Assembly of Di2

I guess I didn't buy Molybdenum Disulfate for to mix in he wax. Since I wrote that it has been bothering me since in my memory that stuff is black. I finally found my jar and it is Polytetraflouroenthelene. This is a white powder. It is available through Amazon but unfortunately most of it in this extremely fine grade comes from China and they cannot ship chemicals into California though I think that it is OK for most of the rest of the US.

As the wax slowly wears off, you can see the fine white powder in the nooks and crannies of the chain.

I have ordered an ultrasonic parts cleaner from a local place. They are pretty cheap and you can use any number of solutions to clean with so I'll be experimenting for the best. It also warms the fluids so I tend to want to stay with soap solutions rather than flammable hydrocarbons.

Tom Kunich writes:

I guess I didn't buy Molybdenum Disulfate for to mix in he wax. Since
I wrote that it has been bothering me since in my memory that stuff is
black. I finally found my jar and it is Polytetraflouroenthelene. This

The most famous brand of PTFE is "Teflon".

is a white powder. It is available through Amazon but unfortunately
most of it in this extremely fine grade comes from China and they
cannot ship chemicals into California though I think that it is OK for
most of the rest of the US.

As the wax slowly wears off, you can see the fine white powder in the
nooks and crannies of the chain.

I have ordered an ultrasonic parts cleaner from a local place. They
are pretty cheap and you can use any number of solutions to clean with
so I'll be experimenting for the best. It also warms the fluids so I
tend to want to stay with soap solutions rather than flammable
hydrocarbons.

--

On Wednesday, February 19, 2020 at 12:04:37 PM UTC-8, Radey Shouman wrote:
Tom Kunich writes:

I guess I didn't buy Molybdenum Disulfate for to mix in he wax. Since
I wrote that it has been bothering me since in my memory that stuff is
black. I finally found my jar and it is Polytetraflouroenthelene. This

The most famous brand of PTFE is "Teflon".

is a white powder. It is available through Amazon but unfortunately
most of it in this extremely fine grade comes from China and they
cannot ship chemicals into California though I think that it is OK for
most of the rest of the US.

As the wax slowly wears off, you can see the fine white powder in the
nooks and crannies of the chain.

I have ordered an ultrasonic parts cleaner from a local place. They
are pretty cheap and you can use any number of solutions to clean with
so I'll be experimenting for the best. It also warms the fluids so I
tend to want to stay with soap solutions rather than flammable
hydrocarbons.

--

Thanks, between the concussion and the medicine I have to take for that I have no short term memory to speak of. Teflon - That's the stuff. But that is a brand name so they have to use its chemical designation.

On Tuesday, February 18, 2020 at 1:37:55 AM UTC+1, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:43:42 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
It occurs to me that I should install the hydraulic brakes before I attach the electronic wiring. What do you think?

After watching the youtube video's of how to bleed the brakes I gave it a try and it was so easy that you needn't worry. If you're anything of a mechanic you can do it in a snap. The first one I tried was the rear brake. I tilted the front of the bike up a little in the stand. I was worried that the mineral oil that Shimano uses as a hydraulic medium could get bubbles caught in it but it bled in a snap and without any problems. The front was even easier. There was a difference in the lever pull but there is an adjustment just below the lever bleed opening that you can use after you finish the bleeding to adjust reach.

As I told you before, I had bought the external battery carrier and it was wrong. Initially I had bought the second one at the same time because I had forgotten I had bought the first. Both were different versions and both were wrong.

Then I found a list of components that would match. This is a rather large list of interchangeable parts. But there are TWO parts that do not have any interchangeability - the external battery carrier and the internal battery. There are, I think, five versions of the external battery carrier but the interior battery is the same on all of them. I think (my list may not be complete)

When I tried either of the two battery carriers I had mounted and everything connected NOTHING would happen when I tried to turn the system on. It was a dead as a doornail. So dead that I was sure that there was something wrong.

