall off, and on top of that are easy to X-Thread.* The Cat-Eye ones don't seem to stay put[1].* The Echowell/Yamaha ones seem pretty decent but are like rocking horse **** this side of the pond. Any other ideas? [1] Yes, it is getting OCD! When I lost the cadence magnet on my crank I used a hard-drive magnet, i.e. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173209158372 but I got some used ones from someone I knew at a disk drive company. I heat shrinked it over the crank. I guess for a wheel magnet you could use some cable ties or some baling wire and attach one of these to the spokes. The pick-up doesn't have to be so close to the magnet when you use a disk drive magnet. I tried a disk drive magnet and had problems. The typical magnet is not a single piece of iron with a single pair of poles, but rather two magnets with two pairs of poles: https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/12283/if-you-place-a-spring-on-a-neodymium-hard-drive-magnet-it-appears-to-vibrate-in By adjusting the position and orientation, it worked quite well. However, if the magnet moved, I would get erratic operation. I got my best resuls by breaking a magnet in half, resulting in (mostly) one pair of poles. I don't recall which brand of bicycle computah I used, but I think it may have been a Sigma. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
Wheel/Spoke Magnets
On 5/12/2019 10:06 PM, Tosspot wrote:
snip It isn't a problem per se.Â* For some reason there is a *big* gap between the spokes and the Surly LHT frame, which means at best, standard magnets are intermittent.Â* The fix is obvious, a small neodymium disc magnet, but this tends to cause enough of some adverse force to cause the above problems.Â* In short, the Sigma ones don't cut the mustard, different ones work ok for a year or two.Â* I want a good magnet, that stays put, doesn't corrode and I can't fyckup fitting. I think that a disk drive magnet, covered with heat-shrink tubing to prevent corrosion, and attacked to the spokes through the holes on the mount, would work. A bit heavy though. |
Wheel/Spoke Magnets
On 5/12/2019 5:37 PM, sms wrote:
On 5/12/2019 4:26 PM, Mark J. wrote: On 5/12/2019 6:27 AM, sms wrote: On 5/12/2019 1:29 AM, Tosspot wrote: Anyone know of some 'decent' ones.Â* The Sigma supplied ones won't attract a whore in a crack house.Â* The Bosch type ones always seem to corrode and fall off, and on top of that are easy to X-Thread. The Cat-Eye ones don't seem to stay put[1].Â* The Echowell/Yamaha ones seem pretty decent but are like rocking horse **** this side of the pond. Any other ideas? [1] Yes, it is getting OCD! When I lost the cadence magnet on my crank I used a hard-drive magnet, i.e. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173209158372 but I got some used ones from someone I knew at a disk drive company. I heat shrinked it over the crank. I guess for a wheel magnet you could use some cable ties or some baling wire and attach one of these to the spokes. The pick-up doesn't have to be so close to the magnet when you use a disk drive magnet. If heat shrink is too much trouble, the ?vinyl? stretchy plastic electrical tape works pretty well also, I've done this for cadence magnets.Â* The tape may start to peel and degenerate into a sticky mess, but if caught/redone in time, the mess is quite containable. I SPIT on electrical tape. The gummy adhesive is a pain, yes, but saliva is not a suitable solvent for cleaning it. Mark J. |
Wheel/Spoke Magnets
On 13/05/2019 02:37, sms wrote:
On 5/12/2019 4:26 PM, Mark J. wrote: On 5/12/2019 6:27 AM, sms wrote: On 5/12/2019 1:29 AM, Tosspot wrote: Anyone know of some 'decent' ones. The Sigma supplied ones won't attract a whore in a crack house. The Bosch type ones always seem to corrode and fall off, and on top of that are easy to X-Thread. The Cat-Eye ones don't seem to stay put[1]. The Echowell/Yamaha ones seem pretty decent but are like rocking horse **** this side of the pond. Any other ideas? [1] Yes, it is getting OCD! When I lost the cadence magnet on my crank I used a hard-drive magnet, i.e. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173209158372 but I got some used ones from someone I knew at a disk drive company. I heat shrinked it over the crank. I guess for a wheel magnet you could use some cable ties or some baling wire and attach one of these to the spokes. The pick-up doesn't have to be so close to the magnet when you use a disk drive magnet. If heat shrink is too much trouble, the ?vinyl? stretchy plastic electrical tape works pretty well also, I've done this for cadence magnets. The tape may start to peel and degenerate into a sticky mess, but if caught/redone in time, the mess is quite containable. I SPIT on electrical tape. This is the stuff you want if you desire it stays put. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self-amalgamating_tape |
