Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 9 Aug 2020 04:14:54 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Agree. I sure want to be sure that the bearing is the problem before I
knocked that loctited bearing out.
Lou

Agreed.

"How to Remove Loctite 2620 Red Threadlocker"
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/insights/all-insights/blog/how-to-remove-loctite-2620.html

"How to Remove Red Threadlocker"
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/insights/all-insights/blog/how-to-remove-red-threadlocker.html

I've also used acetone (nail polish remover) to soften Loctite.
However, both heat and acetone might be impractical on a bottom
bracket because of the damage they might do to the frame paint job.

I would try putting the bearing under tension using a bottom bracket
bearing removal tool:
https://www.google.com/search?q=bottom+bracket+bearing+removal+tool&tbm=i sch
and using a syringe to inject a small amount of acetone along the glue
line. Acetone evaporates quickly, so just keep applying small amounts
and increasing tension until the bearing starts to move.

After the bearing is out, clean out any residual Loctite with acetone
from the bottom bracket. Find an inside micrometer to measure the
inside diameter of the bottom bracket. Look for an out of round
bottom bracket. Calculate the required thickness of a brass or steel
shim and use it instead of Loctite.
https://www.amazon.com/Goodson-Shim-Stock-Assortment-Brass-5/dp/B0009RGYZO
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=0.001&rh=n%3A16413291
Aluminum foil might also work, but you'll probably need to polish the
bottom bracket to prevent tearing the foil during insertion.


I think that the issue with shimming is that the required shim thickness
(half the difference in diameters) is likely to be in the “tinfoil or less”
range, which then results in excessive grief trying not to shred it on
insertion. That is where Loctite excels.