Today I got the correct battery carrier in. All three of them look absolutely identical.

I just hooked up the correct one and it not only lit off the controller but the entire system worked instantly. It has the latest program in it as well and does the automatic front derailleur correction As you're shifting the rear up and down. Playing around with it I could also enter the "fine adjustment" mode where you can do fine adjustments on the rear derailleur.

I have an Ultegra chain to go with it so I have to get one of those little crock pots for dipping stuff into melted marshmallows, clean the chain very carefully and then melt the wax and molybdenum disulfate lubricate together and completely wax the chain. You have to leave the chain in this stuff until the chain is completely heated through and the wax and moly have penetrated the links. You can see this by the fact that little bubbles come off of the chain. When they stop you're generally good but I leave it in another 20 minutes. When you take the chain out do it with tongs or pliers because it is just slightly below boiling.

I used some old wax to do the chain on my Lemond and it has been totally quiet the last 150 miles and shifts beautifully. The problem is that when you put used chains into it without completely cleaning them there's always a little dirt left behind and over the years this stuff has gotten rather filthy. So I have new wax and new moly for the Redline and the soon to be assembled Trek Emonda.

I can tell you that unlike one very good mechanic told me, ALL of the software is upgradeable. One thing he did mention that I took to heart is to use all Shimano parts. So the only thing I am presently missing is the stem controller unit for the Trek (the shipper made a mistake and swapped labels on two shipments and that is taking a lot longer than it should to straighten away.) and the internal wires for the Trek. The Trek will still need a set of Shimano Wheels since all of mine except the disk set are for Campy. They aren't due until late next month - straight pull spokes on 50 mm deep carbon rims. This time I will start them with Campy carbon brake shoes. Those are the way to go now that I've used a set on the front and can tell the difference between them and the blue or basalt shoes.

I was sure that I had a bearing puller for the Trek but I can't find it anywhere. But of course my whole life is misplacing things these days. I'm blaming it on the medicine but the other old guys I ride with are doing the same thing. But that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

n any case IF you have the correct components or their interchangeable matches, the system fires right up. The only think I have figured out how to do is turn it off. I thought that you just pushed the stem button but that doesn't seem to stop anything so I just unplugged the battery.

I was getting my Aeroad ready for coming season last night and put the bike on the stand to install a new chain, cassette and tires. I fiddled around with the shifting moving the chain to the largest cog and at a certain position the FD moved to the small chainring as it is programmed and after that shift the FD wouldn't shift anymore. I could still shift with the RD. The last time I charged the battery was almost a year ago before last season. The LED for the battery check is hard to see because the control unit is hidden in the stem of the Aeroad but I assumed the battery was empty to the point the FD stops shifting. Hooked it up to my computer to charge the battery, updated the firmware of the shifters, FD and RD and set the model of the new cassette (14-28) so my Garmin will show the right gears. All good now.

Lou

On Wednesday, February 19, 2020 at 2:43:18 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 18, 2020 at 1:37:55 AM UTC+1, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:43:42 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
It occurs to me that I should install the hydraulic brakes before I attach the electronic wiring. What do you think?

After watching the youtube video's of how to bleed the brakes I gave it a try and it was so easy that you needn't worry. If you're anything of a mechanic you can do it in a snap. The first one I tried was the rear brake. I tilted the front of the bike up a little in the stand. I was worried that the mineral oil that Shimano uses as a hydraulic medium could get bubbles caught in it but it bled in a snap and without any problems. The front was even easier. There was a difference in the lever pull but there is an adjustment just below the lever bleed opening that you can use after you finish the bleeding to adjust reach.

As I told you before, I had bought the external battery carrier and it was wrong. Initially I had bought the second one at the same time because I had forgotten I had bought the first. Both were different versions and both were wrong.

