QD wheel spindles.
 

Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels, the frame
and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles over from a
pair of old damaged wheels?

Thanks.

QD wheel spindles.
 

On 20/11/2014 20:05, Ian Field wrote:
Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels, the
frame and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles over from
a pair of old damaged wheels?

I'd normally call them axles.

For a traditional wheel, provided they're long enough, the threads match
the cones, and the axle isn't knackered, it'll work.

QD wheel spindles.
 

"Clive George" wrote in message
...
On 20/11/2014 20:05, Ian Field wrote:
Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels, the
frame and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles over from
a pair of old damaged wheels?

I'd normally call them axles.

For a traditional wheel, provided they're long enough, the threads match
the cones, and the axle isn't knackered, it'll work.

If its a traditional this and provided that, doesn't really answer the
question.

The spindles I'm hoping to salvage from scrap wheels, have cones on them -
I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that those cones on them have
matching threads.

QD wheel spindles.
 

On Thursday, November 20, 2014 4:09:44 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Clive George" wrote in message
...
On 20/11/2014 20:05, Ian Field wrote:
Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels, the
frame and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles over from
a pair of old damaged wheels?

I'd normally call them axles.

For a traditional wheel, provided they're long enough, the threads match
the cones, and the axle isn't knackered, it'll work.

If its a traditional this and provided that, doesn't really answer the
question.

The spindles I'm hoping to salvage from scrap wheels, have cones on them -
I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that those cones on them have
matching threads.

Without knowing tte maker of the parts it's nearly impossible to tell if theaxle/parts swap will work.

Is QD short for quick release? I've swapped QR axles for nutted ones and vice versa by taking a threaded part from one (the lock nut is good) and trying to thread it onto the axle I want to use. If it goes on then the swap is straightforward transnfer of parts. If the locknut doesn't thread on then the axles are not compatible. You might get lucky and have cones with the same bearing taper. If the thread from the axles doesn't match and you have a decent bike shop or bicycle co-op in your area you can usually get an axle there that'll match tthe threads on the one you have.

Cheers

QD wheel spindles.
 

"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, November 20, 2014 4:09:44 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Clive George" wrote in message
...
On 20/11/2014 20:05, Ian Field wrote:
Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels, the
frame and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles over
from
a pair of old damaged wheels?

I'd normally call them axles.

For a traditional wheel, provided they're long enough, the threads
match
the cones, and the axle isn't knackered, it'll work.

If its a traditional this and provided that, doesn't really answer the
question.

The spindles I'm hoping to salvage from scrap wheels, have cones on
them -
I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that those cones on them
have
matching threads.

Without knowing tte maker of the parts it's nearly impossible to tell if
theaxle/parts swap will work.

Is QD short for quick release? I've swapped QR axles for nutted ones and
vice versa by taking a threaded part from one (the lock nut is good) and
trying to thread it onto the axle I want to use. If it goes on then the
swap is straightforward transnfer of parts. If the locknut doesn't thread
on then the axles are not compatible.

Why do the axles need to be compatible?

All the axle, cones and wheel nuts come from the scrap wheel as one unit -
the critical parameter would be the bearing race diameter, the distance
apart, less so. If the hub is narrower, I just screw the cones in a few more
turns and pack it out to the forks with extra locknuts.

QD wheel spindles.
 

On Thursday, November 20, 2014 4:32:19 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, November 20, 2014 4:09:44 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Clive George" wrote in message
...
On 20/11/2014 20:05, Ian Field wrote:
Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels, the
frame and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles over
from
a pair of old damaged wheels?

I'd normally call them axles.

For a traditional wheel, provided they're long enough, the threads
match
the cones, and the axle isn't knackered, it'll work.

If its a traditional this and provided that, doesn't really answer the
question.

The spindles I'm hoping to salvage from scrap wheels, have cones on
them -
I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that those cones on them
have
matching threads.

Without knowing tte maker of the parts it's nearly impossible to tell if
theaxle/parts swap will work.

Is QD short for quick release? I've swapped QR axles for nutted ones and
vice versa by taking a threaded part from one (the lock nut is good) and
trying to thread it onto the axle I want to use. If it goes on then the
swap is straightforward transnfer of parts. If the locknut doesn't thread
on then the axles are not compatible.

Why do the axles need to be compatible?

All the axle, cones and wheel nuts come from the scrap wheel as one unit -
the critical parameter would be the bearing race diameter, the distance
apart, less so. If the hub is narrower, I just screw the cones in a few more
turns and pack it out to the forks with extra locknuts.

Compatibility matters because often times the angles on the cones will be different which leads to much faster wear on the bearings especially if used bearings are put in that have already worn to a certasin degree or shape. That can lead to great difficulty keeping the bearings adjusted. It's often just not possible to switch the guts from one hub and put them into a different manufacturers hub. That's why I get a replacement axle whether QR or nutted with the same threads as the one i want to replace.

