Keeping track of bike measurements

One of the frustrating things I've found is that, over the years, I've
become increasingly picky about even single mm adjustments in seat
height and, to a lesser extent, fore/aft positioning. Stem length I can
get used to within a certain range, but not seat positioning. I used to
list the seat height under the saddle (written on masking tape) but
found the best thing to do is put the various centerline measurements in
my phone. Just create an entry for yourself, and put your bike stuff
(saddle height, setback, seat-to-bar drop and saddle nose to bar) there
and you can then recreate your positioning if you borrow a bike or were
working on your own and forgot where things started.

Since some of my bikes have different pedals & shoes (Speedplay Zero vs
SPD), I've also taken to measuring seat height using the actual shoe
clipped into the pedal. It's very easy to measure to the insole right at
the spindle. Made a bigger difference than I thought.

Hope this helps someone (and likely nothing new to most here)-

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

On Jul 4, 10:43*am, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
wrote:
One of the frustrating things I've found is that, over the years, I've
become increasingly picky about even single mm adjustments in seat
height and, to a lesser extent, fore/aft positioning. Stem length I can
get used to within a certain range, but not seat positioning. I used to
list the seat height under the saddle (written on masking tape) but
found the best thing to do is put the various centerline measurements in
my phone. Just create an entry for yourself, and put your bike stuff
(saddle height, setback, seat-to-bar drop and saddle nose to bar) there
and you can then recreate your positioning if you borrow a bike or were
working on your own and forgot where things started.

Since some of my bikes have different pedals & shoes (Speedplay Zero vs
SPD), I've also taken to measuring seat height using the actual shoe
clipped into the pedal. It's very easy to measure to the insole right at
the spindle. Made a bigger difference than I thought.

Hope this helps someone (and likely nothing new to most here)-

--Mike-- * * Chain Reaction Bicycleswww.ChainReactionBicycles.com

Mike shows his willful ignorance once again by posting something
useful and on-topic in rbr. What a dumbass.

"Ryan Cousineau" wrote in message
...
On Jul 4, 10:43 am, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
wrote:
One of the frustrating things I've found is that, over the years, I've
become increasingly picky about even single mm adjustments in seat
height and, to a lesser extent, fore/aft positioning. Stem length I
can
get used to within a certain range, but not seat positioning. I used
to
list the seat height under the saddle (written on masking tape) but
found the best thing to do is put the various centerline measurements
in
my phone. Just create an entry for yourself, and put your bike stuff
(saddle height, setback, seat-to-bar drop and saddle nose to bar)
there
and you can then recreate your positioning if you borrow a bike or
were
working on your own and forgot where things started.

Since some of my bikes have different pedals & shoes (Speedplay Zero
vs
SPD), I've also taken to measuring seat height using the actual shoe
clipped into the pedal. It's very easy to measure to the insole right
at
the spindle. Made a bigger difference than I thought.

Hope this helps someone (and likely nothing new to most here)-

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycleswww.ChainReactionBicycles.com
====
Mike shows his willful ignorance once again by posting something
useful and on-topic in rbr. What a dumbass.
====

Je suis idiot Americain

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

On Jul 4, 6:43*pm, "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote:
One of the frustrating things I've found is that, over the years, I've
become increasingly picky about even single mm adjustments in seat
height and, to a lesser extent, fore/aft positioning. Stem length I can
get used to within a certain range, but not seat positioning. I used to
list the seat height under the saddle (written on masking tape) but
found the best thing to do is put the various centerline measurements in
my phone. Just create an entry for yourself, and put your bike stuff
(saddle height, setback, seat-to-bar drop and saddle nose to bar) there
and you can then recreate your positioning if you borrow a bike or were
working on your own and forgot where things started.

Since some of my bikes have different pedals & shoes (Speedplay Zero vs
SPD), I've also taken to measuring seat height using the actual shoe
clipped into the pedal. It's very easy to measure to the insole right at
the spindle. Made a bigger difference than I thought.

Hope this helps someone (and likely nothing new to most here)-

--Mike-- * * Chain Reaction Bicycleswww.ChainReactionBicycles.com

You wouldn't be so fussy with shorter cranks. It's taken me a long
time to get rid of a belly so that I can comfortably ride 170mm in a
wind fighting position. I also seem relatively dispassionate about
handlebar position and can ride between a 90mm or a 130mm (probably
140) on that difficult bike. Possible variation in saddle height is
not on for long days, I find that 1/8" either way puts unwelcome
strains on my body. I certainly enjoy my riding more with 165mm
cranks in an almost identical position on another bike. and usually
use this second bike for long rides.

On Jul 4, 1:43*pm, "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote:

One of the frustrating things I've found is that, over the years, I've
become increasingly picky about even single mm adjustments in seat
height and, to a lesser extent, fore/aft positioning. Stem length I can
get used to within a certain range, but not seat positioning. I used to
list the seat height under the saddle (written on masking tape) but
found the best thing to do is put the various centerline measurements in
my phone. Just create an entry for yourself, and put your bike stuff
(saddle height, setback, seat-to-bar drop and saddle nose to bar) there
and you can then recreate your positioning if you borrow a bike or were
working on your own and forgot where things started.

Since some of my bikes have different pedals & shoes (Speedplay Zero vs
SPD), I've also taken to measuring seat height using the actual shoe
clipped into the pedal. It's very easy to measure to the insole right at
the spindle. Made a bigger difference than I thought.

Hope this helps someone (and likely nothing new to most here)-

Delving into my deeper-than-Felix's bag of tricks, I might suggest a
story string. In a nutshell, it's a length of string that is either
knotted or otherwise marked at the appropriate lengths that you want
to replicate. It weighs nothing, takes up no space, and you don't
need a ruler/tape measure nor glasses to use it.