Then I found a list of components that would match. This is a rather large list of interchangeable parts. But there are TWO parts that do not have any interchangeability - the external battery carrier and the internal battery. There are, I think, five versions of the external battery carrier but the interior battery is the same on all of them. I think (my list may not be complete)

When I tried either of the two battery carriers I had mounted and everything connected NOTHING would happen when I tried to turn the system on. It was a dead as a doornail. So dead that I was sure that there was something wrong.

Today I got the correct battery carrier in. All three of them look absolutely identical.

I just hooked up the correct one and it not only lit off the controller but the entire system worked instantly. It has the latest program in it as well and does the automatic front derailleur correction As you're shifting the rear up and down. Playing around with it I could also enter the "fine adjustment" mode where you can do fine adjustments on the rear derailleur.

I have an Ultegra chain to go with it so I have to get one of those little crock pots for dipping stuff into melted marshmallows, clean the chain very carefully and then melt the wax and molybdenum disulfate lubricate together and completely wax the chain. You have to leave the chain in this stuff until the chain is completely heated through and the wax and moly have penetrated the links. You can see this by the fact that little bubbles come off of the chain. When they stop you're generally good but I leave it in another 20 minutes. When you take the chain out do it with tongs or pliers because it is just slightly below boiling.

I used some old wax to do the chain on my Lemond and it has been totally quiet the last 150 miles and shifts beautifully. The problem is that when you put used chains into it without completely cleaning them there's always a little dirt left behind and over the years this stuff has gotten rather filthy. So I have new wax and new moly for the Redline and the soon to be assembled Trek Emonda.

I can tell you that unlike one very good mechanic told me, ALL of the software is upgradeable. One thing he did mention that I took to heart is to use all Shimano parts. So the only thing I am presently missing is the stem controller unit for the Trek (the shipper made a mistake and swapped labels on two shipments and that is taking a lot longer than it should to straighten away.) and the internal wires for the Trek. The Trek will still need a set of Shimano Wheels since all of mine except the disk set are for Campy.. They aren't due until late next month - straight pull spokes on 50 mm deep carbon rims. This time I will start them with Campy carbon brake shoes. Those are the way to go now that I've used a set on the front and can tell the difference between them and the blue or basalt shoes.

I was sure that I had a bearing puller for the Trek but I can't find it anywhere. But of course my whole life is misplacing things these days. I'm blaming it on the medicine but the other old guys I ride with are doing the same thing. But that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

n any case IF you have the correct components or their interchangeable matches, the system fires right up. The only think I have figured out how to do is turn it off. I thought that you just pushed the stem button but that doesn't seem to stop anything so I just unplugged the battery.

I was getting my Aeroad ready for coming season last night and put the bike on the stand to install a new chain, cassette and tires. I fiddled around with the shifting moving the chain to the largest cog and at a certain position the FD moved to the small chainring as it is programmed and after that shift the FD wouldn't shift anymore. I could still shift with the RD. The last time I charged the battery was almost a year ago before last season. The LED for the battery check is hard to see because the control unit is hidden in the stem of the Aeroad but I assumed the battery was empty to the point the FD stops shifting. Hooked it up to my computer to charge the battery, updated the firmware of the shifters, FD and RD and set the model of the new cassette (14-28) so my Garmin will show the right gears. All good now.

Lou

Thanks for that bit of information. After I get both bikes operating I imagine that I'll go through the learning process and try to un-Campagnolo myself.

Yesterday on the ride somehow the damn Campy 10 speed jumped off of the 11 and stuck outside of it. It has nothing to do with the derailleur stop. And of course it started the usual, not shifting on gear at a time. You have to shift two and then back down one. So I have to adjust it yet again. It's enough to **** off the Pope. At least this was the chain that I waxed so I didn't get dirty hands.

On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:43:42 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
It occurs to me that I should install the hydraulic brakes before I attach the electronic wiring. What do you think?

I had the local top shop remove the stuck screw on the brake cable exit bracket. It turns out that aluminum piece is directly in line for the dripping sweat from a climber. The sweat from the previous owner caused corrosion which stuck the stainless screw in. I found a new one and the screw at the local Trek store and installed them with a good layer of Campy Grease coating everything. But I also ordered some Torx head replacement screws so that is highly unlikely to be unable to be removed again.