Wheel/Spoke Magnets
On 13/05/2019 12:46, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 07:06:48 +0200, Tosspot wrote: On 13/05/2019 01:45, John B. Slocomb wrote: On Sun, 12 May 2019 16:26:11 -0700, "Mark J." wrote: On 5/12/2019 6:27 AM, sms wrote: On 5/12/2019 1:29 AM, Tosspot wrote: Anyone know of some 'decent' ones. The Sigma supplied ones won't attract a whore in a crack house. The Bosch type ones always seem to corrode and fall off, and on top of that are easy to X-Thread. The Cat-Eye ones don't seem to stay put[1]. The Echowell/Yamaha ones seem pretty decent but are like rocking horse **** this side of the pond. Any other ideas? [1] Yes, it is getting OCD! When I lost the cadence magnet on my crank I used a hard-drive magnet, i.e. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173209158372 but I got some used ones from someone I knew at a disk drive company. I heat shrinked it over the crank. I guess for a wheel magnet you could use some cable ties or some baling wire and attach one of these to the spokes. The pick-up doesn't have to be so close to the magnet when you use a disk drive magnet. If heat shrink is too much trouble, the ?vinyl? stretchy plastic electrical tape works pretty well also, I've done this for cadence magnets. The tape may start to peel and degenerate into a sticky mess, but if caught/redone in time, the mess is quite containable. Mark J. I bonded used Hard disk magnets onto the aluminum crank arms of all of my (4) bicycles as much as 10 years ago using epoxy glue. To date the magnets are all still attached :-) As to the original post, I have spoke magnets that I attached to front wheels both with radial spokes and with crossed spokes that have been in place for 4 - 5 years. What is the big problems with attaching magnets to bicycles? It isn't a problem per se. For some reason there is a *big* gap between the spokes and the Surly LHT frame, which means at best, standard magnets are intermittent. The fix is obvious, a small neodymium disc magnet, but this tends to cause enough of some adverse force to cause the above problems. In short, the Sigma ones don't cut the mustard, different ones work ok for a year or two. I want a good magnet, that stays put, doesn't corrode and I can't fyckup fitting. I think that you are referring to a cycle meter pickup - spoke magnet and sensor mounted on the front fork? Errmmm...yes...that probably be one of them. What I do is mount the magnet and than mount the sensor with a bit of offset - bent in, one might say. Works for me :-) The indomitable Sheldon recommends installing the magnet as near the hub as possible as it means that the magnet passes the sensor (transmitter) slower which he feels might make things more accurate. He isn't wrong, but the trigonometry for my setup doesn't agree. As an aside, it also means that the magnet is closer to the fork tube and therefore the sensor is closer to the magnet and requires less offset. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-eGGDFeaUM for an example (I know it is a cabled meter but the position of the sender is the same as a wireless sensor). Now you come to mention it, I might try mounting it the other side of the disc... |
Wheel/Spoke Magnets
On Mon, 13 May 2019 03:56:59 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote: On Monday, May 13, 2019 at 6:47:07 AM UTC-4, John B. Slocomb wrote: On Mon, 13 May 2019 07:06:48 +0200, Tosspot wrote: On 13/05/2019 01:45, John B. Slocomb wrote: On Sun, 12 May 2019 16:26:11 -0700, "Mark J." wrote: On 5/12/2019 6:27 AM, sms wrote: On 5/12/2019 1:29 AM, Tosspot wrote: Anyone know of some 'decent' ones.* The Sigma supplied ones won't attract a whore in a crack house.* The Bosch type ones always seem to corrode and fall off, and on top of that are easy to X-Thread.* The Cat-Eye ones don't seem to stay put[1].* The Echowell/Yamaha ones seem pretty decent but are like rocking horse **** this side of the pond. Any other ideas? [1] Yes, it is getting OCD! When I lost the cadence magnet on my crank I used a hard-drive magnet, i.e. