On 2019-08-21 19:33, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 21 Aug 2019 16:54:57 -0700, Joerg
wrote:
Is it also better than E6000? I need to buy some more now since the
ortho boot and also my MTB shoes are coming apart and if Gorilla Glue is
better than E6000 I'd buy that instead. In my case it has to work for
very flexible joints (sneakers, sports shoes, not rigid cleats stuff).
I've been using a glue that is no longer easily available called
Awesome Goo. I found this on Amazon, which is probably old stock (at
least 8 years old).
https://www.amazon.com/Awesome-Goo-CECOMINOD023727/dp/B003EB51CY
Notice the photos of the shoe repairs on the left. I've been doing
something similar with good results. Here's my rather sloppy
microphone cable repair:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/awesome-goo/mic-before.jpg
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/awesome-goo/mic-after.jpg
I think it's a urethane based goo, similar to Gorilla Glue.
Let's call that "free-form art" :-)
When I ran out of Awesome Goo, I switched to hot melt glue:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/hot-melt-glue/hot-melt-glue-shoe-01.jpg
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/hot-melt-glue/hot-melt-glue-shoe-02.jpg
It worked tolerably well, but not as well as Awesome Goo. Those are
Wolverine Cirrus 6" aluminum toe work boots, which I wear daily.
My experience with hot-melt glues of various kinds is generally quite bad.
E6000 and Chinese clones are single part epoxy dissolved in some kind
of solvent. It used to be tetrachloroethylene (PERC) and polymerized
styrene butadiene (SBR) rubber. I don't know what's being used in
place of the PERC VoC which is banned in California. The original
E6000 is by Eclectic Products, which makes many formulations and
variation, all with basically the same name for optimum confusion:
http://eclecticproducts.com/products/e6000/
http://eclecticproducts.com/downloads/tds-e6000-craft-english.pdf
Notice the section on solvents that will dissolve E6000, and that it
really does take 24 hrs to cure.
About 6 months ago, I bought an assortment of E6000, B6000, B7000,
F6000, on eBay in small tubes to see how well or badly they worked for
various projects. In general, I verified most of the assertions found
in this article.
https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-difference-between-E6000-F6000-B6000-B7000-and-similar-glues
Except for B7000, they're mostly identical. I ended up stocking up on
the original in small tubes:
http://eclecticproducts.com/products/e6000/e6000-mini-tubes.html
I haven't tried them on shoes or shoe soles.
I read up on it some more and found that E6000 supposedly beats Gorilla
Glue when it comes to remaining very flexible. Most of my shoes break in
the front on on teh sides and they do not have rigid soles like some
cycling shoes do. So the glued joint will flex with every step and I
walk at least 2-3mi per day aside from cycling.
For shoe soles, I've done well with WeldWood Contact Cement.
https://www.dap.com/dap-products-ph/weldwood-contact-cement/
It's fast, fairly easy to apply, and dries almost instantly when the
sole and the shoe come in contact. The catch is you have one shot at
getting it right as it's almost impossible to separate the sole and
shoe if you miss. It also reeks for a few days, but eventually goes
away. Selection of this contact cement was fairly easy for me. I
inherited 2 gallon cans of the stuff from a former customer, so I just
had to try it everything possible.
Impossible to separate sounds good. I'd be ok with having only one
chance at it. Most of the time such shoes have little residual value and
it's just to eke another few hundred miles of walking out of them. Until
they really break down.
--
Regards, Joerg
http://www.analogconsultants.com/