The wheels came in an Trek also makes a plastic rim liner for tubeless tires. You have to buy the correct size for your wheel and Trek showing a bit of Nationalism, calls a 700c wheels a 29" wheel. But they do have the proper size for most rims. Though Trek wheels probably are made for disk rims these days which are a bit wider than others. Trick for installation - ALWAYS start the rim strip by installing the tubeless valve tightly in place. If you do not and the valve hole isn't perfectly aligned it is hell to realign (experience of the Trek mechanic).

While I'm using 55 mm deep aero rims I have come to the conclusion that aluminum rims are probably better overall. I put a set of Campy Sciroccos on one of my bikes and there appears to be absolutely no difference in top speed or acceleration though the wheelsets are 500 grams different in weight. And aluminum rims have much better braking.

Installing the brake cable through the top tube I pushed it in from the front plug until I felt it stop. Looked inside with a bright miniature flashlight that others proclaim useless, hooked a spoke J-bend under the inner wire and slowly pulled the cable back until I saw the end. I then lifted it to the exit hole, pushed it a little and it was outside of the top tube. I installed the new and well greased plug into the hole, tightened the greased mounting screw and finished wiring and adjusting the Direct Mount brake. You can tell a difference in the braking power just at the lever. There is far less flex in the mechanisms.

The only thing that I am presently short is the wires for the Di2 and I am having a local shop who has a lot of experience with Di2 put those in because I don't want to pay $26 apiece for 6 wires while this guy has a quantity dealer discount. And he will pull the bottom bracket and re-install it and troubleshoot why the crank was touching the off-side chain stay.

There are also other things such as I have the magnet to trigger the Trek installed cadence counter and I'd like to also use it to measure speed rather than a front wheel mess.

Does anyone know if a Garmin 810 has an altimeter in it? I can't find the specs on the Internet.

The one question I have is whether I should add the Bluetooth transceiver to the Di2. Is there any good reason for it? Can I use it to upgrade or setup the software in the Di2? I'd rather do that than drag the bike into the house to use that internal battery charger/Di2 interface to do all of that.

On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 6:36:58 PM UTC+1, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:43:42 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
It occurs to me that I should install the hydraulic brakes before I attach the electronic wiring. What do you think?

I had the local top shop remove the stuck screw on the brake cable exit bracket. It turns out that aluminum piece is directly in line for the dripping sweat from a climber. The sweat from the previous owner caused corrosion which stuck the stainless screw in. I found a new one and the screw at the local Trek store and installed them with a good layer of Campy Grease coating everything. But I also ordered some Torx head replacement screws so that is highly unlikely to be unable to be removed again.

The wheels came in an Trek also makes a plastic rim liner for tubeless tires. You have to buy the correct size for your wheel and Trek showing a bit of Nationalism, calls a 700c wheels a 29" wheel. But they do have the proper size for most rims. Though Trek wheels probably are made for disk rims these days which are a bit wider than others. Trick for installation - ALWAYS start the rim strip by installing the tubeless valve tightly in place. If you do not and the valve hole isn't perfectly aligned it is hell to realign (experience of the Trek mechanic).

While I'm using 55 mm deep aero rims I have come to the conclusion that aluminum rims are probably better overall. I put a set of Campy Sciroccos on one of my bikes and there appears to be absolutely no difference in top speed or acceleration though the wheelsets are 500 grams different in weight. And aluminum rims have much better braking.

Installing the brake cable through the top tube I pushed it in from the front plug until I felt it stop. Looked inside with a bright miniature flashlight that others proclaim useless, hooked a spoke J-bend under the inner wire and slowly pulled the cable back until I saw the end. I then lifted it to the exit hole, pushed it a little and it was outside of the top tube. I installed the new and well greased plug into the hole, tightened the greased mounting screw and finished wiring and adjusting the Direct Mount brake. You can tell a difference in the braking power just at the lever. There is far less flex in the mechanisms.