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173209158372 but I got some used ones from someone I knew at a disk drive company. I heat shrinked it over the crank. I guess for a wheel magnet you could use some cable ties or some baling wire and attach one of these to the spokes. The pick-up doesn't have to be so close to the magnet when you use a disk drive magnet. If heat shrink is too much trouble, the ?vinyl? stretchy plastic electrical tape works pretty well also, I've done this for cadence magnets. The tape may start to peel and degenerate into a sticky mess, but if caught/redone in time, the mess is quite containable. Mark J. I bonded used Hard disk magnets onto the aluminum crank arms of all of my (4) bicycles as much as 10 years ago using epoxy glue. To date the magnets are all still attached :-) As to the original post, I have spoke magnets that I attached to front wheels both with radial spokes and with crossed spokes that have been in place for 4 - 5 years. What is the big problems with attaching magnets to bicycles? It isn't a problem per se. For some reason there is a *big* gap between the spokes and the Surly LHT frame, which means at best, standard magnets are intermittent. The fix is obvious, a small neodymium disc magnet, but this tends to cause enough of some adverse force to cause the above problems. In short, the Sigma ones don't cut the mustard, different ones work ok for a year or two. I want a good magnet, that stays put, doesn't corrode and I can't fyckup fitting. I think that you are referring to a cycle meter pickup - spoke magnet and sensor mounted on the front fork? What I do is mount the magnet and than mount the sensor with a bit of offset - bent in, one might say. Works for me :-) The indomitable Sheldon recommends installing the magnet as near the hub as possible as it means that the magnet passes the sensor (transmitter) slower which he feels might make things more accurate. As an aside, it also means that the magnet is closer to the fork tube and therefore the sensor is closer to the magnet and requires less offset. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-eGGDFeaUM for an example (I know it is a cabled meter but the position of the sender is the same as a wireless sensor). -- Cheers, John B. Some wireless magnets NEED to be mounted close to the rim in order to be picked up by the sensor which also needs to be as close to the actual computer unit as possible. I had a wireless computer that had intermittent readings and readings far in excess of my actual speed. Those problems were corrected when the magnet and sensor were moved as far up the wheels and fork as possible. It seems that the distance that the sensor was from the computer was a critical factor with that computer as it was a very short range from the sensor to the unit that worked. Cheers Yes, I have had meters that required the sensor to be mounted as close to the instrument as possible. Notably the cheap in price meters. I have not found this to be true in the more "expensive" brands, such as CatEye for example. Although I've not found CatEye to be really "expensive" in the real sense. I recently gave away a bike with a CatEye "cable" meter that had been installed for 10 or more years and was still going strong. In fact I can't remember even having changed the battery in that thing :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
Wheel/Spoke Magnets
On Mon, 13 May 2019 07:01:02 -0700 (PDT), Frank Krygowski
wrote: On Monday, May 13, 2019 at 6:57:02 AM UTC-4, Sir Ridesalot wrote: Some wireless magnets NEED to be mounted close to the rim in order to be picked up by the sensor which also needs to be as close to the actual computer unit as possible. I had a wireless computer that had intermittent readings and readings far in excess of my actual speed. Those problems were corrected when the magnet and sensor were moved as far up the wheels and fork as possible. It seems that the distance that the sensor was from the computer was a critical factor with that computer as it was a very short range from the sensor to the unit that worked. As I think I mentioned, my folding bike's wireless cyclometer lost the signal from it's magnet and sender when the weather was cold. The small wheel diameter meant the sender to cyclometer distance was within the unit's maximum separation according to the manual, but just barely. I finally solved the problem by mounting the cyclometer on a plastic stub in front of the handlebar. It seems the handlebar itself was partially blocking the radio signal. - Frank Krygowski Yes, I've seen this "phenomena" with meters I have used for "cadence meters". Mount them on top of the top tube and they don't work. But again, it seems to be more common with the cheaper (in price) meters, which is again a problem as I prefer CatEye meters (cost versus service) and would usually mount one as the handle bar meter and than trying to use another CatEye for a cadence meter I find that the signals from the two CatEye senders interfere with each other :-( Probably they transmit on the same frequency) so I end up with a cheaper meter for the cadence meter and have to mount the instrument almost under the saddle to get it to work :-( -- Cheers, John B. |
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