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Old August 8th 17, 12:42 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Default Crank Arm Length

On Monday, August 7, 2017 at 3:29:34 PM UTC-7, JQ wrote:
On 8/7/2017 4:52 PM, wrote:
On Monday, August 7, 2017 at 1:42:28 PM UTC-7, JQ wrote:
On 8/5/2017 2:57 PM,
wrote:
We've probably argued about this before but since I can't remember crap I can get clean opinions.

I presently ride 175 mm length crank arms. I have problems spinning and watching the Tour this year what was clear was that there are no more luggers in the peleton. This suggests that spinning is the way to go.

So: Has anyone experimented with different crank arm lengths and have they been able to tell the difference between one size different in length?
I recently went from a 175 crank arm to 165, I did this because I have
severe degenerative arthritis in both knees. My pedal stroke seems to be
weakest and 3 to 6 but the top of the pedal stroke is the hardest on my
knees. With the shorter crank arm my power out put was a little better
on the power graph, the greatest benefit is to knee comfort especially
at the top of my pedal stroke. I can know actually ride in the drops
comfortably without my knees feeling like they are in my chest and
greater knee pains at the top. It is easier to spin at easier gearing
because the distance of pedal travel is shorter, now for the downside...
pedaling it is much harder takes more effort to turn the pedal using the
same gearing. You also feel like you don't get the same amount of power
and momentum per pedal stroke because of the shorter distance of the
pedal stroke circumference. Gear set up was 53/39 front and 11-23 rear
(my flat land and crit racing set up). What I noticed is to pedal with
similar effort I needed to drop down at least 2 gears (53/15 would need
to be 53/17). This doesn't sound like much of a difference but it is as
far as speed and power is concerned. I just changed my gearing set up on
my bike to 52/38 and 11-28 (to be able to climb hills). I even have a
12-30 for really steep hills. My original reason for changing out the
crank arms was for the arthritis of the knees, but I was hit by a high
speed car from the rear and was jacked up pretty good resulting in over
9 weeks in the hospital, over 22 broken bones through out my body
including neck, back and both legs, colostomy (after 1.5 years just had
it reversed!) and other injuries; in brief the shorter crank arms were
even more important because of the additional damage to my knees. I have
been on a long recovery and physical therapy to restrengthen my legs and
body. The recent change in gearing has made things easier but I have a
long ways to go to get back my strength, speed and power. I do like the
shorter crank arms for my knees but and being able to ride on the drops
but dislike that it takes more physical strength to pedal the same
gearing. Keep in mind the strength thing may have only been getting use
to the added resistance but adding the accident into the mix may not be
a fair comparison to an able body rider, other than I am able to pedal
without my knees feeling like they will lock up at the top of the pedal
stroke as they felt before I changed out the crank arms. oh few more
things that I need to mention; you will need to modify your bike fit by
raising the saddle height, your saddle position may need t move back or
forward, your bar height and stem length may need to be changed or at
least getting used to. I had already shorten up my stem and but have not
raised it which may be my next change as I am now in a very aggressive
forward lean, tough on the lower back, neck and arms which the accident
didn't help.

How tall are you?


6' tall with 33.5" inseam


Since you're 4" shorter and with a 1/2" shorter inseam I don't suppose I'll have any problems.
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