On 14/08/2018 12:28 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/14/2018 11:07 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:10:28 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7,
wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote:
On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote:
Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat
repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when
you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you
happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to
soften the tire before it seals again?

1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have
noticedÂ* how manufacturers try to lock customers into their
product by
making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers. Heck,
they even make their new products incompatible with their own
products.

2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when
they relie on results from very narrow test conditions.

3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail
twice to have you walking.

1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their
product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless
compatible?

2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life
than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition.
What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from
tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance
of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the
rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower
pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is
not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling
resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not
meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as
should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the
tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the
relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than
burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long
time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23
mm tires
at 110 psi could and did report this.

3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires
left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give
you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them
BOTH equally.

Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2
cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic
to you.

You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on
every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to
bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate
responses like "lock you in to their products"
Â* or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions."
when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle
tire performance than those of a motorcycles.

What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride?Â* Nothing
is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a
CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless.

-- Jay Beattie.

How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different
conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do
if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really
have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they
are responding with.

I boot casings with a dollar bill or a Cliff bar wrapper, held in
place by an inner tube.Â* What's the fix on a tubeless tire when you
cut a casing or get a hole that won't self-seal?


Simple. Pull out your handy length of steel wire, garrote some passing
cyclist, leave his body for the mountain lions and ride off on his bike.


Coffee through the nose...