On 3/27/2017 3:58 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-03-26 10:29, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, March 26, 2017 at 8:02:54 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-03-25 14:47, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:25:56 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot
wrote:
On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:30:36 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-03-22 19:50, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:20:34 PM UTC-7,
wrote:
Did you try all the usual tricks for getting the bead
over the rim, counsel? Did you push the valve stem up
into the tire? Did you try pushing the bead on the
opposite side over as far as possible toward the side you
were trying to mount, in order to create more clearance
to get the bead over the rim? Did you look all around
the perimeter of the tire, trying to find places where
the tube was caught under the bead? A little silicone
spray on the bead, maybe?

Occasionally I've bought tires that were extremely tight,
but I've always been able to mount them by using these
techniques. I'd much rather have a tight tire than one
that is too loose.

Good luck from your fellow pettifogger.

I did the basics and didn't spend much time trying. It was
so far off that I just grabbed another tire and got going.
I'll try again later.


Eventually you'll get it on. Push the 2nd bead as far you
can, secure it in that "95% position" with two tire levers,
then leave overnight. The stress seems to stretch it a wee
bit. In the morning it'll "only" be 15-20 minutes more. What
also helps if you must get it on same day is to squeeze
high-quality tire levers between bead and rim wall right up
to where it crosses over. Then rotate these levers back and
forth 10-20 degrees while pushing. Dunk the lever tips in
soap before. The levers will suffer a lot and I broke one
from an expensive set.

The feeling in my right thumb and middle finger tips still
hasn't come back after the last one a couple months ago but
who knows, those could also be carpal tunnel symptoms. It
just happened right after mounting my last Gatorksin. And
that will be my last Gatorskin. Sad because they gave me
2500mi per rear tire. Unless the side wall failed
beforehand.

I switched to CST Conquistare. Still under 400mi so I can't
say how many miles they will last. The side walls sure are a
lot better than on the Gatorskin. I have done my usual rides
which include rough gravel and some offroad sections, zero
visible damage. By that time Gatorskins already had li'l
flaps, skin tags, frayed fibers and so on.

If the CST lasts only 1500-2000mi it'll be ok as long as the
price is low enough for such a short life. I got it for $15.
Main thing is, I can get it onto the rim in minutes.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I refuse to use a tire that's that hard to mount. What do you
do if you get a flat out on the road? Do you camp overnight so
that the tire can stretch again after repairing or replacing
the tube?

Cheers

Exactly. I'll just use the tire as a rear, which is built on a
Velocity Touring Disc rim -- a simple, discontinued rim with a
deeper well that works with any and all tires. The CR18 is an
el-cheapo rim I bought as a quick replacement for my front dyno
wheel. It's an '80s design throw-back.


You got a front dyno wheel in the US? Do you have a link? The ones
under $100 I've seen so far had rims that were too wide.

SMS could send you a pile of links. I built mine -- first with an
older beater MA3 which developed some spoke hole cracking not
withstanding my diligent tensioning to 100-110kgf (within factory
spec). I replaced it with a cheap and available CR18 from Universal.
The rim also fit my needs in terms of ERD. I would have purchased a
disc specific rim with a deeper section, but it would have meant
buying new spokes.


When it comes to wheels I am decadent and would like to buy a complete
wheel. I know I will have to increase the spoke tension as usual but
that's just 1/4 to 1/2 turn on each nipple. Spoking up and truing a
whole wheel is just not my thing.


BTW, I was rummaging around in my spoke box and found a bunch of
310mm from a 4X Weinmann Concave wheel I built in the late '70s.
Those are totally useless now. I could use them for shish kebab
skewers. I wish I had a Phil cutting/threading tool, but I could
never recoup the cost.


I wonder how that could work. On my road bike the spokes have 2.0mm
diameter and the threaded ends are thicker at 2.2mm.

On the rear I'd like to have something in the neigborhood of 3mm spoke
diameter. Or more.

I've suggested before that you use motorcycle gauge spokes.

And tires.


--
- Frank Krygowski