The string also has other uses should you become stranded, injured and/
or need to garrote someone for stranding or injuring you.

R
RBR's answer to MacGyver

On Jul 4, 7:43*pm, "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote:
One of the frustrating things I've found is that, over the years, I've
become increasingly picky about even single mm adjustments in seat
height and, to a lesser extent, fore/aft positioning. Stem length I can
get used to within a certain range, but not seat positioning. I used to
list the seat height under the saddle (written on masking tape) but
found the best thing to do is put the various centerline measurements in
my phone. Just create an entry for yourself, and put your bike stuff
(saddle height, setback, seat-to-bar drop and saddle nose to bar) there
and you can then recreate your positioning if you borrow a bike or were
working on your own and forgot where things started.

Since some of my bikes have different pedals & shoes (Speedplay Zero vs
SPD), I've also taken to measuring seat height using the actual shoe
clipped into the pedal. It's very easy to measure to the insole right at
the spindle. Made a bigger difference than I thought.

Hope this helps someone (and likely nothing new to most here)-

--Mike-- * * Chain Reaction Bicycleswww.ChainReactionBicycles.com

I think the random method is useful to get out of ruts and
preconceived ideas. When I moved, I had to loosen my handlebars and
when I retightened them, I didn't do it carefully and my brake hoods
ended up higher than I was used to. After riding like that for a
couple of hundred km's, I realized I was actually more comfortable.

However, saddle height seems to be different, mine has been lower than
recommended for years, and it seems to have to stay within a mm to
avoid problems.

I asked the guy at FitWerx why saddle fore/aft was that important,
that is, don't you just end up sitting where you are more efficient. I
didn't get a totally satisfactory answer, because it's not clear that
one exists.

You'll know you're getting too picky when you raise your saddle when
you wear tights over shorts.

-ilan

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Jul 4, 1:43 pm, "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote:

One of the frustrating things I've found is that, over the years, I've
become increasingly picky about even single mm adjustments in seat
height and, to a lesser extent, fore/aft positioning. Stem length I
can
get used to within a certain range, but not seat positioning. I used
to
list the seat height under the saddle (written on masking tape) but
found the best thing to do is put the various centerline measurements
in
my phone. Just create an entry for yourself, and put your bike stuff
(saddle height, setback, seat-to-bar drop and saddle nose to bar)
there
and you can then recreate your positioning if you borrow a bike or
were
working on your own and forgot where things started.

Since some of my bikes have different pedals & shoes (Speedplay Zero
vs
SPD), I've also taken to measuring seat height using the actual shoe
clipped into the pedal. It's very easy to measure to the insole right
at
the spindle. Made a bigger difference than I thought.

Hope this helps someone (and likely nothing new to most here)-
======
Delving into my deeper-than-Felix's bag of tricks, I might suggest a
story string. In a nutshell, it's a length of string that is either
knotted or otherwise marked at the appropriate lengths that you want
to replicate. It weighs nothing, takes up no space, and you don't
need a ruler/tape measure nor glasses to use it.

The string also has other uses should you become stranded, injured and/
or need to garrote someone for stranding or injuring you.

R
RBR's answer to MacGyver
=======

Interestingly enough, I've done exactly that in the past- brought a
piece of string with me with knots to indicate dimensions. Are you
suggesting other uses should I come into contact with rbr inhabitants in
the real world? Or is it a virtual string? Has Greg LeMond considered
the implications of string theory? Quantum Leap was all about righting
what went wrong, using string theory to send someone back in time, but
only within that person's lifetime. No problem with that limitation; as
far as I know, Greg doesn't claim any virtual wins before he was born.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

On Jul 4, 10:07*pm, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

...
On Jul 4, 1:43 pm, "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote:









One of the frustrating things I've found is that, over the years, I've
become increasingly picky about even single mm adjustments in seat
height and, to a lesser extent, fore/aft positioning. Stem length I
can
get used to within a certain range, but not seat positioning. I used
to
list the seat height under the saddle (written on masking tape) but
found the best thing to do is put the various centerline measurements
in
my phone. Just create an entry for yourself, and put your bike stuff
(saddle height, setback, seat-to-bar drop and saddle nose to bar)
there
and you can then recreate your positioning if you borrow a bike or
were
working on your own and forgot where things started.

Since some of my bikes have different pedals & shoes (Speedplay Zero
vs
SPD), I've also taken to measuring seat height using the actual shoe
clipped into the pedal. It's very easy to measure to the insole right
at
the spindle. Made a bigger difference than I thought.

Hope this helps someone (and likely nothing new to most here)-

======
Delving into my deeper-than-Felix's bag of tricks, I might suggest a
story string. *In a nutshell, it's a length of string that is either
knotted or otherwise marked at the appropriate lengths that you want
to replicate. *It weighs nothing, takes up no space, and you don't
need a ruler/tape measure nor glasses to use it.

The string also has other uses should you become stranded, injured and/
or need to garrote someone for stranding or injuring you.

R
RBR's answer to MacGyver
=======

Interestingly enough, I've done exactly that in the past- brought a
piece of string with me with knots to indicate dimensions.

OK...why did you take a step backwards to something that relies on
technology, batteries, reading ability and a measuring device?

Are you
suggesting other uses should I come into contact with rbr inhabitants in
the real world? Or is it a virtual string? Has Greg LeMond considered
the implications of string theory? Quantum Leap was all about righting
what went wrong, using string theory to send someone back in time, but
only within that person's lifetime. No problem with that limitation; as
far as I know, Greg doesn't claim any virtual wins before he was born.

Damn it, Jim! I'm a DOCTOR, not a psycho-cyclo-psychologist!

R