Cheers

QD wheel spindles.
 

"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, November 20, 2014 4:32:19 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, November 20, 2014 4:09:44 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Clive George" wrote in message
...
On 20/11/2014 20:05, Ian Field wrote:
Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels,
the
frame and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles over
from
a pair of old damaged wheels?

I'd normally call them axles.

For a traditional wheel, provided they're long enough, the threads
match
the cones, and the axle isn't knackered, it'll work.

If its a traditional this and provided that, doesn't really answer the
question.

The spindles I'm hoping to salvage from scrap wheels, have cones on
them -
I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that those cones on them
have
matching threads.

Without knowing tte maker of the parts it's nearly impossible to tell
if
theaxle/parts swap will work.

Is QD short for quick release? I've swapped QR axles for nutted ones
and
vice versa by taking a threaded part from one (the lock nut is good)
and
trying to thread it onto the axle I want to use. If it goes on then the
swap is straightforward transnfer of parts. If the locknut doesn't
thread
on then the axles are not compatible.

Why do the axles need to be compatible?

All the axle, cones and wheel nuts come from the scrap wheel as one
unit -
the critical parameter would be the bearing race diameter, the distance
apart, less so. If the hub is narrower, I just screw the cones in a few
more
turns and pack it out to the forks with extra locknuts.

Compatibility matters because often times the angles on the cones will be
different which leads to much faster wear on the bearings especially if
used bearings are put in that have already worn to a certasin degree or
shape. That can lead to great difficulty keeping the bearings adjusted.

As I seem to get through a lot of rims, fast wearing hubs may not be such an
issue.

But I did buy a couple of bags of each size ball bearings just in case.

QD wheel spindles.
 

for example

https://www.google.com/#q=wheels+man...cones&tbm=shop

are QR and solid axle threads regulated as standards ?

QD wheel spindles.
 

On Thursday, November 20, 2014 6:40:02 PM UTC-5, wrote:
for example

https://www.google.com/#q=wheels+man...cones&tbm=shop

are QR and solid axle threads regulated as standards ?

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...hread-concepts
Wikipedia bicycle wheel -
* Thru axle - a removable axle with a threaded end that is inserted through a hole in one fork leg, through the hub, and then screwed into the other fork leg. Some axles have integrated cam levers that compress axle elements against the fork leg to lock it in place, while others rely on pinch bolts on the fork leg to secure it. Diameters for front thru axles include 20 mm, 15 mm (most common), and 9 mm. Rear axles typically have diameters of 10 or 12 mm. Most thru axles are found on mountain bikes, although some cyclocross and road bikes are using them. Thru axles repeatable locate the wheel in the fork or frame, which is important to prevent misalignment of brake rotors when using disc brakes. Unlike other axle systems (except Lefty), the thru axle is specific to the fork or frame, not the hub. Hubs/wheels do not include axles, and the axle is generally supplied with the fork or frame.
* Female axle - hollow center axle, typically 14, 15, 17, or 20 mm in diameter made of chromoly and aluminum, with two bolts thread into on either side.[1] This design can be much stronger than traditional axles, which are commonly only 8 mm, 9 mm, 9.5 mm, or 10 mm in diameter.[2] (found on higher end BMX hubs and some mountain bike hubs)
Modern[when?] bicycles have adopted standard axle spacing: the hubs of front wheels are generally 100 mm wide fork spacing, road wheels with freehubs generally have a 130 mm wide rear wheel hub. Mountain bikes have adopted a 135 mm rear hub width,[3] which allows clearance to mount a brake disc on the hub or to decrease the wheel dish for a more durable wheel.[3] Freeride and downhill are available with 150 mm spacing.[4]
You needa thread gauge and bolt diameter plastic form from Home Depot..and a vernier maybe at the end of HD's tool rack.

QD wheel spindles.
 

On 20/11/2014 21:09, Ian Field wrote:


"Clive George" wrote in message
...
On 20/11/2014 20:05, Ian Field wrote:
Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels, the
frame and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles over from
a pair of old damaged wheels?

I'd normally call them axles.

For a traditional wheel, provided they're long enough, the threads
match the cones, and the axle isn't knackered, it'll work.

If its a traditional this and provided that, doesn't really answer the
question.

My campag QR axles won't work in your hub. Neither will any of the
tandem ones.

I've answered the question as well I can with the information you've
provided.

The spindles I'm hoping to salvage from scrap wheels, have cones on them
- I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that those cones on them
have matching threads.

Easy enough to find out. But I'd check the size and state compared to
your other ones.