The only thing that I am presently short is the wires for the Di2 and I am having a local shop who has a lot of experience with Di2 put those in because I don't want to pay $26 apiece for 6 wires while this guy has a quantity dealer discount. And he will pull the bottom bracket and re-install it and troubleshoot why the crank was touching the off-side chain stay.

There are also other things such as I have the magnet to trigger the Trek installed cadence counter and I'd like to also use it to measure speed rather than a front wheel mess.

Does anyone know if a Garmin 810 has an altimeter in it? I can't find the specs on the Internet.

Yes it has


The one question I have is whether I should add the Bluetooth transceiver to the Di2. Is there any good reason for it? Can I use it to upgrade or setup the software in the Di2? I'd rather do that than drag the bike into the house to use that internal battery charger/Di2 interface to do all of that..


You mean this one:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Sh...s-Unit-p61898/

I don't use it for update the software. I did it once and the bluetooth connection crashed and the whole system was ****ed up. I spit on bluetooth and wifi connections. The wireless unit enables me to see my gears on my Garmin, the battery level and I can swipe through my data pages with the little hidden buttons of my shifters so I don't have to take my hand of the hoods. That is reason enough for me. For updating I rely on on a cabled PC connection and I drag my bike to my control center:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dAWABDgr27tYd6XHA

Lou

On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 10:11:09 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 6:36:58 PM UTC+1, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:43:42 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
It occurs to me that I should install the hydraulic brakes before I attach the electronic wiring. What do you think?

I had the local top shop remove the stuck screw on the brake cable exit bracket. It turns out that aluminum piece is directly in line for the dripping sweat from a climber. The sweat from the previous owner caused corrosion which stuck the stainless screw in. I found a new one and the screw at the local Trek store and installed them with a good layer of Campy Grease coating everything. But I also ordered some Torx head replacement screws so that is highly unlikely to be unable to be removed again.

The wheels came in an Trek also makes a plastic rim liner for tubeless tires. You have to buy the correct size for your wheel and Trek showing a bit of Nationalism, calls a 700c wheels a 29" wheel. But they do have the proper size for most rims. Though Trek wheels probably are made for disk rims these days which are a bit wider than others. Trick for installation - ALWAYS start the rim strip by installing the tubeless valve tightly in place. If you do not and the valve hole isn't perfectly aligned it is hell to realign (experience of the Trek mechanic).

While I'm using 55 mm deep aero rims I have come to the conclusion that aluminum rims are probably better overall. I put a set of Campy Sciroccos on one of my bikes and there appears to be absolutely no difference in top speed or acceleration though the wheelsets are 500 grams different in weight. And aluminum rims have much better braking.

Installing the brake cable through the top tube I pushed it in from the front plug until I felt it stop. Looked inside with a bright miniature flashlight that others proclaim useless, hooked a spoke J-bend under the inner wire and slowly pulled the cable back until I saw the end. I then lifted it to the exit hole, pushed it a little and it was outside of the top tube. I installed the new and well greased plug into the hole, tightened the greased mounting screw and finished wiring and adjusting the Direct Mount brake.. You can tell a difference in the braking power just at the lever. There is far less flex in the mechanisms.

The only thing that I am presently short is the wires for the Di2 and I am having a local shop who has a lot of experience with Di2 put those in because I don't want to pay $26 apiece for 6 wires while this guy has a quantity dealer discount. And he will pull the bottom bracket and re-install it and troubleshoot why the crank was touching the off-side chain stay.

There are also other things such as I have the magnet to trigger the Trek installed cadence counter and I'd like to also use it to measure speed rather than a front wheel mess.

Does anyone know if a Garmin 810 has an altimeter in it? I can't find the specs on the Internet.

