135mm Hub In 130mm Frame?

Old MTB.

Foolishly assumed the rear drops were 135mm.

Built the wheel.

Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide.


Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
the rear stays...

Or should I bite the bullet, order another hub, and re-lace?
--
PeteCresswell

On 6 Dic, 18:36, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
the rear stays...

Spread it out wider.

Sergio
Pisa

On Dec 6, 11:36*am, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Old MTB.

Foolishly assumed the rear drops were 135mm.

Built the wheel.

Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide.

Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
the rear stays...

Respace the rear, align the dropouts with a bigass wrench or have your
shop do it with the Park tool.


Or should I bite the bullet, order another hub, and re-lace?

You build mtb wheels? [theatrical shock face] Heck--I just rebuilt
B.'s double boinger this afternoon with a set of Deore/WTB/DT wheels I
got for $90 at Pricepoint. The rear DS was at least 100 kgf according
to my ear and the heads were seated perfectly in the flange. Didn't
even touch them up. Wouldda cost double for parts.

*g*

Now if ya want a good 135 spaced 622mm wheel--that's when building is
the only option.
--

Per Mark J.:
Note particularly Sheldon's paragraph about merely flexing, or
"springing" the frame, as he puts it. In other words, just flex the
frame a bit and get that wheel in - assuming a steel frame. It's worked
great for me for several years now on my rain bike.

I can almost "spring" it in - in a nice dry, well-lit garage....
but not quite. Probably not an option in mud/rain/whatever.

But something in Sheldon's page tripped me: "Use a ruler to
measure the distance from the string to the side of the seat tube
where they cross. Take this measurement on both sides, IT SHOULD
BE THE SAME ON EACH SIDE."

I'm getting 39mm on the drive side and 31.5mm on the other side.

Oops....

I've been riding this thing on-and-off since I bought it new in
1983. Can't recall any particularly bad crashes but it's had
it's share of knocks. Also I weigh 200+ and a spinner I am
definitely not.

Seems like three possibilities for the measurement mismatch:

1) Bad measuring

2) Bent frame from whatever

3) It's designed that way

Can I safely eliminate #3?

If so, it seems like triple-check the measurements, then correct
it at the same time as increasing the spacing to 135 ... and then
probably taking it to a shop for the drops tb checked/made
parallel.

--
PeteCresswell

Per landotter:
You build mtb wheels? [theatrical shock face] Heck--I just rebuilt
B.'s double boinger this afternoon with a set of Deore/WTB/DT wheels I
got for $90 at Pricepoint. The rear DS was at least 100 kgf according
to my ear and the heads were seated perfectly in the flange. Didn't
even touch them up. Wouldda cost double for parts.

Actually, right after toasting the freewheel, I bought a used
wheel for $15. Works OK, but it's only 30 holes, drilled for
Presta, and getting a tire on/off it is a major hassle - as in 3
tire irons and beau coups bad language. My guess is that it's a
26" road wheel.

So I blew another $30 on a Shimano Deore hub and laced it up to
the original Araya rims - which make tire changing very close to
a bare-hands operation.

$90 per *set*.... I like it.
--
PeteCresswell

On Dec 6, 4:04*pm, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per landotter:

You build mtb wheels? [theatrical shock face] Heck--I just rebuilt
B.'s double boinger this afternoon with a set of Deore/WTB/DT wheels I
got for $90 at Pricepoint. The rear DS was at least 100 kgf according
to my ear and the heads were seated perfectly in the flange. Didn't
even touch them up. Wouldda cost double for parts.

Actually, right after toasting the freewheel, I bought a used
wheel for $15. *Works OK, but it's only 30 holes, drilled for
Presta, and getting a tire on/off it is a major hassle - as in 3
tire irons and beau coups bad language. *My guess is that it's a
26" road wheel.

So I blew another $30 on a Shimano Deore hub and laced it up to
the original Araya rims - which make tire changing very close to
a bare-hands operation.

Did your Deore hub need adjustment? Mine surprised me by coming with a
load of grease and properly adjusted cones this time.


$90 per *set*.... * I like it. * *

Crazy isn't it? You can pay twice as much and get gimpier hubs than a
Deore.

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/180...-Black-28H.htm

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Old MTB.

Foolishly assumed the rear drops were 135mm.

Built the wheel.

Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide.


Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
the rear stays...

Or should I bite the bullet, order another hub, and re-lace?

Steel bike? Change the frame to 135.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote
Old MTB.

Foolishly assumed the rear drops were 135mm.

Built the wheel.

Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide.

Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
the rear stays...

Or should I bite the bullet, order another hub, and re-lace?

It is possible to reduce a 135 hub by fitting thinner spacers. It's a couple
of years ago now but I think I found half a mm on the drive side and 2 or
2.5mm on the non-drive side.

DavidR wrote:
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote
Old MTB.

Foolishly assumed the rear drops were 135mm.

Built the wheel.

Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide.

Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
the rear stays...

Or should I bite the bullet, order another hub, and re-lace?

It is possible to reduce a 135 hub by fitting thinner spacers. It's a couple
of years ago now but I think I found half a mm on the drive side and 2 or
2.5mm on the non-drive side.


If it's a Shimano, most models have a 5mm spacer on the
left. Remove that, adjust hub, trim axle, recenter rim and
you're 130mm.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

"AMuzi" wrote in
DavidR wrote:
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote
Old MTB.

Foolishly assumed the rear drops were 135mm.

Built the wheel.

Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide.

Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
the rear stays...

Or should I bite the bullet, order another hub, and re-lace?

It is possible to reduce a 135 hub by fitting thinner spacers. It's a
couple of years ago now but I think I found half a mm on the drive side
and 2 or 2.5mm on the non-drive side.

If it's a Shimano, most models have a 5mm spacer on the left. Remove that,
adjust hub, trim axle, recenter rim and you're 130mm.

I'm sure I found some flaw with that otherwise I would had done it. Maybe it
had something to do with keeping the outer dust seal.