Yes it has


The one question I have is whether I should add the Bluetooth transceiver to the Di2. Is there any good reason for it? Can I use it to upgrade or setup the software in the Di2? I'd rather do that than drag the bike into the house to use that internal battery charger/Di2 interface to do all of that.


You mean this one:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Sh...s-Unit-p61898/

I don't use it for update the software. I did it once and the bluetooth connection crashed and the whole system was ****ed up. I spit on bluetooth and wifi connections. The wireless unit enables me to see my gears on my Garmin, the battery level and I can swipe through my data pages with the little hidden buttons of my shifters so I don't have to take my hand of the hoods. That is reason enough for me. For updating I rely on on a cabled PC connection and I drag my bike to my control center:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dAWABDgr27tYd6XHA

Lou

Yee Gods are you neat. I have an HP EliteDesk desktop computer that is fast fast fast so I won't change that to make a cleaner desktop.

That Bluetooth interface you showed me is about 2.3's the price of the one's on eBay so too bad they don't send them to the USA.

On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 10:11:09 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 6:36:58 PM UTC+1, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:43:42 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
It occurs to me that I should install the hydraulic brakes before I attach the electronic wiring. What do you think?

I had the local top shop remove the stuck screw on the brake cable exit bracket. It turns out that aluminum piece is directly in line for the dripping sweat from a climber. The sweat from the previous owner caused corrosion which stuck the stainless screw in. I found a new one and the screw at the local Trek store and installed them with a good layer of Campy Grease coating everything. But I also ordered some Torx head replacement screws so that is highly unlikely to be unable to be removed again.

The wheels came in an Trek also makes a plastic rim liner for tubeless tires. You have to buy the correct size for your wheel and Trek showing a bit of Nationalism, calls a 700c wheels a 29" wheel. But they do have the proper size for most rims. Though Trek wheels probably are made for disk rims these days which are a bit wider than others. Trick for installation - ALWAYS start the rim strip by installing the tubeless valve tightly in place. If you do not and the valve hole isn't perfectly aligned it is hell to realign (experience of the Trek mechanic).

While I'm using 55 mm deep aero rims I have come to the conclusion that aluminum rims are probably better overall. I put a set of Campy Sciroccos on one of my bikes and there appears to be absolutely no difference in top speed or acceleration though the wheelsets are 500 grams different in weight. And aluminum rims have much better braking.

Installing the brake cable through the top tube I pushed it in from the front plug until I felt it stop. Looked inside with a bright miniature flashlight that others proclaim useless, hooked a spoke J-bend under the inner wire and slowly pulled the cable back until I saw the end. I then lifted it to the exit hole, pushed it a little and it was outside of the top tube. I installed the new and well greased plug into the hole, tightened the greased mounting screw and finished wiring and adjusting the Direct Mount brake.. You can tell a difference in the braking power just at the lever. There is far less flex in the mechanisms.

The only thing that I am presently short is the wires for the Di2 and I am having a local shop who has a lot of experience with Di2 put those in because I don't want to pay $26 apiece for 6 wires while this guy has a quantity dealer discount. And he will pull the bottom bracket and re-install it and troubleshoot why the crank was touching the off-side chain stay.

There are also other things such as I have the magnet to trigger the Trek installed cadence counter and I'd like to also use it to measure speed rather than a front wheel mess.

Does anyone know if a Garmin 810 has an altimeter in it? I can't find the specs on the Internet.

Yes it has


The one question I have is whether I should add the Bluetooth transceiver to the Di2. Is there any good reason for it? Can I use it to upgrade or setup the software in the Di2? I'd rather do that than drag the bike into the house to use that internal battery charger/Di2 interface to do all of that.


You mean this one:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Sh...s-Unit-p61898/

I don't use it for update the software. I did it once and the bluetooth connection crashed and the whole system was ****ed up. I spit on bluetooth and wifi connections. The wireless unit enables me to see my gears on my Garmin, the battery level and I can swipe through my data pages with the little hidden buttons of my shifters so I don't have to take my hand of the hoods. That is reason enough for me. For updating I rely on on a cabled PC connection and I drag my bike to my control center:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dAWABDgr27tYd6XHA

Pffff. My bicycle control center: https://i.redd.it/jmv1signld731.jpg "Main B bus undervolt. Shifting lost. Huston, we have a problem. Initiate Uber assist!" Programming a bike is kind of ridiculous.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 2:07:29 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 8:52:26 PM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 10:11:09 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 6:36:58 PM UTC+1, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:43:42 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
It occurs to me that I should install the hydraulic brakes before I attach the electronic wiring. What do you think?

I had the local top shop remove the stuck screw on the brake cable exit bracket. It turns out that aluminum piece is directly in line for the dripping sweat from a climber. The sweat from the previous owner caused corrosion which stuck the stainless screw in. I found a new one and the screw at the local Trek store and installed them with a good layer of Campy Grease coating everything. But I also ordered some Torx head replacement screws so that is highly unlikely to be unable to be removed again.

The wheels came in an Trek also makes a plastic rim liner for tubeless tires. You have to buy the correct size for your wheel and Trek showing a bit of Nationalism, calls a 700c wheels a 29" wheel. But they do have the proper size for most rims. Though Trek wheels probably are made for disk rims these days which are a bit wider than others. Trick for installation - ALWAYS start the rim strip by installing the tubeless valve tightly in place. If you do not and the valve hole isn't perfectly aligned it is hell to realign (experience of the Trek mechanic).

While I'm using 55 mm deep aero rims I have come to the conclusion that aluminum rims are probably better overall. I put a set of Campy Sciroccos on one of my bikes and there appears to be absolutely no difference in top speed or acceleration though the wheelsets are 500 grams different in weight. And aluminum rims have much better braking.

Installing the brake cable through the top tube I pushed it in from the front plug until I felt it stop. Looked inside with a bright miniature flashlight that others proclaim useless, hooked a spoke J-bend under the inner wire and slowly pulled the cable back until I saw the end. I then lifted it to the exit hole, pushed it a little and it was outside of the top tube. I installed the new and well greased plug into the hole, tightened the greased mounting screw and finished wiring and adjusting the Direct Mount brake. You can tell a difference in the braking power just at the lever. There is far less flex in the mechanisms.

The only thing that I am presently short is the wires for the Di2 and I am having a local shop who has a lot of experience with Di2 put those in because I don't want to pay $26 apiece for 6 wires while this guy has a quantity dealer discount. And he will pull the bottom bracket and re-install it and troubleshoot why the crank was touching the off-side chain stay.

There are also other things such as I have the magnet to trigger the Trek installed cadence counter and I'd like to also use it to measure speed rather than a front wheel mess.

Does anyone know if a Garmin 810 has an altimeter in it? I can't find the specs on the Internet.

Yes it has


The one question I have is whether I should add the Bluetooth transceiver to the Di2. Is there any good reason for it? Can I use it to upgrade or setup the software in the Di2? I'd rather do that than drag the bike into the house to use that internal battery charger/Di2 interface to do all of that.


You mean this one:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Sh...s-Unit-p61898/

I don't use it for update the software. I did it once and the bluetooth connection crashed and the whole system was ****ed up. I spit on bluetooth and wifi connections. The wireless unit enables me to see my gears on my Garmin, the battery level and I can swipe through my data pages with the little hidden buttons of my shifters so I don't have to take my hand of the hoods. That is reason enough for me. For updating I rely on on a cabled PC connection and I drag my bike to my control center:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dAWABDgr27tYd6XHA

Pffff. My bicycle control center: https://i.redd.it/jmv1signld731.jpg "Main B bus undervolt. Shifting lost. Huston, we have a problem. Initiate Uber assist!" Programming a bike is kind of ridiculous.

-- Jay Beattie.

;-) I can't top that.

Lou

I can gag.